Major Havoc USB controller

[Major Havoc USB controller]

Things are finally starting to move along. I'm probably still 2+ weeks out. I still have to:

 

- Calibrate/test each controller

- Make/print the mounting templates

- Assemble the mounting hardware

- Print up a few more boxes

- Put a video together showing it in action

 

All twelve units are now accounted for!

 

When I started out on this project I was trying to make a more cost effective Major Havoc roller controller that would easily work with MAME. It wasn't as easy as I though it would be (a lot of trial and error), but I think I've achieved what I set out to do. The price for this controller is going to be $75.00 plus shipping (includes hook-ups for two buttons). To put that in perspective, that's a quarter of the price of the current offerings for a controller like this. I will be contacting every person on my list when I'm ready to ship. After that, I guess I will start a new list.

 

For now here's a picture I took of all the assembled Master Havoc USB wheel controller units:

 

Yes, that's 13 units. One is an extra for myself. I personally like the "Red" controller. So as you guys can see, one person did want a controller with a different colored wheel. Unfortunately, nobody wanted a "Black" wheel.

 

So, more to come...

 

[Anyone built their own MAME arcade cabinet?]

1 hour ago, Max_Chatsworth said:

KLOV?

Yes KLOV.com under the forum section. Did you click on the link I provide in my post?

 

KLOV stands for Killer List Of Video games. The forum over there is dedicated to Arcade video game machines however they do have a section on emulation which is where I posted my Thincade topic.

[Anyone built their own MAME arcade cabinet?]

Well, I've made a couple MAME cabinets, but I they are not the universal type. I made what I called "Thincades". I have a topic over on KLOV for it.

 

 

Here's a link to the topic (on going project):

ThinCade: DIY arcade project.

[Major Havoc USB controller]

On 3/23/2021 at 10:09 AM, pboland said:

Slow. I had some issues with my 3D printer and I have to reorder/spec some new parts as the ones I was wanting are no longer available. My new target is April. Sorry for the delay guys.

 

Parts finally came in. Obviously I'm not making the April time line.  I started working on them just this week. I have decided to officially name the controller "Master Havoc USB wheel controller". I'm also playing with the idea of printing up an official shipping box. I've made a few tests:

 

 

Anyway, there are a total of 10 interested people for this controller. I have the parts to make 12 and the ability to make more in the future. I'm guessing a few more weeks and I will be sending out messages to those interested people. Stay tuned...

[Major Havoc USB controller]

On 3/20/2021 at 11:22 AM, negative1 said:

Just checking back to see how things are going.

 

Any progress.

 

later

-1

Slow. I had some issues with my 3D printer and I have to reorder/spec some new parts as the ones I was wanting are no longer available. My new target is April. Sorry for the delay guys.

 

[Xybort (WIP)]

15 hours ago, atari2600land said:

Just watched a YouTube video of a guy getting 400,000 points on Xevious. It's just the same setting over and over again, and there is no boss. So I guess my game will be different in those regards.

Being different is better. That way you are keeping with the OD2 tradition. Similar to an arcade game, but different (i.e. Pick Axe Pete, KC Munchkin, UFO, & Alien Invaders-Plus).

 

[Xybort (WIP)]

Neat concept! The only top down scrolling game (sort of) I can think of on the OD2 is Alpine Skiing. I haven't tried your wip yet, but I like the concept.

 

Of course there is also "Freedom Fighters", but that's more of a side scroller (sometimes, depending which controller you use).

[Atari 2600 Cartridge replacement labels]

On 1/27/2021 at 2:40 PM, Pong 001 said:

Could you please send me a list of your replacement  atari 2600 labels, I would like to replace all my old labels, thank you

 

1 hour ago, imstarryeyed said:

Those labels look great I totally needs some new ones too.. Curse old carts for putting the opening screw underneath the label.. haha

 

Please check your PM's. I sent you guys a message.

 

[Major Havoc USB controller]

5 hours ago, RetroGamersHub.com said:

I’m interested in getting one as well. Would have to be the green one. Thanks.

Hi RetroGamersHub,

 

I've got you down for one controller with green roller.

[Major Havoc USB controller]

21 hours ago, DaveFB said:

Hello - I'm late to this discussion BUT I would take any color.  I'm a Major Havoc nut.  The hours spent enjoy this games is some of my best gaming hours.  

Hi DaveFB,

 

I've got you down for one controller with green roller.

[COMPUTER INTRO! Can I do this?]

On 1/23/2021 at 7:28 PM, Airshack said:

Very cool and good for you! This being an assembly intro cart makes it more interesting than a really limited BASIC intro cart.

Thanks!

So far the programing manual is set-up to program in hex first. That's where all the explanation is done. The assembly is listed at the end of each program mainly as reference. I've been trying to enter the programs both ways (mainly to try and understand each function). The more I work with this cart the more I'm starting to understand. And to be honest the harder it's looking as if I would ever be able to make a functioning game. There is just so much to keep track of.

[COMPUTER INTRO! Can I do this?]

1 hour ago, x=usr(1536) said:

 

My recollection is that they aren't the same, but by the same token it's been quite a while since I would've been poking around in that neck of the woods.

 

Try this: if you have the Speedway / Spinout / Crypto-Logic cartridge, start up Crypto-Logic.  Enter a word with both the letters 'Y' and 'N' in it; see if it works.  Now try the same word again, substituting 'YES' and 'NO' for 'Y' and 'N'.  I'm reasonably certain that 'YES' and 'NO' will not appear as 'Y' and 'N'.

I just tried the Crypto-Logic game. The game see YES & NO the same as Y & N. No difference.

 

[COMPUTER INTRO! Can I do this?]

22 minutes ago, x=usr(1536) said:

I want to say that at least one of the Master Strategy games used them - The Great Wall Street Fortune Hunt, possibly.  I think Blackjack may have as well, but it's been a long time.

 

Out of curiosity, what's giving you the Y/N output for YES/NO keypresses?

Well, I'm not 100% sure those key are truly identical. I was playing around with the "Addition - Program C" program and even though it's meant for numbers I was pressing letters just to see what would happen. Each letter had some kind number assigned to it? (Hex code maybe?) The key "Y" would return the same number as the "YES" key. And the "N" and "NO" keys returned the same number as well. Again, I don't know if this is 100% proof, but at least in this little program those were seen as the same key press.

[COMPUTER INTRO! Can I do this?]

Very small update/comment,

 

It looks as if the "YES" & "NO" keys are the same as the "Y" and "N" keys. At least based on the output I'm seeing. And from what I can tell those are the only duplicated keys on the keyboard.

 

Were any games made that used the "YES" and "NO" keys as input?

[Major Havoc USB controller]

On 1/18/2021 at 1:29 PM, negative1 said:

how is this coming along.

 

would be interesting to put this in the new arcade 1up Tempest machine eventually

for major havoc.

 

later

-1

I will be focusing on this in February. It takes time to print out the parts and I still have to purchase more mice PCBs, but February will be the month for these controllers.

[is the 7800 necessary?]

is the 7800 necessary?

Yes, No, maybe so?

If you like it: Yes

If you don't like it: No

I think it might be that simple of an answer.

Maybe a better question would be "is the 2600 necessary if you have a 7800?"🤔

[COMPUTER INTRO! Can I do this?]

On 1/8/2021 at 12:40 AM, Airshack said:

I’ve need to revisit this gem. Of course you can’t store anything you write so strike one.

 

I seem to remember output being limited to one row/line so strike two.

 

The manual was fascinating and it really was programmable. Always remember it as being cool to do something nobody else could in the 70s.

 

Great imagination fuel.

Yes, you are correct about not storing programs and the one row output. To be honest I don't think the storage issue is really that much of an issue. The max size of program you can make is only 100 lines (00-99) and since the commands are quite small it doesn't take that long to input a program. At least from what I've done so far.

 

One line output is fine by me cause it's less to worry about at my level of understanding.

 

I have started using this cart. I thought the membrane keyboard would be terrible, but to my surprise it isn't as bad as I thought it would be. I'm not saying it's great or it wouldn't be better to have a real mechanic keyboard, but it really isn't as bad as I thought it would be. My guess is because we are all use to pushing buttons on a glass screens these days. It helps that my O2's keyboard is quite sensitive too. So, I don't have to push that hard.

 

I've only made it to the second program in the manual, but I'm currently playing around with what little of learned (modifying the code to change little things here and there).

[Asking opinions on controller mod ports]

8 hours ago, Airshack said:

Considering other consoles of the day I’d say the O2 controllers were pretty good. Better than: Coleco, Intellivision, Atari 5200 AND 7800.

 

Call me crazy but I kind of like the stock controllers. 

I'm right there with you. The stock O2 controller are actually quite good. I'm guessing that most who don't like the O2 controllers were exposed to the Atari 2600 controller first and because of that they feel that is "normal". As a kid our family had O2, not Atari. When I would play an Atari 2600 at my friends house I always thought the 2600 controllers were too stiff. To me (as a kid) they didn't move. The O2 controller actually moves.

[COMPUTER INTRO! Can I do this?]

I've always wanted to be able to program a game for the OD2. The problem is, I know nothing about programming. So, I'm hoping by using the COMPUTER INTRO cart I will have a little bit better idea of what it might take to program a game for the system.

 

Yes, I know this cart is just a primer and you really can't program a game with it. I'm just trying to get my foot in the door with programing for the OD2.

 

I've read that COMPUTER INTRO is actually quite good for what it is. I'm not sure how much (if any) of this cart really applies to actual OD2 programing, but I thought it would be a good experiment to see if a total non-programmer can truly follow it and if it really helps to get me closer to programming a game (1978 style). 

 

So, I guess this topic is going to be me documenting my progress and if I have any issues (hopefully those in the know can help)

 

I don't know, it might be a total waste of time, but either way it will be interesting to hear others thoughts on the COMPUTER INTRO! cart and what I'm trying to do.

 

One other thing, I had to print out the huge manual for this cart as I don't have the original spiral bound manual. I do however have the three panel reference Flow chart "thingy" (technical term)🤪

 

[Any sources for Jaguar overlays?]

4 hours ago, Clint Thompson said:

@pboland

 

Curious, are you in the U.S. and are they coated like the originals? Would you mind posting a pic of one sometime? 

 

Thanks 

Yes, I'm in the states. My overlays are made a little different from the originals. First off, my overlays are not embossed. Second, mine are laminated. So instead of a paint like coating of the originals mine have a white plastic laminate. No paper based materials are used to make these overlays (100% plastic). The printing is 100% protected on both sides so, nothing is going to rub off.  Here's a couple pics:

 

 

[Any sources for Jaguar overlays?]

I offer reproduction overlays and cart labels for the Jag. I do have a minimum order. All overlays and cart labels are computer cut to size. If you are interested or have questions please PM me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Happy Birthday Al!]

Happy Bday Al!

Thank you for all you do for the Atari community and for this website.

[NES revival hit brick wall.]

4 hours ago, Silverfleet said:

I've found that after disabling the 10NES chip that some of my games still didn't work. 9 times out of 10, it was because the cartridge connector was downright nasty. Disassemble them with a security bit and clean with a mild cleaner. I used to use Brasso before I knew better, which can strip the plating off the connectors. I switched to Barkeeper's Friend and that works great. It's more of a liquid than a paste/cream, and it gets the job done without screwing up the cart.

Never heard of using Barkeeper's Friend, but I've used that for other things. I might have to give that a go myself. Cool idea!

 

I normally just use an ink eraser to clean the contacts of a cartridge. That has always worked for me. A lot of times you don't even have to take the cart apart.

 

 

[NES revival hit brick wall.]

3 hours ago, Grinllord said:

Does anyone know where I'm going wrong with improving my NES? I've owned it since new but it's been in storage for 15 years until recently.

Some of the games worked but intermittently. The first thing I did was cut the pin to the NES10 chip which worked. Then I manually bent the pins on the cartridge connector for a tighter grip and sprayed some WD40 branded electrical contact cleaner on the cartridges. This helped a bit.

Then I removed the 72 pin connector and boiled it as recommended elsewhere, and cleaned the motherboard connector with a fibre pen, then wiped it with nail varnish remover and cotton buds. Since then it hasn't loaded a single game. Just a grey screen.

I bought a new 72 pin connector, and cleaned every cartridge with the nail varnish remover and cotton buds, but still no joy.

I'm wondering if I've left deposits on the motherboard or cartridge connectors with the fluids I'm using?

The WD40 contact cleaner does say it's non-conductive, but that's why I used the nail varnish remover to clean afterwards. I have alcohol cleaner as well but I haven't used that yet.

Considering flowing some solder onto the motherboard pins, and then running desolder braid over it to keep the solder area small and flat.

Any other ideas?

I noticed you didn't mention anywhere about cleaning the cartridge contacts on each of your games. Both the edge connector and cartridge contacts need to be clean in order to work properly. Just doing one over the other doesn't always work. Just my two cents.

[Odyssey 2: Under Appreciated?]

23 hours ago, bah said:

The Odyssey 2 was cancelled too early in the US.  Try playing some of the later games released in Europe.  Atlantis (uncommon here), Demon Attack (again, uncommon), Frogger, Q'Bert, Super Cobra, Tutankham (proto), Spiderman (proto), Loony Balloon, Air Battle, Blobbers.  I also love many of the modern homebrews.  The system was under appreciated because it was killed off before reaching it's full potential. 

After Xmas I'm hoping to buy some repro's that I saw from this topic:

 

Odyssey2 reproduction cartridges and manuals for sale

 

Thanks for reminding me.