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Found 49 results

  1. Looking for a Wico Command Controller for Intellivision and an Amiga Power Stick for intellivision. Will pay a reasonable price. Up to 50 for Wico and more for Amiga Powerstick (with Keypad). I can also trade some cool and rare Intellivision games.
  2. Could Concentration / Hunt n Score be hacked to use a joystick instead of the keyboard controllers? Just thought it would be easier to play maybe moving an "X" over the square to reveal picture, same as Flag Capture.
  3. I've been playing some SHMUPS for Jag recently (Raiden, Xenon II) and was thinking how nice it would be to have a big fat arcade joystick on my lap for playing these. How hard would it be to adapt the Eladdin joysticks that are on the AA store for the 7800 for use with the Jag? Would a cable do it? There really aren't many action buttons on a lot of these games and I feel like it's doable in regards to button function/needs. Or is there a better solution for a Jag arcade pad? I've only seen highly custom one-off's in the past...
  4. *** NOW AVAILABLE !!! *** Special Collector's Box Edition of Rain of Terror... with Joystick support !! By popular request, Rain of Terror now includes Joystick support !! (also still supports the original Paddle experience as well of course) Rob and I have also made some other minor enhancements to the game. This updated version with Joystick support is available now as a physically-packaged Collector's Box Edition including: - Custom full-color Collector's Box (illustrated front+back and inside) - Illustrated User’s manual - Program disk with printed label and disk sleeve: Side 1: Rain of Terror (New Joystick + Paddle version) Side 2: Bonus material - Each limited box and disk is printed with a unique serial number - Some additional surprise items will be included in the box, just for fun For a limited time: While supplies last, the Collector's Box Edition will feature a very cool BLUE floppy disk! $28 USD plus shipping from the USA. To order or get a shipping quote: PM me on AtariAge, or you can email me at erichennekeATgmailDOTcom Thanks!!! -Eric
  5. I just purchased an Atari Space Age Joystick, but the red trigger fire button doesn't work. Everything else works fine, and is super smooth, but only button won't work. Can anyone make any suggestions as to how to fix it cause I'm at a loss as it is very different from a standard joystick.
  6. [EDIT 10/21: I've lowered the price and hope it's a bit more reasonable. Without a doubt I have no interest in trying to gouge anyone and apologize if my initial ask was too steep. These obscure things are always so weird to sell. Thank you!] [EDIT 10/16: Since I haven't gotten any interested buyers here yet, I've elected to try the eBay route just so anyone who may see this same item on eBay is aware. That said, if someone ends up wanting to buy it here before the auction runs out, I'd be happy to give that person priority and cancel the listing. Thank you!] Hi everyone, Though it hurts my heart a bit to do this, money is tight and I have some bills that need paid by the end of the month so I'm parting ways with my Wico Command Joystick for the Atari 5200. I've only owned this stick for several months since I got it off of a friend. In that time, however, I've sat down and enjoyed a handful of sessions using the thing and can attest to the fact that it really is the best way to play games on the 5200. So now for a few details about the actual stick and what's included. Though there was a bit of dust to clean off when I got it, cosmetically the joystick is in good condition and only shows mild wear. Both fire buttons work well and are responsive (do note, however, that the smaller of the two isn't utilized for every game) and the stick itself re-centers very well and feels tight. The two locking triggers on the bottom of the stick (which allow you to unlock the re-centering on either axis) also work well. **The one downside to this unit are the x and y axis calibrating sliders on the sides--though they do, indeed, work they are a bit stiff. It could be as simple as needing to open the joystick up and reposition them between the top and bottom housing pieces but I hesitate to open this thing up since I would hate to damage anything. Typically what I always do, if ever they get bumped, is test the stick on a game like Centipede where you have free movement in any direction and make sure the player-character isn't stuck moving in one direction. Once you set them, however, they usually stay so though they may get jostled in transit, you shouldn't have to constantly adjust them. Like I said, the functionality is totally there it's just that the sliders themselves--physically--are a bit stiff. Items included in this purchase are: -The Wico Command Joystick itself -Two Y-Cables that daisy-chain between the stick and a traditional 5200 controller (both tested and work great) -And a one page instruction/warranty sheet that I also have. It's not the actual instruction manual but it's still a little info sheet explaining how the stick works and is just a neat little collectible I'm looking to get $140 for everything, which includes shipping to anywhere in the lower 48 states as well as the goods and services fee on PayPal. And that also reminds me that I use PayPal only for my transactions and will give whoever's interested my email address upon purchase. I'll be sure to ship as quickly as possible--within 24 hours of purchase even--and send the buyer a tracking number via email immediately so they know everything is safe and on its way. I know that asking price is a bit steep and certainly not a steal but, like I said, money is just tight right now and I'm asking that much because that's essentially the amount I need--I'll still consider offers if high enough but I can't go much lower all things considered. I really respect the Atari Age community, which is also why I've chosen to list this exclusively here since I know it will go to a good home and be cherished as the collectible it is. Please let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to answer them as quickly as possible. I've tried to include a varied selection of photos (sorry they're not the best) but if you have any requests for more just ask and I'll try to take them and post and soon as I can. Thank you guys for looking and hopefully one of you will soon be the next proud owner of this little 5200 gem! P.S.: Sorry they're all rotated--the uploader did that and I don't know how to fix it. Sorry!
  7. After "OSx16 Multi Bankswitch Board": http://atariage.com/forums/topic/242873-diy-multi-bs-with-atmega8-for-atari-2600/ Just "OSx16 Joystick-Mice Adapter." With This Adapter, Connect Atari Standard Joystick To PC/LAPTOP. Connect Adapter To Serial RS-2323 Port (COM PORT) And Play Atari Games Under OSx16 Operating System With Joystick. With Only : 1xMCU (Atmega8A) 1xTransistor 5xResistor 1xCapacitor 3xDiode 1xDB-9 - Male 1xDB-9 - Female Firmware and "OSx16 Version 6.22 Beta CD-ROM" (Schematic and Values and Device Driver are In CD-ROM) Address : http://1drv.ms/1iE3ci3
  8. Hi, I bought my CX-40 at a flea market a while ago, it used to work great, but now it has a problem where to move right, I have to move it farther then all of the other directions. Also, the right contact seems to have a "Sweet spot", if I don't move the joystick to that sweet spot on the right contact, it won't register. Odds are someone will know what's wrong with it.
  9. Hi all, do you think this TouchPad would run on the TI ? Maybe with a homebrewn joystick - adapter ? It´s a "TouchPoint Graphis Tablet". My only info is that it may be for the /OffTopicMode: ON/ Commodore C64 ... /OffTopicMode: OFF/ thanks
  10. As I am continuing to develop my first game, I ran into an issue that I couldn't find any information on. I would like to have the system detect the controllers on startup. This way, I can support multiple controllers in the game without using the difficulty switches or some other U/I system to select controller types, simply plug-and-play. I first had the idea of using the fire button to get past the splash screen of the game. However, moving the joystick instead could put the game into paddle mode, which wouldn't be good. So instead, I discovered that you can simply dump the capacitors for the paddles, wait long enough (512 scanlines works), and then read INPT0 (and INPT2). And that's it. Here's the code I wrote, which works perfectly. If a paddle is connected to the left I/O port at startup, the screen will be red. Otherwise, the screen is black. CLEAN_START sta WSYNC ; ensure a whole scanline is spent dumping capacitors lda #$80 sta VBLANK ; dump paddle capacitors to ground WaitLoop sta WSYNC stx VBLANK ; (X=0) stop dumping capacitors sta WSYNC ; waste 2 scanlines per iteration dey ; Y starts and ends as 0 bne WaitLoop ; wait 512 scanlines in loop (511 after grounding caps) lda INPT0 ; D7 set if left paddle is connected, clear otherwise bpl Joystick lda #$46 ; set bg color to red to signify a paddle, else black sta COLUBK ; in a game, you would set a bit in RAM, instead Joystick I attached a .bin and the source code. Obviously, try it on a real system if you can, but it works in Stella, as well. paddletest.bin paddletest.asm
  11. I just received and tested one of these nifty units for hooking up a USB mouse to an Amiga. Plus it acts as a switch between a 9-pin joystick and the mouse (just click the LMB fof mouse or the joystick button for the joystick). It's a pretty darned cool adapter and auto-switch. So far I've tested it on an Amiga 500. http://www.ebay.com/itm/231881838496?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  12. I'm new here so please be gentle I did a search for my topic but nothing really showed up. Does anyone have a solution to the small 'white-ish' plastic ring breaking on the plastic 'stick' core of the CX40 - and other 3rd party joysticks (like Cirka). Right now what I've done has been to superglue the broken area with a generous amount, and then immerse it in baking soda which then hardens it up nicely. I did see a plan online to 3D print a solid insert (HERE) - but I can't get anyone close to me to produce it (probably not worthwhile). Thank you for your help - and again - I'm sorry if this has already been addressed.
  13. Hi all, This is my first post here, but been lurking and taking in all the useful advice re atari! I'm looking for one of the black plastic controller ports thats soldered on to the pcb of an atari flashback 3-7. Can anyone help me please? I currently have one good and one melted one, that I accidently destroyed whilst trying to remove for a raspberry pi project. Any help greatly appreciated!
  14. From the album: MarkO's 001

    My Uncle built this Joystick for the Sinclair ZX81, over 20 years ago.. It is setup to mimic Keyboard Presses..

    © 2014

  15. Who have found a replacement knob for the Vectrex Controller? One that fits the shaft as a screw on replacement. One that will still allow the controller to be stored. One that matches well. Chrome. Black. Light Gray. In metal or plastic. Preferably, one that does not destroy or degrade another old controller. But hey, Vectrex before Atari! or Tandy. One that is reasonably priced. Reasonably being somewhat mutable based on what it is. newly machined knob with chrome / polishing will be more expensive than a 3D printed knob.
  16. http://youtu.be/5zBgpxo1iFU A highlights video of some retro gaming magazines in my collection. Vintage arcade games, rare Nintendo articles, ads for games lost forgotten and much more.
  17. Hey guys, here we will discuss what games we want that we already do not have. You can put as many as you'd like but I'll just put ten. 1. Adventure 2. Moon Patrol 3. Combat (Mine has a black screen) 4. Demons To Diamonds 4. Indy 500 5. Millipede 6. Ice Hockey 7. River Raid II 8. Name This Game 9. Gravitar 10.Basketball
  18. From the album: My Home

    Here's a photo of me in my Cammy (from Super Street Fighter II) costume playing my Commodore 64 DTV, which is an all-in-one Commodore 64 reproduction with built-in games all inside a Competition Pro style joystick. It runs on AA batteries and has an AV output cord which plugs into your TV.
  19. I was surprised at the dismal condition my joysticks were in when I tested them with the Pocket Joystick Tester. When an LED did not light, I know it was broken but most of the time they would dim, blink, or change light intensity as the switches were activated. These are sure signs that the contacts need cleaning. If I’m going to clean the contacts I may as well take some pictures to share. Quick Shot II Turbo I’m not sure where I got this joystick or if it has ever been opened up. There appears to be some rework but this could have been done to solve some design and manufacturing problems. There weren’t any broken parts in the base? The following information is molded on the bottom between the 4 suction cups. Quick Shot II Turbo Model # QS-111 UK. Design Reg.No. 10333206 The “auto fire – manual – and CPC 464” switch controls the trigger firing mode. In auto-fire the triggers continually fire at a rate determined by circuit component design. The CPC 464 setting is for use with the Amstrad CPC 464 computer. The contacts look heavy duty. The spring and flap work together to make a distinctive click and contact. As the spring is pushed down by a pin on the shaft, the flap flips down and makes contact with a metal rod soldered in the board. The cable for this joystick requires 7 wires instead of the normal 6 wire cable of the Atari Joystick. The extra wire is used to provide 5V to the auto-fire circuit. (and can be useful for many joystick port hardware projects) The bottom of the shaft did seem to have some modifications done to it. Two of the pins that push on the springs had plastic tubing over them. I’m supposing they are to improve spring contact. The brackets that hold the shaft in place have markings that make me believe they may have been modified. Both may have been done to improve performance.
  20. Lots of pics ahead. Hello, everyone! I am parting out my Atari 5200. The audio circuit is toast, and the cost of another board is more than I want to invest in it. Also, I want to put some 5200 parts out there that might be needed by fellow collectors waiting for them. I have a number of 5200 parts for sale, and they are all working 100%. All prices include shipping to the US 48 contiguous states. I accept PayPal or local pickup. Here we go! SOLD (2) Atari 5200 CX52 Gold Rebuilt Joysticks. I personally ordered the gold kits from Best at about $50 each with the shipping. I personally rebuilt and tested the joysticks. They have about three plays each on them from testing. As Best says, they should be lifetime joysticks. I can sell them as a pair shipped together or individually. $79 shipped individually, $150 shipped together if bought by the same person. (1) Atari 5200 Power Supply. Works 100%. $25 shipped. (1) Atari 5200 RF Adapter. Works 100%. $25 shipped. SOLD (1) Atari controller storage door. The plastic door at the back of the unit that always gets broken or someone already lost. This one has been polished up nicely and has only a few scuffs left here and there. Bottom hinge points are intact. $25 shipped. (1) RF Metal Shield. Shiny and complete. $10 (1) Atari 5200 Box. It’s complete and all sides are present. I’d guess it had styro when new, but empty currently. If you’re looking for one, and don’t have one yet, you can do much worse than this one. I’ve displayed it in my collection and thought it looked good. Most boxes seem to go around $80 on eBay. I can do $40. Games, games, games! Priced as marked, includes shipping to con US 48. All are tested and working. Boxed Games All five are complete boxes. They all have tab wear where they are opened and closed, but the bottoms are great. See pics for more detailed look at them. (1) Super Breakout – includes box, cart, overlays. $7 (1) Centipede – includes box, cart, manual, and overlays. $7 (1) Missile Command – includes box, cart, and overlays. $7 (1) Pac-Man – includes box, cart, and overlays. $7 (1) Pole Position – includes box, cart, and manual. $7 Loose Games (1) Centipede $4 (1) Pac-Man $4 (1) Missile Command $4 (1) Football $4 (1) Galaxian $4 (1) Star Raiders $4 (1) Pac-Man $4 (1) Star Raiders $4 (1) Super Breakout $4 (1) Galaxian $4 (1) Pac-Man $4 (1) Galaxian $4 (1) Super Breakout $4 (1) Dig Dug $4 That’s the list! If you see something you’d like, but don’t like the price, make me an offer. I’m flexible. It’s more important to me to get this stuff out to the Atari community than to try to make big bucks. Also, adding pictures over the next few minutes as the forum allows. Thanks, everyone! - Blaine Pics of first joystick:
  21. I'm trying to figure out which is best for my 2nd Atari 2600 CX-40 joystick (less cutting down white joystick handle), Tactile Push Button Tact Switch Momentary (height) 5mm, 4.3mm, or 3.8mm? Which does everyone else use? I've enclosed an image of the one(s) I'm looking at. Thank you.
  22. Mark (or anyone)... I cannot find any documentation about using the TurboForth word JOYST except in the TF v1.1 Release Notes: JOYST ( jstick# -- value) modified to invert the returned value, making decoding much simpler. JOYST also resets the screen blanking counter in the console interrupt routine to prevent screen blanking. Unfortunately, this is not very helpful to me. In TI Forth, three values are left on the stack (ASCII, xpos, ypos). I have no idea how to use TF's word. I cannot even get it to respond with a value other than 0 when I use it in a loop in the emulators for joystick #1, i.e., 1 JOYST . I am trying to use the keyboard emulation of joystick #1 (Q,W,E,R,S,D,Z,X,C). ...lee
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