LittleJoe

I hope to work with low_budget and soon make these readily available via ebay and www.electronicsentimentalities.com.

No, it doesn't. If you lift pins 6 and 9 you do not have to remove the resistor below the TIA. You need not remove the other components as well. The only reason for removing the components on the board is to disconnect pins 6 and 9 from the rest of the circuit on the Atari. The audio pins 12 and 13 need to be lifted as well.

I was never 100% happy with the composite output, it never looked as nice as the rock solid s-video. I could see the TV I was using automatically adjusting the brightness as I turned the pots, and for a split second I 'd have excellent composite video, but then the TV would adjust making it too bright and washed out, and was forced to adjust the brightness down on the TV. This would reveal color clock skips in blues and other colors in composite, whereas s-video would be fine. Intuition told me that the sync signal was a little strong compared to chroma/luma, going into the fms6400 filter. So I've made a small change the recent builds that I've done. I've substituted a 1.6K resistor in place of R3 which was 1.0k ohm. I also put 75 ohm output resistors on the composite, chroma and luma jacks per the applications notes for the FMS6400. Not really sure if the location makes a difference, but they appear to be right on the jacks in the application notes. Are they located there to reduce RF interference? The output resistors on Chroma and Luma aren't really needed, as far as I can tell, but installing them allows a single adjustment for Composite and S-Video.

The best way I know how to get rid of the 7800 mode diagonal interfence is to cut the wire (install a manual swtich) from the TIA 9 connection to the mod board. Disconnect it temporarily and give it a try.

Plugging my auction... No reserve... eBay Auction -- Item Number: 290646681841

Nope. NTSC. Corrected that. Thanks.

http://www.atariage....d/page__st__125 eBay Auction -- Item Number: 290616521395

Pluggin my own auction: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 300606429769

Another photo...

The pause circuit is from http://www.victortrucco.com/Atari/AtariPausa/atariPausa_en.asp. I had three sample PCBs made from DorkBotPDX of the pause circuit. AtariAge has a pause kit using the same circuit available. The video upgrade schematic is from BAtari, right here on the forum. Look for his "Lets Design a New Video Mod" thread in Hardware. I updated the auction with another photo. I'll post more photos here in the next few days. Shipping to Canada is fine, I'll update the auction.

Shamelessly hawking my no-reserve auction. eBay Auction -- Item Number: 290614181432

Shamelessly hawking my good old fashined no reserve auction. eBay Auction -- Item Number: 290604783457

There's a jumper to supply +5 to pin 2 if needed so the 6406 and 6400 will work. I've not used it myself but I don't see why the ML6428 wouldn't work. I should have the complete kits up on 8/22. Just need to touch up the instructions.

Hey, I actually sold one of those! Good review too. Anyhow, I've switched over to selling BAtari's excellent open source mod for the 2600 with his OK. I've got the assembled boards up now, complete kits and bare boards coming soon. eBay Auction -- Item Number: 290587575364

The g version is just a correction to the silkscreen for some of the resistor values. No change to the schematic.

I'm reselling the LHE mod on ebay with his OK, so you can get an excellent mod and excellent service: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 290544161106

10 2600 Heavy Sixers ~90 2600's 1 800 1 1200XL 1 800XL 1 Flashback 2 3 Lynx 5 5200 5 7800 Can I count BenHecks 2600 mill ends from the portables that he made as partial 2600's?

I use Orange Deco opaque paint pens with good results.

I've finally come across one of these. Single chip C101688. My Harmony (1.3 firmware) doesn't seem to work with it, going to have give the latest firmware a try.

I can't bare to part with my pile of bad 2600 IC's either. I keep mine on my kitchen sink window sill. It's a good thing they're small. I've got a couple of commons on my counter top backsplash, perhaps one day I'll go all the way around the countertop with them.

If you've got good modualtion while frying, it's probably not the modulator. Usually when I've seen bad CPU's the black screen has a faint grey bar at the bottom. I'd swap the chips at this point. If still no go then bad solder joints and/or clock circuit. But I've never been able to fry a bad CPU (or clock circuit) into displaying anything though, so my wild guess right now is a bad riot.

I didn't got any e-mail with tracking code, did you ? No Me either, but, if you paid with google checkout, you can go there for your order status and tracking info.

USPS says mine will arrive tomorrow!

I finally put pots on my experimenters board build, and it looks excellent, except for a little vertical rf striping. But I don't have the ground plane so that's to be expected. Is there anything I can do to improve the RF situation on an experimenters’ board? If I can help with some of the grunt work on the installation instructions please let me know.

7800 mods are now in stock - reselling Longhorn's boards. I've thrown up a web site for ordering: www.electronicsentimentalities.com. I'm still pluggin away with the 5200 mod. I've got nice luma from the faq schematic on a two port, but adding chroma is causing me trouble.