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Hi fellow TI enthusiasts, I am pleased to announce the next version of APEDSK99. APEDSK99 is an Arduino shield that emulates 3 DS/SD floppy drives for the TI99/4(a). Combined with a Ethernet / SD shield it allows you to load and save Disk-On-A-Disk (DOAD) floppy images on a SD card or FTP server. It includes the necessary 32K RAM expansion and adds NTP date and time to TI-BASIC: The APEDSK99 shield plugs directly into the side port and is powered separately from a USB cable. A "PEB" LED indicates APEDSK99 access: APEDSK99 adds about 13 CALL commands to BASIC but you only have to remember the one for the built-in help screen: It only takes seconds to exchange files between your TI and say the excellent Classic99 emulator on your main system: Check out the demo:
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Anybody have the original software that came with the Trak AT Series drives? They're supposed to come with a utility/patch called DDINIT, which will modify Atari DOS 2.0S to support double-density. Failing that, I'd settle for a copy of DOS 2.0S already modified with this utility.
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Loving Floppy Disks, so I made some labels for the Falcon 030 including: ---General Falcon Disk Labels ---System Disks ---Labels for 2 games (1) Go to a PrintShop with a USB and ask them to print the file on Adhesive Paper (A3) (2) Cut the labels (the size should fit 100% on 3.5 disks) Giorgos https://binaryvalue.com/
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Has the Percom AT-88 Doubler ROM ever been dumped?
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I was given an Atari 1050 floppy drive at some point, and with it came some software. One of those items of software allowed me to take several Atari tape-based games, load them in, and then save and convert them into a version that was loadable from floppy. This was mostly a godsend, as I didn't need to load from tape those particular games anymore, and it would always load fast and reliably from floppy. The problem with the software was that it didn't work with custom tape loaders or multi-part tape loaders, I was stuck there. I cannot for the life of me remember what the software I used was named, or if there were others of its kind out there that could deal with all tape games. However, if anyone has experience of software like this, could they provide details and even screenshots if possible?
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MAME 0.243 Another month has passed, and it's time for another MAME release! MAME 0.243 has a few fairly big internal changes, and while we're working towards making MAME more future-proof, there will likely be some regressions in the short term. The most noticeable regression that we're aware of is that rhythm games using DVD media on Konami's Firebeat platform are now very unhappy with our lack of proper DVD drive emulation. If you find any other regressions, please report them – it's a lot easier to fix things when we know they're broken. Remember the unreleased arcade version of Rise of the Robots, running on the RasterSpeed platform? This month sees support added for another game on the same hardware: Football Crazy. In a clear demonstration of the benefits of MAME's modular architecture, this provides test cases yielding fixes for the CPU, serial controller and SCSI controller used in the system. Numerous games and computer systems using the same devices stand to benefit. MAME's floppy drive emulation system has had an overhaul this month. We think we've finally nailed down and fixed the issues that were causing bad data to be written by the Apple IIGS. Of course, it's still a good idea to back up your precious disk images. There are lots of nice fixes for NES/Famicom cartridge support, making a whole lot of Chinese-language games playable. The driver for the NEC PC-8801 family has had an overhaul this month, giving more expansion options and better software compatibility. Also, several more early Rockwell electronic calculators are now emulated. As always, there were plenty of bugs squashed this month, including Midway Seattle and Vegas stability issues, graphical glitches in The Karate Tournament, erratic joystick movement on the Apple IIGS, missing sounds in Looping, and quite a few incorrectly labelled DIP switches. You can read about all the exciting development activity in the whatsnew.txt file, or get the source and 64-bit Windows binary packages from the download page. Read the rest of this entry »
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I am very intrigued by the 1450XLD, its self-test and boot options. It is a fantastic piece and yet (almost) totally inaccessible to a collector. For me, the faster built-in floppy drive is the real game-changer. But I wonder how it is supposed to be used. Let me explain. When you want to boot with an (external) floppy drive, in theory, you should: 1. Remove any floppy disk currently in the drive 2. Turn on the floppy drive 3. After a short initialization, insert the diskette and close the latch 4. Turn on the computer (with or without the BASIC cartridge or the "Option" key) If you want to boot without a floppy disk drive, just don't turn it on. Turn on the computer (with or without the BASIC cartridge or the "Option" key) I may have seen incorrectly, but I have the impression that there is only one power switch on the 1450XLD. So, you turn on the computer and its built-in floppy drive at the same time. This is why the OS is modified to not display "BOOT ERROR" right away and wait for a floppy disk to be inserted. The "Introduction to DOS 3" manual seems to indicate that you only have to close the latch to start the boot process. But I seem to remember screenshots that show a message prompting the user to press "RETURN" to start the boot. Which of these is true? I also wonder: can you boot without the floppy drive, by disabling it? What happens if you press "RETURN" or close the flap without a floppy? "BOOT ERROR" or something else? By the way, does the floppy drive stay on all the time? Similarly, if I imagine the case where an external floppy drive is set to D1: and plugged into a 1450XLD. At boot time, the OS will first look for D1: on the parallel bus before looking on the SIO bus, right? A recent video of a 1400XL allows you to hear the Votrax during the self-test launch and to see this re-worked version with a blue background in some tests. My point: Is there somewhere a video of a 1450XLD (*) booting and/or in the self-test? Is there something extra for the 1450XLD? A test of the drive? (*) Not a re-creation of the 1450XLD, but the real, original one... I'd like to see it loading software on floppy (5x faster, right?), going in the self-test or going into BASIC...
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Dear Atari 8-bit fellows, I have long assumed that, in order to ensure that their game or software could be used by any buyer, the Atari 8-bit software publishers all offered floppy disks that could be read by a standard 810 drive. In other words, single sided, single density, or 90 KiB. But apparently this is not true. Some software required a higher capacity drive. Apart from drive-specific DOS, does anyone know of any software that requires a 1050 or XF551 drive? As a bonus, does anyone know where I can find a list of some "specific" Atari 815 software? Atari Word processor (version 815) Atari Accountant series (General Accounting System; Accounts Receivable System; Inventory Control System) Anything else? Thank you for your help!
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Dear All, 3.5" floppy drives that connect via USB to a modern PC are very common and I have some. However, it is impossible to find a 5"1/4 USB floppy drive. I guess there must be a good reason, which I don't know. However, I would really like to find one to take "raw" images of floppy disks, right there, on my Windows 10 computer. I haven't had a PC with these floppy drives for a long time (or I have old PCs in the basement somewhere and loose 3.5" & 5"1/4 drives). So, if anyone has an idea, a suggestion, how to find this kind of 5"1/4 floppy drive in USB for modern PC. Thanks in advance.
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Hi, I am (slowly ? ) rebuilding my PFM modded Geneve (384+192K) system and I really don´t know what controller/combination to use. Can/should I use the HFDC for the harddrive only plus adding a BwG (or CC9900) for the (2+HxC) floppy disk drives ? Makes that sense for an extra FDD-controller ? Maybe just to have it full or to prevent from any problems ? I have some controllers, so it is not the question to save up one. And I have no need for formats bigger than 720KB. I also want to add an HRD3000 Ramdisk, is it possible to boot from that, instead of the harddisk ? Does this make sense at all ? Or just install it without boot, just to have it ? Is there any use for the TripleTec-Card ? Speech maybe ? And use the CC9900 floppy controller instead of the BwG ? I also have the Myarc 512 KB RAM, but I think there is a special mod to be done, to use it in the Geneve ? And I will add a RS232, maybe I take the Myarc instead of the TI (?) I also have an ASCSI2-Controller, but I really do not want to use that because I want to keep my SNUG system complete. (if anyone wants to get rid off a WHT-SCSI, I am your man) What did I forget ? thx If needed, here is a picture: More detailed here: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/315250-ti-994a-show-your-modded-systems-here/?do=findComment&comment=4734298
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So I recently bought a Peripheral Expansion box with a 32k expansion card. I am a newbie at this. When I power the PEB up, the floppy drive initializes and then turns on and off repeatedly every few seconds. Super annoying. I pulled out the 32k card and then the problem stopped. With the card out, it works normally. I figured the 32k card had a problem so I bought another. The new card does the same thing! Any thoughts?? I have cleaned all contacts and inspected everything but nothing seems to help. Something in my floppy drive maybe?
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I'm trying to add my Lotharek as DSK2 and DSK3 to my PEB with a single Tandon drive. For this I'm using a standard PC floppy cable with TWO floppy connectors, one of which is twisted. When I connect the Tandon drive only, I can catalog DSK1 just fine. When I connect the Lotharek only, I can catalog DSK2 and DSK3 just fine. (Note that jumpering the Lotharek appropriately will take care of the twisted cable, I think.) If I connect both, though, then cataloging either DSKx yields "DISK NOT INITIALIZED". I've also tried removing the resistor pack on the drive (I suppose this is "A" in the photo, not "B"?!), but it didn't affect the result at all. (Or are you supposed to plug in something else instead?) Is my approach misguided? What's the difference between attaching a single cable with two connectors to the main controller plug and attaching two cables with a single connector to both main and rear-facing controller plugs?
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Hi, I've seen this board mentioned in a number of post, but in sort of an off handed manner. https://webstore.kryoflux.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=30&osCsid=a6388d9b56b704f3508ee011d400fa76 I was wondering how people use it for transferring TI files, and how successful they have been. Ideally, I could hook this up with a 5.25" drive to my PC, and dump files and use them with Classic99/PC99/MAME ? Thanks
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SOLD! $35 Shipped 1 Fellows and 1 Memorex 3.5" disk file box. Both boxes still have their plastic dividers and are if good but used condition. Includes 60+ used discs in various conditions but all were readable when I checked their contents. Some have been erased. Some only had data written to them once and some were used multiple times. Bonus: I've included about 30 brand new disk labels as well.
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I know that there are a few other threads on 1050 disk drive repair, so I hope I am forgiven for starting a new one. Hopefully some of my techniques might help others. Back in November a bunch of Atari 8 bit stuff was put on Ebay UK by a seller - "ginger_colin". It was all "buy it now" and most items were "for parts or not working", even though for the computer systems he showed the computer as operational in the pictures. Someone grabbed a bargain Atari 800 for less than £100. A number of items sounded like they needed a clean. I bought a 1050 for £30, then a day or so later bought a second for £35. I bought the first to use the case for an Atari related project which I started back in 2000, but then the second just seemed too good a bargain to pass up. The second drive was badly protected (hardly any bubble wrap) and when I took the drive apart it was clear that it had taken quite a hit during delivery. I powered up drive #1, but it was completely dead. I powered up drive #2 (the damaged one) and switching on and off several times, it operated the drive once only. So I knew that I had a repair project on my hands. I took both drives apart and cleaned the cases (using JIF and soap) and used a brush to get rid of fine black "dust". I suspect that the original owner was a smoker. Drive #2 had broken and cracked support pillars. The switch was bent up - quite a feat if you know the size of the 3 pins of this switch, as was the LED. The LED bent back, but the switch didn't. The tab to open the drive was completely stuck, as it was clear that the drive had been hit hard on the front. The brown front plastic surround was cracked and pieces broken off in the bottom left corner. Much later I also noticed that the front of the mech was also cracked. To his credit the seller refunded the money for drive #2 without me even asking. He was also selling a bare mechanism, and having communicated with him it sounded like this was due to him having to replace another drive (for a different buyer) which must also have been broken in the post (I assume that he must have had to replace the plastic case leaving him with a spare mech). I removed both mechs and used a multimeter and scope to check the power supplies. Both drives checked out OK and the 5V looked very clean. The 6507 clocks for both drives were good and RSTB was working correctly. What surprised me was that for both drives the address lines were not toggling. This puzzled me as if the firmware was not seeing the mech I would have thought that the code would end up in a tight "error" loop so giving some 6507 address line toggling. I surmised that the CPUs have executed some bad opcodes which crashed the CPUs, possibly due to back RAM used for the stack. So I then started a more thorough examination. I will post more later, so those that are not interested do not have to wade through a long initial posting.
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Remember the idea of creating a 3.5 drive for XL line of computer and devices? I remember that someone posted a 1050 styled kyroflux case. I found it and I guess it can be modified or even used like that as a first prototype. It is a great starting point, but it might need some work to make it SF551 board compatible. As you can see in the link, the kyroflux board goes under the floppy drive itself. Something similar could be done for SF551 as long as the height of the board is not too much. The back openings may need some work as well. I think is will look very cool and usable for large collection of games, images ans some demos. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3287420
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Hello everyone, I did some searching and didn't find anything here, and my internet searches have turned up varied results, but I'm trying to look for the best solution to connect 8" drives with the 50 pin format to the ATR 8000 with the 34 pin format. I don't recall if my old drives had an adapter board on them to step it down, but since I have ribbon cables a mile long that should have been for those drive cabinets back in the day, I can see it was a straight 34 pin cable. There's some people selling boards with various capabilities, but they might not be what I need for my purposes, so I thought I'd check in here. I'm sure only a small handful of people will have any experience with these anyway with the Atari systems. If nothing is out there, my next question would be whether there is logic in the adaptation to allow the drives to work, or if it was simply a straight cable that didn't use extra pins for additional functionality that the 8" drives may be capable of. I think I can find schematics and make a cable if it comes to it, and maybe even off of what came with the drives. Thanks for any information you guys might have to offer. --Todd--
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I received an untested 1050 drive from eBay and found the floppy connections were all disconnected (J1,J6,J10,J11,J12,J14,J15) There are no labels on the connectors themselves to indicate which "J" they should go to and the colors don't match what was shown in the 1050 service manual on page 27. See below the colors associated with my connections. Can anyone post their connector setup if it is similar to the one below?
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Last night I went through a torrent of hardware swapping and hours of troubleshooting. I recently picked up a Sony MP-F11W-2Z 720k floppy drive with the intention to use it either in my TI* or as a replacement mechanism in my Commodore 1581. But I ran into a problem. Connected to a CoCo2 the drive works perfectly fine: it will format a disk and use it. However, when connected to the BwG the drive will format but fails verifying sectors starting at 720, which is at roughly 180k of a 360k format. I connected a Panasonic JU-257 (1.44MB drive) and get the same results with the BwG. Other drives produce the same results. As expected, the drive head does not traverse the entire disk surface. FWIW, the BwG and the CoCo's FD-501 both use the WD1773. I may be over-thinking it but my first thought was "precompensation." Seems a bit of a stretch. Can anyone steer me in the right direction here? * Understanding, of course, only 360k of the disk will be usable.
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Hello all retro Atari users, I haven't used my Atari for around a year now. I hooked everything up yesterday, and the Atari 800XL still works fine. However I am having severe issues with the disk drive. I was able to load one of my homemade Basic programs and some songs that I had composed. However, any further attempts to load any games, Dos, or reload the Basic program have failed. I get g4 and g5 errors on the drive on ANY disc that I am trying to load. I do not know much about drive maintenance (my young age relative to 8-bit computers may be involved). I do not know if I should try cleaning the head or if I need to put some kind of grease in the rails where the head moves. I know that the information on the disks is still intact (for the most part anyway), because I was able to load several things on my floppy disk, and later it would try to load and after a few beeps would give the error "blurp". After repeated attempts, it won't correctly load anything anymore, so that's why I think it's a drive maintenance issue. All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, James
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Just wondering how others are duping copies of their existing TI 5.25" Floppies to volumes used for the nanoPEB? I imagine one way would be to connect the original PEB, then use an RS-232 data transfer to the PC using some software to receive the TI disk and store it on the PC HD. But, I was wondering if there was an easier way? I was looking for a 5.25" USB floppy drive, but apparently noone ever made them (I have a USB 3.5" but obviously not much use for the TI). Are there adapter/sleds that allow 5.25" USB connections to occur? Maybe there is another way that just isn't obvious to me. TIA
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For this CoCo2 I am selling, I found several 3.5" floppy drives which will work with the FD-501 interface. I understand RSDOS only uses these disks as SSDD for 160k of storage and to use the WD1773 controller to its fullest you would need OS9. It looks like there are some 80 track modifications available which would allow for 720k 3.5" drives. All that considered, is there a lot of call in the CoCo world for 3.5" drives? If so then I should go ahead and mount one in this FD-501 case.
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So, I have a bunch of Atari stuff for sale. I'm not sure as to what to price it (I'm not an Atari guy, I'm a Nintendo guy), and I'd like it to go to a Atari collector or someone who will put it to use/appreciate it. I'm not looking to make a killing. I just want a fair/going price for the stuff. It all works. The list consists of: Atari 520ST - Good shape - powers on/runs Atari 1040ST - Good shape - powers on/runs Atari 520ST - poor shape - powers on/runs 3.5 SF354 Atari 850 Atari 810 - 5.25 XM 301 410 Cassette Monitor SC1224 It's a rough list. I imagine most of you on here will know more about what I have. I have photos. Some of them are doubles. I want to make sure you can see the condition of the items. https://imgur.com/a/doqNz
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I have seen those tape/floppy drives that slot into the cartridge slot looking space on the side of the unit, but I have been having a hard time finding them on Ebay and when I do, they are always very expensive. Are there any other ways to do this?
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Hi all, I'm looking into getting a floppy drive for my 99, but I don't want to break the bank for one. Is there anywhere (or any other type of drive) that I could get? What are all your suggestions? Thanks!