TheBman80

Well after messing with it a little more I found that the one mylar capacitor at location C306 .0047 was bad. Of course it was one of the 3 I decided not to replace because they looked fine. I was pressing on chips while the Vectrex was running and my finger hit that one cap and the screen went normal for a minute so after I replaced it everything is almost there. My next problem and hopefully last is the alignment is totally fubar I have tried everything to get this to work with directions online and what not to no avail. I really wouldn't be surprised with everything else that was messed up on this thing that the guy before me was screwing with the yoke or something as well. But amazing all the text looks perfect.

Ok I made some headway and still hit another road block. I found what was causing the lettering to be all screwed up it was a broken pin in the molex connector of the yellow wire on the power PCB. I also found a broken pin in the molex connector of the blue wire on the power PCB. The blue wire didn't seem to do much when I fixed it. I noticed that the E's and T's are missing parts of the letters. Plus there are no vector lines what so ever even when you turn the brightness up well they appear but really faint. Everything is just dots with out the connecting lines.

Just did the cap kit and still hasn't fixed the issue. I just ordered all the IC chips in the vector control section I'm not messing around with this anymore. At the very least I will have some extra chips so if I feel like buying another Vectrex then I will have all the parts ready to go.

Not to bad just trying to get rid of the extra clutter. Took a very long arcade collecting hiatus lol. I was actually surprised my account was still active since I haven't used it in so long. I added prices.

I have 2 cleaned tested working NES systems (one is yellowed a little with a mark were a sticker use to be) Plus 2 zappers also tested and working. No controllers or power supplies for them and I have a small stack of NES games. For some reason both NES systems have chips in the plastic on the left front where the white meets the grey. If I get $55 each for the NES Consoles I will toss in a copy of Super Mario duck hunt for each and will toss in Kung Fu for the first one sold and Sesame street 123 for the 2nd plus a zapper each. Super Mario duck hunt X3 $6 ea Super Mario 3 $10 Top Gun X4 $6 Punchout (Not Mike Tyson just regular) $10 Kung Fu (Label a little jacked) $4 Sesame street 123 (Label very jacked) make offer TMNT X2 (Just the first TMNT game not arcade version) $6 ea If someone wants to trade NES games I might do that. I also have 4 blue plastic NES game boxes. Make offer

Well I did the cold Solder joints no real change brightness adjusts a little better. I think I'm going to recap it next and see what i come up with.

Yeah I did adjust the brightness knob just goes from totally black to this. I'm thinking about going over it for cold solder joints. I had a Battle Zone one time that had similar symptoms with the monitor and cold solder joints were the cause. Maybe I will get some time and will go over the monitor video PCB first and see where that gets me.

Well I got it a few weeks back but I was able to work on it a little and get it working somewhat today. The 6522 was bad and it took a few weeks for my order to come in from china. Once I installed the new 6522 the game system came to life but everything is VERY faint and you can see all the vector lines. You can play the game but all text is unreadable any ideas? I played with basically all the adjustment knobs and didn't get anywhere.

Holey crap you are the only other person I know of on these chats that has any idea what Granite Run mall is LOL. I would totally agree it was the best Aladdin's Castle of all times LOL. That was basically the only arcade I ever really went to and the one that started me collecting arcade games just trying to recreate a small fraction of what that place was like is nearly impossible but I'm still trying. Wouldn't happen to have any pictures of the place? I have been trying to locate a few snapshots of that arcade for a while now. I think I might have one or 2 but I have no Idea were they got to. I have to say I was heart broken once they closed their doors I really have no Idea exactly when it happened. I totally avoid the mall altogether, for fear of ruining the fond memories there. I drive past maybe once a year and just look, smile then keep driving by. I haven't seen anything on the GRMall's Aladdin's Castle, but if you remember Spaceport in the K.O.P. Mall, there's a few videos from back in the day on youtube. Also, if you get up to Reading at all, there's a neat little arcade in the Berkshire Mall - lots of classics there! Yeah cool I’ll have to check it out your not missing much in the G-run mall now there is one crappy little arcade with your typical games for this day and age way too small to be even worth checking out.

Holey crap you are the only other person I know of on these chats that has any idea what Granite Run mall is LOL. I would totally agree it was the best Aladdin's Castle of all times LOL. That was basically the only arcade I ever really went to and the one that started me collecting arcade games just trying to recreate a small fraction of what that place was like is nearly impossible but I'm still trying. Wouldn't happen to have any pictures of the place? I have been trying to locate a few snapshots of that arcade for a while now. I think I might have one or 2 but I have no Idea were they got to. I have to say I was heart broken once they closed their doors I really have no Idea exactly when it happened.

Yeah I did check over there searched just about put every different combo of Mario graphics issue I could think of I did find like 2 posts that had the same exact issue but neither had any responses and I think they were really old. So far I have resolder every Eprom chip socket on the PCB and hit a bunch of questionable solders on the PCB it did seem to run a little better like on boot up but really I think it was minimal at best. Sorry should have mentioned I did that before.

Maybe someone in here can help I have been looking all over to the solution to this problem so far I have only came up with a RAM issue on the Video portion of the Mario board or a -5v issue. Checked my voltages today in my widebody and I have perfect -5v and all the other voltages are good as well +5v is like 4.9v and the 12V is like 11.9v so I think I can rule out any voltage issues. Basically the game totally works coins up plays got into test mode all ROM's check out ok in self test. Now if there is bad RAM on the video board could anyone narrow down the area that might be at fault on the side of the PCB? I have no Idea which chips are the RAM chips so even that information alone could help. I haven't got a logic probe so I can already say that option is out also have no idea how to use one. Is the RAM for this game expensive? I could just use the shotgun approach and start pulling and socketing chips until I find a bad one. Then just put the old chips back in if they work and do that one by one till I get a result but I would really like to get some ideas before I mess with that. So far I haven't been able to get very much help on this at all from anyone.

I have been going to one in Cherry Hill for a few years but it has got really bad lately not really anything worth getting but occasionally something good surfaces but everything always needs a complete overhaul.

Neat I don't have a G07 monitor but I have 19v2000 monitors in an Asteroids Deluxe and a Battlezone. I think vectors are really fun a very unique gaming experience that MAME really cant duplicate fully.

you can go with these sets. You can open just about anything. There are several sellers on ebay. so find the best deal. http://cgi.ebay.com/101-pc-SECURITY-BITS-T...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/33-PCS-SECURITY-BIT-SE...1QQcmdZViewItem Yeah figures I bought them at Sears paid more and got half as much as that I had to use them for my After Burner upright.