MEtalGuy66

Lance, I assure you I have no idea. Thankfully, I haven't had the misfortune of being involved in any business with you. The only official papers I've seen related to any of your "business" have been ones that others have publicly posted on this forum. So, thankfully, I haven't "lost" anything. And I'm a pirate myself. I have no reason to try to buy anything that you consider yours.. Id much rather see it distributed for free. I have a job that pays my bills just fine. It has nothing to do with Atari software. I just hate to see others waste money on stuff you have laid claim to.

No idea what you are referring to.

Yep. Good ol Lance Rinquist.. Biggest BUTT-PIRATE there ever was in the atari scene. Likes to "aquire" rights to others work and then threaten legal action against those who won't bow to his awesome authority. Ask Sal Esquivel and Pete Meyer how Lance "Aquired" the rights to the software they have written in recent years. Something along the lines of: "Guys, some of the original games companies from the 80s are going to try and sue you for similarity to their products.. Better sign the rights over to me so that my lawyers can protect it all..." Lance is a slimy piece of filth that has been slithering through the Atari community, leaving a stinking trail of disgust for decades.. Don't give him your money, don't take him seriously, and don;t worry about his ridiculous legal threats.

Make one the makes good use of 65816, contiguous ram, etc. The target should be a mod player than can correctly load and play any protracker mod that a real AMIGA with 2megs chipram is capable of playing.

The color adjustment circuit most likely has developed high resistance in the potentiometer.. Try adjusting it. If you open it up and look at the PCB, there are 2 potentiometer wheels near the right front of the machine. The smaller one is the controller calibration. Dont mess with that one. The larger one is the GTIA color phase adjuster.. Turn that one and see what happens... Sometimes, just turning it will be enough to clean the oxidization off the carbon disc inside it and then you can adjust it back in to the correct color tint.. Electrical contact cleaner spray can also be used..

Yep. Thats exactly what I have in my 4port and it works great.

They look great. Put me on the list for a set.

The 5200 didnt "flop". The entire home video game industry did.

What the hell happened to Carmel? It says he was last active on October 16, 2013?!?! Did he die or something?

Well.. For pure collector's motivations, I'm not gonna burst your bubble and tell you not to pursue it. Just realize that even when a 1027 printer was brand new and in perfect working order: a) it was slower than death, b) the vertical alignment of each printed character was so eradic due to poor design tolerances that it looked like you typed the document on an old mechanical typewriter with an extremely worn-out mechanism.

YEah Id be much more interested in something that has the actual stuff integrated in the board.. Eg. 20mhz 65816 cpu, 32megs sdram, 16meg linear/16meg banked.. vbxe.. stereo pokey.. dma based fast mass storage.. flashable OS/DOS.. Why reinvent the wheel.. If your gonna make a new board, make all the "upgrades" integrated from the start.. Then people who would like to use/develop for the "modern high-spec" atari XL/XE can buy that one board and be assured of some exact common level of compatability/reliability... Lets get serious...

yep. Thats how you do it.. And even something like windex is fine, if you need to remove some stubborn gunk.. Just as long as your cleaning agent doesnt physically break down the surface of the media.. Definitely steer clear of chemical solvents like acetone, toluene, ethanol.. anything that smells like it might "get you high" is probably too strong and might begin to desolve the surface of the media..

Dont use a 1050.. Use an old bullet-proof Sugart or Tandon full-height 360k PC/XT floppy drive, connected to a Cryo-flux or catwiesel.. These devices can make a much lower level image than what the limitations of the 1050's hardware/firmware imposes. Also. the guys who commented before are right.. If you have a disk thats full of "gunk".. theres no way in HELL you should ever consider inserting it into a working disk drive. Open the disk, remove the actual media, clean it with some mild solvent, and then replace it into a NEW floppy exterior.. If the "surface is comming off of the media," then you wouldn't have been able to read it anyway.. There is a limit to what can be done when things are too far gone to recover.

Actually, Kyle's pictures are correct and the guide on Steve Cardens website is wrong. This is the correct way:

I'll sell you mine for $1000.00

irc.freenode.net ##atari his handle is SJC

Got the book. Really impressed.. Soon as Im done reading it, it will have a permanent place on the coffee table in the living room. Thanks for a weell done book on a great subject.

The Eidolon Koronis Rift Gemstone Warrior Custer's Revenge!

Space Harrier XE

Well, I certainly get the idea that the key people in this project are committed to supporting the Atari ST as fully as possible at as many levels as possible, or I wouldn't be here, wasting your time and mine. Vincent Riviere (Blank Vector) of EmuTOS notoriety came and joined the project today. First "baby steps" being discussed are improved OS CPU detection routines for the 68080 Core in EmuTOS and possible modification of Vampire's onboard SAGA graphics subsystem at the core level to directly accommodate/support FVDI. If you go on Youtube and look at our Mac Emulation videos, it will BLOW YOU AWAY... This is a big concern of the Amiga community as well. The Latest Vampire development boards (being ordered from the PCB manufacturer now) have built-in local ethernet. So, this is a feature that will likely remain standard in future production models. The Vampire/Apollo team is committed to delivering the highest possible level of software compatability. While the ST support fork of the project is relatively infantile at this point, the daily increase in software compatability on the AMIGA is (for me at least) indicative of the constant/continued/tireless commitment of alot of very talented development people to making this the absolute most robust accelleration platform for real hardware that the retrocomputing world has seen in recent years, or possibly ever. .

The AMiga's OS supports retargetable graphics.. So, the HDMI is essentially a "video card" to the amiga OS.. It uses a driver just like say a Picasso IV or Cybervision 64/3D would. Programs that access the amiga's native display hardware directly (mostly games, demos, and stuff) are going to continue to use the stock RGB output.. However, on the Amiga, specifically, there is work being done in the way of various methods of "snooping" the data from the amiga chipset and re-directing the output via HDMI.. This is something that may be feasible due to the flexibility of the fpga based design and the nature of the AMIGA.. It wouldnt make sense to speculate on its application concerning the ST at this point. However... What you should be able to do in all liklihood is run your GEM desktop on an HDMI connected modern device, in much higher color depth and resolution and much MUCH faster than the Atari's native display. Then when running games/demos/etc, the output would appear on the Atari's normal display. I don't want to make this thread about the Amiga, but since you specifically asked for an example of how the HDMI vs stock displays might be used: The LCD panel display on the left is the Amiga Workbench screen. You can see an IRC client running on it.. The screen on the right is the Amiga's native ECS output, running a .mod player. clicking the "window cycle" gadget in the upper right of either screen switches your mouse pointer from one screen to another.. There can also be multiple "screens" running per physical display in which case, the cycle gadget also toggles which "screen" is being displayed.. Alot of this is specific to the Amiga and how it's OS/GUI behaves..

ParanoidLittleMan, You are a troll because you have made your point.. You have been told it's irrelevant, and you continue to repeat yourself. You are clearly NOT a hardware expert based on the things you have said, but we have all tolerated several repetitions of it. Everyone here UNDERSTANDS you don't like the ideas being presented here.. GO SOMEWHERE ELSE.. If everything being said here is lunacy, then let us be lunatics. I'm asking you nicely at this point.

I'm sorry to hear about that negative experience. The people you spoke to were undoubtedly not members of the actual Vampire or Apollo-core projects. There are alot of people who hang out in the IRC channel. Unfortunately, sometimes people have silly "hardware rivalry" left over from the 80s. I assure you this is NOT the position of the people who actually count. The project developers are very interested in supporting as many 68k platforms as possible. Right now, Atari ST is the next logical step in that goal, and knowledgable Atari ST veterans are needed.

Yeah. Its a relatively high-end fpga.. It has hundreds of programmable I/O pins.. At worst, your probably talking about a jumper wire or two.. At best, just some VHDL code.. I don't know the particulars as far as which pins of the 68000 socket are connected/orphaned. But that's exactly the kind of insight we need. You should pop over to the IRC channel if you get a chance and have a chat with the developers..

It makes a 68k AMIGA run faster than any other accelerator I've ever seen. You have my word on that.