Almost Rice

This is my 800xl mod. I put power to it waiting for something like this.

Now, I know who got those from under me.

To address the seller's question, I would have responded by asking for the item's return for a "full" refund inside the dispute. This is from experience on Amazon. When in a dispute, the buyer is almost always right in Amazon's eyes. I can only ask for my item back in order to refund. I have seen that this is the only way I have seen to prevent an automatic decision for the buyer. The buyer now has to prove they shipped the item back to the seller in order to get a refund. Ebay may have started to take this position to protect buyers. I had one AtoZ claimed my item material different from the listing. It was the only time I had to state that this is not possible as I was the manufacturer and the one who created the listing. The item sent was exactly as pictured. In any case, I always state that the buyer has not returned the item and I would be unable to refund until that is done. If Amazon grants a materially different claim, the seller is out the item and the money. I do not know eBay's position on this. In any case, I would think that the seller must state that the item has not been returned for a refund to be processed. 'Full' refund on only the purchase price if all parts are there. Shipping is not refunded. Amazon allows for up to a 20% restocking fee, but I have not done this to any buyer. If eBay automatically refunds even when I claim item has not been returned, I would not do business there. This would open the door wide for scammers. For proof of delivery the Amazon seller would have to ship with signature confirmation to protect themself. I would assume the same is true for buyer trying to get a refund. If the buyer ships and empty box but only uses delivery confirmation, they would lose if the seller claims non-delivery. I am not too sure what eBay's policy on this. Asking for the item back has prevented a lot of trouble. I have noticed that buyers are trying to get something for nothing. If you respond like just stating your side, (i.e. "the item was test and works" and buyer state it is "item does not work"), you will lose. You must always ask for the item back so you can start processing refund. The casual scammer has just dropped the claim when I do this. The scammers know how to game the system. You must know how to protect yourself. As for the Sear L6, I would have not use Atari all over the place to advertise. Just enough for the search to pick up 'Atari' & '2600'. I would have titled it "Sear Tele-Games system, rebadged Atari 2600". This prevents the casual buyer like this one from mistaking it for an Atari badged 2600. We as collectors forget the lay person has no idea they are internally exactly the same and that even the power supply says Atari. Just remember the buyer barely reads anything. The first 2-3 words are all they read in the title and it is your job to make sure they are not mistaken. Being a new buyer, he may have been looking for an Atari branded system and I would not automatically assume scammer except for the fact that he did not contact you prior to putting in a claim.

Posts like these just reinforces my decision to stop selling on ebay back in 2007.

Maybe because the 800 label looks to be a different color or the hand written label below the serial number? That is all I can see that is different. Also the case seems to be less yellow than most 800s I have seen.

Lucky dog. My local thrift has one too. They want $30 for it. I would snap it up if it was lower.

I see sent by my name. hopefully it wont take too long. I will probably put the PAL antic back into my PAL 600xl to use with one of these. Did not have many screens that could do NTSC 50Hz from my 130xe and PAL antic.

I picked up an American Dynamics ADMNLCD20 20" LCD screen for $12. It can take Composite through a BNC connector or Svideo.

This may have been the result of playing too much Defender.

This is what I picked up in the past 2 months. The last 5 in the last 2 weeks. I just got around to posting them. Fairchild w/ 2 controllers and PS missing button4 $8.98 NES w/ 2 controllers, PS, and RF $6.96 N64 $2.72 N64 w/ PS $5 Genesis/CD $4.90 Gamecube w/ PS $7.97

How have you connected the Svideo to the TV/Monitor and what else do you have connected to the TV? I had a something output to Svideo while having something else connected to the composite port and had a B/W output. Check the output of TV with nothing else connected except Svideo.

Just because a plug fits does not mean you can just plug it into the socket. It may not have fried the 1050. Here is a warning that may save a few A8, don't try to plug a C64 PS into any of our XL/XEs.

From your market place ad: That is a Atari 5200 PS. 1050 PS should be 9VAC. That is probably why the drive is acting weird. check the FAQ

That is a Atari 5200 PS. 1050 PS should be 9VAC. That is probably why the drive is acting weird. check the FAQ

What is the specs on the power supply? It looks like a 5200 PS to me.

How much did that converter cost? It might have been easier and cheaper to get a new 110v adaptor from B&C.

I had to shut mine down because the power was going off in the building I work in for the weekend. I was going to restart it on Monday.

If you have a modern TV, it may be able to handle a PAL composite signal. Did you already get a power supply that can handle 110V? You will need a monitor cable to get the composite signal from the monitor port to a RCA port.

I opened that package when my uncle bought his 400.

Because of all the bad ports of 2600 games I did not even give stargate a chance. It was only after defender arcade was made tha I tried it. It is hands down my favorite 2600 game. Only a proper 800 or 7800 port of this game could get me as excited.

Did you disconnect the audio signal from the rf modulator? That was one of the first problems I encountered

In a home system, Odyssey 2. I cant remember what my 1st exposure to an arcade was.

I remember the fire button starting a game for that one. Something like hitting the fire button and dying.

cool my cc3 needs some use.

My 130xe then my 800