Jump to content
Have You Played Atari Today?
2600|5200|7800|Lynx|Jaguar|Forums|Store  

TheBman80

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    234

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by TheBman80

  1. Posted

    There really is no limit to how big you can go with it al long as you have the two most important things the room and the money to do it. If you really wanted to you could search ebay and buy one of thoes huge 55" arcade tv's and have a control pannel station set up like 6 feet away from it. They usually go cheap because no one wants them because there too big to handel. But you could go 25" to like 33" in a wood cabinet again its all about how much money you have a 33" is going to cost several hundred to buy and like the same price to ship. Heres a good priced place to buy 19" monitors http://www.genao.com/parts.htm I haven't used them yet but their stuff looks good.

  3. Posted

    ok months of waiting and frustration have finally yielded in a result I now have probably the only measurements of a pong cab in existence on the web. As soon as I can redraw the plans so they are a little more readable I will post them for all to see. Wow this was a pain in the ass!! :D

  6. Posted

    It's really amazing that the only popular games are shooting, raceing, and sport games honestly I hate all these types of arcade games. There boring no matter what you do to them there all the same just shooting or driveing something different. I have always hated sports games even on home consoles I would rather go out and play the sport than sit and play a meaningless sport game thats outdated in a few months. I really don't think it's just the people that are not playing diferent games anymore It's the fact that no one has any imagination about game makeing anymore. They hit the street Fighter ERA and never bothered to do anything else I think It was the invention of fighting games like Street Fighter, Motral Combat, Ect. that ruined arcades. You could get these games at home then no longer needed to leave the house. I think if they kept making creative games that couldn't be reproduced at home Arcade would have still been around today. But thats just my two cents.

  7. Posted

    Turns out that something must over heat and cause to monitor CRT to turn off I pluged it in today and the CRT neck glowed again I didn't leave it on long enough for it to short out again. Right now I'm stuck no information on this thing at all and the only thing I could think of doing is takeing it to a TV repair shop to have it looked over. It would be a shame not to get this think working it would make a great MAME cab monitor I mean a 27" MAME would be great and it already has all the mounting brackets. If worse came to worse maybe I could get a 27" arcade tube and boards and mount them in the frame.

  8. Posted

    Well I just tryed the S-Vhs connection on the back of the monitor with a laptop with a S-Video on it got nothing but as we had it hooked up on the back of the monitor tube was lit up then it went dark. This was after being on for a while and the S-Video was hooked up when we turned it on so now ethier a fuse blew or something elese went bad but when I turn the monitor on and off I still see a faint brightness fade out on the monitor. So im hopeing the HV is still good just something elese that brings power to the back of the tube to the electron gun went bad I hope. I dont see any fuses though right off the bat I just hope the company has a manual so I dont have to take the entire thing apart.

  9. Posted

    Yeah I thought It would be able to handle Mame but the problem is the RGB port on the back of the monitor is like a computer connection cable (see my pictures). I have no Idea weather it would have a standard computer hookup or not without knowing the pin config of the holes in the connection. I wrote 2 places about the monitor one was a place that sold Hantarex arcade monitors the other was the actual company link you sent me the one guy who sells them turned up nada so im still waiting to hear from the company. As for the size yeah its freaking huge I measured 27" diagonal across the tube It would be great for MAME. Do you think if I just hooked up my computer monitor out to this monitor's RGB computer looking hook up do you think would it work I guess I would have to find a cable to find out. It wouldnt hurt the monitor any if the pin config was different would it? It prob just wouldnt work.

  10. Posted · Edited by TheBman80

    I think there is only one word for this AWESOME!!! Not only will it save you a huge amount of money in the long run there virtually indestructible and no more winpy ass click click click. There even built better than the old ones who said simple wasnt better. I have had lots of thoes micro-switches crap out on me I can't wait to buy these things I'll replace them in all my games and never have to worry about that micro-switch failing at the rong time ever again. It's like the good old days of Arcade playing are back again.

     

    Oh yeah Osbo you could sell your micro-switches on ebay and easily be able to buy these for your MAME.

  11. Posted

    sure, no problem.

     

    man if I have to do this again, I would try to find a leaf joystick and leaf pushbuttons, the clicky clacky gets old pretty quickly.

     

    I think you get a little better reaction time out of the newer ones I was getting really pissed at my Asteroids Deluxe fireing button so I just replaced it with a newer one I had lying around but of course I would never get rid of the old button I have it in the coin box. I just might put it back on the game soon but you are right the new buttons are totally different in the way they feel and sound. And the old ones basicly never break because its just 2 contacts being pushed together unlike the new complicated mechs. in the new buttons.

  12. Posted

    If anyone can help me out with this at all please do. What I have here is a Hantarex monitor I bought months back at an arcade auction for like $20. Can this monitor be used in an arcade game? I have been unable to find any information at all about this thing. I have posted some pictures to help with this process and I was also able to plug the thing in and turn it on and it seemed to work. The one picture I posted has all the controls on the back of the monitor what I really need is the pin config of the RGB jack on the back there but it has several other ways to hook stuff up to it. What I would like to use this thing for is a mame cabinet. Model number MTC28 USA 02192850 serial number 00229.

     

     

    post-8610-1154570203_thumb.jpg post-8610-1154570222_thumb.jpg post-8610-1154570267_thumb.jpg post-8610-1154570294_thumb.jpg post-8610-1154570317_thumb.jpg

  13. Posted

    If you end up ordering a 19" monitor from them let me know how you make out I would like to know how good their monitors are. I have at least 3 games that I would just rather replace for that price than even bothering with the recaping process (they have really burnt up screens).

  14. Posted · Edited by TheBman80

    Well I can help you out with the arcade monitor part here is a place that sells them really cheap. They deal with 8-liner games but I'm fairly sure they use the same exact type of monitors that any standard arcade game uses. http://www.genao.com/parts.htm They start at like $189 for 19in monitors or $110 for a refurbished one. I found it on the web page they can be used on arcade games.

  15. Posted

    Today I finally got my Berzerk game to work! And let me tell you.....it is freaking FANTASTIC.

    Now how do I go about rigging it so I don't have to use quarters?

     

    -Tim

     

    Well if you have a manual for the game you could look up the dip switch setting and set it to free play. This would be the easiest thing to do next to doing some soldering and rewiring and adding some credit switches.

  16. Posted

    Iggy*SJB' date='Tue Jul 4, 2006 9:37 PM' post='1095734']

    site1088.jpg

    Last one didn't go through

     

    Yeah just as I thought it’s basically the same exact part I replaced in After Burner. The ones I put in After burner had like a 2 Inch long shaft but its aluminum wouldn’t be that hard to cut or drill to make it look like that. Not sure of the OHM rating of it but I got a Radio Shack brand one Linear-Taper Potentiometer 5K-OHM that’s the part I used part number 271-1714. here is a link to their web page there is a ton of different ones just look at the Ohm rating and match it up http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp...w=potentiometer there like $3.00 at the very most. I will eventually post those pic's on my eBay chat group I added a whole bunch of stuff to the page its looking really good. Right now I don’t have the time to post them just need to get some projects done while this F'ing rain has finally stopped here. I'm in the process of repainting a Neo Geo so I can get rid of the thing and make some space 100% humidity makes painting a pain in the ass to do.

  18. Posted

    I'm really sorry to hear what your going through dealing with stuff like that is just really overwhelming sometimes. I had the same thing happen to a relative of mine about 2 years ago. I wish you all the best. Once you get time you should post a picture of the part in question the pot itself. I replaced a bunch of these in my After Burner cabs they work great now the things should be really cheap like $2 or $3 each I got mine at radio shack.

  19. Posted

    Iggy*SJB' date='Sun Jun 25, 2006 10:25 AM' post='1089809']

    I could send you pics of my Lunar Lander and Paddle Battle machines, if they would help.

     

     

    Yeah definitely I'm still waiting to get control of the group though the guy sent me all the stuff and I had to forward it to some eBay administrator and they have done nothing yet. It has been like 4 days now. Probably one of those people that does like nothing or just got sick of taking care of that stuff anyway ill contact eBay directly soon to see if I can get it resolved.

  20. Posted

    Trust me I know I made the dumbass mistake of putting my hand near the tube in my Asteroids Deluxe while it was on I lost the picture and there was a line on the screen I was jiggling wires looking for a loose connection then I got a huge ark through the back of my hand from the CRT didn’t hurt more than static electricity charge like you get from the carpet but scared the shit out of me. There was a huge bluish white flash my friends were in the front of the cab they were all freaked out man are you still alive I was like yeah I'm still here. Then the funny thing was that’s how we found out what was wrong with the cab they were like whatever you just did the screen flashed on normal for like 1 second. So we found out no power was going to the vector circuitry so I jiggled the wires connected on the chassis transistors and the screen came pack on. (Yes I didn’t learn from the first shock) But needless to say the wire on one of the 2n37 transistors was loose so we soldered it and the game has worked fine ever since. I now put my hands no were near the insides of live monitors. Live and learn I guess.

  21. Posted

    Hey its been a while since you last posted this did you fix your Berzerk cab yet? Funny thing about that game did you ever look it up on the KLOV web page suposusly thats the first game that they blamed for killing some one well not just one person but 2 people thats freaking crazy. I can't say many games have that reputation.

     

    KLOV Trivia:

     

    Berzerk shares a rather chilling distinction of being the first known game to be blamed for an actual player's death. In January 1981, Jeff Dailey, a 19-year old Berzerk player, died of a massive heart attack right after playing his favorite game. His score was 16,660 (a very respectable score but disturbing for obvious reasons). On an equally distressing note, in October 1982, 18-year old Peter Burkowski, a physically healthy person who was alcohol-free and drug-free, inscribed his initials in Berzerk's top ten list twice in a matter of only fifteen minutes. A few seconds after that, he collapsed and died of a heart attack as well.

     

    Better watch yourself with this one once you get it working!

  22. Posted

    Well I found this interesting group on eBay didn't even know that it existed at all. I noticed that it wasn’t very built up just your basic eBay chat no pictures or anything like the eBay video game central. So I emailed the group host about the group and suggested he add background pictures and stuff like that to make the area more interesting and get people to post more on it. He emails me back and says that he basically forgot about it entirely and wants to know if I want to host it now. I think I'm going to agree to do it any ideas on what I should add to it. Or does anyone have pictures to contribute to this new project. There are photo galleries and what not so anything pertaining to arcade games would be acceptable. I think this is kind of neat like a clean slate just waiting to be used. :D

  23. Posted · Edited by TheBman80

    Then I'm not exactly sure what happened then 3 kits ended up costing me $35 unless he charged me like $8 a kit and $11 shipping. Or he just estimated it to me over the phone wrong. Who knows as long as I get my kits and my games work right I really don't care.

  24. Posted

    Well I called Zanen Electronics and ordered 3 kits cost like $35 I think that’s because he didn’t include the power transistors in the kit, I made sure to get thoes. I asked him about the specs of the 2n3716 and 2n3792 Transistors he said he would have to look it up but took no real interest in doing so. So if anyone can tell me a good place that’s cheap to order them in bulk I'm open to suggestions. Now I just have to get my hands on an 80k-40 high voltage probe so I can de-energize the high voltage in the tube. I would rather not go the cheap way out with the screwdriver and resistor I feel a little safer using the proper tools when it comes to this much voltage. When I get a few extra $$ I will get some Big Blue caps as well. I think I’m going to get good at this I have Battle Zone, Asteroids Deluxe, and an extra spare board set to do.

  25. Posted

    Does anyone know the full spec's on the 2n3792 and the 2n3716 transistors for the vector monitors? I want to order some in bulk and sometimes I see multiple types of 2n3792 and 2n3716's and I have no idea which ones are the right ones to order. Some have extra numbers after the 2n3792 and 2n3716’s serial numbers I have some original ones I got with a board lot off eBay and there made in Italy the 92's have 8027 after Italy then the whole serial under that so it’s like this Italy 8027 then 2n3792 right underneath that the 16's have 8040 after Italy. I'm probably just confusing myself but what exactly should I look for? The original WG manual sucks just says 2n3716 or 2n3792 no specifics on what the parts specs are. I just don’t want to order the wrong part and be stuck with 30 things I could never use for anything. Here is a picture so you have a better idea of what I was talking about.

     

    post-8610-1150693799_thumb.jpg

AtariAge
Forums
Store
General
Follow AtariAge

Copyright ©1998-2021 AtariAge

×
×
  • Create New...