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Rybags last won the day on September 1 2016

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  1. Original 320XL but it doesn't have a passthru.
  2. Differences vs normal legacy 6502 should just be in the pinout and as you've mentioned the /Halt pin is active low so should be held high if the CPU is used outside it's normal home. 2 audio pops though - normally you get audio pop on powerup and if you press Reset - this is a good diagnostic sign that the CPU and OS are at least partially good. Also a black screen or screen that starts reddish brown then goes black is usually a sign of that too. But if your tests are working properly that does look like a sick or dead CPU.
  3. Usually a given PC based utility will only work down to 8-bit samples. I've always just used a quick self-written program to convert. Use input of either 16 or 8 bit (preferably unsigned) sample data. Either throw away the lower bits (integer divide) or use rounding to get 4 bit samples. Then pack those samples, high/low into 8 bits and output to a file which then is read into the Atari.
  4. Pokey Timer is the best method especially if the screen is displaying something. Wait on WSync or VCOUNT is OK also but means the CPU is at 100% and also ties you to that particular sample period (or multiple of) Simple delay loop is a primitive method and not well suited if a display is present as you get way too much variation in the real time elapsed.
  5. Using logic to determine what color to use is OK (though was it intended in the listing?) - but that PLOT at the end looks to have some corruption in the Y parameter.
  6. News to me - although I did a short loader + 8K block (at higher bitrate) of the AsmEd cart that would load in about half the time, I had no idea that commercial games ever bothered to use such a technique. At the least, it's a really good copy protection method since there's no easy way to know what length is being used if it's not the default (and additional to that you could probably use a different timing sequence method which would make SIO based copying next to impossible)
  7. I live in the Australian Capital Territory which is usually abbreviated to ACT. So, ACTARI was the name of our local user group. At it's peak, probably near 20 people showed up to meetings. As you'd probably expect, somewhat smaller than the local Commodore group (I only went to one of theirs, from memory it was probably closer to 40) I was a regular at ACTARI from around 1983 to 1987. Once the ST was established about 1985 it started to take over. I'd finished school at the end of that year so after that, interest dropped off a bit for me. There were other big groups interstate, MACE (Melbourne Atari Computer Enthusiasts) is the only one I can remember at the moment.
  8. Cheers... I was unable to find a DBasic manual from a quick search. But I do have a photocopy I did back in the day - problem though is it's probably 200 pages worth. Might start scanning it at some point.
  9. Good to see this, I don't think I've used it in over 20 years. Got it working in Steem, it seems not to like later TOS versions or hardware beyond the early machines. Now to just see if I can get some of my old floppies back from the guy I sold my 1040 to.
  10. Yes, but they have to be to a mounted disk image.
  11. There's plenty of USB types around but depending on chipset you might get the problem of buffering and/or poor interpretation of the non-interlaced signal. And generally they're not tuners, only doing composite or S-Video input. As for software - it's only really the driver you need to worry about, most software will work with any given capture device of the given type. I used to play with capture cards/devices a lot but these days with DTV being able to be recorded easily on most set top boxes and TVs I rarely use them.
  12. I don't know that anyone would go to the effort to get Rev C source working with AtAsm. I used to use AtAsm but it's essentially "depricated" - the in thing for years has been MADS and I'm not sure AtAsm has even had any updates in about 15 years. Looking at the Atari Basic Source Book it would probably be possible with some work to get it working in AtAsm. The changes for Rev B and C I don't think were very large - it could probably be made to produce that version without too much pain.
  13. I (regret now) sold practically all my old 3.5" Amiga floppies. So my personal stocks of 3.5 vs 5 is probably in the order of 1 to 3 (not counting ED ones with the 2 holes since they're practically useless when formatted for 720K) In terms of reliability I'd probably rate the 5" as better despite mostly being older. I'd put that down partially due to the fact that they're hardly being asked to do much when formatted to around half their rated capacity. My oldest 5" is probably from around 1982-3 and I'd have plenty from 1984-7. Probably very few after 1989. I don't think anyone makes either type anymore? Sort of sad. NOS has it's attractions but would be a lottery. I've seen 3.5" 10 packs a couple of times in op shops over the last year but they're the ED ones so not really interested.
  14. It's packed away but I'll try and see about getting it out in the coming days... and it's got a Supermon OS board which has stability issues also.
  15. Could this be related to chip age, or maybe the amount of time the chip has been in use? My Atari 400 here - it's barely been powered on probably since the early 1990s, so might serve as a good test case for a low use GTIA - though in the period 1981-85 it would have had a lot of use.
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