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*slaps forehead* That's a lot more elegant than my wedging the end of a Q-tip swab over the switch. -SteveS p.s. I see Larry had the same solution. p.p.s. Larry, My AVGCart is the only one of the type but I think the popular cart shells originated with C64. My cart only fits (very snugly) in the 800 by leaning the cart backward and then firmly nudging it home. -SteveS

I bought a mouSTer mainly to connect a USB mouse to my 800XL. My converted ball mouse was still working but I was concerned the mechanisms can't last forever. Only game I play with a mouse is Missile Command+. Wireless USB mouse works great in that role As it turns out mouSTer works with the one USB joystick I own (an ancient Suncom model, wired). All joystick buttons get mapped to Atari's one fire button. By default some buttons are single shot while others have an auto-fire feature. This feature is part of mouSTer itself. The feature can be enabled or disabled per button. I don't own a collection of USB game controllers (yet) so I cannot do a [edit] review of how well any might work with mouSTer. -SteveS

tmp, Sorry for the late feedback. I only just now noticed that with AC26 and AC27 FLOB cartridge for AVGCart is unable to detect my FLOB.SAV file. p.s. quick update - This problem is only true if I use the search function to find FLOB. Works ok if I navigate to FLOB.

I'd like to build a PBI cable for my AVGCart. Is there a schematic available? -SteveS

DrClu is the owner of this one-off. Still works last I heard. It was always a spinning HDD. PM him. -SteveS

I'm completely split between FujiNet, FujiNet-PC cable and software, AVGCart, and FujiNet-PC cable used as SIO2PC with SIO2BSD software. I use them all. However I don't think I choose to use one specifically because of the disk emulation ability. It's whichever one is handy at the time. If one is plugged into the wrong A8 (I only have an 800XL and an 800 setup) then I pick another. I probably use actual disk emulation the most with the physical FujiNet. However, AVGCart is my daily driver. It basically does everything I wish these days. I used a barebones SDrive for 10+ years but it died and I never attempted to rebuild it. I crudely assembled an SDrive-MAX but because I failed to make a case for all the tossing around pretty much did it in.. -SteveS

I found this old thread regarding Monkey Wrench II. You'll find everything you need in Fuls' post. I vaguely recall putting together Monkey Wrench II (non XL version) and Atari BASIC Rev A. If I truly knew any details I've since forgotten them. I assume the composed Monkey Wrench II + BASIC Rev C image will be very useful when one [this *one* in particular] can't recall whether an OS has OPTION reversed or not. It won't matter because a 16K cartridge will be installed and internal BASIC won't be used -SteveS

I have no skills at analyzing electronics problems. A few days ago I measured VDC at 5.01 and VAC at less than 0.01 volt. I don't know if that's the same as "ripple". -SteveS

I'm having this problem now. I ordered both replacement LM358s and 4.7 uF capacitors. They were cheap enough to order multiples. I hope one or both solve the problem. Something I noticed just now. If I play say a PDM file the sound is not only very low the noise is low as well. When the music stops the noise replaces the music at a much higher volume level, subjectively 3 or 4 times louder. It sounds like 60 hz hum to me. while the music plays the hum is still there but the floor is very, very low. I don't expect the parts to arrive for several weeks. -SteveS

Is there a version of AVFPLAY with the new features?

That's what I thought. I probably will assemble a second board for myself. One will get a cart shell. (Thanks for the offer Phigan!). The other won't fit in a shell. The 10uF capacitors I received weren't the 7mm tall ones I though I ordered. They are instead 11.5mm tall. The board just squeaks by in the 800 without a shell. Perhaps I'll put a couple of toggles or slide switches somewhere on the case. -SteveS

Thank you! -SteveS

Hi, Larry! Here you go. https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/OSSCART__OSS_4_in_1_Short_Cartridge_for_Atari_400_800_Computers.html https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/OSSCART__The_OSS_4_in_1_Cartridge_for_Atari_8_Bit_Computers.html -SteveS

Is there currently a case available for the short board? or the plans and a place available to have it have it printed? My boards arrived Today. I haven't assembled one yet. -SteveS

This looked like a fun project so I decided to order a few of the short boards from pcbway.com. I was treated with 3 nice surprises. 1 - Only $5 USD (plus shipping, see below) for the minimum order of 5 boards. 2 - while checking to see if more boards can be purchased for the same shipping charge I learned 10 boards carry both the same charge and also the same $5 total purchase price. 3 - the website presented me with a $5 new customer discount coupon applicable for my first purchase. Net Purchase price for my first 10 board order was $0. Note: Regarding the shipping charge, at checkout there are options to the default. USPS for $11.88 USD was available for myself. -SteveS

I believe that is Green Haven Light in Michigan I like your photo choice of that lighthouse and also your rastaconversion much better than either of mine. (I can't seem to locate the message in this thread). This lighthouse conversion is the only one I was happy with. There's a PAL version further down the page. Please continue with your lighthouse series. Lighthouses are always fun to see. -SteveS

This may be true but my test is easy and quick and requires no changes and will confirm Fujinet and/or SDrive-MAX as working or not I know FujiNet has safeguards allowing the connection of both SIO power and external power. I'm not so sure about all SDrive-MAXes, especially homebrewed ones. -SteveS

your daily drivers are stock 400 or 800? very retro. nice! -SteveS

As already mentioned 400/800 boots too quickly for FujiNet or SDrive-MAX to be ready. Not elegant but this usually works for me. - Hold down START when you power up the 400, as if you were going to boot a cassette. This will prevent the Atari from entering Memo Pad before either device is ready for use. for SDrive-MAX 16K minimum is required - Wait for it to initialize. If the touch screen looks scrambled press the SDrive-MAX's RESET button (assuming you have one). Select an ATR or XEX which you wish mapped as D1: - Now press the 400's RESET. Logical drive D1: should now be available to the 400 and it will boot the mapped ATR/XEX for FujiNet 48K minumum is required (to run the Config utility) - On first use of FujiNet all you will see is the amber LED on the right side blink a few times then all LEDs will be blank. Wait a few moments. - Now press the 400's RESET. FujiNet's CONFIG should run (see FujiNet documentation) -SteveS

Problem fixed. Thanks! Sorry for the false alarm. I didn't think to look for an update of SDXImage since a day or two ago. -SteveS

I am getting a file corruption when editing CONFIG.SYS. I'm using SDXImage.exe via wine/linux. CONFIG.SYS exactly as I have added the change at the "DEVICE SIO" line Reviewing CONFIG.SYS after editing has been completed 2 Bytes appear to be added to the beginning of the text while 1 or more bytes are removed from the end. -SteveS

I attempted to convert this image some time ago. I was almost happy with it. Link [Edit] IIRC I was unable to generate a presentable PAL version

I'm convinced your ATR8000 is alive. I suggest simplifying your testing. Start with your 5.25" drive. As the The_Doctor suggested make sure the floppy cable is connected correctly. Pin 1 on the ATR8000 is on the right hand side. cable's pin 1 must connect to pin 1 on your floppy drives's connect. My ATR8000 has an unkeyed connector making it very easy to invert the cable connector (bad). Some ATR8000s have a *keyed* connector but since some cables are unkeyed it's still possible to make a connection inverted. Next check your 5.25" drive. Since during the test the drive will be the only one on the cable it should have a resistor network. Some drives have a DIP package others have a SIPP The drive should have jumper DS0 (Drive Select 0) set. There must not be a flip in your cable. Connect the drive to the ATR8000 placing it at the end of the cable. I realize this may possible as your cable will likely have a 34 pin IDC header connector(s) for the 3.5" drive(s) and also a 34 pin card edge connector (for the 5.25" drive). Do not connect the Atari at this point. Power up the drive. Power on the ATR8000. The drive should reset to track 0. It's a familiar sound. If this doesn't happen the drive is not going to work (yet). If it doesn't I'm sorry I don't have enough experience to troubleshoot at this point. My ATR8000 has not failed me since I acquired it in 1983 or 1984. Assuming the above test worked I would like you to prepare a new bootable floppy using your Happy drive. MyDOS will work. It's easy to change densities. Type 'P" (Pick Density). Change disks and format the one you insert. The reason you want a single density disk is it it guaranteed to be be compatible (assuming all drives are in working order and baring alignment issues with one or more drive) is it is guaranteed to work on the ATR8000. Disconnect the Happy from the Atari and connect the ATR8000. Hopefully the new disk will boot. If everything is working it should boot. If the test earlier worked then the ATR8000 should at least try to boot. Let us know the outcome. Good luck. -SteveS

One of the ATR8000's basic functions is to be a print spooler. If you type LPRINT in BASIC and don't get an error then the spooler is running. At least the ROM, RAM, and Z80 are all good.

I just clicked the link from my original email (for digital download). The new zip has a version called "ENHANCED ROBOTS.ATR". In the game click COLOR TILES.