scorpio_ny

There is an acrylic clear case for the 800XL that can be ordered if one wants to go that route: https://www.plexilaser.de/shop/Acrylgehaeuse-fuer-ATARI-800XL-Teilesatz

Hi @R.Cade, Did you try Best Electronics? It is listed for $5.00 https://www.best-electronics-ca.com/custom-i.htm

Hi @woj, Not that one. If the USB controllers have Bluetooth, I was going to suggest this: https://www.tindie.com/products/riq/unijoysticle-2-800xl-gamepad-for-atari-800xl/ I actually own this and I paired my PlayStation 4 controllers with it to use it with my Atari. It also has a mode that lets one use the two analog sticks on one controller as two separate joysticks for games like Robotron and Space Dungeon that supports dual stick(it is a lot fun!)

Hi @RSA, Which USB controllers are you trying to use? Do they have built in Bluetooth as well?

Hi @madgitty, If you live in the US or Canada, you can order directly from the Brewing Academy https://thebrewingacademy.com/products/sophia-2-dvi-output-gtia-replacement

The delivery people started to do the same here in the US. And the theft does not just happen in houses either. At my building, some of the lazier couriers refuse to deliver to the actual apartment and leave the package downstairs after being buzzed in. Leaving the recipient to go downstairs to get their package. Sometimes by the time they get downstairs, the package is already stolen.

Wow fantastic! Another question ( I think I know the answer, but wanted to ask anyway): are any of the V4 cores downward compatible with either V3 or V2 hardware?

Hi @foft, Thank you for this new version! What are the differences between V4 & V3?

Hi @foft, Would something like this be more appropriate? Can be clocked to 160/168 MHz and it 5V tolerant. https://www.mouser.com/c/semiconductors/embedded-processors-controllers/microcontrollers-mcu/arm-microcontrollers-mcu/?core=ARM Cortex M4&maximum clock frequency=160 MHz~~168 MHz&program memory size=512 kB&supply voltage - max=5.5 V&rp=semiconductors%2Fembedded-processors-controllers%2Fmicrocontrollers-mcu%2Farm-microcontrollers-mcu|~Maximum Clock Frequency|~Supply Voltage - Max

Thank for the info @olix! So the issue is that some of the crystal are slightly under clocked. One question that comes to mind of the ones that worked were just one offs you just happened to pick the one that worked?

I think that would be a good idea. Maybe a jumper setting too? One setting could be for Atari sourced crystals and one for non-Atari sourced crystals?

This is how I set it up. May not be the best way, but it works. Just tested it and I get color with composite output. With this, I am done setting up my 800XL Advanced. Out of curiosity, I tried with two 10PF capacitors on each leg to see if it would work. No go.

Wow @Beeblebrox! It came out looking great! Which filament did you use?

Warning- wall of text coming. So I have been doing more research on the subject of the crystals. It seems that the clock crystals require an optimal capacitance circuit to clock in correctly. Too low, and they will clock in lower (which we have been seeing). And each crystal has different requirements. I decided to use 22PF caps because it was I had on hand that was closest to the 18PF spec of the crystal that I was testing at the time (based on it’s spec sheet-second one in the list): https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/94/CYxx-355433.pdf Now according to this article, that is not the correct way: https://www.iqdfrequencyproducts.com/blog/2020/08/03/myths-around-load-capacitance-how-to-choose-the-right-capacitors/ Here is an excerpt: “For the total load capacitance in the circuit, all capacitances need to be considered. Therefore, not only the two capacitors, but also the input and output capacitance of the microcontroller and all stray capacitances must be taken into account. This all together forms the load capacitance.” The reason the Atari crystals are working probably means that its capacitance needs to clock optimally are already met in the current PCB design. In another article, it stated that it may be better to use a crystal oscillator in some instances: https://www.jauch.com/blog/en/oscillator-or-quartz-crystal-how-to-find-the-right-component-for-your-application/#:~:text=In%20contrast%20to%20a%20quartz,the%20quartz%20crystal%20to%20oscillate. Here is an excerpt: “The oscillator is therefore the most space-saving alternative: Everything is compact and built into one component, and the developer does not have to design a circuit around the piezoelectric crystal. The component is particularly suitable for low volumes because it eliminates the need for time-consuming optimization and tuning of circuit components.” These are the “tin can clocks”. So, maybe a crystal oscillator may be a better choice to clock the Atari? I am not an expert on this and I am just curious what would be the cons to using this clocking method.

I have been doing something similar for testing. I left a length leads/legs cut off in the motherboards and I just solder to the extended leads.

Hi I just want to report back that I received the crystals from Console 5 and I had the exact same issue with a black and white composite display. It also blinks on and off. Without the caps, I am seeing a clock bouncing from 3.577 (low) to 3.579 (high) by reading GTIA pin 29 with my scope (as per the SAM's repair guide.) With the caps in place , I see a reading of 3.579 (low) to 3.582 (high). At this point, I think i am going to finalize my 800XL remake setup and use the ceramic caps with the crystal in place permanently. The only thing I am curious if there is a more optimal cap rating that should be used or is there a better way to do this? I have an 800XL that I keep around for testing, but I have to get an Antic chip so I can do the tests (I took it for my 800XL remake 😄). When I get back together, I will do some more tests with it since this piqued my curiosity. @reifsnyderb: Do you need me to any more testing?

Sorry for the delay in my response (was busy because of the holiday). My Ender 3 was upgraded in several ways: 1. New heavier springs for the bed 2. Glass bed 3. BL touch sensor 4. Non Creality customized firmware that adds built in leveling with the BL Touch and other enhancements. 5. Copperhead Heat break 6. SEEMECNC EZR STRUDER 7. Creality 3D Printer enclosure 8. 3D printed knob to make removing and and advancing filament easier 9. Replaced filament motor that had pressed on filament filament feeder gear with one that accepts keyed gears with secure screw 10 Upgraded to dual gear/motor setup for the Z axis Here are the links for the STL files: Thingiverse Printables.com

By the way @reifsnyderb, the mother board works great! I am using it all these non-Atari chips and it works like champ. It works with Subcart and the original Side3 cart. I have been playing marathon sessions with Robotron and no issues. I am just waiting to get the other crystal from Console 5 to do some more testing to then finalizing the setup. Is there anything else you want me to test on it?

I prefer the right one. Thank you!

Just so you know, I printed this on my upgraded Ender 3 😀

Sure I can share it! I will see I can post it later today. One thing I want to point out that this was not an easy setup. The design has three pieces in which the cable must be threaded through. The cable for the Sophia 2 was fabricated in place and is more or less permanent (I have spare cable, so I can always remake it). For the Pokeymax cabling , I used shielded cable. One final thing, when screw is made, make sure the PLA material is strong. Some PLA is not strong because of formulation and would easily shear with a little pressure added. The setup works perfectly. I was playing a bunch of games with my almost Atari clone.

So here is what I was doing with my print. I really did not want to cut up my case, so I made an external enclosure for the Sophia 2 DVI and Pokeymax output. It came out well!

@Jfcatari Thanks for the info! Did you try the capacitors with Mouser CY3DM? Would you be able to update the BOM to reflect some of the changes we discovered? Maybe make a section just for the crystals with different options? Looking at your list, it seems we had some bad luck with the choice of crystals. It makes sense that not all manufacturers will have the same tolerances for their products in terms of the specs . Now we know the need to account for that possibility. I am currently waiting on some crystals from Console 5 to test and will report back. I need to order some more items from Digikey anyway, so I will order the ones you flagged as working from them.

In one video which I watched during my research, the person used an trim cap and an inductor so the frequency can be fine tuned: I am not sure if it is an appropriate application for the motherboard, but it was very instructional. And here is another tip that may be helpful if one does not have an oscillator. I tried it and it seemed to work:

Hi @reifsnyderb, Yes. This is how I wired it (I was doing different tests): I made a mistake. This what I had used: 22pf https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/A220J15C0GH5TAA?qs=x%2FgbKjZ2T%2FNkboQf1eaA0g%3D%3D