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LittleJoe

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Posts posted by LittleJoe

  2. Posted

    So does this extra resistor need to be removed?

     

    No, it doesn't. If you lift pins 6 and 9 you do not have to remove the resistor below the TIA. You need not remove the other components as well. The only reason for removing the components on the board is to disconnect pins 6 and 9 from the rest of the circuit on the Atari. The audio pins 12 and 13 need to be lifted as well.

  3. Posted

    I was never 100% happy with the composite output, it never looked as nice as the rock solid s-video. I could see the TV I was using automatically adjusting the brightness as I turned the pots, and for a split second I 'd have excellent composite video, but then the TV would adjust making it too bright and washed out, and was forced to adjust the brightness down on the TV. This would reveal color clock skips in blues and other colors in composite, whereas s-video would be fine. Intuition told me that the sync signal was a little strong compared to chroma/luma, going into the fms6400 filter.

     

    So I've made a small change the recent builds that I've done. I've substituted a 1.6K resistor in place of R3 which was 1.0k ohm. I also put 75 ohm output resistors on the composite, chroma and luma jacks per the applications notes for the FMS6400. Not really sure if the location makes a difference, but they appear to be right on the jacks in the application notes. Are they located there to reduce RF interference? The output resistors on Chroma and Luma aren't really needed, as far as I can tell, but installing them allows a single adjustment for Composite and S-Video.

  10. Posted

    • The pause circuit is from http://www.victortrucco.com/Atari/AtariPausa/atariPausa_en.asp. I had three sample PCBs made from DorkBotPDX of the pause circuit. AtariAge has a pause kit using the same circuit available.
    • The video upgrade schematic is from BAtari, right here on the forum. Look for his "Lets Design a New Video Mod" thread in Hardware.
    • I updated the auction with another photo. I'll post more photos here in the next few days.
    • Shipping to Canada is fine, I'll update the auction.

    • Like 1

  13. Posted

    There's a jumper to supply +5 to pin 2 if needed so the 6406 and 6400 will work. I've not used it myself but I don't see why the ML6428 wouldn't work.

     

    I should have the complete kits up on 8/22. Just need to touch up the instructions.

     

    Littlejoe, that's great news!

     

    Are those boards using the FMS6400/FMS6406 or the ML6428?

     

    What do you figure is the ETA on complete kits?

  15. Posted

    LittleJoe, do you know the difference betweent the 2.2F and the 2.2G revision? The parts list only lists 2.2F on LHE's site, but I'm seeing a 2.2G rev number on the PCBs, and some references on his website.

     

    The g version is just a correction to the silkscreen for some of the resistor values. No change to the schematic.

    • Like 2

  21. Posted

    If you've got good modualtion while frying, it's probably not the modulator. Usually when I've seen bad CPU's the black screen has a faint grey bar at the bottom. I'd swap the chips at this point. If still no go then bad solder joints and/or clock circuit. But I've never been able to fry a bad CPU (or clock circuit) into displaying anything though, so my wild guess right now is a bad riot.

  24. Posted

    Yes - just need to add another jumper (for mono/stereo), change the footprint for the pots and add a resistor in series with the brightness pot. Also, need to work up some installation instructions.

     

    I finally put pots on my experimenters board build, and it looks excellent, except for a little vertical rf striping. But I don't have the ground plane so that's to be expected. Is there anything I can do to improve the RF situation on an experimenters’ board?

     

    If I can help with some of the grunt work on the installation instructions please let me know.

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