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a8isa1

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Posts posted by a8isa1

  1. 44 minutes ago, Beeblebrox said:

    I've one of these great lil 3D printed cart door props:

     

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3593159

     

    image.thumb.png.cf167786c43a8aa7e3755cfc141720c6.png

     

    image.thumb.png.722630714ae04acfe7c315c3a4a4cee9.png

    *slaps forehead*

     

    That's a lot more elegant than my wedging the end of a Q-tip swab over the switch.

     

    -SteveS

     

    p.s. I see Larry had the same solution.

     

    p.p.s. Larry, My AVGCart is the only one of the type but I think the popular cart shells originated with C64.  My cart only fits (very snugly) in the 800 by leaning the cart backward and then firmly nudging it home.

     

    -SteveS

    • Thanks 1
  2. 4 hours ago, Ricky Spanish said:

    Tried the search function.. wasn't very helpful. Are there any PC based joystick to ATARI adaptor out there ? Seen plenty of the other way around versions. Thanks.

    I bought a mouSTer mainly to connect a USB mouse to my 800XL.  My converted ball mouse was still working but I was concerned the mechanisms can't last forever.

     

    Only game I play with a mouse is Missile Command+.     Wireless USB mouse works great in that role

     

    As it turns out mouSTer works with the one USB joystick I own (an ancient Suncom model, wired).   All joystick buttons get mapped to Atari's one fire button.  By default some buttons are single shot while others have an auto-fire feature.  This feature is part of mouSTer itself.   The feature can be enabled or disabled per button.

     

    I don't own a collection of USB game controllers (yet) so I cannot do a [edit] review of how well any might work with mouSTer.

     

    -SteveS

    • Like 1
  3. On 8/26/2022 at 5:21 PM, tmp said:

    new beta - ac27

     

    interesting to those who have stock (16kB ram) 600xl machine and pbi cable, it tries to provide missing 48kB to make it 64kB machine, at the expense of some cart ram (so e.g. 1MB car files are a no go)

    extram support (ctrl-shift-m) needs to be enabled for it to work but otherwise it should work (or break) automatically

    tmp, Sorry for the late feedback.  I only just now noticed that with AC26 and AC27 FLOB cartridge for AVGCart is unable to detect my FLOB.SAV file. 

     

    p.s. quick update - This problem is only true if I use the search function to find FLOB.  Works ok if I navigate to FLOB.

     

  4. On 7/6/2022 at 10:21 AM, santosp said:

    Has anyone ever modified their Atari with something like this? If so, did he use a hard drive or a compact flash card?

    My problem is that while I've managed to get it to work up to a point, I can't say for sure that it works properly. It is currently auto booting into an DOS 4.53 environment, but from there it only copies some types of files and not everything. Also I never managed to make any program or game image to run it. 

    Any help or even guidance on this is welcome.

     

    Panos

    DrClu is the owner of this one-off.  Still works last I heard.  It was always a spinning HDD.

     

    PM him.

     

    -SteveS

    • Like 1
  5. I'm completely split between FujiNet,  FujiNet-PC cable and software, AVGCart, and FujiNet-PC cable used as SIO2PC with SIO2BSD software.   I use them all.

     

    However I don't think I choose to use one specifically because of the disk emulation ability.   It's whichever one is handy at the time.   If one is plugged into the wrong A8 (I only have an 800XL and an 800 setup) then I pick another.

     

    I probably use actual disk emulation the most with the physical FujiNet.  However, AVGCart is my daily driver.   It basically does everything I wish these days.

     

    I used a barebones SDrive for 10+ years but it died and I never attempted to rebuild it.   I crudely assembled an SDrive-MAX but because I failed to make a case for all the tossing around pretty much did it in..

     

    -SteveS

     

     

  6. I found this old thread regarding Monkey Wrench II.  You'll find everything you need in Fuls' post.

     

    I vaguely recall putting together Monkey Wrench II (non XL version) and Atari BASIC Rev A.  If I truly knew any details I've since forgotten them.

     

    I assume the composed Monkey Wrench II + BASIC Rev C image will be very useful when one [this *one* in particular] can't recall whether an OS has OPTION reversed or not.   It won't matter because a 16K cartridge will be installed and internal BASIC won't be used

     

    -SteveS

    • Like 2
  7. 4 minutes ago, Peter Rabitt said:

    HI well I would say you might have a problem with your filter cap's.. If you have "hum"(is it 60HZ hum?) . The 5.0volts may have a filtering problem..The little caps will not help.. If you can check the 5.0vdc for ripple on it... Then check the "BIG" filter caps near the input to the box(power connector)... Now the low volume I can't say because I also have "low" volume and I don't know why.. the sound at the output plug is 6-7 tenth and should work...Maybe it is the box to convert the Atari video/sound to HDMI...

    Hope it works soon..

     

    Peter

    I have no skills at analyzing electronics problems. A few days ago I measured VDC at 5.01 and VAC at less than 0.01 volt.  I don't know if that's the same as "ripple".

     

    -SteveS

  8. I'm having this problem now.  I ordered both replacement LM358s and 4.7 uF capacitors.    They were cheap enough to order multiples.   I hope one or both solve the problem.

     

    Something I noticed just now.  If I play say a PDM file the sound is not only very low the noise is low as well.  When the music stops the noise replaces the music at a much higher volume level, subjectively 3 or 4 times louder.  It sounds like 60 hz hum to me.   while the music plays the hum is still there but the floor is very, very low.

     

    I don't expect the parts to arrive for several weeks.

     

    -SteveS

  9. 23 hours ago, Larry said:

    Thanks, Steve! 

    It looks like one must open the cart and change jumpers to switch roms?  Thinking about this, I think that a long time ago, I made something like this from a real OSS Supercart using mini switches on top instead of jumpers.  That probably would be too tall for a 400/800.  Didn't find a picture of the populated pcb.  Can someone post one?

    That's what I thought.   I probably will assemble a second board for myself.   One will get a cart shell. (Thanks for the offer Phigan!). The other won't fit in a shell.  The 10uF capacitors I received weren't the 7mm tall ones I though I ordered.  They are instead 11.5mm tall. The board just squeaks by in the 800 without a shell.

     

    Perhaps I'll put a couple of toggles or slide switches somewhere on the case.

     

    -SteveS

  10. Is there currently a case available for the short board?     or the plans and a place available to have it have it printed?

     

    My boards arrived Today.  I haven't assembled one yet.

     

    -SteveS

  11. This looked like a fun project so I decided to order a few of the short boards from pcbway.com.

     

    I was treated with 3 nice surprises.

     

    1 - Only $5 USD (plus shipping, see below) for the minimum order of 5 boards.

     

    2 - while checking to see if more boards can be purchased for the same shipping charge I learned 10 boards carry both the same charge and also the same $5 total purchase price.

     

    3 - the website presented me with a $5 new customer discount coupon applicable for my first purchase. Net Purchase price for my first 10 board order was $0.

     

    Note:

     

    Regarding the shipping charge, at checkout there are options to the default. USPS for $11.88 USD was available for myself.

     

    -SteveS

    • Like 1
  12. 16 hours ago, Beeblebrox said:

    I decided I wanted to try an convert a series of lighthouse images. This was one of the more successful ones, a moody dawn - (I forgot to note down the location - somewhere in the States I think).

     

    I believe that is Green Haven Light in Michigan

     

    I like your photo choice of that lighthouse and also your rastaconversion much better than either of mine.  (I can't seem to locate the message in this thread). 

     

    This lighthouse conversion is the only one I was happy with.  There's a PAL version further down the page.

     

    Please continue with your lighthouse series.  Lighthouses are always fun to see.

     

    -SteveS

  13. 2 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

    My dailies include stock 400s (well, one is 48K, modded decades ago before I got it), stock 800s and stock 64K 1200XL. 


    The point is, various hardware/firmware revisions of these modern devices, plus various age-related conditions which can affect any old system randomly, means you can’t just make a generalization about the system will boot too fast or slow enough to use with them. Some will, some won’t. If the user’s systems boot too quickly for use with a FujiNet or SDrive-Max, the easiest solution is just use an external microUSB power supply and don’t worry about it.

    This may be true but my test is easy and quick and requires no changes and will confirm Fujinet and/or SDrive-MAX as working or not

     

    I know FujiNet has safeguards allowing the connection of both SIO power and external power.   I'm not so sure about all SDrive-MAXes, especially homebrewed ones.

     

    -SteveS

  14. 1 hour ago, DrVenkman said:

    That’s not universally true - some machines (my daily drivers included) boot up in time just fine. 


    That said, an external power supply is not a bad idea to try as an easy first step if someone is having trouble getting machines to boot reliably from the device.

    your daily drivers are stock 400 or 800?  very retro.  nice!

     

    -SteveS

  15. As already mentioned 400/800 boots too quickly for FujiNet or SDrive-MAX to be ready.  

     

    Not elegant but this usually works for me.

     

    - Hold down START when you power up the 400, as if you were going to boot a cassette.  This will prevent the Atari from entering Memo Pad before either device is ready for use.

     

    for SDrive-MAX 16K minimum is required

    - Wait for it to initialize.  If the touch screen looks scrambled press the SDrive-MAX's RESET button (assuming you have one).  Select an ATR or XEX which you wish mapped as D1:

    - Now press the 400's RESET.  Logical drive D1: should now be available to the 400 and it will boot the mapped ATR/XEX

     

    for FujiNet 48K minumum is required (to run the Config utility)

    - On first use of FujiNet all you will see is the amber LED on the right side blink a few times then all LEDs will be blank.  Wait a few moments.

    - Now press the 400's RESET.  FujiNet's CONFIG should run (see FujiNet documentation)

     

    -SteveS

     

  16. 4 hours ago, drac030 said:

    Excellent catch, thank you very much. It is a bug in the library (so replacing DOSKEY does not help). We will most probably upload a fixed revision today.

     

    As about the SDX Imager, it has been heavily rewritten, so if something does not work, please report - either here or to @trub.

    I am getting a file corruption when editing CONFIG.SYS.  I'm using SDXImage.exe via wine/linux.

     

    CONFIG.SYS exactly as I have added the change at the "DEVICE SIO" line

    803746177_CONFIG.SYSbeingedited.thumb.jpg.6bb46f188f0ea069135095d9d5265fc5.jpg

     

    Reviewing CONFIG.SYS after editing has been completed

    1422982314_CONFIG.SYSafterediting.thumb.jpg.8102ccb27629c40fb96b57693cfb33cd.jpg

     

    2 Bytes appear to be added to the beginning of the text while 1 or more bytes are removed from the end.

     

    -SteveS

  17. 19 hours ago, Beeblebrox said:

    Happy new year everyone!:grin:

     

    Inspired by the amazing winter images others had been posting leading up to Christmas I started running this last week and resumed it over the last day or so. I liked the colours in the source image, in particular the reflection on the water.

    Ran it for way longer than intended. Few line errors across the sky. No mask used.

     

    Winter sunset (although it could be sunrise too!:D

     

    Source image decreased to 256 colours and resized to 320*240. Preprocessed in Irfanview with RGB lines and contrast/saturation/gamma tweaked

    Filter = bicubic
    pal = atari800winplus
    color dis = yuv
    initial state = smart
    no of solutions = 10000
    Threads = 09
    preprocess = yuv 
    brightness = 2
    contrast = 50
    gamma = 0.9
    dither = floyd
    dither strength  = 1.0

     

    3+ bill evaluations

    82 unique colours

    Filename: Beeblebrox_Wintertreesunsetsm2_08.xex

    (image grab from Altirra with pal high artifacting enabled)

    Beeblebrox_Wintertreesunsetsm2_08.thumb.jpg.fd957e331da5002dc1861893ac6d3427.jpg

    Beeblebrox_Wintertreesunsetsm2_08.xex 22.05 kB · 7 downloads

    I attempted to convert this image some time ago.  I was almost happy with it.

     

    Link

     

    [Edit]

    IIRC I was unable to generate a presentable PAL version

  18. On 12/17/2021 at 2:36 PM, Gitbizy said:

    Can you all pretend like I haven't tried to get the ATR-8000 into CPM mode since 1984 LOL.

     

    I need baby steps .... YIKES.

     

     

    I haven't found an ATR-8000 disk in my collection so those may have been lost.

     

    Do I have to hook up something to the RS232 port to test RS232??

     

    AS far as the basic LPRINT test.

     

    I hooked up the 130XE to the ATR.  Powered on both.  (left HD cable off the ATR)

     

    I hear a "brrrrrrrrrrr" sound 

     

    On the 130XE at the READY prompt, I typed in LPRINT

     

    I heard a short "brr" then it returned to READY.

     

     

     

    I'm convinced your ATR8000 is alive.   

     

    I suggest simplifying your testing. 

     

    Start with your 5.25" drive.   As the The_Doctor suggested make sure the floppy cable is connected correctly.  Pin 1 on the ATR8000 is on the right hand side.  cable's pin 1 must connect to pin 1 on your floppy drives's connect.

     

    My ATR8000 has an unkeyed connector making it very easy to invert the cable connector (bad).  Some ATR8000s have a *keyed* connector but since some cables are unkeyed it's still possible to make a connection inverted.

     

    Next check your 5.25" drive.  Since during the test the drive will be the only one on the cable it should have a resistor network.  Some drives have a DIP package others have a SIPP

     

    The drive should have jumper DS0 (Drive Select 0) set.

     

    There must not be a flip in your cable.

     

    Connect the drive to the ATR8000 placing it at the end of the cable.  I realize this may possible as your cable will likely have a 34 pin IDC header connector(s) for the 3.5" drive(s) and also a 34 pin card edge connector (for the 5.25" drive).  Do not connect the Atari at this point. Power up the drive.  Power on the ATR8000.  The drive should reset to track 0.  It's a familiar sound.  If this doesn't happen the drive is not going to work (yet).  If it doesn't I'm sorry I don't have enough experience to troubleshoot at this point.   My ATR8000 has not failed me since I acquired it in 1983 or 1984.

     

    Assuming the above test worked I would like you to prepare a new bootable floppy using your Happy drive.  MyDOS will work.  It's easy to change densities.  Type 'P" (Pick Density).  Change disks and format the one you insert. The reason you want a single density disk is it it guaranteed to be be compatible (assuming all drives are in working order and baring alignment issues with one or more drive) is it is guaranteed to work on the ATR8000.

     

    Disconnect the Happy from the Atari and connect the ATR8000.  Hopefully the new disk will boot.  If everything is working it should boot.  If the test earlier worked then the ATR8000 should at least try to boot.  Let us know the outcome.

     

    Good luck.

     

    -SteveS

    • Like 1
  19. 1 hour ago, kheller2 said:

    can you get into CPM mode?  Any way to download a driver or something just to make sure the ATR8000 is communicating and working on a basic level with the 130

     

    One of the ATR8000's basic functions is to be a print spooler.  If you type LPRINT in BASIC and don't get an error then the spooler is running.  At least the ROM, RAM, and Z80 are all good.

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