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This is a bit of a followup to a post I already made about a power supply I was working on. Anyway I was able to get the adam to run by just running my own wires to the db9 connector instead of using a serial cable. I now have the problem that the thing only runs if I hold down one of the reset switches and even then the picture is noisy, and the channel 3/4 switch seems to do nothing. If anyone knows what's going on here let me know please. I want my desk space back
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So I got a light sixer atari 2600 for christmas, its already been modded by the seller so theres no channel switch and it just plugs straight in to the tv via the coaxial port. Granted with a little tuning I have it working just fine on my tv (except for the screen rolling. I have tried a signal booster (the kind you buy from the shop Ive not risked cracking open the console yet as I'm still learning the ins and outs of it) as i read that could be the issue but no change. The power lead is just a standard 9v AC plug and my tv is a Panasonic Viera TX-L32G20B 32" 720p HD LCD TV. I was told it should be able to run on HDTVs just fine which to be fair it does except for the screen rolling. Any advice as to fixing this would be great. Thanks.
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Some users (such as @KPeter) have reported that they have characters they can't print in their passphrases. Until the next build comes out (which increases the available characters to include the |), you can modify the passphrase by putting your SD card into a PC and opening up the fnconfig.ini file, and looking for the section: ...other stuff... [WiFi] SSID=Cherryhomes passphrase=REDACTED ...other stuff... Hope this helps. -Thom -
I have a cartridge of Space War that has a different pin cover from all the other games I have. It has just one long slot instead of three smaller ones, and you can push it in just by pressing it down, which you can't do with the normal covers. I thought it might be one of the 7800-era rereleases by Atari Corp, but it says 1978 Atari Inc, not 1986 Atari Corp, so it seems to not be. I put some pictures of the game, and a picture of what the normal pin cover looks like for reference. Does anyone know anything about this?
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Hi, I'm new to Atari 2600 gaming but have to say I love it. I managed to get hold of a rainbow 2600jr a year ago and AV modded it successfully and it's fantastic fun. A few weeks ago a friend gave me an all black 2600jr that he didn't want and I thought it looked awesome so I thought I'd add it to the collection and mod this one. I found out that this one is pretty rare and that made me want it even more. However, I've run in to a snag. I've modded this one exactly as I did the other one and everything is perfect apart from the sound. There is none!! There's a tiny bit of statistic but nothing else. I've re-flowed every solder joint on the board and nothing still. The board itself is in really good condition and I can't see any corrosion at all or leaked capacitor's. This is a revision 2 board and I'm desperate to get this working. I want this to take pride of place in my collection. Please can anyone help, I'm at a bit of a loss. I'll send as many pics as possible. Thanks in advance. Also, I have heard that sometimes the bottom right capacitors (if they are capacitors) might need changing but I can't find there value. Is this correct??
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Hey guys. I was told you guys are the best place to get help, so Im here asking for it. I have a 5200 with UAV and S video installed. It did not come with a power supply. I went to my local retro gaming store for one. I plugged it in and the red light on the console lit up dimly a few times than went off. I brought the whole system and power supply back to the store. They tried another one. No dice. Longer story short, they sold me an AC Atari computer power supply, not one for the 5200. I have no idea where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hello, I just bought two retro Sega handheld consoles recently but I just realised that both of their screen are burnt as faulty. So I am look for an experienced repair for new LCD screens to replace them. I will happy to pay for LCD screens from websites like Ebay, Amazon, etc. I will pay you for your service to fix them. I will happy to drop them in Sydney metro but I don't mind to post them in only Australia as well. They are Sega Nomad Genesis and Sega Game Gear consoles. See pictures of them attached.
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Hello! I have a probably stupid dilemma, but no matter how I look high or low, all I can find online is how to connect a 2600 to a modern tv. Well, I don't want to connect it to a modern tv. I have a 2002 pk 4184 tv-radio I want to use. Ports on it? Simple question: it has exactly one; an "Ex Ant" (presumably external antenna) port. There's also an onboard antenna of course. Is there any sort of adapter that can connect the RF cable that came with the atari to it? Or am I just going to need to get an antenna box for the atari and find it's "station"? I feel like it would be better to hardwire it if I can. Here's an image of both items:
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error Batari Basic and VisualbB script and parameter errors
B_Studios posted a topic in batari Basic
Hello, I'm currently a newbie to Batari Basic and Visual bB for the Atari 2600 and had only begun to set up both programs. I installed both Batari Basic 1.5 and Visual bB build 568. So far according to the Windows 10 installation method I had extracted both zipped files and placed them together in a folder labeled "Atari2600". From there I launched the Visual bB configuration wizard and ran the install_win batch file. From there I am able to launch the Visual bB however I get error windows claiming to be script errors. I'm able to skip or ignore these messages and go into the program, from there everything appears to work as normal and I'm able to compile my code which at the moment has only been a playfield. When I test my code in the built in emulator, I'm then presented with an error regarding the file which will not allow me to run the code. Could I have possibly made an error while installing both programs or made an error with the configuration wizard? Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated! -
Hey guys, so this time I messed up bad, no excuses here. Simply how can I fix this. Also will the product pictured below which is an conductive epoxy help? The game is Zelda for NES.
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I’ve had my odyssey for a while now and it’s worked perfectly since purchase, I’ve been using it on a ‘94 or so CRT and just recently bought a Curtis Mathis ‘81 to better fit the era (believe me i looked for a 70s... impossible) but now that it’s hooks to this older tv, it’s grainier (not the main issue) but now the wall won’t show! I’ve heard this being an issue before but it was never one for me so I never knew how to fix it. Also there are so many dials on this tv that I have no clue what they do I’ll attack some images if anyone could help me out
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I was thinking of Modding my 2600 JR to output AV video. I did a mod to my JR around a year ago, and i ended up killing my board when i tried changing the jacks on it, and i can't find the original posting for the mod i Did. I saw this AV mod for the JR, and i was wondering how well it worked. https://atariage.com/howto/composite.html I think i remember some people saying the video quality wasn't the best, but I am just looking for something that is reasonably good enough to use. If the link does not work just try googling "atariage 2600 jr av"
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Seeking any information on: (Suche nach Informationen:) Wulf Becherer Eugen Baumgartner and software 3D-World. Towards the end of the retail support for the TI99/4a, I purchased - at full retail price- a copy of 3D-World. The documentation I have contains no maker or distributor name but the software contains the above two Germanic names with Copyright in 3D-World claimed by Becherer in the program code. I have found a little known commercial offering by AMERISOFT of 3D-World, and the manual I have and their manual are clearly from the same source, with the same weak translations and spelling errors, but theirs has added a copyright AMERISOFT note. Could this be a European program that has been "lifted" -officially or unofficially- by an American company? Amerisoft do not seem to have built a major presence in the TI World- but sadly neither do Becherer and Baumgartner. If anyone can help shed light on these gentlemen or on the circumstances of the program, I can add a note to the English manual I am recreating for the software. The Amerisoft disk is on wht. thanks S
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Somehow my computer doesn't want to build DASM and I don't want to change my setup risking to break other projects. Can anyone create a DASM Windows executable from the latest source code for me?
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Hello, I’m wondering if anyone can identify the wood type the Magnavox odyssey uses on its woodgrain patter, I want to duplicate the pattern with another odyssey inspired project. Does anyone know the type or at least a good substitute? It’s a darker woodgrain
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I have been a pixel designer for about 10 years now and will guarantee to give your 2600 game the best graphics I possibly can. Any and all graphics in game I am willing to flesh out. Any serious offers can email me at noahkinard@aol.com and we can talk further in depth. Thank you. -
Hi all, When I was a kid I used to go to the local arcade hall and play a platform game that played out in an asia / oriental world where a little guy shot balls in different colors at the enemy creatures. I wanna show it to my kids - but I cant recall the name of the game ? Help !!! =)
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Hy there. I got my very first Jaguar today. Hooked it up and it seem to work fine. Can't test much because I currently have no controller. Now comes the strange part. The start up screen has sound but is missing the growl when the Logo comes up. The music in the startup plays fine tough. Cybermorph starts up with sound effects but no music an no voice samples. What could be my problem? I am aware that the game could have mutet the sound by the previous owner but the partial missing sound seems fishy!
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My intelvison 2 isn't outputting 12v when the rf modulator is connected. If I remove it the connection reads exactly 12v but as soon as its connected it drops to 11-6ish volts. Also was not getting any video from the rf out, and my composite mod is having problems keeping a stable signal. Wondering if the low voltage is the source of the problem. Also one of the ic's gets really hot and I'm not sure if that's related to the voltage or if that's normal. There is actually some yellowing inside the case in the area that its located.
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I've been trying to mod my intellivion 2 to output composite video. I almost have the thing working, but the video signal is still having problems. text characters will start to shake after about 3 seconds of running, and there is a white line going down the screen lined up with the characters. I tried putting a 2000uf cap across the 5v line, but that didn't do anything. Ive checked the mod board multiple time times, but haven't found any problems with it that fixed the signal. also the rf modulator never output any video signal so i don't have any way to see if its a problem with the console. also don't have any extra rf modulators or consoles to test with. -
I got an old odyssey 4000 from an attic a month or two ago, and I've been trying to get it working. I have the service manual and I made an attempt at an av mod based off of a thread I read here. The audio works, the system starts, and it seems like the game is running, but there is no video output to the tv. There is also not the voltage the service manual says I should have at the video out pin, or anywhere I can tell it connects to. Can anyone advise on what to check?
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Hi again, Did a bit of restructuring and now it seems to go to the correct bank on power up. The issue I think is right after that it jumps into no man's land a.k.a RAM and never returns which results in a black screen with a brown messed up playfield and a horrible death sound. ? The strange part is bank 0 is so small it is latterly only a few bytes in size with only a few calls to the required syncing subroutine, and then the title screen kernel which draws the title screen using the playfield and yes all the graphics are in the same bank. Links Source Listing Binary
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Hello all, long time reader, first time poster on the forums. I recently picked up a junk Coleco Telstar Combat system made in ‘77 for a couple dollars. It was pretty roached, but it’s a rather obscure system so I couldn’t pass it up. However, after getting it all cleaned up, I plugged it to my TV to test it out, but all I got was static and no signal. I tried many times turning the system off and on but mostly no signal would appear at all. Sometime a staticky signal would fade in and out, but it was very inconsistent. Once, I even got a vague image of the actually game screen to appear for a few seconds. I’m fairly confident that the video cable coming from the system itself is not the issue and I have it hooked up to a known working RF switch that works well with my Atari 2600. So, I opened the system back up, removed the RF shield, and began to adjust the RF inductors (I’m using a modern tv). ( I attached pics for reference) There appears to be 2 RF inductor adjustments under the shield, and a screw adjustment at the top right corner of the board. I started adjusting the orange (bottom) inductor but that only caused the video to go from no signal, to staticky image, back to no signal. So I tried to adjust the white (top) RF inductor, but it wouldn’t budge. Upon further inspection, I saw the slot inside this inductor had several cracks. I desoldered the inductor from the board to examine it further, but couldn’t get it to budge. After resoldering it back on, I still have the same issue, however, the static signal seems to become more and more scarce, leaving me with no signal as I fiddle more and more with the inductors. I also tried adjusting the screw adjuster to no avail, but I’m not really sure which RF adjusters I should/need to adjust. Would the cracking in the inductor be enough to inhibit the video signal completely? Is there anything else that could be causing this issue besides the inductors? I have a rather limited knowledge on electronics as I have only been attempting retro repairs for about a year and a half, so any new nuggets of knowledge are greatly appreciated! This is a really neat and rare system that I would like to have working in my collection. Feel free to ask questions if something isn’t clear. Thanks in advance! (Note: I have the same problem regardless if I’m using batteries or the power supply).
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Hi, Quick question, right now I have a 8k game using the standard F8 bankswitching scheme. Say I wanted to upgrade it to a 16k game via F6, how would I go about doing that? Do I just add the extra needed banks or is there a more precise procedure required?
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I am using this bit of code to decide if the velocity is going to be positive or negative when a new game is started. GetRandomByte lda Random asl eor Random asl eor Random asl asl eor Random asl rol Random ; performs a series of shifts and bit operations rts jsr GetRandomByte ; generate a random number lda #%10000000 ; 1 in most significant bit mean greater then 127 bit Random ; was it less then 127? bne RandomVX ; if it was then branch lda #$ff ; set the starting duck's x velocity to -1 jmp RandomVXDone ; and jump cause we're done RandomVX lda #$01 ; set the starting duck's x velocity to 1 RandomVXDone sta DuckVX ; store duck's initial x velocity jsr GetRandomByte ; generate a random number lda #%10000000 ; 1 in most significant bit mean greater then 127 bit Random ; was it less then 127? bne RandomVY ; if it was then branch lda #$ff ; set the starting duck's x velocity to -1 jmp RandomVYDone ; and jump cause we're done RandomVY lda #$01 ; set the starting duck's x velocity to 1 RandomVYDone sta DuckVY ; store duck's initial y velocity However no matter what the velocity always stays the same. Bin: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ikjnebg1moyn0k4/duckgame.bin?dl=1
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