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scotty

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About scotty

  • Birthday July 6

Profile Information

  • Custom Status
    I have, but have **YOU** played Atari today?
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ohio, USA, Planet Earth
  • Interests
    Classic gaming, Classic computing, Theme/Amusement parks, roller coasters, Roller skating, bowling, baseball, communications, podcasts, having fun. Driving
  • Currently Playing
    Star League Baseball (Atari 8-bit)
  • Playing Next
    Micro League Baseball

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Dragonstomper (6/9)

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  1. I did this as a 12 year old kid. Just put a paper clip or something small in the latch mechanism. takes 2 second, very simple very easy, and is not permanent.
  2. Thank you for the clarification.
  3. Question on the lost Atari models.... So I created a virtual 1450XLD for the first time, even though it has been available for a few months now. Too many other projects going on. Anyhow... WHen I use the 1450 TONG controller it gives me a message "Please Insert Disk, and close drive latch Or if you do not want disks, press return". OK, so the obvious question, is there a switch, or key combination to close the latch? I was thinking it might be under console switches, but nothing there. 2nd question....This is going WAAAAAY back... I vaguely remember reading that the disk controller in the 1450XLD was a lot faster than a 1050 drive. Trying the other 1450 disc controller, I really do not notice a speed difference. Sure, I could click on the SIO handler, and get the near instant load times, but I want to play with a system close to the original. I also noticed the regular controller does not have the loading beeps. Is this normal??
  4. scotty

    Mame ColecoVision

    Use MameUI (assuming you are running Windows. Simple as can be. Just click the cart name from the software window, and go. Can not make it any more simpler. No having to type a novel to play a game every time. Screenshot from my personal version.
  5. scotty

    PicoDrive

    Is PicoDrive still the only emulator that can run the handful of SegaCD games that require the 32X? Also, Is there a standalone Windows X86 version or just the RetroArch core?
  6. Even if you can just take a high res picture of each of the 4 parts of the board, I can stitch them together, and greatly help the community. Any help appreciated.
  7. It was in the Willowick, Willoughby area from what I remember. In the days of Ma Bell, it was a local call from Cleveland (Cuyahoga County) so it had to be pretty close to the border.
  8. "Cleveland Atari Computer Enthusiasts", "Lake County Atari Computer Enthusiasts" or "Thee Atari Peekers" which was B&G Electronics user group over in Lakewood. I miss those days. Sadly, I know of a few members that have passed on to that user group meeting in the sky, but is there any Cleveland area users out there?
  9. Oh lord.... I had the 1000C, then some generic 1200, I wanna say the DAK Electronics modem, connected to an 850. I think from there it was the 2400 USR Courier, and the last one I ever bought was the 56K HST Dual Standard External. Seems to me there was a USR 28.8 that was a free upgrade to 33.6 in there somewhere too, but way to many years and too many brain cells ago. LOL
  10. So in theory, the C was the better model, I guess. I had the C and ran a BBS back in the day with no problems. My best friend of 40 years had the E, but never ran a BBS so he never said anything about it. What was the reason for the change from the C to the E? Cost cutting? Although the E was in a bigger case....
  11. SWEET!!! Thank you for this. I had the "1000C" which was the earlier blue model were they functionally identical? Also, I will download this later today. Is there a bios needed or is it embedded? Thank you again.
  12. Oh crap. I never noticed that. Don't know how I missed it. Thank you so much.
  13. Avery, Any chance we might someday see the Koala Pad emulated?
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