scorpio_ny

March 23

I am going to go to try with a regular TV. (I am hoping that the TV has composite in 😄). But one thing, I set my Retrotink for composite video input and made sure that the wiring was for composite (no svideo connection) and tested it with my LCD display. I got a color screen (and tons of jail bars 😱)

March 23

5 minutes ago, Jfcatari said:

I am using the same crystal that you are using that I suggested a little back.

I am getting color and did have to adjust the pot for it to work, BUT I only get B/W when using composite video to a tube TV/CRT, I always get color when using the converters from: composite to VGA, svideo to HDMI, and composite to HDMI

Working with Brian, we are thinking the problem might be back at the GITA or clock side.

I have GITA's and Atari clocks that I can swap in.

I wanted someone else to confirm that they are seeing what I am seeing. Brian is using an Atari clock.

It will be an interesting test since I am using the Sophia 2 instead of GTIA.

March 23

18 minutes ago, Jfcatari said:

I am tracking down an issues with composite video being only B/W when I connect to a tube monitor or CRT.

When I use

SDVIDEO to HDMI convertor, I get color.

Composite to VGA convertor, I get color

Straight composite to tube TV or CRT, I get only B/W

Ok! Which clock crystal are you using? @reifsnyderb mentioned that he had a lot problems with the non-Atari sourced clock crystal getting only B/W. I had the same issue until I adjusted the POT.

March 23

10 hours ago, Jfcatari said:

Glad to see you got it working...Your desk looks a lot like the rat's nest I have on mine.

@scorpio_ny Could you please do me a favor?

Could you test the composite video out on your remake build using a tube based TV or a tube based composite monitor?

Do you have color just using composite video?

I see you have a RetroTink in the mix which is taking svideo and converting it to HDMI.

Hi @Jfcatari,

I personally do not own a CRT based display. I know someone that does and maybe I can take my computer over to test.

The only thing is that it now has a Sophia 2 installed. What are looking for to see?

March 23

10 hours ago, FastRobPlus said:

I'd like to add stereo to one of my Ataris. I don't know of any good solutions around right now, but I did stumble across this Simple Stereo V2 in a drawer.

Is there an assembly guide somewhere? Mostly I just need the resistor/cap values and the switch info.

Lotharek's website is still around but I thought I'd ask here to save having to setup an account there.

Another way to get stereo is install a Pokeymax. It is a FPGA recreation of the Pokey chip. Depending on the version, it could also do Covox or Quad Pokey for example.

March 23

Just now, reifsnyderb said:

My main issue was with color. I was unable to get color unless I used the Atari crystal. Otherwise, using non-Atari parts, where possible, is fine.

Ah ok. It is funny you mentioned that. When I first powered it on, it was only black and white too. I was able to correct it by adjusting the color pot. I had to do an initial very large adjustment until I saw some color. Then, I had to do very, very small turns to get the color right.

March 23

57 minutes ago, reifsnyderb said:

Hello!

It's good to see you got it working! I also see that you are using a non-Atari crystal. I had nothing but problems with non-Atari crystals. What's the part number on the crystal you used?

I don't know what to tell you about the ROM issue. It does sound like some sort of timing issue, though. Either that or a bad connection somewhere. I never ran into that sort of problem.

Best Regards,

Brian

Hi Brian!

I was not aware that you had issues with non-Atari crystals and that would make a lot of sense on why I was having issues. I guess I lucked out that the Sally adapter somehow compensated for it. The crystal was recommended by @Jfcatari and here is the part: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cts-frequency-controls/MP036S/67661

So, does this mean it is recommended that the 800XL remake should use original Atari donor parts to lessen the chances of issues?

March 23

Hi @reifsnyderb,

I finally built the 800XL remake and I have an interesting issue. When I try to boot to basic with the RF switch set to the left, it always goes to rom self test. When I try to boot a cartridge, it still goes to self test. When I try the switch on the right, it looks like it tries to get into basic and it just hangs at the blue screen. Cartridges work fine. I just started to test with some multi-carts and it seems to be working fine. When I ran Simcheck 1.5, it recognized it had as an Atari 400/800 CPU with 48K of RAM which was very strange!

Here is the kicker: I am building this system to see how much I can build it without original Atari components. I had already built the Byte Attic's Sally adapter a while ago for this project (before you made this board). I decided to give it a try and guess what? It worked! I was able to boot into basic when I set the switch to the left (Atari) or right (Altria Basic). So I am at a loss what gives. Could it be some sort of timing issue? The other Sally CPU's were Synertek models and one that was manufactured in Mexico.

Since it worked with the CPU board I was going to use anyway, I pressed on and installed a Pokeymax and the Sophia 2. It was already using the modern 6520 chip too. And they all worked! I am sure there will be some compatibility issues with some software or hardware down the road. But it is nice to see that we can are close to building an Atari with none of the original custom chips. Hopefully, there will be more cost efficient replacements down the road.

Here it is playing the Last Squadron loaded from a Side 3

@olix: The switch I ordered was too small.

March 20

21 hours ago, Piotr D. Kaczorowski said:

@scorpio_ny

I'm not sure, but I have some spare cables like that from other Rapidus units because I always change this connector to ordinary gold pins. If you would like me to send it from Warsaw to NY, the cost will be approximately $7.

BTW. On my YouTube channel, I will post some hints regarding the usage of Rapidus: www.youtube.com/@petertheatarian

Hi Piotr,

Thank you for the offer! I am still trying to see if I can source it locally. If I cannot, I will take you up on your offer.

March 19

Hi everyone!

I am going to install a Rapidus board into my 800XL that has the U1MB installed and I realized that I am missing the cable for GND/EXTSEL/MPD to do the install (I had acquired the upgrade second hand). Does anyone know the name of the connector and/or cable that is needed and where to source it?

Thanks!

image.jpeg.4cf1f0c42b3493d909cd4f1619e396ef.jpeg

March 19

9 hours ago, olix said:

Does anyone have a part number from Mouser or Digi-Key for a compatible SW1 switch:
ROM Bank (was RF Switch)

I live in Germany and this switch was not installed on the PAL machines. So I don't have a sample to look for a replacement.

Hi Olix

I had ordered one from Digikey to see if it would viable. I still have not received it yet. Here is the part number:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/apem-inc/MHSS1105/1949465

When I get it, I will let you know if it works.

March 17

42 minutes ago, Bernd Spautz said:

So in the end I have two options.

I find any contact problems or I solder the PokeyMax.

Why not just replace the socket with a new one?

March 14

PM sent for the Imagic games

March 14

Hi @CJ Atari,

Any chance you can post a picture of the motherboard? Is it possible that maybe something was missed? Like the NTSC jumper for NTSC video for example?

March 12

1 hour ago, mytek said:

Agreed. If they were then they would meet two basic criteria.

They would work identical to the original in all regards (e.g., timing, output quality where applicable, ect.), and electrically be indistinguishable from the original it is meant to replace.

They would stay within the footprint and height of the original chip (e.g., no overhang, or increase in height).

In all cases the present day replacements fail in at least one or both regards.

While I agree that there is room for improvement, I am still thankful the modern replacements exist. As time goes one, we will hopefully see improvements in performance, footprint and price down the road.

March 12

16 hours ago, reifsnyderb said:

I don't think the work-arounds really matter. The issue I see is that Atari has three LSI chips for which there is no one-for-one replacement for. An FPGA could probably be used for the Sally chip, too. The theory is that the FPGA is supposed to be the magical wonder chip that can do anything. The reality is otherwise.

Actually, there are two active replacements that work.(GTIA—> Sophia2, Pokey—>Pokeymax). The issue is that they are not low cost replacements.

On 3/10/2024 at 5:39 PM, Larry said:

I was curious if anything like this has been done for Pokey replacements. I saw an advertisement for the BackSID for $32.00, so it seems logical that a Pokey replacement could be done for a similar price (say under $50). But no bells and whistles -- just a good Pokey replacement

I believe the reason why it is cheaper is because it is not based on a FPGA but actually an ARM cortex based chip. Thus the lower cost. Another popular SID replacement, ARMsid, is definitely based on an ARM cortex chip.

Posted March 11 · March 11

4 hours ago, bytebinge said:

I performed the U1MB upgrade on my Atari 1200XL, but am getting some error related to "Profile 3 reset!".

I don't know what to do about this, but I also am not able to successfully launch the Side3, I just get a static block cursor. I assume I need to solve this "Profile 3 reset" before I can move on to troubleshoot anything else.

The 1200XL needs more work to get it going. Did you follow the install steps outlined in this post?

https://forums.atariage.com/topic/224151-ultimate-1mb-in-1200xl/

March 11

The Hokey is a sound only implementation of the Pokey chip used for certain cartridge games on the 7800.

Here is more info: https://forums.atariage.com/topic/321741-hokey-demo/page/2/#comment-4968839

March 8

There are gerber files for a MIDI card too. I believe it has not been tested yet.

March 7

4 hours ago, CJ Atari said:

Ok - the clock overshoot is a manifestation of the oscilloscope / probes most likely based on some research. But the low voltage is a problem. And just adding its on me to fix, not looking for mega-help.

I would also check to make sure any diodes are not put in backwards.

March 7

6 hours ago, DjayBee said:

Problem is that both are closed designs and thus cards would need to be developed by the original developers in Poland and supplied by Lotharek.

I guess it is not as simple as passing on the signals these devices need via PBI/ECI instead of directly off the motherboard.

March 3

5 hours ago, Jfcatari said:

Where are you looking for the clock?

Digikey has them:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cts-frequency-controls/MP036S/67661

Thank you for the info! Going to place an order for it.

March 1

Finally got around to ordering the components to build this board (clock crystal is still out of stock though). Looking forward to building it! Trying to build it with almost no original Atari custom chips.

February 29

48 minutes ago, woj said:

I considered designing a PCB to have normal HDMI instead, but I was not up to the task of mixing in the analog audio too, I could not find ready solutions / schematics for this, and without that it seemed pointless. Without audio doing a board like this to ship from JLC or PCBWay should take you a couple of days if you have ever done something of this sort before.

Hi @woj,

Someone a while back did create a mini HDMI board for the Sophia 2 and supplied a gerber file for it. It does not supply audio out, but some people may be interested in using something like this instead of of DVI out. I am evaluating this myself with my installs.

https://forums.atariage.com/topic/321170-atari-600xl-ntsc-and-sophia-2-hdmi-install/