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How would I to make any character in any A2600 game a two colored character? Like Pac-Man being orange and black, and the Mrs. Red and blue. What code do I need to alter to accomplish this? Is it the same way in other games as well?
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Does anyone know how the color effect of chetiry was achieved and if there is a bB kernel avalible? I am working on the japanese equivilent of it (hopefully that makes sence).
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From the album: Computer Food Coloring
These are the 16 MSX/ColecoVision colors rendered in McCormick food coloring. -
MSX Colors - Food Coloring Style
walker7 posted a blog entry in 8-bit Computer System Colors in Food Coloring
This is the second installment in computer food coloring. This time, it's the MSX palette. It's also used on the ColecoVision, and the TI 99/4A. Therefore, it could be called the TI palette. It consists of 15 colors and a transparent color. Color 0 is Transparent. Black: 8 parts Black Medium Green: 9 parts Green Light Green: 5 parts Green Dark Blue: 7 parts Blue, 5 parts Neon Blue, 5 parts Neon Purple Light Blue: 2 parts Neon Blue, 2 parts Neon Purple Dark Red: 30 parts Red, 1 part Blue, 1 part Green Cyan: 3 parts Neon Blue Medium Red: 13 parts Red Light Red: 5 parts Red Dark Yellow: 8 parts Yellow, 3 parts Red, 2 parts Green Light Yellow: 3 parts Yellow Dark Green: 24 parts Green, 1 part Blue Magenta: 7 parts Neon Purple, 2 parts Green Gray: 2 parts Black White: None The transparent color was achieved by using plain water. The medium used was Sargent Art Art-Time white tempera paint, which is opaque. And here's how it turned out: That certainly looks cool! It's pretty accurate.-
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Intellivision Colors - Food Coloring Style
walker7 posted a blog entry in 8-bit Computer System Colors in Food Coloring
Did you ever enjoy playing with food coloring? I did, many times. And that, plus my lifetime fascination with computers inspired me to come up with this blog. These are the 16 colors from the Intellivision, rendered in McCormick Food Coloring. It uses the standard red/yellow/green/blue, plus the neon purple/green/pink/blue, and black. Black: 8 parts Black Blue: 7 parts Blue, 1 part Red Red: 7 parts Red Tan: 2 parts Yellow, 1 part Red, 1 part Green Dark Green: 10 parts Green, 1 part Blue, 2 parts Black Green: 6 parts Green, 3 parts Yellow Yellow: 7 parts Yellow White: None Gray: 3 parts Black, 1 part Neon Purple Cyan: 3 parts Blue, 1 part Green Orange: 3 parts Yellow, 3 parts Red Brown: 7 parts Yellow, 6 parts Red, 6 parts Green Pink: 2 part Red, 1 part Neon Pink Light Blue: 1 part Neon Blue, 1 part Neon Purple Yellow-Green: 3 parts Yellow, 1 part Green Purple: 7 parts Red, 3 parts Blue And here's what they look like. Notice that they look kind of pastel, but that's because I used an opaque white paint as my medium. That does it for this segment. Next time, I'm going to render MSX colors using food coloring. -
Thanks to palettes that MrFish so kindly posted on another thread (here), it reminded me of this question: What would be some good universal palettes for 9 color gtia mode ? No Dli changes, no separate regions for different colors, any pixel can be any out of 9 colors. Besides going for simple solution similar to first 8 colors of C64 or Zx spectrum (Black, White, Red, Cyan, Purple, Green, Blue, Yellow) plus maybe Grey, what other combo would work well in some scenarios ? Something like platform game with lots of vegetation and earth would benefit from more brown and green colors. Something 'technical' in space would need more shades of grey for example. Bellow are example images scaled, cropped, converted to Atari pal palette and reduced number of colors to 9. My guess is that custom palette and new graphics could look even better. Turrican screenshot from Amiga: Dragon Ninja screenshot from Amstrad: What do you think ?
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Hi @ all, i'm new to atari 28 years old and my first console was a SEGA Master System 2. Atari 2600 was a few years before my time;) but i wanted to give it a try and have some retro fun. So i bought a big package containing a woodgrain light sixer, a Junior, 8 controllers and 35 games. So far so good... I connected the antenna cable of the Junior to my television (modern LG Flatscreen) and it worked perfectly. Colors and sound were all right. But the light sixer seems to have some problems. As far as i know they both use RF and both should output the same picture to my tv. But the light sixer just gives a bad picture with totally wrong colors (always the same way wrong.... see Pictures) or just Grey (and even that very poor). I tríed it on different channels (switch A-B on the console and different settings on the tv) and i even tried it on an old TV (also see pictures) Had anyone this problems too? Is something broken? What could it be? Can it be repaierd? I planned to do a AV Mod. I already ordered this kit (still waiting for it) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Atari-2600-7800-A-V-Composite-Video-Mod-Kit-NTSC-PAL-DIY-/171149875461?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d953d905 Could this mod help with the picture even if it's that bad rigjt now? I'm unsure what to do because the light sixer should already output the same Picture as the Junior... and if i do this mod and it's still the same the broken light sixer is even less worth and i put the work into it for nothing Any idears? EDIT: i only got one PSU with both consoles... no idear if it could make a difference... it's one like this http://www.konsolenkost.de/images/produkte/i90/9030262.jpg http://www.konsolenkost.de/images/produkte/i90/9030262-1.jpg EDIT: as far as i know my light sixer should be PAL. At least the seller told me that. Sadly there's no sicker on the back... how can i find out if the light sixer is PAL or NTSC? Any internal part that Shows this clear? If the console is NTSC i contact the seller and want my Money back.
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Okay folks, i'll appreciate any help or advice here. I recently got a "Light Sixer" Atari 2600 from an auction, together with 21 games. I later bought 19 more games for it over the internet. So with 40 games, armed with a pair of paddles, one old original joystick and one new 3rd-party lookalike i started checking the games out. A sticker on the bottom of the console itself tells me its made by "Atari-Wong Ltd" in Hong Kong with a long serial number and a list of patents and the model number "CX-2600 P" which i guess the P stands for PAL. I live in Sweden ( PAL-country ) so this is all fine and dandy. When i open up the console to clean it and check the "color-screw" i find a small sticker telling me "March 1981" or something, presumably the manufacturing date. The problems come when i start up some of the games i bought. I am sorry for the bad image quality but i took photos with my phone. COMBAT, Realsports Tennis, Air Sea Battle and Space Attack are all in black and white only, like the picture below. Sometimes i get a flicker of strange color when i turn the console on and off several times. As i understand it this is because these games are NTSC that somehow made their way over the atlantic and there is nothing to do about it. Now the real funny stuff begins when i put in games that supposedly are PAL: In "Donkey Kong" DK himself is a big green monster, Mario is dressed in brown and the floor is bright red almost pink. In "Bowling" the bowler himself has green skin like an "Ork" from Warhammer 40k or something. He's all dressed in pink, the pins and score is pink too and the floor has a color that looks like vomit. in "PAC-MAN" the background is eye-burning pink and Pac-man himself, the ghosts, walls and small dots are all white or gray. I usually play it in black and white with the black background instead. in "Berzerk" there's more pink. The walls are all pink, the robots are all grey, dark green or purple. The players character is bright green. However in Ms. Pac-Man, Jr. Pac-Man, Asteroids, Defender, Missile Command, another "Combat" labeled "Combat P" and some other games the colors are perfectly fine, while in others the colors are kind of right only slightly darker or in a slightly different hue. On my Flashback 4 i have "Bowling" and there the character looks more human and not green-skinned with pink clothes, other games have perfect color on the Flashback but looks off on the light sixer. I played the other games not present on the FB4 on an Atari Emulator and googled pictures of them and saw that the colors are completely different there with nice blue walls in "Berzerk" for example. I have tried opening up the console and turning the "color-screw" on the metal box but that only makes the game either black & white, saturates the colors to the point my eyes hurt or alters the colors to even more random and stupid ones. Is this normal for a PAL console? Is the "color screw" or my RF-cable busted? Are these games broken? Please help me!
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I am searching (good) games with more than 16 on-screen colors (excluding title screens): Alley Cat (22 colors) Alternate Reality (circa 38 colors) Decathlon (39 colors) Dropzone (18 colors) Flower Mania (32 colors) Koronis Rift (30 colors) Marbled (29 colors) Pitfall II (20 colors) Rainbow Walker (34 colors) Star Raiders II (22 colors)
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There has been many threads and topics devoted to the colors of WinVice on a variety of forums; particularly for the NTSC region. The developers have certainly done tremendous work with the emulator and it is commendable. Even relatively recently, the following was performed respecting the video display: http://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=596300#596300 It brought contrast and saturation to a default value of 1.250. It makes the current NTSC default display appear as follows: While indeed appreciated as a rather 'dull/muted' look is part of the issue with the way the NTSC display appears, there is another issue which was brought up previously that cannot be corrected properly through the video options offered via WinVice. The default red and blue ratios are not what many NTSC users experience. The worst and most evident being the amount of red applied to blue as noticed on the boot screen, but there are other issues as well. The testimony of many NTSC users on these boards as well as numerous online examples of the actual NTSC hardware running on official Commodore equipment (I.E. 1702) as well as other CRT displays makes this clearly evident: A shift of the tint value (More green/less red) will correct this (improperly) to a degree, but it also impacts the entire palette and will cause greys to look greenish as well as a slew of other undesired adjustments. Again, the main issue is red and blue ratio values, not something a tint/hue control can address the right way. So here is hopefully something to assist those NTSC users. This is not hand-picked or manually manipulated palette colors. Rather we take the default.vpl file values from WinVice and offer up the following comparison: Quickly looking over the chart especially the first three (Default, Default15, Default30) one may not notice much if any difference, but there is as we compare the various boot screens with the default and variety of ratio adjustments using the default user adjustable video option values of WinVice. *Note: All screen captures going forward are in the following order: default.vpl default15.vpl --> default30.vpl --> default15-15.vpl --> default30-30.vpl. Once an individual can figure approximately where their display falls in the spectrum, then other adjustments can be applied (Contrast, Brightness, Saturation, Tint). Here is what further difference the boot screen can appear with just contrast bumped up: You'll notice from the boot screen that the default15 and default15-15 does not appear to look different; ditto with the default30 and default 30-30. To truly notice the full range of what has changed and not changed (Or hardly changed) let's take two popular titles utilizing again the default user video option values: Bruce Lee G.I. Joe The differences from default and the four new default values should hopefully be much clearer. The issue (red/blue portions) is not unique to the C64 under the NTSC region. All three Atari systems (2600/5200/7800) and the NES (Both with vastly different ways of how their palettes are generated) experience a similar phenomenon. The only proper way to address it is with the option of modifying red, green, and blue ratio proportions, once a set of default values are obtained from the appropriate performed calculations. You'll notice that the percentage of 15% and 30% were utilized. Every 15% is where a very significant difference becomes apparent as highlighted in the captures. A higher percentage is possible but evidence of any online examples or personal experience of the ratios within a range greater than 30% is lacking. How to apply the different palettes: Copy the palette files to the C64 sub-folder found within the main folder where the main executable resides. (I.E. C:\WinVICE\C64) After copying the files you normally should be able to select them via the GUI interface: 'Settings' --> 'Video Settings' --> 'VICII Palette' tab. However, that appears not to work. An easy method is to just open the vice.ini file (Found in the main directory where the executable resides - i.e. C:\WinVICE) with Notepad and about a third of the way down you will find two lines: VICIIPaletteFile="default" VICIIExternalPalette=0 Change "default" to one of the new default files and change the 0 to 1. So for example if you wanted to try the "default15-15.vpl" file, the lines would be modified to: VICIIPaletteFile="default15-15" VICIIExternalPalette=1 Please make sure you save the file. Proceed then to launch WinVice and make whatever additional video changes you desire - contrast, brightness, saturation, etc. It would be wonderful to perhaps see these options/values incorporated and included in the WinVice distribution. To assist further and in aiding any who believe or desire to make manual adjustments to the default calculations here is the complete chart of palette values: Download the chart in Excel format here: CHARTDELTAS.zip Finally, the four new default palette files for WinVice can be downloaded here: WinVice_Default_Palettes_20131207.zip
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Download the palettes here [updated 8/30]: 2X7-PROSYSTEM_20130830.zip The '2X7-PROSYSTEM' palettes (25.7 degrees --> 26.7 degress --> 27.7 degrees)... NTSC: PAL: Why? Technically the phase shift of the 7800 is ~25.7; actually, 25.714 according to the math here... https://sites.google.com/site/atari7800wiki/rgb (Thank you Eric Ball). The reality though is most (all?) 7800 systems fluctuate the phase shift higher as the system 'warms up'; additionally there is a variable resistor which also impacts the ultimate end results. The color references affected the most - and consequently most noticeable - are values E$ and F$. At the 25.7 setting colors 1$ and F$ match near exact. To the naked eye they in fact look exact. According to the books this would be proper having a 180 degree color-burst resulting. However, even a new system I obtained within the last year does not stay at that degree. There is a deviation from it, resulting in the shift going higher than 25.7 degrees. The question is how much greater do we go? Simply stated, color F$ more realistically ends up between the hue of Color 1$ and 2$; darker than 1$, but lighter than 2$. If we set the phase two degrees higher (27.7) we end up with colors E$ and F$ as a near exact match of colors 1$ and 2$. Some systems, including one of my own, phases this much and even higher (~28.7) over several hours (To the point where E$ and F$ fall in between 2$ and 3$ in hue - and most other values almost look like they have shifted a complete row (I.E. 8$ starts to look like a 9$, 9$ starts to look like a A$, etc.); but now that is swinging the pendulum too far in the other direction. So, if 25.7 is technically accurate, but hardly remains the reality, and 27.7 brings too much of a phase shift to the palette, then a happy medium would be 26.7. Setting the phase to 26.7 we obtain a color F$ that is in between the hues of color 1$ and 2$. MESS, in fact, has F$ documented (Thank you Dan Boris) as a 'light orange' range, whereas 1$ is a 'gold' range and 2$ is a 'orange' range. Additionally, we obtain light browns from 1$, while now having darker browns set under F$. Looking at color E$ under the 26.7 setting, it falls right as a 'pea soup', the 'Linda Blair special', puke-ish green throughout; placing it in between a green and a brown color. Going back to 25.7 causes E$ to become a stronger green on the lower end, swinging the pendulum to 27.7 makes E$ a brown color. The often noted intension is for the E$ range to fall between a green and a brown; it is arguably better achieved at 26.7. The extensive work done in brightness, contrast, saturation with the literally hundreds of palettes created and viewed across half dozen displays, along with the input of the community, has helped achieved a nicely saturated and bright palette setting from the base values as shown above. That is easily adjusted and open to interpretation of course, so if you want something more/less saturated, brighter, etc...Just ask. Additionally, the "BASE" palettes are being included for those who perhaps just want the base values and/or like to self-adjust saturation, brightness, contrast, etc. BASE '2X7-PROSYSTEM' palettes (25.7 degrees --> 26.7 degrees --> 27.7 degrees)... NTSC: PAL: Unlike the GCCFINAL palettes, we are not looking to factor in a wide range of television tints or pot adjustments. These palettes presumes a properly calibrated/pot adjusted 7800 and a television which falls within a neutral tint setting - and expects similar from the monitor it is being displayed upon. It's almost a certainty that programming color choices were made on systems with a variety of phase settings as well. For instance, some games like Choplifter! and Midnight Mutants look better with a higher (27.7) phase shift, but others like Pole Position II and Joust look better with a lower (25.7) one. Here is a look at Choplifter! - (25.7 --> 26.7 --> 27.7): Notice how much better the sky and ground appear with a system that phase shifts higher. Here is a look at Joust - (25.7 --> 26.7 --> 27.7): Notice how bad the enemy bird wings look with a higher phase shift. They lose their green. Just to emphasize, the above are not utilizing any tint/hue control or manipulation. There is no manual changing of RGB values or proportions. This is not the same as a television display tint/hue control. This comes strictly from the console itself and is not a pot adjustment either. *Note to 7800 game developers: Avoid color E$ like the plague!* Interestingly enough, a 'perfect Fuji' (Enable the BIOS) demands '257-PROSYSTEM' - and it is the technically accurate ideal, if not actually experienced for a long duration of time. Here is the Fuji captured under NTSC (25.7 degrees --> 26.7 degrees --> 27.7 degrees): *The differences are likely less noticeable on a CRT especially when animated, but still worth noting* If you have a system that truly sticks to a 25.7 degree shift, it's covered here, as well as those going beyond, 26.7 degrees, up to 27.7 degrees. UPDATE 8/28: Received request for less saturated palettes. Lighter/less saturated palettes have been added. Here are the '2X7-PROSYSTEM-LT' palettes (25.7 degrees --> 26.7 degrees --> 27.7 degrees)... NTSC: PAL:
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Maybe this is a common and well known thing, but I'm wondering what is going on with my copies of Solaris on my 7800. I bought a loose copy at a flea market a bunch of years ago, and then bought a boxed copy online awhile later. I took the boxed copy out and plugged it into my non-expansion port 7800 I used back then, and it didn't work at all. Luckily, the loose copy did, so I put that in the box, and dropped the broken one into a drawer, just so I'd have it if I wanted to put the boxed set back together. Anyway, fast forward to me buying a soldering kit and needing carts to practice on. I wasn't sure if the one in the box was the good one or bad one anymore, so I took them both out to try them. Now, my current 7800 is a different one since my old one broke (something I am hoping learning to solder will fix), with an expansion port. And both Solaris games work now, sort of. However, the old "broken" cart has different colours than the other one. Here are both games (colours may be off a little because of the cheap camera and the cheap TV), but this is pretty much how it looks. What is going on here, and why was one completely useless on one console and only kind of strange on the other?
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I have a game that utilizes the pfcolors kernel. I cannot get the entire playfield to flash the "chalice" colors unless I disable the pfcolors kernal. For example, if I have this inside my loop: y=y+2 COLUPF = y with the pfcolor kernal activated, the playfield will not cycle through the colors except for a very thin line at the very top of my playfield. That thin line will cycle through the colors at the top of the screen. Then if I put the variable 'y' in the spots that specify colors for each playfield row like this: pfcolors: y y y y y y y y y y y y y y end ... Everything is turned one solid color Is there some way to get the flashing colors on the entire playfield while using the pfcolors kernal?
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What do you want? Atari 7800 colors... A. From a CRT TV...A7800_CRTTV.zip B. From a CRT TV with slightly less red, more green...A7800_CRTTVG.zip C. From a CRT TV with slightly less green, more red...A7800_CRTTVR.zip D. Direct from the console (For use in emulators which have YIQ/YUV CRT simulation), the raw base values...A7800_BASE.zip E. Simulate a system with color shifts when 'warm' on a CRT TV...A7800_WARM_CRT.zip F. Simulate a system with color shifts when 'warm' on a LCD TV...A7800_WARM_LCD.zip Side Notes: --------------- Three old palette sets renamed and three new ones added. Every group has a core palette plus 6 variations - 7 palettes total for a region within each group. A color chart for each palette was going to be included, but the smallest most practical size (x2 resolution) would have driven the size of each set from ~14KB to well over 500KB. For bandwidth and download considerations they are being left out. However, feel free to download the Color Demo ROM here: (Color Selector Demo (2003) (PD).zip It works fine for both PAL and NTSC, and the color charts will display. Absolutely, there is no definitive or final palette - but 42 different ones are provided here for each region, a total of 84 palettes! Background Details: ---------- ------- If interested in "why" this update, in part it is due to the error I mentioned earlier with starting with a PAL base and trying to create NTSC palettes from it. I ensured the front end (technically accurate 'raw' values) were set to the respective region after figuring out my error, but forgot to fix the back end (conversion to CRT). It resulted in an overall redder palette for FINAL (Which was renamed to the CRTTVR), that is within the reasonable tolerance shift, and of course allowed for yet another CRT palette to be a 'truer' less red/more green palette (CRTTVG). The former less red more green palette, ALT_FINAL is actually the neutral and renamed accordingly (CRTTV). The other two new palettes incorporate work in previous threads in harmony with a request fulfillment (WARM_LCD) as well as my own personal drive to achieve the color shift palette that has been documented and captured (WARM_CRT).
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...After you press the power button? Let's see... 1-3 SECONDS --> 15-30 SECONDS --> 1 MINUTE 2 MINUTES --> 5 MINUTES --> 8 MINUTES 20 MINUTES --> 1 HOUR --> 5 HOURS ANSWER... It is Phase Shifting. Yeah, you know what this means... More coming soon.
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To achieve a match of NTSC_A7800_CRT.pal under MESS 0.148 (Currently downloadable from here), make the following adjustments from default, ensuring hlsl is enabled: red_ratio 1.000000,0.300000,-0.300000 grn_ratio -0.150000,1.000000,0.150000 blu_ratio 0.150000,-0.150000,1.000000 saturation 1.500000 YIQ is disabled (As it is broken under 0.148) regarding the above values. Only title badly affected by this is Tower Toppler. If using another version of MESS with YIQ enabled, the above numbers need to be tweaked accordingly. If you fall into this category though, you're likely making adjustments to your display preference anyway including palette colors. MESS 0.148 has accurately stored the RAW video output of an NTSC Atari 7800 and you adjust video to personal preferences and experience as seen fit via slew of the video tweaks available. HLSL effects with all the bells and whistles turned on can require a relatively respectable graphics card. For just changing the above with no additional effects, a less powerful one is required. Most cards from the last 5 (Even as far back as ~7) years of a mid-level or better performance should suffice. See here for more details. To simplify things further for MESS here are all the files (BIOS, artwork, etc.) and basic settings you need for the palette NTSC_A7800_CRT working with hlsl. You want to unzip this archive in the same folder as your MESS executable: MESSA7800BASIC.zip Here is the same set of files with screen curvature, overscan, and scanlines: MESSA7800BELLS.zip Hope this is helpful.
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It would be nice to have a thread completely dedicated to the beautiful images generated by the awesome converter made by Jakub "ilmenit". That tool really gave colors, once reserved to the classes, to the masses. Original image (optional), converted image preview, Atari .xex file (filenames format: "Author's name_imagename" to keep Kaz atarionline.pl's format). Posts without images are not allowed! Feel free to post images already posted in the Quantizator WIP thread that you're proud of! I start with the machine that makes all this (fun) possible. Philsan_Atari800XL.xex
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