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Irgendwer last won the day on March 1 2018

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  1. At least it seems there was the strong intention for an A8 release. Have a look at the list of supported platforms in a German games magazine, testing "Gunship". Normally the information given was quite accurate...
  2. There are several SNES controller projects, but just in case you mean "SNACK", it sounds that you are not aware that it is fully Joy2B+ compatible...
  3. @damosan already added the missing header. The problems with the missing "OS"-symbol are reasoned by a more than 3 year old cc65 version. See also here:
  4. I own a (quite sophisticated) "Turbo Computer Light Pen" and while developing the CLM17 a noticed that the light pen is a much more "direct" device contrary to a light gun which has AFAIR a delay of about a half scan line until reporting the beam back to the machine. IMHO an important thing, often overlooked, is that a light pen/gun is much more a pointing device than usable for delivering constant positions. (I regard "Atari Graphics " not as ideal in this regard.) Contrast to background was already mentioned, so it's impossible to draw a continuous black line on a white background while crossing the just created line during draw would mean loosing track of the position estimation. So the obligatory "flash" (like in light-gun applications) is also of great use in light pen applications (sticking to e.g. poly-line control point creation). The jitters can also be reasoned by not delivering enough light to the sensor (blue background), making triggering harder, or reaching light from the line above partially the sensor. But as we all know, precise horizontal estimation is always more difficult timing wise and more critical by design.
  5. "There is always plenty time to play KLAX." ;)
  6. No, the device normally operates in absolute mode. Only when using the magnification in Atari Artist, the positioning is estimated relatively. The paddle range fully covers the 160x192 coordinates of the supported graphics mode. As for trouble shooting the issue: Inside of the tablet are AFAIR 3(?) calibration pots to adapt the range. If they are e.g. corroded you could try adjusting them. Excluding issues with the machine/Pokey by trying normal paddles with it or trying the tablet on an other machine could help too. Some users don't mind that using a joystick-port-splitter and two devices with it the then parallel chain of resistors invalidates the correct function.
  7. https://atariage.com/forums/topic/164920-600xl-badge/?do=findComment&comment=2039614
  8. 400, 800, XL, XE - all there: I really like his enthusiasm. War is so senseless.
  9. The ending picture of the "cup" is counted as level 37 as it was easier to code internal numbering of pictures as levels.
  10. @Rebeep created a long play video of the game. SPOILER ALERT: The full game/solution is covered as well as accessing the final extra level. For those who already played the game, the video shows really nice the original art for the extra riddle. For others it surly helps if you get stuck. BTW: If you haven't rated the game on AtariMania yet, please do so: http://www.atarimania.com/game-atari-400-800-xl-xe-dye_30897.html
  11. Rotate the graphics by 90° and make a 3D-platformer out of it...
  12. Nice! Good to see someone is using the design. Here is the orientation and supports, how I print the parts:
  13. CMI08 supports both (starting over when border is reached - which can be detected reliable with a quite relaxed sampling scheme). https://atariage.com/forums/topic/134949-advance-orders-for-cmi08-ps2-mouse-interface/
  14. Finally I completed the case for my adapter. The case consists of three parts. You can find the STL files in the archive (dimensions are 'mm'). I managed to handle the different port heights by constructing two grooves for the PCB in the bottom part. If you slide the PCB in the top groove, the port height matches the 400/800/XL. If you slide the PCB into the bottom groove, the height matches the XE series. Since the bottom part holds the two top parts quite well together, you can normally abstain from gluing them together. With one exception: If you have a prototype board (inspect the vias on the PCB) the joystick connector is not so well centered and the PCB has slightly more width. Here it's better to take some superglue and apply it to the seam of the top parts. Please note: To allow operation in the "XE-groove" you have to take off 2mm of the bottom of the small bars of the NES port. Happy 3D-printing and good luck finding the material colors matching your machine. (...and don't be irritated by still seeing in the pics the support structure of the bottom part. I left it intentionally in there as it doesn't disturb.) SNACK Case V1.zip
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