tta583
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Posts posted by tta583
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Hi All,
Long time member but, admittedly, I have not posted here in ages. A few years back I transitioned over to video arcades then, eventually, started to add pinball. That said, I do still have my Atari collection so my roots are solid.
Fast Forward a few years and I am co-host of The Brokentoken Classic Arcade and Pinball Podcast.
At a recent show, The Louisville Arcade Expo, we had the opportunity to record a seminar hosted by Activision co-founder David Crane. My co-host Whitney is also an Atari console collector and huge Activision fan so, despite not being “arcade” it was still a no brainer to capture the seminar, and a 1 on 1 interview, for the show.
Hopefully everyone will enjoy them! Mr Crane tells some interesting stories, talks behind the scenes of Activision, and gives us a look into how the awesome Activison catalog was created/coded.
YouTube Video of the seminar. We had a sound feed right out of the PA so the sound is excellent.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fr-t9plOkHY&feature=youtu.be
Audio only version of the David Crane Seminar.
http://www.brokentoken.com/podcast-episodes/episode-28the-internal-magic-of-the-atari-2600/
Post Seminar interview with Mr. Crane.
http://www.brokentoken.com/interviews/episode-29-1to1-with-david-crane/
Brent
The Brokentoken Classic Arcade and Pinball Podcast.https://www.facebook.com/brokentoken
Podcast voicemail line – 470-2CALLBT / 470-222-5528-
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I lurk here from time to time as my collection shifted to arcades years ago. Yes, I still have my Atari stuff, and a lot of Atari arcades. I mainly post at KLOV. Feel free to Google my ID against the KLOV forums for some history.
Anyone here cross over to Nintendo?
I have picked up, as part of my arcade travels, some NOS RC2C03B PPUs. These are the PPUs needed to mod an NES for RGB.
I have tested these in a Nintendo VS cabinet with a VS Tennis chip set to assure all works as expected.
Attached are a couple of pictures. 3 chips are pictured but I do have a few more
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$170 each shipped in the continental US. $165 each for 2 or more.
I have tested these in my VS cabinet to assure they are working as intended before shipping. I, however, will not guarantee them. I am sure everyone understands that if you damage them as part of modding your NES, or if you simply plug them in backwards in a VS or PlayChoice board, the damage done to the part is out of my control.
Thanks,
brent
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Shoot... I was just up in Bowling Green picking up a boxed NES last night. If I'd known you had this for offer, I might've driven the extra bit to pick it up.
So close!!!
I still have it. Sitting there looking all lonely like!!!! Someone come and take it!!
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I have a interesting Sony console TV to give away for free to someone who wants it. It was given to me by someone thinking it would be a good tube and parts donor for my arcades. Well, not much in a Sony is compatible with arcade monitors so I can not use it as a donor. Normally I would cart TV's I can not use of to recycling but this thing has a pretty unique look and appeal to it. I am guessing Sony was trying to go futuristic with it back in the day when compared to typical wood grain sets. It would make a cool TV for a console collector to display and play their collection on. Good sized tube, but not in a huge console cabinet. I considered keeping it to run a 2600 on but my game room has shifted to videos and pinballs. I have not hooked up anything to it but it powers up and the tube comes to life fast.
Free to whoever will give it a good home. You must pick it up in Louisville Ky!!! For those local who may have seen it I did post it on CL for a few bucks. Again, its FREE!!! Seems like stuff posted as Free on CL turns in to a mess so I try to put a couple of bucks on anything anymore to cut down on the hassle.
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In answering some questions I hooked up the 500 and snapped a pic of it running. It did have some errors when it came up in that it looked like it was trying to find some devices. The stack of floppies and the CD ROM were sill in a box. I just wanted to get it booted.
While pulling out cables I did discover a second mouse (one is a Commodore, the other a generic) as well as a spare Sony CD-ROM drive in an anti-static bag buried in the bottom of the loose HW box.
The monitor is not included in the lot! It's my test bench monitor.
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Not posted in a long time. I still have all of my Atari stuff, actually picked up more. The last few years I have shifted to arcade so I have been hanging out on KLOV.
Anyway, I am re-organizing and thinning out as I put things away after a move. I have a rather large collection of Amiga hardware and Software that is a bit outside the scope of my collections. So, while it's all out and accessible I thought I would shop it around a bit. Here are the high points:
Amiga 500.
Amiga 2000 with internal 5 1/4 and 3 1/2 floppy drives.
Sharp JX-100 Scanner.
DC TV From Digital Creations.
Bodega Bay External Storage and Bus expander for the Amiga 500.
The 500 has (in the Bodega Bay ) a DataFlyer Plus card providing SCSI and IDE support as well as an attached hard drive.
The 500 has (in the Bodega Bay ) a DataFlyer RAM card with (I believe) 4 MEG of RAM.
2 x External 3 1/2" floppy drives and cable.
External SCSI CD ROM drive.
A box full of the CD shuttles for the CD ROM drive.
Commodore Mouse and keyboard.
Commodore branded Speakers.
Cases of manuals.
Software. Cases and cases, boxes and boxes of software. I can not describe the amount of software. Cases of stacked flip files full of floppies. Boxes of loose floppies.
I want it all to go as a lot. I am not interested in parting it out. As there is so much it would be for pickup. Speaking of pickup, you may need one..or a decent sized car. I am located in Louisville, Ky.
Price wise I am open. I am not looking to give it away by any means but I am not looking for top dollar. A trade is always acceptable...especially if it's arcade related.
If you have any questions I would suggest an e-mail as I don't check here but every few months. cllouisville at gmail dot com.
brent
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Auctions, as stated can be a total mess. Like eBay but in person. Shill bidders, non-auction affiliated idiots off the street driving the price of junk into the stratosphere, limited inspections (games are typically to close together to see the sides, some auctions prevent access to the back of the cab let alone seeing in the back door), and on and on. Don't get me wrong, deals can be found but I almost wonder if, at times, its worth the hassle. Most of the deals I cross are projects (read as dead or missing parts) or just off the wall games I like for which no others care.
Have you hit the Message Boards over at http://www.klov.com? There are several folks there up your way. The vast majority of people there, as a whole, don't subscribe to the "everything is rare and, thus, high dollar" mentality. Good place to go for games, references, repair help, parts, etc.
Looking for anything in particular, BTW?
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I think it's neat that the game supports both right and left handed people by having a jump button on either side of the joystick. Not many games have that nowadays!
Well, I think its kind of cool...but to be honest I kind of feel like it is saying "New car!!! Wow with a steering wheel!!!" Kind of a cheesy selling point.
I guess I am kind of sensitive to it so I mention it. I am a righty but several in my family are not. I just made up a multi game for my parents house (mom loves pac plus all the nieces, nephews and cousins are always there). Dad is a lefty as are some of the kids. As such I had to remake the CP from scratch (as opposed to being able to use one of the several I had that fit the cab) with mirrored buttons so that everyone could play and not feel frustrated. I know how hard it was for me to try and play an original DK with the joy on the left and the single jump button on the right.
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Arcade game in a full size upright cabinet with a freshly rebuilt Wells Gardner monitor.
The game is Crazy Kong. It is not a bootleg of Donkey Kong. Crazy Kong is the licensed version of Donkey Kong for non-us markets produced by Falcon. Falcon logos are on the game board and ROMs. The game plays just like Donkey Kong save that it has some slightly different sounds in a few places and is (supposedly) a bit harder. I can not comment on the differences in difficulty as I was never much of a Donkey Kong player until I got this game so I have no firm basis for comparison. More general information can be found in the KLOV entry:
http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=&game_id=7430
As to this specific game. Please take a minute to view the linked pictures.
Front
http://www.goattraks.com/tta583/forsale/crazykong/front.jpg
Right Side
http://www.goattraks.com/tta583/forsale/cr...ong/rt-side.jpg
Left Side
http://www.goattraks.com/tta583/forsale/cr...ong/lt-side.jpg
Back
http://www.goattraks.com/tta583/forsale/crazykong/back1.jpg
The game is in a clean upright cabinet with wood grain veneer. Other than some minor wear there is a VERY small chip just above the kick panel on the front of the game. There is also a few inch long but narrow chip at the very bottom of the right side. Both are visible in the pictures below. I have installed quality 2" rubber casters (back 2 fixed, front 2 swivel with a lock) to make moving the game easier.
As you can see in the pictures the game is very solid and clean inside and out.
The game has a nicely made arcade quality silk screened control panel overlay and marquee. Both are in excellent shape. These are not home or hastily made pieces.
All of the controls work with no problems. The game had a jump button installed to the left and right of the joystick to make it easy for either a right or left handed person to play.
The game uses a vertical Wells Gardner 19K4600 monitor. I rebuilt this monitor this last summer with a Bob Roberts cap kit. The 4600 monitors also tend to have cold/bad solder joints at the headers where the 3 vertical cards plug into the main monitor chassis. During the rebuild I unsoldered, cleaned, and resoldered all of these joints. The monitor is clean and bright and should run for years to come before needing any other maintenance. The game is running in the linked pictures so that you can see the monitor. I can send you hi-res versions of these pictures should you want a better look.
The coin door does have a "free play" button installed between the coin slots. The hole is very small. If you do not want a free play button I can give you a spare pan head carriage bolt to put in the hole as a cover. I can tie up the button inside the cabinet or remove it all together if you like. Please note that the game does not have coin mechanisms installed (coin mechs) so it will not run on quarters or tokens. The free play button is used to add a credit. All of the necessary hardware, mounts, wiring, and coin switches are there, just no mechs. The coin door and mech hardware are all "standard" arcade pieces so standard mechs can be had from any arcade supplier should you want to operate the game on quarters or tokens. If you want I can sell you a spare set from one of my other games for a nominal fee (I run free play in my collection so I don't necessarily need them.)
The game is 100% working and ready to go. It has been moved from my basement arcade to the first floor so that it can go right out the front door. The only thing it might need (if you just want then, its not necessary) would be a set (2) of locks. These can be had at Home Depot for about $4 a lock. I have an appliance dolly and a truck so I may be able to assist with a reasonably close delivery for a small cost to cover fuel and time (I'm cheep!!)
Asking $550 obo. I am in the Louisville, Ky area. I would prefer local pickup. I can work with a buyer to ship if interested but would like to avoid doing so as I have no control as to what happens from my door to yours.
If interested please e-mail me as its just the easiest way to get me. I read a lot of forums but don't necessarily log in so I miss PM's from time to time.
publicbrent (at) gmail.com
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Is it just a board mounted in that space? In mine it is just sort of flopping around in the floor of the cab. To be honest I have not worked on it yet so I am not sure where it mounts.
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I have a SI cocktail. Its not a II like yours but with the top up they look the same (from my memory). Anyway. Yes, that thing to the right would be the ISO. On mine there is a board in the floor of the cab, directly below the monitor tube, that is the actual power supply.
I think you all have that all figured out. Hope I am not duplicating something above. I will admit as the post rolled on I was reading quickly.
Anyway, my PS is toast as well. I have not fixed it yet, however. I was thinking of converting to a switcher. Check these out:
Midway Space Invaders Switching Power Supply Conversion Kit
http://www.elektronforge.com/products.htm
Take a look at the pinout links. There is some info on what voltages are needed where plus insight as to how to add your own switcher.
http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/manualsinvaders.html
Keep in mind I have not tried either method. To be honest when I get to it I will probably make my own conversion up using the second link.
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This may be a little overkill but would do the trick:
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/jammaext.gif
3' Jamma Extension harness $30.00
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I would check out Bob Roberts
sure email ordering and money orders are kind of a pain, but he's got great personal service and good prices.
I vote Bob as well. He sells Happ parts for less than you can get them for off of the Happ site.
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Should also add....
2 Pac Man boards. They are not completely populated. Most of the socketed IC's are gone. If you were going to build a Multi-pac, this would be a good start for one. Untested, assume not working/needs work, 20 bucks for the pair.
Also have an Atari Flyball PCB. 10 bucks on it. Never tested, again assume it needs work.
Nintendo Monitor isolation transformer. 100V output for the Nintendo monitors and lighting. Not easy to find spare. This one has two plugs as it was in a Punch Out. Great for a test bench or whatever. Free, but you have to pay shipping and its fairly heavy.
Does anyone want coin door bars? As a collector, I removed a ton of them. I used them on all my games I had on location. Now that I sold my business I have a few left over. PM me if you need them.
PM Sent
Brent
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Not right off my head. That Op Amp could be used for a number of things I guess. I would pull the board and trace the speaker pins from the finger board back and see where you end up.
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Well, as a pure guess I would try to find the audio amp section on the game board and give it the once over. There "should" be a transistor or 2 that are used as the amp. I would test those first with a meter. As a quick test I have heard of folks that, with the board on, touch the pins of these transistors on the solder side of the board. Supposedly if you and get a little scratchy "pop" out of the speakers then you need to look at replacing the transistor. As I understand it you finger is acting as a conductor to cross a little current over to the emitter of the transistor which then makes its way to the speaker to produce the "scratch".
Here is a link to the KLOV article on that game. The Operations and Maintenance Manual is linked at the very bottom. I did not look at it but it may have the schematics.
http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=&game_id=8217
You might want to check http://www.crazykong.com/ as well to see if they have any other manuals.
bombjack.org is a great place for manuals as well.
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I asked just about the same thing over at the KLOV.com forums not to long ago. Here is the link to my post. Hopefully some of the links in the responses will help.
http://forums.webmagic.com/ubbthreads/show...h=true#Post3392
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I have not built one but I would suggest you go over to arcadecontrols.com. They sort of specialize in doing what you are looking to do. Specialize in that is what they discuss and document. I don't think they actually sell much if anything at all. The forum is great. There are sections on every topic you are asking about.
This may be of use as well when it comes to hooking up the controls. It is supposed to be the "thing" to use. I have a buddy that has one and loves it.
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I dont think hardware can go for media mail
Probably not as it is not media.
so shipping would probably be like 40 to 50 bucks if its a computer and monitor and drive.
No monitor. I did not mention a monitor above but I can see that as a point of confusion.
Kentucky? People actually live there?
Yes, people live there. Lots of people. We're lousy with people...they are all over the place, everywhere you look. After traveling many places in the US and beyond I could not imagine why anyone would live any where else...other than in the Caribbean.
The items have been spoken for. I worked it out with 2 folks who wanted specific parts and, thus, split up the 3 pieces. Some if it is going out West, some is going up north.
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Here is a thought. The pin out is straight forward...documented EVERYWHERE. Run up to good old radio shack and get a DB-9 Male, DB-9 female, and some small wire, say 20ga to make it easier to work with. Wire an adapter. For the directions its easy...swap up and down, left and right. If you want to trade the buttons left to right just cross them through the adapter. When you want it plug it in line, when you don't just take it out. I bet soldering wires to some solder cup DB-9 connectors would be a lot easier than messing around inside the controller wither the wire is probably thinner and cut to length for its final location. Plus you don't mess up the joy pad with a more or less permanent mod.
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Humm, hard to say. It's kind'a heavy. I have had 19" arcade monitors shipped in the 30ish range and they are WAY heavier but I dare not guess. Where to? If you want just PM me with a zip. I have it in the trunk of my car. I can pack it up at work tomorrow (need to do it regardless) and try and figure it out.
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Anyone out there mess with old Apple HW? I ended up with a II Plus and a matching 5 1/4 floppy drive out of a lot with some Commodore hardware that I wanted. I have no idea if the thing works. Visually the only problem is the key to the right of 0 (zero) is missing. The only cable that came with it was the ribbon cable attaching the drive to the unit. I did get a matching monitor bridge that will go with the II plus and the drive. It may have some kind of memory expansion in it as there is a label on the space bar that says 48K (that is from memory, its not in front of me right now).
I have no use for it and know of no one local that collects. I figure someone out there could use is so I would prefer to offer it as opposed to letting it sit on my shelf or just giving it to the Salvation Army.
Cost?? How is $10 plus actual shipping to your address? $10 for the trouble boxing it, taking it for a postage check, then taking it back to ship. If you are local then just come get it for free!!! (A firm hand shake and a "thanks pal" would also be cool.) If shipping then Postal or Western Union Money Order only. No PayPal, credit cards, checks, puppies, magic tokens, etc..... I do mess with arcades so I would consider arcade parts even if I had to kick in some $$$
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Sounds great, glad it helped!!
Couple of things. I could be WAY wrong here but I thought PP2 was a conversion on a PP1. I don’t know if there were every any dedicated PP2 machines. Even if they were it looks like both used the same board sets, and thus the same satellite boards such as the AR2 and probably same power supply. Hay, if you already had it working why re-engineer?? Looks like the games are 1 year apart so I bet that was not enough time to figure out that things failed and just might have benefited from a rework.
http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=&game_id=9064
What does that mean to you? Well, I would thing any PP fixes would apply. Given all my assumptions are correct. Again, I have one but have NO hand on as of yet.
Battery. I do know where that is. The ones I have seen are about the diameter of a AA and about 1.5 times as long as a AA. The ones I have seen are white and run parallel with one of the long sides of the main board. It is mounted right up to the edge.
As to the fuse. Humm. Seems like there is a LOT of fuse talk on the Atari games. My gut says it should not be a slow blow. A typical automotive fuse, as suggested in the "update" is not slow blow. Most slow blows I have seen are in monitors but I will admit my hands on is WAY limited. Not been at this long myself. The fuse holder could have just been something handy at the time someone needed to replace it thus the marking.
If you are going to dive in I would shoot Bob Roberts an e-mail (link from above to his site) and order his PS kit. You get a new Big Blue (that big capacitor in the bottom of the cab), a new rectifier for the PS as well as a correct fuse block. I am sure he can easily tell you what size fuse goes in there. I have no relation to Bob other than as a customer. He is a great guy, always informative, and his prices are hard to beat.
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Congrats on the game!!! Good call, IMHO, on the TURN IT OFF. I am sure it was blowing fuses for a reason!! Anyway, I have not worked on an Atari yet but have a PP myself in the wings to be worked on some day so I try to read when I can on the topic. Check this out, it discusses the very thing you are asking about in terms of the fuse replacement:
http://forums.webmagic.com/ubbthreads/show...true#Post333922
I would also suggest you get a component kit and rework the Audio/Regulator boards as those seem to be a weak point that end up overworking the supply and, thus, taking out the bank of fuses.
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#atari
I would make sure to pop off the edge connector on the main board and look for burns and tarnish. The one I have it pretty toasty which, as expected, rolled back and overworked and damaged the AR boards.
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David Crane Interview and Seminar
in Atari 2600 Programming
Posted
Great! Hope you like it. Let me know what you think.