jferio

As far as I know, Play 'n' Trade is like Game Force, more of a franchise operation. I've had decent luck with the ones here in Colorado, but then, my purchase rate of 2600 carts has slowed down quite a bit the past couple of years. As for my latest, I finally pulled the copy of the old Qbert board game out of my parents' place (only 1 piece missing), and one of my mom's sorority sisters got a framed poster of the Enterprise D from the first season of TNG from her work that they were just going to throw out.

...because it locked up and wiped the save file out? I'm about to dispose of a PS2 game on account of that... two savefiles in two weeks is a bit much, I'm just glad I only lost a couple of hours of time to it.

Ive just got two CRTs right now... worth the effort of moving so that I can still play Duck Hunt, which is the only lightgun game I play at all right now. One's in the computer room for games, the other is in the living room for 'entertaining company' video viewing, and is by all rights the 'backup' unit. The rest of the video game stuff is a bit bulky, but I can manage when it comes time to move it. I only try not to by everything in sight because I have a limited amount of space to keep it all.

I passed up the opportunity to buy one of those for $3. I figured it wasn't worth the hassle of storing it.

Adaptation of a Supercharger and a tape deck into an integrated Atari unit?

Atari 2600 heavy sixer Atari 7800 Mattel Intellivision I Microsoft Xbox, Halo Edition NES SNES Atari Flashback 2 Nintendo GameCube Sega Genesis Model 1 with Model 2 SegaCD and PowerBase converter Sony PlaystationTwo (on loan though)

Just the RCA cable with adapter should do.

What I've noticed, since I got a Heavy Sixer over the weekend and can now compare to my 'Woody', is that my Woody demonstrates not only washed out colors in comparison, but also considerably more static than the H6. The static comes from the lighter internal shielding, the colors are because of some minor circuit changes. This thread talks about the color issues and the key difference: http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/142708-fine-tune-heavy-2600-picture-over-saturated-pic/ I'm thinking of getting out the soldering iron tonight and modifying the Woody to bring it closer to what the H6 puts out. I might also replace the output cable in an effort to cut down on the interference static.

Heh, third party PS1 arcade stick. I have classic gaming compilations in my PS1 collection, I won't do that any other way.

$25 at a thrift today, albeit woefully incomplete. #010759, wish I could peel the sticker off and see if it has another serial # under it.

About $30 for this stuff today. Yes, that is a heavy sixer, the weight difference compared to my Woody 4 switch is distinctly noticeable. Sunnyvale #010759.

Try this for the NES console side connector: http://www.parallax.com/Store/Components/Other/tabid/157/CategoryID/32/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/522/Default.aspx

Looks like a cozy backroom in a dive bar that's actually more of a neighborhood hangout than it looks from the front room. I actually kinda like it.

Certainly, from what I've seen, it's usually easier to stop the offending emissions at the source than to try to shield the television receiver from it. Sometimes, moving the unit a few feet can do it. One also has to recognize that all external peripherals for a computer can serve as antennae (via the cable)... and the FCC does class a computer differently when it has an ethernet CAT5 connected compared to when it doesn't (class A versus class B). Two things with my apartment, is that when I moved in, living practically on top of an AM radio station, I had to shove my old external dialup modem into an old hard drive case to make it reliable against the rampant RF in the area, and one of my phones has it in the background during daylight hours. And I've had to move my clock radio a couple of times to give it better reception, something like a foot difference.

Report the offending vendors to Amazon. Sadly, Amazon doesn't have much control over the people that use them as an eBay style reseller, outside of reporting/negative feedback. I personally haven't had trouble with Amazon's vendors on that program, but I also haven't bought anything gaming related that way.

Nice, I haven't seen a SMS at a thrift in years. I passed on one a couple of years ago for some reason and regretted it ever since. I still don't have one today. Well, I would have bought it for myself anyway, but I have a friend who was interested, and I already have a Power Base Converter, so I'm happy knowing it's gone to a good home.

The sticks are modified, essentially. They ape the outward appearance of the old CX-40 design, but the interiors are way different. The changes: Modern carbon dot versus the old metal domes The stick part is a screw in piece of solid plastic, versus the original nylon insert and vinyl cover

One should remember that, even if they corrected the standards for RF emission, part of the job of the metal shield is to not only keep the stray RF generated by the console inside it, but also to protect the console from the effects of stray RF from other devices. It may not prevent the console from functioning, it can make the video anywhere from slightly more fuzzy to unviewable. This is likely a potential concern when the FCC auctions off the bands that were allocated to old television, or low power television stations come online in that space.

I have the same issue with my copy of Berzerk... it won't play in my 7800, or my friend's 7800, but it plays fine in my 2600. So I suspect the cart's going bad. I do have 2600 Donkey Kong, and last I tried it, it worked in my 7800 just fine.

We have PnT here in Denver now, and my experience with that one, and the couple of locations in Colorado Springs I've hit on the roadtrips to hit our Video Game Exchange down there (higher prices, but massive selection!), is that it's a franchise operation like Game Force that we also have. Unfortunately, we've shed a couple of Game Force locations here in the past year, both of them on my side of town. Out of the remaining ones, my preferences are the store in Boulder, and the store in Aurora that's near the Newsland. We also have a few Buy Back Games franchises. I've had poor luck with those, but the one in Arvada appears to have massively improved when they moved. Out of all of these, Game Force and Video Game Exchange appear to be the only ones that routinely carry games prior to the NES.

$20 for a Sega Master System with one controller, in the box at one of the thrifts that normally isn't all that good to me. This is an incredible find at any thrift, though.

I've thought, seriously thought, about getting one of those for myself. Granted, I haven't had any major power supply issues yet, but given that many of my consoles are over a decade old, and in some cases much older, it's only a matter of time before they start blowing out one by one...

The two differences are that you use the keypad to fire the disc, giving independent directional control over firing versus moving. And that you get a chance to 'tap' the drivers of a recognizer that comes over the arena between rounds. One's mileage will vary as to whether or not the independent directionals are a boon or bust with the game, but overall it feels on about the same level.

I use a couple of these in my game area, and another one for videos in the living room. Occasionally Big Lots will put them on sale for $30. That's where I got the last one.

$22.50 for the entire batch today. The Asteroids still had the factory glue on the flap, and the Activision games were all (as near as I could tell) still in the original shrinkwrap. I had to double take to make sure that I was indeed seeing what I was seeing.