hbomb

If you rescue Steve Perry, you get: 1. Tickets to every geriatric Journey concert that is left. 2. A date with Sherry from the "Oh Sherry" video. She was hot, but she may be a little long in the tooth now adays. 3. 3 pairs of stretch leggings that were worn in the Seperate Ways video. 4. A copy of the movie "Heavy Metal" where the animated chicks were obscenely hot and the song "Open Arms" premiered. 5. Finally, a large steak that you used to put over your black eye when you got your butt kicked in middle school for secretly liking Journey versus Ozzy or Van Halen. Just kidding of course. I used to have the game and can't remember for the likes of me what happened at the end. I do remember liking the game though. And the Journey theme song isn't half bad for the Atari's capabilities.

Well, I did take them apart again and loosened the screws to the PCB as CPUWIZ suggested and it worked! So now I have one controller that completely works and the other one almost does, but it still has one directional issue. I ordered a new PCB from CPUWIZ, so hopefully that will correct the problem. I'm glad it wasn't a wire issue. I guess the second one could still have a wire issue from the directional problem if the new PCB does not work. Funny how I'm repairing these so I can store them away for my collection. I'll get some common ones to actually play with. I'm trying to figure out the best way to glue this Atari hex disc back on the joystick boot. Any ideas?

I have been trying to fix one of my Heavy Sixer Joysticks, and was talking to the guy at Best Electronics. I mentioned that I had a CX-10 joystick that I was trying to find some replacement parts for. He stated that in his 22+ years dealing with Atari parts, he had never heard of a CX-10 joystick, and that all Atari joysticks since day one were CX-40's, only modified over the life of the console. I'm a little confused as to which is what. Now I did stick a CX-10 PCB into a CX-40 joystick and it worked. However, it doesn't work the other way around unfortunately. Can anyone shed some light on what this guy was talking about at Best?

I liked it much better as a kid than I do today. Probably didn't know any better at 12. The graphics and sound effects are good, but the game play blows. Everything is blinking all over the place and your spaceship disappears everytime you hit the fire button.

The console itself is not so rare that you can't find them on Ebay from time to time. If he has the original joysticks, see if they still have metal hex discs on the top that say "Atari" on them. If so, now you are talking RARE!

Can anyone give me tips on repairing two CX10 joysticks? The fire button or directional was not working on one controller, but was working on the other. I took both apart to clean and try and fix the one. The springs looked good on both controllers as did the six electrical connections to each joystick PCB. On the first controller that works, all I did was take apart and clean with a q-tip and alcohol. I did not remove the six electrical connectors. The metal contact pieces on the PCB looked good and functional. I put it back together and now it does not work. The second controller that did not work, I took it apart and cleaned with a q-tip and alcohol. I noticed on the PCB that the metal contact pieces had been flattened. I took a very small flathead screwdriver and gently popped them up a bit to get them functioning again. Then after looking at the board's comments on joystick repair, I decided to swap out the PCB with another CX40 joystick that I had. The operation was successful as all of the six connectors unhooked and hooked back up again easily. They were not damaged and I did put them back in the right order. I put it all back together and the CX10 joystick still does not work. Funny thing, the CX40 joystick still works just fine with the CX10 PCB installed. Does anyone have any tips or things that I should look for or line up that I may have missed to get these working? The problem doesn't "seem" to be with the PCB's, but I could be wrong I suppose. These things seem to be so simple and yet so aggravating. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks!

Sounds like either your stick is cracked or the little flex metal peices (forget what they are called) have gone flat on ya. You can bend them back into shape or use your cx-40 ones. What I mean by the stick being cracked is the white joystick shaft has a white circle at the bottom of the plastic that hits the contacts on the board of the joystick and sometimes they are known to crack or bend to the point of poor contact. Worste case buy one of those 10 dollar joystick repair kits off ebay and make your Hex one all nice and new. Hell for a controller that is now worth $75+ I think another 10 bucks is a good investment Do you happen to know the best way to bend the flex metal pieces back in shape? I have the rectangle ones on my CX-10's and they are flat. Thanks!

Thanks for the info guys. I'll be taking it apart tomorrow night and let you know if I'm going to need any replacement parts.

Well, I thought I'd update everyone on the Heavy Sixer w/box that I bought from Goodwill for $40. First off, the box is in amazing shape. It is the original (Chess Head) box and has no rips or tears, no holes, and no stains. The heavy sixer console's cart port looked a little messed up in the picture because the top of the case was not aligned correctly as there were no screws in the console. I put it back together with screws and it is perfect. I also hooked it up and it worked like it was new! The joysticks were original CX-10's, where one worked perfectly and one didn't. I have to figure out how to fix it, but none of the original orange trim paint was gone from either controller. There were no paddle controllers which sucked but I can find them some other time. By the way, I would buy again from Goodwill. I did pay a premium price for shipping but they boxed and bubble wrapped it very well. As a matter of fact, the box that it came in was probably a foot longer in total than it had to be which was great. Anyhow, the gamble worked and its a great system! Thanks to the OP for pointing it out.

Well, I finally was able to find a pair of CX10 joysticks so that my Atari hex disc has a home! Unfortunately, one out of the two joysticks does not work properly. The joystick will play in one direction, but the other directions and the fire button are not working. I did a search on the forum and saw the post about cleaning and repairing your joystick, but I'm still not sure what needs to be done. Can the parts of the CX40 joysticks be substituted for the CX10? I didn't want to waste money by buying the wrong parts. Any ideas? Thanks!

Definately a heavy. What's up with the grain on the front? Is it just the picture or is it actually a grayish color?

Well, like I said, I do have another heavy for a parts swap. Thats IF the box looks as good as I think it is. IF it arrives here without getting demolished because the people at Goodwill could careless about collectible shipping. And IF it is blown up and doesn't work. Realistically, it could have simply lost a screw over the long haul and shifted around a bit. It's actually kind of exciting to find out what's going on with this thing. I could have gotten a great deal with minor repair work, or Goodwill could have just taken me to the cleaners for $40 plus shipping. For the record, I really hate Goodwill. Any company that financially capitalizes on donations when they could be going to people who really need it should be kicked in the crotch. I mean, how great of a time would some homeless guys have playing Atari in some alley somewhere? It would beat out Mad Dog 20/20 or Night Train wine anyday!!

I remember playing this game somewhat roughly 25 years ago. I do remember it being a lot of fun, but what did I know...I was about 11. I guess the let down of this series is that you need to go through Waterworld in order to finish the game and accomplish the final goal. I don't believe Waterworld was ever completed, at least not to the point where any of us will get our mits on it. So, the quest can never be finished. From memory though, I remember it being pretty cool. I never had Fireworld though.

I'm kind of seeing your point. I just asked Goodwill that they ship the Atari box in another box to avoid any damage along the way. Keep in mind that I paid $26 for shipping. The response was that I'd have to pay another $26 in shipping to get another box. Otherwise its simply considered oversized. Funny how I've mailed out a few consoles and the max it has ever cost was $18, packed in another box, and shipped priority mail. Let the box come in damaged due to their packing neglect and they won't see a dime. I paid with VISA!!!

Now that you mention it, the cart port does look a little odd. It looks cockeyed. I'm trying to think of what could have made it that way if it is indeed crooked. I have another heavy. If needed, can the cart port be exchanged out? I can't remember from when I had it apart before. The box looks pretty good from what I can see, and as already stated, the joysticks look original as well as the power supply. I might have to do some cartport surgery if possible. Who knows, maybe another hex disk will fall out!

I couldn't resist. I bought it virtually sight unseen. I'll let you guys know how it works out. Keeping my fingers crossed but looks like a nice unit and box. Thanks for the heads up!

Anyone have these two games in box with instructions and in good condition for a modest price? Please PM me. Thanks!

Same here. I've only seen it on Coleco Vision and its similar to Missile Command with a twist. Sounds to be a hack of some kind as I can't cross reference anything even remotely related on the net. And no definitive Atari games lists have it on them. If its not a lot of cash, I might get it just out of curiosity.

Defender was a big let down for me. I remember spending lots of allowance and orange picking money on this game only to find it sucked mammoth testes. The graphics were ok, but the gameplay was horrendous. Your ship disappeared when you fired and the cluster alien ship when hit, broke out into this 4 dot sprite thing that moved as one. Just very disappointing overall. I didn't mind Pac Man at the time. I think I even played ET and didn't really care.

Those games are high on everyone's list I would imagine. You might want to list your games that you would be willing to trade for them.

I'd probably try and fix it myself if you know exactly what the problem is. But that's just me! I have one of those cold to instant hot solder guns which are fantastic and makes soldering very easy. I'd probably try to solder it back and see what the results were. I could always go back and desolder or whatever it took to fix it, as long you aren't messy. Last resort would be to take it somewhere just as long as you are careful. It might cost just as much to get someone to repair it as to find a used one to use or for parts. These repair places usually charge a flat fee no matter what is wrong with it, at least in my experience. I had a switch problem with my Colecovision and eColeco wanted $50 bucks plus shipping to fix..and that was a flat fee. I only paid $18 for it. So I took it apart and fixed it myself. Good luck!

Some heavy sixers have a date on the back of the switch board (behind the RF modulator), but beyond that there may also be a 3- or 4-digit production week code hiding somewhere. Also, the ICs are probably all week-coded (of course, the console would have been made after the last of those, as long as none has been replaced with a newer part). Come to think of it, the main board had '5C' stamped on it. I'm not sure what that stands for if anything. It looked as if the machine may have been put together by hand? The black circular cushioning around the switches were definately hand cut as they were all a different size square and a bit uneven. Definately not machine cut or prefabricated. Pretty cool. I would like to get some new switches as a couple of a minor bit of corrosion that I couldn't get off. Any ideas on what will get it off or where I can get some original switches?

For the record, I believe my joysticks that came with my heavy are CX-40's. I took them apart to see if they were imprinted with the model number but I found nothing but springs and cords.

Try an RCA to S-Video Cable. It should to the trick I would imagine.

Thanks. I know when I was cleaning it that the faceplate pops out. Would it be easier to just get another sixer faceplate that's in better condition and trade them out? Would it have to be a heavy faceplate or would a regular sixer due?