walldog1

That is a stock design... the other unused pin goes to ground. The engineers must have toyed with the idea of a 2nd ground returning to the power supply. I personally like the idea of a second ground path back to the PSB. I will add a 2nd wire in that open slot and run it over to the perimeter ground tracing on the Logic Board.

That's cool. Literally I imagine. I remember talking about those in a post a couple of years back with you. Looks good!

I just drew an "X" on the bottom of the DC PS PCB pictured below for the positive connection. This does not tap into any voltage going directly to the Logic Board. There is no need for any other electronic devices... although an inline fuse could be suggested. However, there are no other electrical protection features on an INTV anyways.

I too have done this in the past depending on why the Mylar membrane has failed. I have found that repairs like this in the directional disc area don't last however. That is when it is time to order some new ones from...

Thanks for sharing your in depth knowledge. I should have known that the shields in the INTV I were "government imposed", but yet I did not. Also, when I was studying electrical theory back in the 1970's, photons were certainly never part of the discussion. But I agree with all you stated. They are still "pristine original condition" as the fan is held in place with Velcro and hot-glue. Oh, I suppose the 1mm hole I drilled in the PS PCB may have killed it's value.😁

If you are interested, I can rebuild an Intellivision 2609 and install Crayon King's RGB Mod Kit as well. I have everything on hand. Is that what you are asking about?

I am not familiar with this specific modulator, but I would agree this opinion.

I'll probably just purchase... feel free to contact me if there is a need!

I received an email from a source for new GI AY-3-8914 IC's. I have used them in the past. However, every time I think I have a good price source for anything retro, AA members seem to advise me differently. So my question is: Is there a need for these in the retro gaming community? Or does anyone else also know of a source for these? There is a quantity minimum of 20 @ $3 a piece + shipping from this source.

Take it apart! If you are lucky, it may be as simple as a continuity problem with the wire harness. Otherwise, your problem lies within the Mylar Tri-fold tracings. OR... someone else left the "insulator disc" out which should be between the Mylar folds at the directional disc. Then just make a new one out of anything thin and non conductive. I've seen this dozens of times believe it or not.

99% of the time, my experience has been the metal dome to circuit board tracings. Under the metal dome, I always add a small spot of solder to the worn out "via" for lack of a better term. I then solder the dome legs to the board tracings. Seems to do the trick, so I do this to every Logic board I have to repair.

I have some scrap boards in a pile. If you pay for shipping, then I'll send you the logic board. Message me if interested.

You can find these Hi-Lo RAM chips on eBay and other sources. And yes, 8-bit ram are 22 pin and marked GTE3539. Four bit ram are 18 pin and marked AM9114. This is what I mistakenly referred to a few posts ago about 8-bit & 16-bit. Make sure to order sockets for the corresponding number of IC Chip pins as well. The tracings going to these chips run in between the legs of the other RAM so be careful as you remove the solder and IC chips from the board.

Yes, first I thought the stic was doing something strange because the ladder tile is offset by less than eight pixels. But it's not, some ladder patterns are drawn to the right others to the left. I'm now thinking the stic is okay and would first look at the 16-bit system ram chip. I agree. Also, some of the INTV 2609's use 8-bit system for the Hi-Lo RAM chips as you are probably aware of. I am still not aware of what determined which INTV's got the 8-bit or the 16-bit system....maybe manufacturing date???

Thank you Psychotrooper & Mr_me for the education!