puppetmark

This means the small electric motor that turns the tape reel. Russg said it better than me,"Turn the motor on, with the data sound off (65,0) and if it plays music tape, the 1010 is OK."

From Antic: The Atari cassette system is based on two-track stereo. One track is used to record programs and data by means of audio tones (one frequency for 1, another for 0). The other track can be used to record and play back normal audio. You need to do your recording on another cassette recorder, as there is no provision for the 1010 (or 410) recorder to accept a microphone. You can turn on or off the cassette motor from a BASIC program with two POKEs: POKE 54018,52 to turn the motor on, and POKE 54018,60 to turn the motor off. When the motor is on, any sound on the audio track will begin to play through the TV speaker. You can use timing loops to synchronize your program with the recorded sound. The audio track can also be heard during tape operations such as CLOAD, but will be mixed with the normal tones you hear during CLOAD. Use POKE 65,0 to turn off the sound of the data track. You will need to use a stereo cassette recorder to mix programs and sound on the same segment of tape. With that said, I would load BASIC, get an audio cassette and try turning off the data track sound and poking 54018,52 to turn on the cassette motor and listen through the TV or Monitor speaker to determine if audio is playing correctly and clearly. If it is, it is unlikely that the problem is the 1010

As much as I would like too, I want to have a decent stock before we let any go. Right now we are doing some final testing, but It shouldn't be too long until they are ready

I sure do! there were three articles, The first couple showed how to hook up a servo to the joystick port. There were program examples for BASIC and FORTH You can still find them here: http://www.atarimagazines.com/v2n9/Anatomyofrobot.html http://www.atarimagazines.com/v2n10/RobotHuggedYouToday.html http://www.atarimagazines.com/v3n2/languages.html

No worries, I just appreciate you taking the time to do it. -And I understand what it is like not having enough room for collecting!

I would like too, or at least look into it. The case is the real issue, very expensive to fabricate molded plastic. Maybe we can get something close using stock enclosures or maybe bending plastic. After the ethernet carts are done, I will do some research. I like the wireless idea, but if you hack a wireless 2600 joystick into ANDY, you will loose his sensor input, the microphone and photocell. The joysticks are only "one way:" the arm is a good idea too. Hey FND, can you tell me what the part number the inverter is in the schematic? (it's the triangles in the top left section) maybe a 4069? And how about the markings on the inputs to Pins 3,7,4 on the 4028. They look kinda like little houses and they might be marked J something?

Yea, that's it!! nice. I didn't know he used that many batteries! That's a lot of weight for a single motor. That's very different and much more expensive to manufacture than ANDY. I am really having fun with this thread!

That's great to see them side by side. I didn't realize the eyes were different and Andy sits higher on his wheels too. I remember seeing a picture of the underside of FRED. It had one motorized wheel mounted on a disk that would turn close to 360 degrees to change his direction. That way he could move instantly from front-back and left-right at any position. I think that's why the pen is in the front and not centered with respect to the drive wheels. I think it's really cool how they re-used the Parts from FRED to build ANDY. Many of the Androbot robots were scrapped or lost, at least some of theses made it into the real world! Thank you again for sharing this info.

the pictures are awesome! thank you. This is the best I have ever found on Andy, and I have been looking at Androbot / Axlon info for years. Can you create an ATR image of the disk? I think it is important to have the software archived. There aren't many copies left. having the schematic is awesome too! Do you have a higher resolution image of it? I could design a replacement robot that would work with the same software! sort of an Axlon Andy reboot. lol

@flashjazzcat: we could put a tiny fan in there, but who would want a seperate PS for the cart. lol. Thanks everyone. I am excited about getting them done; It should be soon. I got some more build this weekend.

I have used one of these fot the last couple of years, and It works quite well. It's compactl, and works with composite and s-video eBay Auction -- Item Number: 190568039787

Yea, that's true, A robot with an Arm would be much more useful. I have also given thought to building just a new interface to an exsisting robot kit Even something like this wouldn't be too hard to interface: http://www.super-science-fair-projects.com/owi-8800-kabuto-mushi-robot.html Eventhough I think this kit has been discontinued, I like the idea of the claw for moving objects around.

I always wanted an Andy ever since I saw it in an Antic magazine back when. It is almost the same as Androbots FRED. I bid on one of the e-bay ones, but I lost. Interfacing a tethered robot through the joystick port is not really that difficult. I have often thought about building an "equivelent" robot to Andy for the Atari. It might not be all that useful, but it would be fun!! <br> My problem with most DIY robot projects is no matter how cool they are, and some of them are really awesome, usually look like a pile of exposed circuit boards and wires. So, if I design something, I want it to have a really cool shell, like the androbots which I think had a lot of personality. With some recent advances in plastic manufacturing, I think it might be possible to have something like that made in a short run and still be cost effective.

Are you putting a heat sync on them inside the case? There is enough air space around the chip, so that's not necessary. (passive cooling) Also, that bottom of the cart is open and that helps too. We have tested the cart extensively, and have had no overheating issues.

Good thought. The IP dragon boards I just received came with the header pins unsoldered so it would certainly be possible to have the pins on top. I think that's what the developers of the apple ethernet cart did. Fitting it into an exsisting cart would be way cool. Thanks for the input. suggestions are always welcome. I guess for some reason you weren't able to use the pins comming out the other side so you could fit it without the jack comming out the front? Candle is right, and besides the cooling issues, I couldn't make it fit that way with the other components that needed room on the PCB.

I just updated the site with the info I posted here and a few more pictures. More to come. www.atari8ethernet.com

Yep. Compared to a "normal" cart shell, The shell is just longer, very close in thickness, and bit less wide. Here is a link to the shell, you can download a technical drawing: http://www.pactecenc...d=51&classid=27 BTW, it took several days and samples to find a workable shell!

Because a stock Atari cart case is too small. I am using a small instrument case. I just cut the end off to make it into the cartridge case. It fits fine in the Atari computers, and it was MUCH cheaper than having something manufactured. You only notice it in the picture because of the way the light hit the plactic when I took the picture. I might try rubbing a bit of acitone on the edges to blend, but at the moment it is a minor issue.

We are making progress on the Dragon (ethernet) Carts. We have all the parts to build the first batch. I have build a few and they are being sent out today for a thorough testing. We were hoping to start selling the carts in fall, but due to my work schedule, I just haven't been able to put enough time aside to get the carts built. The fault is mine alone, and I appologize to everyone who has been waiting. I now understand why many of theses projects take so long, and some never get completed. Anyway, We really want to get this done, and I am reorganizing my life and steping up production in the upcoming weeks and when I get a better handle on the building, and the testing, I will let everyone know where we think ordering will begin. Also, I am going to put some updated info and pics on the website this week. Here are a few of the latest pictures taken while building the Dragon Carts:

<p>I did the upgrade using the instructions posted here and it works great. I got the CO25953 from Best Electronics.

Good point, I am not infringing on their ability to sell their retro-wares.

So..... as I read this thread, two questions come to mind: 1. if I already own an Atari 8bit computer, then why can't I legally use the ROMs to run an emulator? 2. I recently had a lot of labels printed for the ethernet cartridge project, and it has the Atari Fuji on it. Should I remove that and have them re-printed? Can I use the word "Atari" on the cart or am I still going to get one of those "letters" from Atari?

What is baffling to me, is the fact that Atari is killing off their core market by ticking off the commuinty that has kept their name alive when there was no Atari!

Merry Christmas everyone! And a happy and healthy 2012!

Is that all that is needed to use an old PC style keyboard on an ST /Falcon? Is there some kind of software needed?