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Found 63 results

  1. Sparing you all the backstory I'm once again in need of an Atari 7800 system. I'm hoping to find one in very good condition with no chips or cracks and minimal scratching on the chrome bezel. I would prefer a composite video modded system but would settle for a system with regular RF output if the system was in exceptional condition. Price wise I'm pretty flexible and am open to negotiation but I would prefer not to spend more than $120 shipped on a compsite modded system with power supply or about half that for a system with RF output. Again though I am open to negotiation based on the condition of the system being offered. Thanks for taking the time to view my ad and feel free to shoot me a PM if you happen to have a system that you think I might be interested in.
  2. I'm selling new 6-foot joystick extension cables for use with anything that uses DB9 connected joysticks / controllers, including Atari 2600, 7800, 8-bit computers, Colecovision, Genesis, Commodore VIC and 64, Atari ST, etc. $6.50 each ($12 / pair) + shipping. PayPal accepted for payment. PM with shipping address if interested and I'll send you a total. Thanks!
  3. Check out the pic and send offers my way. All fully tested, cleaned and work great! All have manuals but Mario Bros. Looking to sell as a lot. Thanks!
  4. After a financial SNAFU back in January that resulted in my Atari 7800 collection getting liquidated I've managed to get myself another 7800 system as well as my previously owned Edladdin Super Twin 78 back and would like to start rebuilding my Atari 7800 game library. That said, here's a little list of the games I'm looking for and the prices that I'm willing to pay for loose cartridges in good condition with no rips or tears on the labels (The icon denotes the games that are my top priority to acquire first): Alien Brigade - $35 Asteroids - $7 Ballblazer - $12 Centipede - $7 Crossbow - $6 Desert Falcon - $8 Dig Dug - $5 Donkey Kong - $10 Donkey Kong Junior - $10 Food Fight - $6 Galaga - $8 Ikari Warriors - $20 Joust - $7 Mario Bros. - $14 Midnight Mutants - $30 Ms. Pac-Man - $4 Ninja Golf - $30 Pete Rose Baseball - $18 Rampage - $20 Tower Toppler - $7 The prices above are before shipping costs and I can pay via PayPal. Thanks for taking the time to view my WTB thread and just shoot me a PM if you happen to have any of the games I'm looking for and would like to sell.
  5. frankodragon

    Fat Axl

    I've posted this in the Marketplace but maybe some don't know about it yet. It's a Fast Food remake called Fat Axl for the Atari 7800. It's based on memes of Axl Rose from Guns 'N' Roses well-known for his bad behavior. Now since he's the lead singer of AC/DC, there have been images posted of him being fat and he's even threatened Google to take those images off. The game is rather simple as you are Fat Axl and you eat hamburgers, tacos and beer while avoiding Slash and poodles. Don't ask me why he hates poodles, he just does. (Google "Axl Rose hates poodles.") Time after time, you'll see "You're Getting Fatter" messages. You have three lives and if you collide with Slash or Poodles, you'll lose a life. Lose all lives and the game is over. I've programmed this game with 7800Basic. It's nothing fancy- just a silly game to play until Axl Rose threatens me with a cease and desist order. Retrogamer81081 was kind enough to upload a review of the game: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VXk5v4tRn0
  6. Hello Everyone! This is my first blog post ever here on AtariAge, and I'm excited to be on here! Let me introduce myself. My name is Chase, and I am a seventeen year from Ohio. I have been playing and collecting Atari 2600 games for 3 years now and I have never felt more passionate and happy playing simple games compared to the high resolution, highly complicated games of today. The 2600 seems to pull me in with simplicity and the appeal of playing games that have shaped the game industry into how it is today. I have used my Atari 2600 (a four switch Woody) more than my Ps4, and I actually love my Atari more than my PlayStation. I want to start up a YouTube channel reviewing games and potentially talk to the people who programmed them. I hope to have a fun time on here and I can't wait to share my passion with others and hear stories from others who grew up with the console I love. I will mostly will be talking about the 2600 on this blog, mostly about games. Which ones I love, which ones I think are ok, and which ones I don't really like. I might also dabble in the 5200, 7800 and the Lynx and Jaguar. And one question to end this blog: Which Atari 2600 launch title is your favorite? Mine is Indy 500, followed by Surround.
  7. nicknickuk

    IMG 0715

    From the album: Raspberry Pi Custom Atari case designs

    My Raspberry Pi case inspired by Atari 7800. Black metal case and I designed the centre vinyl sticker faceplate using paint Shop Pro
  8. From the album: Signed Stuff

    Sick Pickles - Back of cart signed.
  9. Hello, I was wondering. I can hire a joystick builder to wire a joystick. I’m just trying to find out what is the better route. My fight stick his separate wires for each Joystick Direction, button ground, voltage and a miscellaneous "other wire", like what the Xbox 360 needs. and then gets sent into a Brook fight board. (It actually has 11 buttons and 4 directions, it’s easier to go down than up.) Thanks to the fact that the brook stick is easily removable with a DB25, I was wondering if either the Atari 7800 or the 2600 Booster grip is as simple as wiring discrete buttons to pins, meaning a pin representing a direction, button, ground or voltage is straight wired from the DB25 discrete to a pin on the DB9. I know the basic 2600, Astrocade, Master System, and Neo Geo are simple one pin = one function hookups. I understand I could have a straight-wire hookup to do those systems. I understand systems as early Intellivision and Colecovision had "coded" joystick signals, so those are hard without PCB knowledge unless you hack an existing PCB. The 7800 and the 2600 booster grip are two weird beasts. Atari 7800 has buttons that split to 2 pins and one pin that is a combination of 2 buttons. Is that as easy as a simple wiring job with no coding and no PCB, or do you need some sort of "OR circuit" to make the 2600 button work. I don’t know if an Or circuit is as simple as wiring it, or if it needs intelligence. My joystick guy is charging $2 a 2-way pin hookup. With 4 directions, 2 buttons, a ground and a voltage, that should come to $16. That would be cheaper than a Edladdin Genesis->7800 adapter, and I don’t have to split up my shipment between myself for the 7800 and my joystick maker for the Colecovision. But I don’t know if uilding a discrete 7800 adpater would work. Also the 2600 booster grip has digital buttons actuating an analog paddle signal. Is that a simple wiring function too, or does THAT need some circuitry for it to work to convert a joystick signa to a paddle (assuming they are different I hear it’s an analog voltage between zero electricity and the maximum allowed electricity, [i won’t pretend to throw around words I don’t understand] so if it’s as simple as actuating a maximum, it’s just like taking the dimmer switch away from a circuit: it becomes a simple on/off circuit.) I also notice the pins are similar in a 2600 booster grip and a 7800. Can one device work for both? Or is it better to make 2 separate ones.
  10. Anybody have Pete Rose Baseball CIB for the 7800 that they are willing to sell? In actuality, all I really need is the box, as I already have the game and manual and currently am using a 2600 box but am ready to upgrade to the real thing (which is also larger in size). eBay has one in awful condition right now for $50 and a sealed copy for $100. Reastically, I would be willing to pay somewhere in between those two. Does not have to be sealed, and like I said, I would also purchase just the box, if that is an option. Thanks!
  11. Its been a little while since the last update. When can one expect Prosystem 1.4 to be out? If it does come soon, I hope it has light gun support as well as at least marginal atari 2600 backwards compatibility, and slightly better sound emulation on some games, like some POKEY tunes on Ballblazer, as well as the music in Super Skateboardin'. What happened to the Prosystem creator anyway? Is he still active, or is he on hiatus for now?
  12. Hey guys, I built a little stand for my Atari 7800. Thought if anybody might appreciate it (or have some ideas for adding to it, don't be shy), it would be people here.
  13. The UAV is a great thing. You can find the details here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260267-the-uav-rev-d-video-upgrade-thread/ The single board can be used in virtually every Atari 8-bit console and computer. But since there are differences per machine and per UAV revision, you have to know exactly which wires, jumpers and pins are really relevant for your configuration. The long nature and discussion in the main thread make it hard to find the right information. Therefore I decided to create this separate thread. Things you have to know when installing the UAV Rev. D in an Atari 7800 PAL: You cannot rely on any of the NTSC descriptions, because the PCB layout of the PAL version is completely different. You do not have to remove and existing parts from the board for the UAV itself. You may have to remove parts to grab the audio correctly, but that is a separate topic and not related to the UAV itself. You have to use the UAV BASIC Rev. D board without connectors because there is no driver 4050 chip in the Atari 7800 but a 7432 chip which combines the video signals from TIA and MARIA into one. Basically you grab most of the required signals from the resistors connected to the 7432. You will typically not be able to read the Rxx, Cxx labels on the populated board. Therefore is it important to know where to connect what. When connecting to resistors, use a meter to check the value of the resistors to make sure you are at the right place. The Atari 7800 PAL schematic from Jerzy Sobola is very good, but incorrectly states R29 to be 12k but it is 82k. I have created the attached pictures and the corrected version of the schematic for this. The yellow points indicate the solder points on the PCB, Note that on the "wires 1/2" pictures the yellow and orange wires were yet at the wrong pins on the UAV board. Use the ones in the "UAV Points" picture.
  14. I want to know which game consoles were the best competitors of the Atari 2600,5200 and 7800
  15. Add this one to your NIB 7800 collection! Looking for $100 shipped but will consider all reasonable offers. I could use some cash after dropping wayyyy too much on a huge XEGS bundle and associated XE game purchases... I took pictures from all sides. I know the pics are rotated incorrectly - you have the AtariAge uploaded to thank for that! When is the new forum version getting installed, again? Haha...There is some box crushing present, as is common with sealed games after all these years. There are a few locations where the seal has a couple of holes/breaks, most notably on the bottom of the box (near the UPC code and also on the left side, opposite the UPC code (same bottom side). I'm assuming it's NTSC since I'm in the United States but there's no way to tell with sealed games, and I'm not about to open it up and test it! There are three cart-only listings right now on eBay that will set you back between $62-70, so I figured $100 would be pretty fair. The last NIB on eBay sold a couple months back for $120. Hit me up with interest or q's.
  16. Someone thought it would be a good idea to run two concurrent cart-only Commando (7800) listings. Talk about a gift to bidders! Here are the two listings. Not mine (obviously): https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183339172198 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183339173240
  17. Was curious what 7800s were going for these days and find it hard to believe this bundle sold today for $180, albeit with free shipping (yippee?)...the box is beat to shit and it is untested. Incredible! Think it is the homebrew scene fueling these insane prices? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283015728268
  18. To achieve a match of NTSC_A7800_CRT.pal under MESS 0.148 (Currently downloadable from here), make the following adjustments from default, ensuring hlsl is enabled: red_ratio 1.000000,0.300000,-0.300000 grn_ratio -0.150000,1.000000,0.150000 blu_ratio 0.150000,-0.150000,1.000000 saturation 1.500000 YIQ is disabled (As it is broken under 0.148) regarding the above values. Only title badly affected by this is Tower Toppler. If using another version of MESS with YIQ enabled, the above numbers need to be tweaked accordingly. If you fall into this category though, you're likely making adjustments to your display preference anyway including palette colors. MESS 0.148 has accurately stored the RAW video output of an NTSC Atari 7800 and you adjust video to personal preferences and experience as seen fit via slew of the video tweaks available. HLSL effects with all the bells and whistles turned on can require a relatively respectable graphics card. For just changing the above with no additional effects, a less powerful one is required. Most cards from the last 5 (Even as far back as ~7) years of a mid-level or better performance should suffice. See here for more details. To simplify things further for MESS here are all the files (BIOS, artwork, etc.) and basic settings you need for the palette NTSC_A7800_CRT working with hlsl. You want to unzip this archive in the same folder as your MESS executable: MESSA7800BASIC.zip Here is the same set of files with screen curvature, overscan, and scanlines: MESSA7800BELLS.zip Hope this is helpful.
  19. Need only instructions for some 7800 games: - Mean 18 Ultimate Golf - Ikari Warriors - Moto Psycho Anyone?
  20. Well since everyone's talking about Atari 7800 mods, I decided to make one of my own. I took the other mod posted earlier by Puppetmark, with the 1 transistor amp and modified it slightly- namely changed the 75 ohm resistor to 68 ohms since I had it. The aim of these two mods is to make your 7800 infinitely more useful while retaining a "stock" appearance. There's no hot melt, glue, epoxy or electrical tape needed! The plastic 7800 enclosure is not cut or filed at all! There were several different purposes for the mods I performed: The A/V mod obviously adds A/V out and replaces the stock RF only output. The modulator's RCA jack is reused for video, and a second RCA jack is added where the channel select switch used to be for audio. The mod does indeed worth with Ballblazer and other POKEY games. The power mod performs two separate functions: The first is to replace the original proprietary power socket with a more standard "barrel" style plug. The original 7800 enclosure appears to be designed to accomodate these and they probably had them in mind before changing to someone proprietary. The other major feature of this power mod is reverse polarity protection. If somehow power is reversed (wrong adapter, etc) it will not fry the 7800! Here's a picture of the finished mod. There's no other changes to the outside appearance except on the back. For the A/V mod you will need: 1 68 ohm resistor 1 2.2K resistor 1 3.3K resistor 1 2SC945 transistor (this is an extremely common transistor found by the dozen in old VCRs and TVs or it can be ordered) 1 RCA jack 1 piece of 14 gauge house wiring (no insulation) 1 piece of hookup wire, I used 26 gauge PVC jacketed phone wire For the power mod you will need: 1 coaxial power socket for power (the kind that fits barrel plugs) 1 1N4001, 1N4003, etc. 1A diode 1 ferrite bead, no wire (optional) Tools used: Dremel 1/8" drill bit desoldering tool or braid soldering iron sharpie marker ------- Part 1: the AV mod! Step 1: remove the modulator! I removed it using a desoldering gun, but wick should work. Try not to damage it since we're going to re-use parts of it. You can cut the 4 pins coming off the modulator's PCB if you like, these are not being reused, only the metal shell. Step 2: Take the bottom off the modulator. It just pops off; make sure the solder is off the 4 metal pins on the box portion. Step 3: Remove the PCB. Desolder the little coil from the RCA jack. Next, wick off the solder holding the PCB to the box (2 places). Step 4: stick a wire through the hole indicated in the box, and solder the end to the inner contact of the RCA jack. Step 5: Snap the bottom back on the box and set it aside. Now it's time to remove the parts off the PCB we will not be using and replace them with new ones. Step 1: Remove Q1, L2, L3, C3, C4, C5, C9, R3, R4, S7 as indicated. I desoldered these my desoldering gun, but you could use wick. Try not to damage the holes since we will be reusing some of them. In a pinch you could cut the parts off and remove the leads one at a time. Step 2: Desolder ONE end of R5 and R6, then bend R6 over to the right so that the "free" end goes into the bottom hole of L3. Bend R5 over next to R6 and solder it to R5 on the L3 end. Step 3: Install a 2.2K resistor into C4. Install a 3.3K resistor into R4. Install a 68 ohm resistor (I used 1/2 watt, but 1/4 watt should be fine) from the top hole of C9 into the top hole of C5. DO NOT cut off the 68 ohm resistor lead that is poked through the top hole of C9. We're going to hook that up later. Install the transistor into Q1. Note that it goes "backwards" from the PCB markings. The flat side faces AWAY from the flat side shown on the silk screen (PCB marking). Next, solder the modulator back down and connect the wire coming out to the top pad of L2. Connect a wire from the top hole of the modulator's connections (near where it says "RF1" on the board) to the end of the two resistors going into the bottom hole of L3. Step 4: Here's where the end of the 68 ohm resistor gets connected. Bend it around as shown in a half circle and solder it to the end two part leads poking through in the row. This is ground (both are so I just soldered it to both). Step 5: solder a short jumper wire between the bottom holes of R3 and C9. Now we're going to install the RCA jack for the audio. I bought these ones from Electronic Goldmine (their part number is on the bag) back in 1996 or so, so I am not sure if they still have 'em. nearly any RCA jack will work. change hole locations in that case. Step 1: Put the RCA jack on the board for a test fit. I used the middle hole of the switch holes to put the signal pin of the RCA jack. This means I have to drill 3 holes to mount the jack. Step 2: I am using the two holes from the switch that are closest to the edge of the PCB for the RCA's mounting tabs, along with one I marked with a magic marker (the blue dot near where it says "S7"). Step 3: Using a 1/8" drill bit, I drilled three holes: the one I marked and the two from the switch. Step 4: Flip the PCB over and scrape the solder mask (green coating) off the the big fat ground trace that was drilled through. This will give the solder we're going to add a place to stick. Step 5: Push the RCA jack through the holes drilled. Step 6: Bend the tabs over to hold the jack in place. Step 7: Obtain some 14 gauge house wiring and strip it down to the bare copper. Bend the end in a hook like in the picture so that the middle of the bend touches the middle tab of the RCA jack, and the left end of the 'hook' touches the left tab of the RCA jack. Step 8: solder the left tab to the thick wire, then solder the wire to the middle tab and ground route, and finally cut it to length on the right and solder it to the right tab on the RCA. Use plenty of solder like I did. This last step ensures a very strong secure mounting, and the RCA jack will break before it will come off or damage the PCB. The RCA jack should project through the former channel select hole. So now your 7800 has a bitchin' A/V mod! ------------------- And if you are sick and tired of the crappy custom power socket on the 7800, here's how to fix that, too! Step 1: Remove J5 and FB2. Step 2: Obtain a coaxial power jack. This one takes 2.5mm barrel plugs which is very common. (think Genesis, TG-16, NES, etc). Step 3: Mark the holes we need to drill on the PCB by putting the jack on there and marking them with a marker. I used the middle mounting hole from the original 7800 jack as one of my mounts. Step 4: Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill the three holes (the two marked and the existing one). Step 5: Cut the trace on the top of the board as shown in the purple squares- This is Vin and we do not need it shorting out to our socket we're installing! Step 6: Install a 1N4001 (or 1N4002, 3, 4, etc) 1A diode where FB2 was, cathode (banded end) facing the large capacitor. I installed a ferrite bead on the anode lead but this isn't really necessary unless you have some. Step 7: Install the plug into the holes drilled and bend the tabs over on the back side of the board to hold it. Step 8: Using a knife or dremel, cut the ground route that goes to the original 2 pin power connector as shown in the box on the bottom right picture. This would short out our input voltage otherwise. Step 8: I soldered the positive tab from the connector (the one on the end nearest the 2 pin connector's holes) to the 2 pin connector's holes with a generous helping of solder. Step 9: Using the house wire, I soldered the remaining two tabs from the power connector to the ground route near by. This gives good mechanical support so it won't break off. Here's a bit better view, sorry it's kinda hard to see. The final step is soldering a jumper wire from the transistor on the left to the lead of the capacitor on the right. This replaces that route we cut under the power connector. That's it!
  21. lulrik

    atari 7800

    From the album: lulrik collection

    Atari 7800 SECAM and SCART

    © lulrik

  22. Is this auction from a few weeks back to be believed? $985 + shipping?! It appears to be complete with all inserts and it's an A1 unit. It has the first-run (purple with checker box) manual, but the later iteration box. This just seems, I don't know, maybe $700 or so beyond its value, unless I'm missing something? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Vintage-Atari-7800-Electronic-Arcade-Video-Game-Console-System-NEW-IN-BOX-/192895450472?hash=item2ce976fd68%3Ag%3AzpkAAOSw8kFcuQjK&nma=true&si=wD26bMChdQY5vi21h40iB9LxpI8%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
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