[d2f]Iggy*SJB
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Posts posted by [d2f]Iggy*SJB
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WOOHOO!!! It's working again! I did the 9v battery hack from another thread, and it's working like a charm!
Now I get to play some games that aren't on the FB2!! WOOHOO!!!!
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IT'S ALIVE!!!!! IT'S ALIVE!!!!! IT'S AAAAAALLLLLIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIVE!!!!!!! (Insert evil laughter here).
Thanks a BUNCH guys! Works like a charm, now. Once I get a little cash together, I'll buy a new power supply so I won't be going through batteries like they are going out of style.
I did solder it to the board, I figured it'd be the easiest way(doing the plug thing would require finding my multimeter, and then not losing the cable when I get a new PS.)
Thanks again!
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Aside from opening the unit up, is there any way of telling if you have a Rev A or a Rev B?
I'd rather not open it up, if I can avoid it....because if I open it.....there's going to be a cart adapter when I get done with it...........
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Ok, I was thinking about some of the VINTAGE video game stuff I have, and I remembered a t-shirt(or two) that I had in middle school. I remember having a couple of video game shirts...a Pac Man t-shirt(which I'm not sure I'll be able to find, it was white)....but more importantly...a Berzerk t-shirt. I looked on e-bay, and all I could find was a "marquee" t-shirt, that only had the logo. The shirt I have(somewhere), not only has the logo, but also the human shooting at the robots.
This shirt was light blue, with the picture silk-screened on. It is used, and the last time I saw it, it was in pretty good condition(no holes, or major signs of wear....some slight fading of the shirt itself is probable...but it was taken good care of).
Granted, I haven't found it yet...I just gave a cursory look in a couple of possible spots, and more than likely, it was vaccuum packed many years ago. Even without seeing it, does anyone have any idea what a t-shirt like this might be worth? There was a guy I went to Jr. High with, who wrote in my yearbook, "I want that Berzerk shirt!!"
Assuming it still is in good condition, what would you(if you wanted it) pay for it? It's a light blue t-shirt. If I find it, I'll offer it here first.
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Thanks a bunch, guys! I'll let you know how that goes(if it solves the problem or not).
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It's not there. I took some pictures while I had it open, and zooming in(both sides) reveals nothing like what your picture shows.
There was something that looks like a "77" on the control board, I don't know if that means anything to anyone or not. But it's just a lone "77".
On the other side of a "dip" in the tracer on the board. On the other side is the Atari logo, some number, and the Revision letter.
This is on the same side(left) as the power switch, but higher on the board.
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AFAIK, they all had a round connector. If you have an oval one, it's probably just "stepped on". I probably have a spare laying around, but it'll take a couple of days to dig them out and test.
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Far out man! I didn't know they made Knight Rider for the 2600!!!
3 modes....that was cool! Chase the bad guy......get the bad guy in his warehouse.....the get the puzzle pieces to find the boss! That "Savage" team did a lot of "Hardwork" to make such a kick ass game!!
(I couldn't resist, after reading that WHOLE THREAD!)
Seriously though....
I found a couple of cables, so I'm going to try replacing the video cable in the thing, just to see if that might be it. I doubt it, but it's worth a try.
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Do you have one of those televisions with menu selectable inputs? If so, make sure the input for the Atari (antenna?) has been selected instead of AV input or S-Video, etc.I put a coaxle adapter on the end of it, since the TV doesn't have the old "screw on" antena connectors.
Was the game switch box pulled out of storage actually for the Atari? Some of those auto switching boxes for Nintendo and the like do not get activated by the Atari.At least one of them was. I know they were all from around that time, but none from say, an old Nintendo. I know I had bought one or two of them from Radio Shack, and they had worked with it before. Oh, and they all have the "TV/Video Game" switch, which must be slid manually.
What "Ailed" the unit before you took it apart? Did it work at all on the TV with the hardware you describe?Honestly, I don't know. It had been working at one time, then it didn't work, and at the time, I had very little knowledge to open it up and poke around. It did work with the game switch boxes I have, and with the coaxle adapter attached to it. The TV was bought since it stopped working, but I really don't think that would have anything to do with it, as I can plug my 5200 into the same TV(through it's adapter with a coaxle adapter) and it works fine.
Honestly, I wish Atari had put a power LED in the thing....at least I'd know if it was getting power.
Edit: Fixed quote tags
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Why, oh WHY hasn't the Atari Flashback console been done right yet? And by right, I mean every single last effing Atari 2600 game that the powers-that-be still own the licenses for being included on it, since we all know we can now fit all known Atari 2600 games into a microscopic bit of real estate. I also mean every game playing, looking, and sounding EXACTLY like the actual cartridge versions, which, I believe, even the FB2 doesn't quite do (correct me if I'm wrong). I also mean new paddle controllers included; at least they did the right thing with the new CX40 joysticks. A big step up. I also mean a cartridge slot included for compatibility with third-party games that wouldn't be included in the unit proper. But, noooooooooooooo, that seems out of the realm of possibility.40 effing games, for chrissakes? Out of hundreds and hundreds? With no cartridge compatibility, no paddle controls, and not-quite-accurate gameplay? Fuggeddaboudit.
42 games, two BRAND NEW HIGH QUALITY joysticks...plug and play easy, uses a REAL power supply, rather than $5 in batteries every other day.....
All that, PLUS the ability to add your own cartridge slot(Atari gave every effort to make it easy, even for a dimwit).....
for less than $30.
If you don't think that's a deal, you're an idiot.
Oh, and the gameplay is dead on. The actual games(the original code) are in there, not a rip-off "port".
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I think it's great that you are offering this service(even if it IS on hold at the moment). I don't suppose I could talk you into e-mailing me a pic of the battery mod? I'm rather strapped for cash at the moment, but have some 9v hook-ups laying around, and I'm not too bad with a soldering iron. If you've read my other messages posted, my Atari isn't working, and it could be a power supply problem. I'd like to test that theory, but I don't know where to wire it in at.
If not, that's cool. No hard feelings.
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Yes. They are a little beat up, but still very readable.
The middle sticker is from a place I had it repaired at way back when.
I didn't notice anywhere inside the unit that has a "manufacturing date"...I know it was bought for me back in the 70's(we had it before we moved, which was in 1979). I can't remember exactly what year we got it, though.
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Cool beans. Thanks, both of you!
I'll be real happy to do two things.....
get my 2600 working....
and
FINDING MY FREAKING PADDLES!!
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Well, since nothing looks outright wrong inside the 2600, I'm thinking you might be right about the power supply. Soon as I have some extra cash, I'll see if I can pick up a new one and test that theory.
One thing I did notice, as I was putting it back together, is this:
The red box, as noted, is the cartridge pins. The white box above it, is where I noticed something that might be unusual. The bottom of that metal box has cut into the solder on the bottom of the board. I'm not sure if this is causing a problem or not, but I tend not to think so, as the unit did work at one time, and there was nothing in there between them.
Any thoughts on that?
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I pulled it down to the motherboard(wish I had stock in a screw manufacturing company back then...SHEESH!!)....it looks to be in good clean condition(some very light dust, but no corrosion or anything). I took a few pictures while it was apart. I'm just not sure what to do with it, except to put it back together and toss it back in the box at this point. I can tell you that it's a Rev. B, for what that's worth.
The 3 socketed chips are firmly seated.
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I have a (according to others on here) light sixer with the same thing.
On the opposing side, is this:
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I finally worked up the nerve to take my 2600 apart, and see if maybe giving it a good cleaning might help what ails it.
It was dusty inside, so I blew it out and took a few cotton balls with rubbing alcohol to the outter case.
As I removed the control board(where the 'knobs' are)...I noticed that the video cable was very loose in the socket. I blew it out, and before reassembly, made sure it was firm in it's socket(which I cleaned with a q-tip and the aformentioned alcohol).
I put it back together, and went to my drawer where I keep connectors and whatnot, and took out a game switch box, and hooked the whole thing up to my tv.
Nothing.
I played with the channel selector on the underside(labled A/B, for some retarded reason....wouldn't 3/4 make more sence?), still nothing.
I changed game switch boxes(I have about 5 of them)....nothing.
Not a flicker when I turn it on.
To answer a few "stupid" questions before they are asked...
Yes, the TV was on, and set to channel 3.
Yes, the power strip was turned on.
Yes, the adapter was plugged firmly into the TV.
Yes, the power adapter was plugged into the 2600.
No, I wasn't stoned.
I'm going to pull it apart again(partially to look at the inside of the case, to see if what that other user saw is there)...and partially so I can remove the metal housing that contains the MB, and see if IT needs a going over.
Aside from that, does anyone have any ideas?
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The power supply that came with my 2600 buzzes. i can get another one no problem i just need to know what power rating a new supply would need to beThe model number on the bottom of the console says CX-2600 U. There are no voltage details on the console or on the power supply.
thanks guys
Hi there. I had a similar issue, and the answers are this:
Input 120v 60hz 9w
output 9v DC 500 mA
That's directly from my powersupply.
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The 5200 version of Berzerk would be a great asset to it. I know Atari wouldn't be able to put ALL of the games from that list on the unit, but a few would be nice(even just 2 or 3 would work for me)...
I know we really don't have MUCH influence in what will be with the FB3...but I'm sure Curt(and probably some others) are looking to see what we, the people who WILL purchase the unit, have to say and factor in the costs involved, and try to find a middle ground that makes everyone(Atari, and the consumers) happy.
TBH, I'd have little problem justifying $50 for a decently built unit, that has maybe 15-20 quality games(with 1 or 2 well known ones)...and either comes with a cart slot, and optimally an adapter for old carts(Even if I have to buy the adapter separately).
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Once again for those who don't read my blog, I have played 34 games this year and scored over 1,000,000 points. The point total is 1,030,660. I'm very happy I've achieved over a million this year on this very awesome game! It's still January, so hopefully I can get close to the 1.5 million mark before February! I just had to post this cause I'm really excited and happy! (I know alot of you are probably shaking your head at me right now or possibly being very thankful that you aren't me. But I'm doing something I enjoy and that makes me happy, so I guess no matter how weird, it's still cool!)Point total? Are you basicly saying it wasn't in one continuous game? If it was multiple games, added together, then it doesn't count. Once you turn it off, the score goes back to 0.
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OMG! I had forgotten about those Pac-Man cards!! I think I still have some of those around here somewhere!!! What a trip down memory lane!!
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"If Pac-Man doesn't live on Endor....you must aquit!"
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Sorry to dig up an old thread....but I happen to have one of these units.
It was one of a pair that were in a pool hall that burned down. Fortunately, they were in the back room at the time, and suffered no damage. There is a *VERY* light smokey smell(or, more accurately, there was...I haven't put my head in the cabinet in quite a while). Anyhow....the guy who owned them, gave me what he thought was the defective one of the pair. Unfortunately, I didn't learn that I was given the working one, until after I had cut the wires to the tv(yes, it actually WAS a B&W TV in there...with the back removed, and wires soldered to the main board) and tossed it.
Boy, if there is anything I could take back about my life, throwing that TV out would probably be the one. The cabinet is in fantastic shape, as is the motherboard(or, more accurately, what passes for one
).Anyhow....I didn't resurrect this thread to brag....
I'm wondering if anyone on here might know how to wire a new TV into that thing. Any help on this would be most appreciated.
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I see what you mean. It's decent...at least the grfx are good. I gotta admit, the game is hard as $+!+. But, at least it's got a *MAJOR* feature that I love......
PAUSE BUTTON
I love that feature....and I really wish all of the PnP's had this. Well, this, and actually being able to keep high-scores after you turn it off.
All in all, I'd have to agree with you, I did get a deal.
You have to be carefull, though...WalMart is "clearance pricing" stuff...and the Ms.Pac-Man stick with the game-keys is actually $.04 higher clearanced, than it was retail. Can someone explain to me how that one works?
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FB3...
in AtGames Flashback and Portable Consoles
Posted
Well, I don't recall calling you anything, so I don't know how you could be offended...unless you are one of the few who actually DON'T think the FB2 is a deal...
Missile Command is perfect(as the 2600, that is), as are Pitfall, and probably several other games. I didn't play them all yet, but from what I've seen so far, the issues others seem to have don't affect me.
Ok, so what you are basicly saying, is that you aren't happy with 42 games(plus the related hardware) for $30...you'd only be happy with 150 games for $60.
You know, if you're so hard up to have Space Invaders, you could always buy a 2600 and Space Invaders off of E-Bay....although I doubt you'll get the both for under $30....
Well, I don't fully disagree with you on the cart slot, but I understand their logic as well. It would result(as several people pointed out) with people flooding their help lines about carts that don't work. "But I just bought it! It should work!", "Sir, you bought it used....and it's 20 years old...contact who you bought it from." I mean, come on, what do you expect? Ok, maybe you can't do the cart hack yourself...chances are, you can find someone to do it for you. Although, it's easy enough to do, unless you aren't even smart enough to know which end of the soldering iron to hold.
Chances are, you're not that stupid.
You also forget to factor in something else...Atari probably isn't making a whole hell of a lot of money off of this project. Plug and Plays are popular right now, but the market won't last forever. In 5 years, you probably won't even be able to give them away. It's a niche market, at best. I think they did good with this one, and you are correct about the paddles...they should have been included(of course, this would have bumped the price up a little, but so be it). Maybe the FB3 will have them....maybe they weren't cost effective, considering you are already getting 42 games, 2 NICE joysticks(which are of a higher quality than most of the ones made back in the day.....I've got about 10 different brands of them, and only the Tac-2 is similar in construction.)
You just came off a bit strong about it...then again, I did too in my reply to you. I still stand by what I say...the FB2 is a nice piece of hardware, and well worth $30. Ok, it doesn't have ALL the games, but with a little patience, and some work, you can not only have all the games you want, but be able to play them on new hardware. From the pics Curt posted, the hack looks very easy(if a bit time consuming)....and does it REALLY matter if it looks good? I prefer functionality over aesthetics. Right now, my 2600 has a 9volt connector hanging out the back of it. It works again, so I really don't care.