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Showing results for tags 'Composite'.
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My RGB SCART cable for my PS1 just arrived earlier today. I won't deny, the difference in clarity and overall quality of colors is immense. I think it is pretty understandable for us retro gamers to naturally hunt for the highest quality video output we can, or perhaps aim for an experience that accurately recaptures our childhoods. However, there is one key element that advocates for higher quality video cables almost never mention: dithering. Basically, it's that checkerboard-y pattern you see in the vast majority of PS1 games. If it's a 3D game, it will almost certainly have it; especially if the game in question has a darker color palette. The reason why the developers added dithering was to fake additional color depth that simply wasn't possible with the hardware otherwise. You know how certain games such as DOOM on PC have a very visible dark color gradient the farther the distance is from the player? That's called color banding. It's when the gradient of colors isn't smooth, and you can clearly see the color go from brighter to darker, and vice versa. A smooth gradient doesn't exhibit this, and it's one of the biggest advantages when working with a higher color depth. Again, this simply wasn't possible on the PlayStation's hardware. Some of you may be thinking "but wait a second, didn't the PS1 support 24-bit color?" and you'd be absolutely correct. A 24-bit color depth allows for 16.7 million possible different colors. However, it wasn't feasible for the hardware to calculate such a high color depth for fast 3D graphics. In reality, most games on the PS1 were actually 15-bit color in gameplay (32768 possible different colors), and 24-bit in still images (such as title screens). Sony was very aware of this technical limitation, so they included dithering as an option on the hardware to combat this — it was built-in. In turn, many developers used this to combat the otherwise extremely visible color banding that would be present. And this is where composite video comes in. Due to its nature, composite video will naturally blur two adjacent colors together. What this means is that the dithering pattern is far, far less noticeable when using a composite video cable. ESPECIALLY when paired with even the most basic consumer CRT. What you see instead is a very smooth gradient that will fool the human eye into thinking it is seeing more colors than it actually is. It's extremely clever. Of course, this has other affects as well. We all know that composite video is by no means known for it's clarity. As such, 2D elements tend to suffer, such as text. But on a CRT, it has the potential to look superb. While developers were often working with Sony PVM/BVM monitors that supported RGB, unless you lived in Europe, almost no one had access to RGB video. Sony and the developers knew this, so they took advantage of the limitations of composite video for the aforementioned reasons. It's a classic tale of genius engineers making the most out of limited hardware. To summarize: Composite video does a great job at hiding the arguably ugly dithering pattern present in almost every PS1 game It's far more accessible and easy to get a hold of for a reasonable price Many consumer CRTs support composite, making it easy to get into if you're just starting to get into retro gaming It's convenient As for me, would I switch back to composite now that I have an RGB cable? Well.... -
A while back, I had the idea that it might be possible to install a UAV in a 5200 without needing to also drill the case (or expansion port cover) to install A/V jacks. The goals were as follows: No case drilling of any kind RF shields to remain in place Composite, S-Video, and audio outputs to be fully-functional RF to remain intact and functional as backup video output Achievable with off-the-shelf parts How to install a UAV won't be directly covered here; there are a ton of other resources out there that explain the process better than I could. This is currently a work in progress (the audio board and 4050 need to be installed), but so far it's going very well. Some photos: A rough idea of how the cable routing will work; more on that below. Wiring at the UAV. More on that below as well. And, finally, the A/V cabling coiled in the factory RF cable location: Regarding some of the points mentioned above: Cable routing: if keeping the RF shields (recommended), the upper shield will need to have a hole made in it somewhere to route the cabling through. I haven't decided yet if I'll run it through the side or the top, but that's a relatively minor consideration. UAV wiring: had I been thinking when the UAV was ordered, I would have gone for the kit and not the plug-in version. The green terminal block would have been substituted for right-angle header pins, and Dupont connectors used for A/V connections instead of the standard screw-downs. The jumper block that's on there now would also have been deleted, each location would have been manually jumpered, and the 4050 would have been installed into a socket running above the jumpers. A/V cabling: fits in the clip / channel in the case intended to carry the RF cable and loops without issue around the stock retainers. It's only a 6' cable, which is good from the standpoint of being able to do this, but extension cables may be required depending on how far back from the display you want to be. Other than that, it's going very well so far. Parts used are: UAV. Got that one from The Brewing Academy. Ditto the Internal Audio Board. 8-Bit Classics' Atari XL/XE 5-Pin DIN S-Video & Composite AV Cable. These can also be found elsewhere without the DIN-5 monitor connector used on the A8 machines. Jumper wires with Dupont connectors. I used these ones from Adafruit because they were what I had available.
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I have been fortunate to get my hands on a Coleco Telstar Arcade Model 6071 (the triangular one). The RF modulator has deteriorated and I need to convert this system to composite video. This is where I need help. It looks like it would be pretty simple to do, but I'm a newbie and I don't completely understand the chips and pins and I don't want to risk destroying the console by experimenting. I'm attaching some pics for reference. There is a single coax cable connecting the board to the RF converter. I would assume that this cable is carrying all of the video information. Can I just take this signal and convert to composite? Does anyone have instructions or pictures that are specific to the Model 6071? I would greatly appreciate any assistance anyone could provide.
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I'm thinking of firing up one of my old Atari computers but don't have an old monitor or TV. Are there converters out there that will convert the Atari video output to VGA? HDMI would be OK I guess, but VGA suits what I have better right now. As I recall, the Atari 800 had both composite video and RGB available. Plus a modulator to convert the composite video to TV channel 2. BTW, I have seen some boards on eBay and AliExpress that look promising, but the product descriptions are hard to follow. I'd like to be reasonably sure the gadget has a chance of working before I buy it. Regards, Nick "the SIO2PC guy"
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So you've got a console (or perhaps several) that is/are RF-only but your TV of choice either doesn't have an RF input or it's otherwise not playing nicely with your console (I can relate to the latter, as my 2011 flat screen's RF input doesn't work with ANY consoles)? You're basically left with two options: perform a composite AV mod on your console OR get an RF demodulator, which converts the RF signal to composite. VCRs can act as demodulators, but they take up a decent amount of space. Devices actually marketed as RF demodulators tend to be *pricey* to the tune of $85-90 shipped.* I have found that 1980s/90s tv tuners and cable boxes make fantastic RF demodulators for video game consoles and they take up less space (and weigh less) than VCRs. I've got some spare "old school" tv tuners and cable boxes available. If you could use a device like this, shoot me a PM and we can discuss. I can assure you it'll be way less than $85-90 shipped! Thanks for the interest. *Don't accidentally buy the much more common (and cheaper) RF modulator, as that takes composite and converts it into RF! **SOLD OUT right now. May restock in the future but no plans to at this time.**
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We're moving and downsizing, and I can't justify a dedicated gaming television any more This TV has great picture and solid Stereo sound. Only stopped using it as our regular TV when cable went fully digital. Fantastic TV for using with classic consoles, can connect multiple ones to it. Swivel stand, includes working (generic) remote. Inputs include S-Video, composite and cable, and also has outputs for recording or capture and cable pass-through. It's available for free! but pick up only in the Chicago-land area (Algonquin, IL 60102) as shipping costs would be prohibitive. It's the perfect showcase for your classic games!
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Morning all, I’m very close to getting my original Magnavox Odyssey console back to life – I’ve Frankenstein’d together a working power solution from an Atari 2600 after-market power adapter, with a travel adapter and a 3.5mm-to-2.5mm tip adapter. I also got a multicard from @Boojakascha and @Mikebloke (thanks guys ), and got a handle for it from Laserbear The only remaining problem is the video cable. I mentioned previously in this post that original Odyssey RF cables are rarely listed for standalone eBay sales, and looking for other Odyssey pong consoles (100, 200 etc) with Magnavox’s weird proprietary RF connector hasn’t brought me any luck either. So I think the most practical solution would be to solder a new video cable to the back of the console’s main board, and that this cable will probably need to be at least 7 feet long. Question 1 (RF or composite?): In this video (around the 54min20sec mark) That Tim Guy from YouTube, soldered video and ground directly to the console's motherboard but it's not clear (to me anyway) exactly what cable he's using - in the most recent comment at the top of his comments section, he refers to the cable as carrying a composite video signal. And I guess in theory it's possible that the console could maybe generate composite video on the board, and the original external RF box turned it back to RF? But I'm a little bit confused by this as 1) I had always assumed a stock 1972 Odyssey only outputted RF, 2) I thought you could need something like @Boojakascha's mod board to output composite, and 3) later in the video, he appears to de-modulate the signal through a VCR to get to the CRT, which seems to suggest that the console itself is outputting RF. It's not going to make a huge difference to my setup - the Odyssey doesn't output sound, so either way, I'm going to be running a single cable with either an RCA or a coax connector. I have a well-shielded 7 foot RF video coaxial cable from Blue Jeans Cables (Belden 1505A) that I'm not using at the moment - does anyone know if this would be a good cable to use? If so, I could remove one of the connectors, and solder it to the two points on the board, as per the video. Question 2 (Safety) The video from That Tim Guy is quite long, but the relevant part where he displays the cable solution is only from 52m50s to 54m40s I don't know very much about soldering, and this would be the first mod I've tried myself, but I'm a little bit apprehensive because it seems like this should be more complicated than what's presented in the video (which shows that it's as simple as soldering two wires). It seems to me that there should usually be a little more to it than this. If he is pulling the video signal in this way and the youtube video isn't skipping over anything, does anyone have any opinion on whether wiring it directly in this way is creating a circuit that is safe, and not going to damage the console? -
I'm gauging interest for two new AV adapters I'm making due out sometime in November. I'd like to have a good idea for how many to make before launching, so I'm posting here. Each product page has a simple email signup form. if you're interested, please signup! The first is a simple S-Video, Stereo Audio, Composite video adapter. This adapter will only need the AV socket and will run $25 (plus shipping). https://www.humblebazooka.com/product/jagsvc-atari-jaguar-s-video-composite-video-adapter/ The second is an All-In-One Analog adapter with RGB (9-pin socket, Genesis Model 2 style), Stereo Audio, Composite, and S-Video. This adapter will require both Jag sockets, DSP for power, but will benefit from being able to work with the Rad2X without external power. No definitive price yet but tentative at $35 (plus shipping). Those looking to use a JagNet, JagLink, JagLink II can always pick up a Jag2GEN or the S-Video adapter, since both only use the AV socket. This adapter will have its sync line brought down to Genesis Model 2 levels so that Genesis Model 2 SCART cables wired for CSYNC will work as intended. https://www.humblebazooka.com/product/jagaioa-atari-jaguar-all-in-one-analog/
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Morning all, poster from Ireland here, TLDR version: I am utterly clueless when it comes to AV hook-ups for the original Odyssey (and also when it comes power networking more generally). Would really appreciate if someone could review my Youtube/Wikipedia research, so I don't destroy a vintage console. The Console: I have an original Magnavox Odyssey (1972) that I picked up from another guy living in Ireland. I don't know much about Magnavox's distribution history (was the idea of PAL consoles even a thing back in 1972? ) but I'm assuming it's a standard NTSC unit that was imported, as there's a sticker on the bottom saying 120V/60Hz. The guy I bought it from just had it out on display, so there's no game power cord or antenna game switch with it, and I'm just trying to figure out what my best options are to power it on (without wearing out the battery compartment), and connecting it to a CRT. Power (Problem): In Ireland, we run the UK-style "Type G" electrical sockets, that output a standard supply of 230 volts AC (frequency 50Hz). I do have a step-down transformer but would prefer not to use it if possible, as it heats up very quickly. So I guess what I'm looking for is a) a modern power supply that can accept an input range of 100-240V, 50/60 HZ), b) that's well suited to the MA1 console, and c) that has those Irish/UK style pins. Like I said, I don't have one of the original power supplies that Magnavox manufactured for the Odyssey (I have been waiting for a few months for one to pop up on eBay with no joy...), but in an earlier thread linked below, @Clong80 notes that the specs on the original power supply are: INPUT 117 VAC 50/60HZ OUTPUT 9 volts 400ma 3.5mm mono headphone jack Tip positive for polarity Power (Solution?) So after a bit of online browsing, I found this website that sells modern power supply adapters for the Atari 2600. The specs on this unit are: 9V DC 1A Tip: 3.5mm jack (Centre tip positive) https://www.retrosales.com.au/collections/atari-power/products/accessory-power-supply-atari-2600-power-supply-adaptor-pack-9v So that will supply more current than the console needs; I know these numbers don't need to match exactly, but is the difference (9V, 1A vs 9V, 400ma) reasonable enough? I'd also need a standard travel adapter to convert the Australian plug to UK pin-style. Found this unit on Amazon ("This Adapter does not convert Voltage. Please make sure your device supports 220-240 Voltage.") Per Jakob Schuler on YouTube, it looks like the Magnavox Odyssey needs a 2.5mm tip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzXlJSa_VP4&t=6m22s), so I found this 3.5mm-to-2.5mm adapter on Amazon AV Hookup: I don't have one of the original antenna game switches with the hanging hooks, but my CRT doesn't accept NTSC RF anyway, so I don't think that would be the best option for me. However, it will accept NTSC through the composite ports. And I have an NTSC RF-to-composite conversion box, which works great either on its own or with composite switches. I've had no luck finding an original MA1 video cable like this one https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_06_2016/post-32949-0-81329000-1466475134.jpg On the TV end, the little RF adapters are obviously no problem to get from Amazon, but I understand that the other end which connects to the console is proprietary? (I'm not 100% sure about this). End of an entirely-too-long post Would be super grateful if anyone could advise me on 1) whether I've made any huge screw-ups in my choice of power accessories, and 2) how to find a video cable that will connect to the console Many thanks if you stuck through to the end of this post
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I had spent quite a considerable amount of time looking for a nice HDMI upscaler for my now UAV retrofitted Atari 1200XL. The UAV did wonders for the video output, but it was ultimately let down by HDMI (or built in TV) upscalers which assumed much more on-spec video signals, with chroma and luma tolerances that react well to run of the mill comb filters. I bought the Pro version which, in addition to the CVBS to HDMI upscaling, adds support for S-Video (Y/C), Component (YbPbPr), and a few filter options which allow you to fine tune the input signal, even more. It's this guy: and you can get it here: https://www.retrotink.com/product-page/retrotink-2x-pro As you can see, it's very cost effective, compared to the Micom XRGB Framemeister, OSSC, and other upscaling solutions. How does it look? When combined with the output from my UAV modified 1200XL, the results are breathtaking. For both S-Video and Composite, the chroma to luma alignment is excellent! S-Video (Y/C) And with a nice separated chroma/luma signal, the sharpness is striking: close-up, apologies for the moire pattern. Output from PLATOTERM, Text is nice and crisp, and since it's not on Y/C, no color fringing! The P/M color overlays in ICE-T look very nice. Crisp rainbow transitions with zero fuzz in Rainbow Walker: for Ninja, the low contrast portions of background to foreground pop very nicely: Even in scenes with quick luma transitions, the upscaler does a good job with the notch filter to not introduce luma combs: COMPOSITE (CVBS) With composite, the results hold up almost as well, with the major difference being the introduction of unavoidable chroma artifacting, which, because of the well behaved notch filter, keeps luma distortion to a minimum, and makes artifact color look fantastic, as we can see here: With Jawbreaker, maze and dots render well... Let's zoom in on the jawbreaker lives, a nightmare for most composite decoders, note the smoothness: Chicken looks good, too: As does Ae 5200: And to finish, let's go back to the Rainbow Room in Ninja, with the problematic pattern that makes composite decoders cry: Beautiful, 'innit? And it really is a good thing that Mike Chi is a good guy who has a _very_ solid understanding of video signals, he has produced a solid upscaler for a decent price that will get you a superb output, especially if you've gone ahead and placed in a UAV. -Thom
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Hi All After taking a break from Atari for a year or so, im happy to offer a new product to the community which may be of interest, Im pleased to offer a S-video card which i have designed and optimised for CRT monitors, which has excellent quality video compaired to Composite and of course standard TV/Coax. The card is compatible with both NTSC and PAL Ataris and comes pre-wired and with Full color instructions and fittings. Both 7800 and TIA output is catered for and there is an adjustment pot for quality can be adjusted to ensure best results for your monitor. I have listed the features/parts here: Features: * 7800 & 2600 TIA compatible * Works on PAL and NTSC units * Sound Filter * Onboard adjustment for sharpening results * Easy Install with Step-by-Step color photos (separate sections for both PAL and NTSC) Kit Includes: * S-Video Module card - pre-wired and color coded * 4 Pin S-Video DIn Socket (for fitting to side if desired) * RCA Socket - for Audio output * Link wires * Easy Install Instructions with colour photos showing step by step from start to Finish. As some new LCD monitors may vary, im pitching this to be used for CRT monitors as to both ensure compatibility and also to keep the original feel of the 7800. Some shots ive taken are: PAL - Xenophobe, Sirius, Choplifter NTSC - Intro screen, Winter Games, Plutos. Im sure you will agree that although composite is a good departure from standard TV, the quality that the 7800 can give out is worth the effort! Ive listed these on Ebay here for general release and what the cost/rates are. UK - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121596931289?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 ROW - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-7800-S-Video-Card-PAL-NTSC-complete-with-parts-and-instructions-/121596931289?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c4fbdecd9 Please let me know if you have any questions or feel free to PM me if you are interested but dont use ebay etc. Richard
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tv RCA 29" Stereo Console TV, S-Video, great pic and sound
daves0 posted a topic in Buy, Sell, and Trade
We're moving and downsizing, and I can't justify a dedicated gaming television any more This TV has great picture and solid Stereo sound. Only stopped using it as our regular TV when cable went fully digital. Fantastic TV for using with classic consoles, can connect multiple ones to it. Swivel stand, includes working (generic) remote. Inputs include S-Video, composite and cable, and also has outputs for recording or capture and cable pass-through. Best offer $100 or up, pick up only in the Chicago-land area as shipping costs would be prohibitive. It's the perfect showcase for your classic games!
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This adapter was made to breakout the Atari Jaguar’s many video outputs to a more common and easily found set of cables the SNES Cables to allow you to play your classic games in better quality especially compared to the standard RF Audio/Video output. The RF output is very blurry and noisy out from the 90’s that is not a standard supported today. This adapter works great when paired with RGB Scart or HD Retrovision cables and run through a upscaler like the OSSC, RetroTink, or GBS! Features: Fits the back of the Jaguar without obstructing the Serial IO Link (DSP Port) Custom 3D enclosure designed by me Hand painted lettering on 3D enclosure to make it pop and match the Jaguar colors All SNES cables including official and 3rd party cables will work with this adapter Gold Plated contacts with a beveled edge for easy insertion of SNES Cables S-Video, Composite, RGB Scart, HD Retrovision Component cables all tested to work with the adapter Sync (C-Sync) has the proper filtering and attenuation to work with all upscalers Jaguar 9v regulated to 5v output for all proper RGB televisions and upscalers like the OSSC $25 USD + Shipping Purchase Here Demo video:
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Does it increase the value of an Intellivision if you composite mod it? Or do people prefer it kept in it's original condition? I just got a bunch of old Intellivision 1s from a second hand store and I'm wondering if composite modding them would increase or decrease their value.
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I was thinking of Modding my 2600 JR to output AV video. I did a mod to my JR around a year ago, and i ended up killing my board when i tried changing the jacks on it, and i can't find the original posting for the mod i Did. I saw this AV mod for the JR, and i was wondering how well it worked. https://atariage.com/howto/composite.html I think i remember some people saying the video quality wasn't the best, but I am just looking for something that is reasonably good enough to use. If the link does not work just try googling "atariage 2600 jr av"
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Hello Atari owners and modders. I'm trying to add an audio / composite output on my "new" atari 2600 (NTSC 4 switch), but I can't obtain any image... The console worked yesterday with RF output, but with no sound and a really weird/dirty b&w image. That's why I decided to add an A/V mod to permanently solve the problem. I think I choose the cheaper solution: 2 resistances and 1 transistor, similar to the easier-7800-composite-video-mod My circuit is the same as the solution proposed by brighty83 for a PAL version here (down of the page):http://retro.mmgn.co...ari-2600-AV-Mod I found the same cicuit on ebay, sellers detail the process on their installation guides for NTSC versions: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FAtari-2600-7800-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY-%2F300592126324 (see Installation Guides for atari 2600 4 switch) or http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.fr%2FAtari-2600-A-V-Composite-Video-Mod-Kit-NTSC-PAL-DIY-%2F181042624250%3Fpt%3DLH_DefaultDomain_0%26hash%3Ditem2a26fb36fa installation guide: http://www.filedropp...stallationguide (page 10 for NTSC 4 switch) Here is the circuit (sorry for the poor image quality): Video out and GND ---> Video RCA Audio out and GND ---> Audio RCA As mentionned on guides for NTSC 4 switch, I removed the RF box, Q202 and R209: The sound works well, but no images, it's so sad... I don't know what to do, and I'm dying about playing with it, in good conditions I mean. Some of you tried this mod? any idea ? Fujisama
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I just ran into a couple of these on Ebay. I thought the logo looked strikingly similar to the old 8-bit, brown carts -- at least in style and color. The monitor case itself seems a better fit for an XL, but I'm sure it'd look nice next to a 400 or 800 as well. Is anybody using one of these with their 8-bit setup? These are monochrome; I guess the 122 is amber and the 123 is green. They also make some color monitors, like the 135. I just started looking into them; I'm interested to see what other models were available that might be a good match for Atari systems too.
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Hi all. It sounds like a stupid question that can be solved by myself, but the multisystem tv/Monitor that I have is very heavy and in an akward position so I can't try all combinations. I recently bought a c64 composite cable from ebay to use with my multisystem NTSC capable CRT. In the drawing in the back it says AV in Yellow, but WHen I place them in that order I get no signal in AV input. Is it possible that there is another combo to use with an NTSC TI 99/4a to the back of the CRT?
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Hi. I have a monitor/tv that supports composite video which is what my cable is. Now in the back there is audio for composite but the video is in component. Where in the component inpute should I put the yellow video RCA?
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Links Forum Topic Notes Composite output Two versions: Single and dual transistor Removes RF box Design only, not a premade kit Simon says the two transistor version is better PCB is designed, Eagle files are available (contact him on the forums!) Two transistor PCB design using SMD parts from /u/albrugsch on Reddit
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Recently got an 2600 (Vader) and gave it an composite mod. That mod seemed to work fine for a few times but after a while gave increasingly more glitches with each power cycle. First blocks in the screen, then the games where effected by the power switch (in combat suddenly the tanks moved), then the image stopped working and just getting a buzzing sound and now I only get a black screen without sound. What could cause this issue?
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Generic One Transistor/Two Resistor Ebay Mod
mogul345 posted a blog entry in Atari 2600 A/V Mods Wiki
Links Example - eBay Auction -- Item Number: 311634197062 Notes Single transistor design Composite video only Premade kit -
Links Website Notes Composite output Single Transistor design Premade kits available Removes RF box NTSC & PAL support Very, very small
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Links Website Forum Topic Notes Composite and S-Video output Video only. No audio output Premade kits available Plug n Play version available for revisions containing a CD4050 chip Keeps RF circuit intact. Can use RF in conjunction w/ Composite and S-Video to output to multiple TVs at the same time NTSC & PAL support
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Links Website Notes Composite, S-Video, and RGB output Easy install if TIA is socketed Six different color palettes Supports NTSC and PAL Premade kit available 4 Switcher Installation Guide
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