tta583

I don't have a clue right off as to exactly how to answer your question as I would have to just start googleing around myself. BUT..I would suggest you go over to arcadecontrols.com. They are pretty much a How To MAMA site. Jump into their message board. Lot of good info there as well as a Video/Monitor specific forum. Bet they could help!!

Where did you get the cap from? May I make a suggestion? http://www.therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#atari Cap, new fuse block and quick disconnects, and the bridge rectifier. http://www.therealbobroberts.net/atarikit.jpg I throw Bob's links around a lot. I am not associated with him, just a happy customer!! he always seems to have a kit to take care to the common things that kill old games.

Just as ClubNinja said, laying it down is fine - on its back. Again, as he said just open it up and make sure there are no loose parts in there. Look for little things as well such as odd bolts, quarters, keys, etc. Anything that might fall into a space where it does not need to be so that it can cause a short. Depending on the condition of the game I like to put mine on a tarp to keep scratches to a minimum. Inexpensive movers blankets from Harbor Freight are nice as well. Be sure to pad/protect the sides so that the art does not get damaged. As to a dolly, I just use an appliance dolly I got from a home improvement store...Lowes I think it was. If you have access to one just borrow it. Lowes or Home Depot probably rents them. Just make sure it is an "appliance" style dolly with an adjustable strap to secure the load. I have moved a game upright on a truck bed with no problems. Of course it was padded and strapped in. If I have to go any distance it is a good idea to wrap (at least the top) in plastic as the portion sticking above the cab will catch bugs just like the windshield. If moving it upright put the game in so that he back of the game faces forward and the monitor/control panel faces the tail gate. This will help protect the front of the game should something come over the cab. As to your specific game, Star Wars. I think I would find a way to get it NO MATTER WHAT. First of all there is the entire eBay price hype about anything that says Star Wars on it. That aside, the game is just fun to play and the cab art is cool. Be double protective of the monitor. Star Wars uses a color vector monitor. No one make a replacement. Yes, that adds to the price hype for the game as well. The monitors can be had, they are a little more than a run of the mill color CGA arcade monitor, but they can be found. Worse case in the situation of a broken tube I seem to recall reading someplace that you can swap a common tube onto the vector chassis...not sure there. One way or another, just take note of the monitor and don't let a broom or tool fall in and break the neck off!!! Here are a couple of links that may help: Klov article on the game. http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=&game_id=9773 I also recommend that you look at the Klov message boards. Lot of help and info there: http://forums.webmagic.com/ubbthreads/ubbt...hp?Cat=&C=2 That is an Atari game. You did not mention what type of problem it has. Here are some basics in terms of parts. Not sure what is in there - is the power supply like other Atari games with problematic fuse banks and a "Big Blue" capacitor, does it use some version of the Atari Audio regulator board..etc... here is a good source of kits and parts: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#atari Bob also is a great source of cap kits for monitors. http://www.therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#atari I "think" that Star has an Elecrohome GO8-003 19" in it???? He has a cap kit for it, with the deflection transistors, for $9. These may help as well...again, depending on what ever the problem is with the game: http://www.skepticfiles.org/cowtext/arcade/atarixyh.htm http://www.westnet.com/~chris/arcade/F_Greg_Woodcock3.html Tons more out there with some google searching!! Good luck!

I am going to go out on a limb and say vertical output transistor. I have never worked on a G07 so I am guessing based on: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/go7-1.html#vcg07

No Problem, hope it helps. I know I hate asking questions only to get the standard "Oh just align the sun and the moon with the queen bee located in hive 34A on the west cost of Africa" and you problem will be solved answer. (In all fairness it seems like most folks here are not like that!) If I pick up a bit of knowledge along the way I try to pass it along. If for nothing else it may turn up in a google search and help out the next person in the same boat. Let us know how it turns out!!

Cool. I could never fall in to anything like that!! I have just started into the arcade thing myself, man its fun!! Hope this helps, here it goes!!!! Sounds like you have what is called a vertical collapse. Keep in mind that Dig Dug has the monitor in a vertical orientation (long axis runs up and down). In other words it is rotated 90 degrees from the "typical" horizontal orientation of a TV where the long axis runs left to right. It is worth noting that the monitor's controls still reference the screen as if it were rotated BACK 90 degrees to its (designed) original orientation. After all the thing is, basically, and striped down TV. The reason I say vertical collapse is that if the monitor were in a horizontal orientation then you would have that line running left to right...the picture squished down, or collapsed, vertically. Check out this page, Bob does a better job of explaining it plus he has pictures!! http://www.therealbobroberts.net/mo.html Believe it or not these things are not that hard to work on. Diagnose… well that gets tricky. I ask a ton of questions. Make sure you understand what you are dealing with in terms of the voltages in a monitor before you go poking around in there. The tube can hold 19 to 22 thousand volts. It is basically a capacitor formed between the internals of the tube and the frame. It can store a charge for years. Stay away from the flyback anode. The anode is that heavy wire ending at what looks like a suction cup stuck to the side of the tube. The flyback is basically a step up transformer that provides the high voltage needed by the monitor. Google to find out how to discharge the tube. Here is an article on how to make a good, safe, reliable discharging tool for a couple of bucks and a few minutes of time. http://www.therealbobroberts.net/sb.html I built one on a $8 12” screwdriver from Home Depot. The clamp was a buck at an auto parts store and the wire was a spare extension cord that I had. A tip: Grind the tip of the screwdriver blade a tad so that it is not as thick. It makes it easier to slip under the anode cup. Try to keep it smooth so that it will not scratch the monitor. Before you can do anything you need to figure out what monitor you have. Look on the monitor frame for a sticker that will ID the monitor manufacturer. Take note there will typically be a manufacturer and PN on the tube - RCA, Zennith, etc. This is not the make/model of the monitor. Typical manufacturers from that time would be Wells-Gardner or Electrohome. The Dig Dig page at KLOV says 19" Electrohome G07 http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=&game_id=7581 I would not necessarily trust that as anything could have happened to the game in its life. It may have even been made with a different monitor in it from Atari. It is all about price and what was available. The game does not care what is on the end of its video wires. If you are not sure that you found the maker and model number Bob Roberts has tons of pics of common monitor chassis to help you narrow it down: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html As to your problem. Well my guess would be a problem with one of the vertical transistors. Bad solder, broken leg, bad transistor all together. Here is Bob’s page on just your very issue: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/go7-1.html#vcg07 It is also worth going to his help page as there are several articles on the G07 (assuming that is what you have). http://www.therealbobroberts.net/helppage.html One way or another I would check out the vertical transistors as the above page mentions. If you have one broken I am sure he has them. I would definitely do a cap kit while you are working in the chassis. A cap kit replaces the electrolytic capacitors in the monitor’s chassis. An electrolytic cap will slowly fail over time, loosing capacitance, as the electrolytic (as I understand it) dries out. Many issues are fixed with a simple cap kit. Once you have full screen video I would bet, because of the age of the game, you will see other issues that a cap kit would address. Here is a link to Bob's cap kits. The one for a G07 (if that is what you have) is 5 bucks: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/caps.html Here is a link to his map of the G07 that helps locate the caps: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/go7lyot.html Yes, I know there are a lot of links to the same guy. No, I am in no way affiliated with Bob. He simply has a lot of info online, his prices are great, and he is an easy guy to work with. And since this is getting long I will go on and mention install of the components. Any experience with a soldering iron? A little practice and I am sure you can get going. Google for techniques. Hit Radio Shack and buy a cheep solderable breadboard and a cheep assortment of resisters and practice. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=search To remove components I have great luck, as a hobbyist, with the (el-cheep-o) Rat Shack desoldering tool. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=search Let it heat up. Away from the PCB squish the bulb to compress it. Put the tip over the leg of the component as it sticks thought the solder. When the solder melts release the bulb to suck up the solder. I keep a wet paper towel in a glass bowl to spit the old solder in to. I like desoldering braid for components with larger legs as it is hard to get the tip of the iron in there. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=search Ohhhh yes, check out the forums over at klov.com. Lot of good info there! Good Luck!!

Did not know that. So the board runs on AC??? Never worked on one..to be honest I was never a Pac-Man fan so I have not actively looked for one.

Well, yes you can convert it, if you want. If I had an original Pac-Man, working, in good shape, I don't think I would do it, however. To the best of my understanding messing with arcades for a short time the Multi-cade or Never Ends boards are JAMMA. Basically a more or less "standard" pin out for the edge of the arcade board. Pac-man is not a JAMMA board. You would have to re-wire the entire cab with a JAMMA harness. Then there is the control panel. Replace/update the CP to add an 8-way joystick (figuring some game in the multi would need an 8 way), perhaps a second joy (figuring some game would support 2 player simultaneous), buttons, track balls etc. Assuming you are running the old linear power supply it would be best to replace/update the power supply (most likely). Again, do-able and not as hard as it sounds but I don't think I would do not it if I had a good pac-man. If you are willing to convert it then it sounds like you are willing to do without it. I would consider selling it as they tend to bring a some cash then put the money in to a JAMMA cab. Untold numbers of games are JAMMA already making the work to convert them zero. If you want to wire one the harness can be had for less then $20. You still have to throw in more parts:joys, buttons, track balls, connectors, perhaps a power supply. Say $100-150 ish if you had a totally barren cab. This may be of use: A/C wiring a game. http://www.therealbobroberts.net/buildit.html Wiring a JAMMA http://www.therealbobroberts.net/jh.html This may be an interesting read. Bob "rebuilds" a Ms PacMan with an aftermarket, but Pac specific, harness. It s a good run down of doing one from the ground up. http://www.therealbobroberts.net/mspac.html Here is Bob's parts page if you care to look. Trust me, its hard to beat his prices. He sells Happ Controls buttons and Joys for less than they do. He also charges only actual cost for shipping.

Check happcontrols.com. The have their 19" shelf mount arcade monitors on sale this month for $149. I think I am going to order one myself. I understand they are actually made by a company called Tovis.

Have you tried calling an operator? When I decided to start messing with arcades I just called an operator that has a few games in a local pizza place. They had 4 complete but non working games and an empty Taito cab (in wonderful shape). They were more than happy to sell them all to me for a fair price. I also wrangled a couple monitors out of them (in need of a cap kit). brent

Thanks for all the help guys!! All in all I ended up taking 3 2600's and making 1 and a 1/2. What did he say?? 1 1/2? Well I had 2 4 switchers and a jr my buddy asked me to look at. The jr looked to need a new power switch. Well, when I opened it I realized the large cap from the left side of the board was gone as was the LED and its post, the channel switch, the mylar traces for the right side switches, and probably a few other components. There was also the cart connector that looked as if a cart was forced in with a hammer. The case went to a working jr with a busted shell, thus the 1/2!! As for the 4 switchers. I pulled the TIA from the one needing a game select switch to get the other cleaner, complete, unit working. I looked at Best for the TIA (like $11:50) and switch (like $3) and gave it all back to my buddy. He decided that $15 in parts plus shipping was a little to much trouble (he, like I and most of you I am sure, already has a stack of 2600s) so he just gave me all the remaining parts for my trouble. Thanks again!!

Thanks a lot A.J. That will get printed and stuck in my file. Any significance to the number after CO10444 or CO10444D on the Tia? I am guessing not. The one on the Jr. I have open in front of me is 31. I want the say the ones in the 4 switches I was messing with are much lower. One way or another they obviously swap.

Hey guys, just got back to looking at these things. Been playing with some arcades for the last few days...don't ask. Any way I swapped out the TIA with the other 4 switcher I have and it fired up. Thanks for the help!! Another trick to keep in mind. BTW, it there a diagram or something floating around out there some place? Or some kind of PN conversion chart perhaps? A.J. mentioned a 6507 and 6532. Of the 3 chips in each of these 4 switchers in front of me none of them have those numbers. Thanks!

OK, I can give it a try. The IC's are socketed? To be honest I had 2 apart the other night (the second needs a new game select switch) but I never noticed. Just for my knowledge. How does the mostly black screen lead you to a bad IC? Is a failure of the RF stage apparent in a different way? I am guessing no RF then there would be no screen change (snow to black-ish) when I power it on. Brent

Kind of new to the "fix it" scene. A fellow collector asked me to take a look at 3 of his problem units. The one in question is a woody 4 switch. When you power it on it gives, more or less, a black screen. No sound. It will follow the channel selector to a different channel. Definitely not the cart, tested with various known good carts. When he first mentioned it I thought perhaps something failed in the RF converter? Upon actually looking at it (in person, not in a pic) I see there is a little desoldering needed to open up the shielding to actually take a peek. Decided I might ask around a bit before starting into it and possibly making it worse.

You're faster then me, those projects always seem to go slow. Especially cutting out holes in the project box, yuck. Took one hour for thew second one. First one was more closer to two hours. You always get better after you have done something before I find. Also he is a link to where you can get the 4052's for 25 cents. This is where I got mine. Good seller and good working parts. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=7512369147 Shawn Sr. Thanks for the follow up. I think I am going to get them at jameco.com along with all the other stuff I need. They have them from TI for .48. They also have them listed as from "Major Brands" for like .44. https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/se...roductId=272081 At least I hope this is the right one!! This stuff is still WAY new to me. Totaled up I am at like $22 plus shipping for all that I need. IC’s (including a spare or 2), 10 (minimum order) IC sockets (just because), 100 packs of 5 different resistor values, and the 15 and 9 pin D-subs (plus spares, just because). I even included 2 100’ spools of 22 AWG wire (1 stranded, 1 solid). That price, however, is minus some solder hobby boards and enclosures that I got from RS. Jameco had (as best I could tell) no generic solder board. As to the enclosures, I wanted to put my hands on them to size them up. I never was good at visualizing them from measurements.

Well...to be honest I think you answered your own question. If the going eBay rate is like $35 bucks then I say go there. If you are just looking for controllers I bet they could be had cheaper there as well. If you do buy his I would test the controllers up front.

I found that out with my 7800 Joypad I put together from a Sega pad. The wires are not meant to be reused. Same thing happened to me when I started messing with the Sega cable. You need a wire stripper similar to this: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item..._STRIPPER_.html Radio shack, or probably any home improvement store, has them. You set the screw that is one of the handles to act as a stop. This will keep the jaws just where you need them. A couple of quick tests on the Sega cable and you can dial it in with ease. Once I had mine set they are a breeze to strip. I am working on a 2nd controller right now. After I cut the cable out of the original pad I stripped all the wire ends in one shot, one at a time, with no problems.

Great!! Thanks!!! I was beginning to wonder if anyone had actually built the thing.

You can use any (decent) RCA cable. I actually use a Jr. most of the time as it has the removable cable so I can substitute a new, nicely shielded, RCA. The trick is that it is, after all, RF. You need one of the old TV/Game switch boxes or one of these to convert it to a type-F coax for the RF input on your TV. http://www.atariage.com/store/index.php?ma...&products_id=42 I would go with one of these little guys as they are not prone to signal loss through the switch due to interference or cruddy contacts. If you have a (real) electronics store close by you can pick them up for that price if not a little less. I actually use one that is female on the type-F side. I leave a piece of COAX (male to male) hanging our beside my TV to make it easier to swap in different systems without having to crawl around.

Unless you want to get into it yourself I vote for A.J. Not a commercial, I don't know him and he has never done any work for me but if he is willing to do the work I think that is the way to go especially given the price. I have done joystick ports on a 7800 myself. No huge deal but I would charge more than 10 bucks labor. Then again, I am not the fastest with an iron...still kind of feeling it all out.

Well my motives are two fold. One, yes I would like a digital alternative to the 5200 controllers. Second, and most important for me, is that this is a learning experience. I have always had a passing fancy to learn more about electronics. I have been reading, building kits, etc... This will be my first circuit on a "generic" PCB where the details and component placement is up to me.

Sega Gen 1 and Master System http://www.hardwarebook.net/connector/av/sega1.html Sega Gen 2, 32x and Nomad http://www.hardwarebook.net/connector/av/sega2.html I did one for a Sega 1, worked out great. If anyone out there does one for a the Sega 1 the DIN port on the front of the console does not have stero sound. Just take a 1/8th" stero to RCA (White/Red) cable and plug into the headphone port on the front of the unit.

Any one?

Here is the link to the adapter to which I am referring: http://www94.pair.com/jsoper/gen_2_5200_adap.html I am going to build one (Actually 2) but have a question. Do you simply tie all the grounds together? Connecting pin 15 from the console through to the "new" D-sub 15 makes sense. I would see that you also need to tie it in to pin 8 on the D-sub 9 for the digital controller. Can you also tie in the grounds for the 4052s (pins 6, 7, and 8 on each) to the same ground? Thanks!!