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  1. I recently purchased a Panasonic 1984 and a Sanyo 1990 CRT TVs on eBay and am having trouble getting either of them to activate Atari. Can anyone give me any solutions to this problem? No matter which channel I turn to, nothing responds. By the way, I have an another CRT TV with Coaxial connection to play with on channel 2, so I think I know how to use it at least. Thank you! Shinji
  2. My RGB SCART cable for my PS1 just arrived earlier today. I won't deny, the difference in clarity and overall quality of colors is immense. I think it is pretty understandable for us retro gamers to naturally hunt for the highest quality video output we can, or perhaps aim for an experience that accurately recaptures our childhoods. However, there is one key element that advocates for higher quality video cables almost never mention: dithering. Basically, it's that checkerboard-y pattern you see in the vast majority of PS1 games. If it's a 3D game, it will almost certainly have it; especially if the game in question has a darker color palette. The reason why the developers added dithering was to fake additional color depth that simply wasn't possible with the hardware otherwise. You know how certain games such as DOOM on PC have a very visible dark color gradient the farther the distance is from the player? That's called color banding. It's when the gradient of colors isn't smooth, and you can clearly see the color go from brighter to darker, and vice versa. A smooth gradient doesn't exhibit this, and it's one of the biggest advantages when working with a higher color depth. Again, this simply wasn't possible on the PlayStation's hardware. Some of you may be thinking "but wait a second, didn't the PS1 support 24-bit color?" and you'd be absolutely correct. A 24-bit color depth allows for 16.7 million possible different colors. However, it wasn't feasible for the hardware to calculate such a high color depth for fast 3D graphics. In reality, most games on the PS1 were actually 15-bit color in gameplay (32768 possible different colors), and 24-bit in still images (such as title screens). Sony was very aware of this technical limitation, so they included dithering as an option on the hardware to combat this — it was built-in. In turn, many developers used this to combat the otherwise extremely visible color banding that would be present. And this is where composite video comes in. Due to its nature, composite video will naturally blur two adjacent colors together. What this means is that the dithering pattern is far, far less noticeable when using a composite video cable. ESPECIALLY when paired with even the most basic consumer CRT. What you see instead is a very smooth gradient that will fool the human eye into thinking it is seeing more colors than it actually is. It's extremely clever. Of course, this has other affects as well. We all know that composite video is by no means known for it's clarity. As such, 2D elements tend to suffer, such as text. But on a CRT, it has the potential to look superb. While developers were often working with Sony PVM/BVM monitors that supported RGB, unless you lived in Europe, almost no one had access to RGB video. Sony and the developers knew this, so they took advantage of the limitations of composite video for the aforementioned reasons. It's a classic tale of genius engineers making the most out of limited hardware. To summarize: Composite video does a great job at hiding the arguably ugly dithering pattern present in almost every PS1 game It's far more accessible and easy to get a hold of for a reasonable price Many consumer CRTs support composite, making it easy to get into if you're just starting to get into retro gaming It's convenient As for me, would I switch back to composite now that I have an RGB cable? Well....
  3. I have a 2600 that won't come in on my TV. I have the RF plugged into an RF>coax adapter and into the (CRT) TV and when I turn it on the TV static goes wild but no picture. So I know it's getting power. I cleaned the game. I tried both channels 2 and 3 and even did a channel search but still nothing. Any suggestions? Could it be a bad adapter? I know the TV is fine because I just used an NES plugged with RF earlier.
  4. Has anyone ever made a Pantone PMS color set for the Vectrex CRT Phosphor color at various brightness control levels? Visible low. Medium. Bright without blanked lines. Very Bright with everything shown. Very Bright with everything shown.
  5. I have only one CRT that play all my pre 480i signal system well, a Sanyo TV flat screen CRT (and my 1979 Hitachi that do a bit of color bleed and can't be seen well now in the day as the black is now light gray). If that one die i am screwed. On a Sony trinitron (and my RCA-thompson TVs) only the C64 display ok (perhaps that is 480i also). All 240p system show different "dotted" horizontal section 1 pixel high that seem to be influenced by color or contrast (on edges mostly). In 2600 pacman, the first line of the screen is all doted and some pixel can be seen in some places. In outrun on genesis, the top line of the windshield is dotted. I can't seem to find a solution to allow all my systems to display fine on all my CRTs. It's already a pain to shop for one, imagine shopping for one not creating the problem. Trying to pass the signal into VCR don't help. I suspect some kind of interference with 2 identical line of a 240p signal with a slight delay between them. I can't seem to see signal processor for sale that do 240p composite to 480i composite. I also only see 240p to HDMI and never 240p to 480p without and hdmi out. Lot of my CRT (later ones) have a 480p (component connections) even if they are 4:3 but i would love a solution for those that are only s-video or composite IN.
  6. I think I found a way to enjoy better gaming for every RF ntsc based later system, except for the few light gun games for the 7800 2600 which don't work when converted to computer monitors. I got something called an MTV box which takes RF input and converts it to VGA output. there are two different VGA ports a circular one and a keystone one and a cord that goes from one to the other I assume those two are functionally identical. The main issue I have is the RF port. I tried using an F-Type male and an F-Type female and neither worked. Someone at Best Buy told me it was a BNC female connector. I bought a BNC male connector it does not fit. unfortunately Best Buy does not let you send pictures to their help to help diagnose something. Thankfully atariage does, though it's staffed by volunteers which could be a good thing. It is for something I found called an MTVBox. This weird antennas standard is preventing me from enjoying it. If someone wants me to, I can take a picture of the standard and showing you that BNC male does not fit nor does F-Type male nor does F-Type female.
  7. I'm just wondering if other people felt as I do. Like for example in Street Fighter 4, I noticed I was able to pull off dragon punches with my left hand, when before only a right-handed joystick could pull it off for me. And also does it seem like combos were easier to execute in Street Fighter 3 and before, despite the fact they were not given to you, yet in Street Fighter 4 they give you monster combos and the only way a reasonable person can unlock them is by practicing against a dummy. So it seems like they eased up on joystick accuracy, and in return weekend special moves, while they made button accuracy more important, compounding it by knowing lots of people play on a non crt tv, and paid it off with unblockable combos of Killer Instinct length and power, yet KI has a breaker as a combo defense, and SF doesn't. But it's not just fighters. Before December 2012, I was playing on a component CRT and was doing pretty well in Super Meat Boy. But as soon as I switched to a Sony PlayStation 3D TV, which was considered one of the better modern TVs at the time, I sort of lost the consistent feel to make consistent progress and I'm stuck on the last level before the final boss. Now the question becomes is HDMI naturally laggy, or could you transfer an HDMI signal to a CRT monitor and have sub microsecond ping? First of all, for most games, I don't need ping that accurate. if I need something that accurate I'll do my light gun streams downstairs and leave everything else upstairs. As a test, I tried an HDMI signal both through a Hauppauge Rocket and directly, and noticed no difference. And Hauppauge claims a maximum of one millisecond ping. Yet I noticed if I hook up an analog VCR in between the game and the TV, the light gun's aim gets thrown off a few pixels to the right. Finally I have a test to see whether those 1 millisecond gray-to-gray monitors can pass my quick ping test that I can only do on a CRT monitor,. and that's getting a Michael Larson like score on a flash version of Press Your Luck. I tried it Best Buy at first I thought I failed but I found out that that app adds delay. I got to find the earliest version, with no ping added. So for now, TN monitors are inconclusive if they're low ping enough. Plus I read the real delay is 10 milliseconds on most of them. Based on this test it seems resolution change and TV drawing technology contribute most to delay. I bought 2000 era CRT VGA monitor and I'm trying to figure out whether it's better just as an HDMI low-paying alternative, or weather lower-resolution consoles pre HDMI are better on a real CRT TV versus converting from composite component S-Video or RF to VGA. Most people say if you go from HDMI to VGA CRT that the screen is squished and you have to use manual monitor controls to get it in the proper a show yet letterboxed. Now the question becomes how well does a VGA CRT monitor work for classic gaming. In the two biggest issues are ping (for the purposes of playing anything except light gun games and maybe Sega scope games), and the look of the TV image second. First probably this would all be moot if the monitor does not have multiple settings so I could switch between native 4 by 3 and native 16 by 9 input to a 16 by 9 output very easily. Keep my mind it's going directly from a classic video game output to a VGA with no computer processor in the middle as far as I could tell. And if a processor was used, would that add enough delay to throw off a non light gun game.(I'm okay with throwing off a light gun game. I'll move to a more direct TV if that's the case.) I've seen my old iMac do a fairly clean picture to a Sony wega when an S-Video cable is plugged into the back of my iMac. And it beat the Monitor and I was able to play Press Your Luck and get a Larson like score. But some people say taking a 480i or 240p Game source and pumping it in VGA makes very big scan lines therefore are hard to play when the black sections are bigger than the colored. Also before I read about other stuff I found for cheap three of the four scart cables I need for Genesis, SNES, Saturn and Dreamcast, the only four systems that could do scart natively without a mod. AndI found a SCART to 3 RCA red green blue connector. How do I tell if the three RCA is RGB or ypbpr? and how do I tell if the system scart cable or the scarf to 3 RCA connector is for the true European SCART or the Japanese equivalent? I heard they're physically the same but plug the wrong one in and TVs could get burnt.
  8. SmellyJelly

    CRT Setup

    From the album: Smelly's Setup

    Here's my setup with all of my cart games and some of my consoles. From clockwise starting in the top left we have the Pikachu Nintendo 64, Sega Dreamcast, Playstation 1, Toploader NES, Model II Genesis, and a 4-switch Atari 2600. They all get their use, and I constantly am making sure the area itself is clean/dust-free.

    © SmellyJelly

  9. I'm trying to restore an arcade cabinet from 1983. The CRT monitor is shot and honestly, I'd rather have an LED/LCD screen in it's place. (Don't get me wrong, CRT, when working, looks great) I don't know much about how to connect the monitor and most of what I see out there has DVI and/or VGA ports which are clearly not going to connect on an old system arcade cabinet like this. Will this work? https://na.suzohapp.com/products/accessories/49-3223-01 Does this need an adapter to connect it to the arcade machine? Thanks!
  10. From the album: CatPixtures

    TV N&B Schneider back panel
  11. From the album: CatPixtures

    TV N&B Schneider branding
  12. From the album: CatPixtures

    TV N&B Schneider tuning board
  13. CatPix

    TV N&B Schneider

    From the album: CatPixtures

    TV N&B Schneider working
  14. Hi folks, my first post on this venerable forum. My teenage self from ~3 decades ago would probably be dismayed by knowing I've joined something with "Atari" in its name - I was a die hard ZX Spectrum/Commodore fan - but hey, times, they're a-changin' Anyway, I was wondering if anybody else here has experience with using CRT TVs for emulated micros. I'm using mostly libretro versions of assorted emus (Retropie on RPi 3B+) and it's a bit puzzling getting the display right - I'm confined to composite (I also do have an RGB mod but no compatible TV at the moment), and also to add to the problem, it's a NTSC set. I'm not 100% sure what are correct resolutions to use in the configs. I'm aiming for 1:1 pixels and artifact-free display - so far using these... Atari 800 - 640x480- native libretro setting: this looks pretty good actually Amstrad: 768x544 - it works fairly well despite being bigger than RPi 720x480 output, the border is sacrificed C64: lr-vice same as Amstrad: 768x544. Seems ok. ZX Spectrum: 640x480: this resolution kicks in when I disable border (to get rid of heavy NTSC artifacting) While these look reasonably good, they do not really match the resolutions from real machines I read about, eg C64 displaying 402x292 (or 320x200 with no border) http://codebase64.org/doku.php?id=base:visible_area Could this be improved somehow? Or are these really real resolutions? Is there any sort of way to display these without problems on NTSC as well? Games are either too fast in NTSC or jerky in PAL, plus on some micros the colours are out of whack. Even though some of the emus have option for NTSC machines.
  15. TV has been tossed. Thanks for your time!
  16. This is a question I've wondered about for some time. I'm interested to see what the averages are for displays people use to retrocompute. My displays have averaged from about 212 to 220, with various monitors and televisions (never used an LCD). The current monitor I use displays about 220; It's a JVC BM-H1300SU Studio Monitor. I'm not looking for exact numbers, obviously, since this poll just allows for even numbers to be selected. It's close enough for me. Use the attached executable Atari image file to make your determination by getting your upper and lower numbers and then subtracting the upper from the lower for the total. For those with quite curvy monitors, you can adjust your numbers accordingly to reflect visibility at full width if you like, but it's not necessary. Selections are available for the various types and both NTSC and PAL: CRT Monitor (Real Monitors), LCD Monitor (of Any Type or Related Tech), and CRT Television. If you have monitors in multiple categories, you're welcome to enter as many as you'd like. If you'd like to post information about what monitor(s) you're using, that'd be cool too. Altirra diplays 224 scanlines for NTSC and 240 for PAL, and these are the dimensions you'll get when saving a screenshot with Altirra. Altirra - NTSC Screen Height.xex
  17. Attached are files and associated data that demonstrate how colors appear from various NTSC systems on a Commodore 1702 display with all controls at neutral/default; it is renowned for its rich, deep color depiction. Extremely similar if not seemingly identical to it, includes such displays as a Magnavox CM8762 (074G). Atari 2600: Atari 5200: Atari 7800: C64: ColecoVision: NES: Each system listed is provided with palette hex data as well as a palette file or/and respective RGB data. Palette files support such emulators as Stella, kat5200, ProSystem, WinVice, puNES, Nestopia, etc. Additionally, for some of the listed systems, there is source code modifications (denoted by a "!" in front of the filenames), included for the MAME emulator and corresponding forks. Trebors_C1702_Palettes_20171217.zip Results are very good when viewed raw, but most excellent when applied against NTSC/CRT filters and shaders if available.
  18. Since I have begun dabbling in programming for the Atari 2600, I have become interested in running a PAL system for testing purposes. I have one wood-grain 4-switch NTSC VCS, and there are multiple PAL VCS's for sale on eBay at reasonable prices. My main question is about displaying the signal. I obviously don't have a PAL CRT, and the only way to get one would be to pay a fortune to ship one from across the pond. Not to mention that I would need to power it with the proper voltage at 50Hz. I have heard that the Commodore 64 1080/1084 monitors will accept PAL signals, though (I think), but getting a PAL CRT is pretty much out of the question for now. I was thinking of instead getting a signal converter so I could display the picture on a NTSC CRT, something like in this video. It seems too good to be true, but could something as inexpensive as this converter be all I need? One other question. I noticed that my power supply converts from 110V 60Hz to 9v DC. If I plug a PAL system into a US wall outlet, will it work properly? Or will I need a different power supply? I would assume that both NTSC and PAL systems run at 9V, but I may be wrong.
  19. Since I have begun dabbling in programming for the Atari 2600, I have become interested in running a PAL system for testing purposes. I have one wood-grain 4-switch NTSC VCS, and there are multiple PAL VCS's for sale on eBay at reasonable prices. My main question is about displaying the signal. I obviously don't have a PAL CRT, and the only way to get one would be to pay a fortune to ship one from across the pond. Not to mention that I would need to power it with the proper voltage at 50Hz. I have heard that the Commodore 64 1080/1084 monitors will accept PAL signals, though (I think), but getting a PAL CRT is pretty much out of the question for now. I was thinking of instead getting a signal converter so I could display the picture on a NTSC CRT, something like in this video. It seems too good to be true, but could something as inexpensive as this converter be all I need? One other question. I noticed that my power supply converts from 110V 60Hz to 9v DC. If I plug a PAL system into a US wall outlet, will it work properly? Or will I need a different power supply? I would assume that both NTSC and PAL systems run at 9V, but I may be wrong.
  20. I have the chance -maybe less than 50 euros/dollars/pounds- to acquire one sony pvm crt monitor 20n5e, just for playing. Does anyboy have experience plugging a old console to this model? is it worth it? I do guess I'll need special cables for it to start with. Thank you
  21. MUNCIE INDIANA LOCAL PICKUP ONLY - MUST HAVE A TRUCK OR VAN this will NOT fit in your sedan; even if your seats fold down. Have a dolly/hand-truck. 37" screen, great picture and sound. Just replaced wheels and the speaker cones were all but dust;;; replaced with some $45 car audio speakers from Wal-Mart. The speakers wouldn't fit so I cut the holes bigger with a Dremel, not the prettiest job but you can't see that because the speaker covers hide it. They sound as good/better than the original speakers. See pics, the back has additional hookups for satellite speakers, though the built ins, I believe most people would find more than sufficient (miles better than the tin-cans TVs have now-a-days). The CRT has no scuffs/scratches. The console has some minor scuffs hardly noticeable, and one pretty good one on the top right (a few inches long). The glass door on the front works, but needs re-mounted properly. I'd not used it, and when I put it back on, I didn't have the proper screws/mounts so its not on super-sturdy, but easily fixed. Dual S-Video hookups; perfect for some old school gaming. The CRT is not removable from the console/cabinet - it's all ONE PIECE. It weighs probably ~150+ pounds; guessing. When you push it across the carpet, it's so heavy it wants to roll up your carpet if your not careful. It is 45 1/4" tall. 39" wide. 21 1/2" deep (at base). and of course the CRT is 37" diagonal. Looking for $100 even. Would trade for Atari 8-bit (800/xl/xe series; not 2600) stuff, nothing particular, but even if I already have, I love spares/extra I just don't have the room for this monster floor model :-(
  22. What do you hook your retro consoles into? I haven't had a CRT TV in my house for several years now, so I've been plugging into an HD TV for a while. But I recently bought a huge tube-type from a friend of mine for $20, and it's made a pretty big difference in my opinion. No black bars on the sides, the pixels aren't so sharp, etc. There's something so nice about living in a world where everything is "smart" and then plugging a console without an operating system into a TV without an operating system. What's your opinion? Does the kind of TV really matter to you? Do you prefer HD TVs for retro games?
  23. NOS or barely used, 24-29" CRT, NOT flat or line multiplied like Trinitrons, one of the slightly rounded standard ones that works best with light gun games. Do you have one or know where I can get one? MN, WI, IA, ND, SD for pick-up?
  24. I have 3 CRT TV sets that we need to get rid off. These would be great for old video game consoles and I wanted to give the Atariage community a chance to get them first. If you live on the North shore of Boston (Massachusetts) and are looking for a CRT TV for your video game collection this could be the chance are looking for. I am moving and we simply do not have the room to keep the TVs. The TVs all work, details below. 1] 20 inch MGA tv. This is an old TV that someone left behind at the location where we are moving. It is small and light weight. There are only two inputs: coax and a two-channel composite (has only video and single audio, like the original NES). I tested the coax and channel 3 looks perfect for gaming. The composite is messed up - maybe it just needs an adjustment, I don't know. But if you just want a simple TV that plays old Atari consoles, the coax input is all you need. 2] 32 inch Sony Trinitron SDTV. This is my TV I have been using with my video game collection. I bought this a couple of years ago from Salvation Army for $20. It is a bit scuffed up but It works. It is heavy and I can not take it with me when I move. You'll need at least two people to carry it. 3] The cream of the crop. 32 inch Samsung HDTV 1080i in beautiful condition. This is taking up a large portion of a room we need at the location where we are moving to. While the screen is 32 inches, the bulk of this TV is bigger than the trinitron and is heavier. You'll need at least two people to carry it. If you are interested in taking one, PM me. We would like them gone this weekend. We have junk dealers coming to take them away on Thursday morning if no one wants them.
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