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Found 55 results

  1. http://youtu.be/5zBgpxo1iFU A highlights video of some retro gaming magazines in my collection. Vintage arcade games, rare Nintendo articles, ads for games lost forgotten and much more.
  2. Mark (or anyone)... I cannot find any documentation about using the TurboForth word JOYST except in the TF v1.1 Release Notes: JOYST ( jstick# -- value) modified to invert the returned value, making decoding much simpler. JOYST also resets the screen blanking counter in the console interrupt routine to prevent screen blanking. Unfortunately, this is not very helpful to me. In TI Forth, three values are left on the stack (ASCII, xpos, ypos). I have no idea how to use TF's word. I cannot even get it to respond with a value other than 0 when I use it in a loop in the emulators for joystick #1, i.e., 1 JOYST . I am trying to use the keyboard emulation of joystick #1 (Q,W,E,R,S,D,Z,X,C). ...lee
  3. Lots of pics ahead. Hello, everyone! I am parting out my Atari 5200. The audio circuit is toast, and the cost of another board is more than I want to invest in it. Also, I want to put some 5200 parts out there that might be needed by fellow collectors waiting for them. I have a number of 5200 parts for sale, and they are all working 100%. All prices include shipping to the US 48 contiguous states. I accept PayPal or local pickup. Here we go! SOLD (2) Atari 5200 CX52 Gold Rebuilt Joysticks. I personally ordered the gold kits from Best at about $50 each with the shipping. I personally rebuilt and tested the joysticks. They have about three plays each on them from testing. As Best says, they should be lifetime joysticks. I can sell them as a pair shipped together or individually. $79 shipped individually, $150 shipped together if bought by the same person. (1) Atari 5200 Power Supply. Works 100%. $25 shipped. (1) Atari 5200 RF Adapter. Works 100%. $25 shipped. SOLD (1) Atari controller storage door. The plastic door at the back of the unit that always gets broken or someone already lost. This one has been polished up nicely and has only a few scuffs left here and there. Bottom hinge points are intact. $25 shipped. (1) RF Metal Shield. Shiny and complete. $10 (1) Atari 5200 Box. It’s complete and all sides are present. I’d guess it had styro when new, but empty currently. If you’re looking for one, and don’t have one yet, you can do much worse than this one. I’ve displayed it in my collection and thought it looked good. Most boxes seem to go around $80 on eBay. I can do $40. Games, games, games! Priced as marked, includes shipping to con US 48. All are tested and working. Boxed Games All five are complete boxes. They all have tab wear where they are opened and closed, but the bottoms are great. See pics for more detailed look at them. (1) Super Breakout – includes box, cart, overlays. $7 (1) Centipede – includes box, cart, manual, and overlays. $7 (1) Missile Command – includes box, cart, and overlays. $7 (1) Pac-Man – includes box, cart, and overlays. $7 (1) Pole Position – includes box, cart, and manual. $7 Loose Games (1) Centipede $4 (1) Pac-Man $4 (1) Missile Command $4 (1) Football $4 (1) Galaxian $4 (1) Star Raiders $4 (1) Pac-Man $4 (1) Star Raiders $4 (1) Super Breakout $4 (1) Galaxian $4 (1) Pac-Man $4 (1) Galaxian $4 (1) Super Breakout $4 (1) Dig Dug $4 That’s the list! If you see something you’d like, but don’t like the price, make me an offer. I’m flexible. It’s more important to me to get this stuff out to the Atari community than to try to make big bucks. Also, adding pictures over the next few minutes as the forum allows. Thanks, everyone! - Blaine Pics of first joystick:
  4. I'm trying to figure out which is best for my 2nd Atari 2600 CX-40 joystick (less cutting down white joystick handle), Tactile Push Button Tact Switch Momentary (height) 5mm, 4.3mm, or 3.8mm? Which does everyone else use? I've enclosed an image of the one(s) I'm looking at. Thank you.
  5. It could be based on the Coin controls joystick, the Wico controller, or it could be designed like the colecovision Super action controller. another idea is to make reproductions of the plastic direction restrict-or that sat on top of the 5200 analog joystick, restricting its movement to 4 directions only, thus making games like Pacman, Ms,pacman, Q*bert, missile command, and Miner 2049er better to play. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :spidey:
  6. I have seen a lot of adapters to convert a controller/joystick for use on one system to use on a completely different system. Such as the PSX to Vectrex adapter. I have also seen USB adapters to allow the use of an original controller/joystick on a PC in order to have a better experience in an emulator. But I have not yet noticed an adapter to allow a smartphone/table (Android, iPhone, etc) to act as a replacement controller. Effectively turing the smartphone/table into a controller you can connect to an old/new console. Has anyone seen a adapter to connect a USB / Dock / Lightning port to an console port of a classic console? (Vectrex, Atari, Intellivision, SNES, Sega,etc) Would be nice to use a tablet or a smartphone as a replacement controller. While not a joystick, there could still be some upsides. Such as an virtual controller app that would allow the following: Remapping of the controls. Repositioning of the controls. Emulation of analog controls in the smartphone/tablet with corresponding analog output to the console. Such as a the analog joystick in the Vectrex and other systems. Emulation of keypad controls in the smartphone/tablet with corresponding output to the console. Such as a the keypad in the Intellivision and other systems. Macros for use during game play. Skins and other graphics to replicate to the look and feel of the original controller in the app on smartphone/tablet. In addition simply replacing the controller, I could see the adapter taking things further for those systems that have some two-way I/O capability possibility. Obviously some code would be needed on both the console and the smartphone/tablet app to allow for this interface to work. I can see many older systems supporting this idea. Even the Vectrex. The following features and more might be supported. Allow the smartphone/tablet to act as a rumble controller giving the player physical feedback. Emulation of other non-standard keypads, joysticks, and other controllers, etc. that are hard to obtain due to rarity or price. Allow the smartphone/tablet to provide audible feedback. Effectively turning the external device into another sound interface for the console. Beeps. full range sounds. Music. Voice synthesis, etc Allow the smartphone/tablet/other device act as a secondary display for the console to a limited degree. Obviously this would vary by system and communication speed on the console port. Other generalized I/O allowing other things to be accomplished not mentioned above . What do you all think? What have you already seen? .
  7. /RANT MODE ON Okay, heres the deal... the TI Joystick only has ONE FREAKING BUTTON! Now, even TI's most popular game of all time, Parsec, required buttons 1,2 & 3 for game play and P for pause. Many other games require ENTER, SPACE, 1 or 2 just to start the game play. Still other games require might require "Q" or "." to fire. So what does this mean? YOU CAN NEVER GET FAR FROM THE KEYBOARD when playing! What can be done about this? What method would you take to MODERNIZE the TI's game play ability? Going in and soldering on to the keyboard matrix is fine for a one-off or a custom job, but is there anyway a KIT could be made "for the masses"? Heck maybe even an interface board for an existing controller would work. Something needs to be done, my question is what and how? /RANT MODE OFF
  8. Looking for a pair of black 100% working and in nice condition. I can Pay via verified Paypal, please PM me if you have a set, also please include pics if you can and state your price shipped to 97007, Oregon, USA. Thanks
  9. Hi, I have a Commodore 64 which I was able to expand to 4 joystick ports using Protovision 4 Player Interface http://www.protovision-online.com/hardw/4_player.php?language=en Is there an Atari 800 XL equivalent solution, Thanks
  10. I was surprised at the dismal condition my joysticks were in when I tested them with the Pocket Joystick Tester. When an LED did not light, I know it was broken but most of the time they would dim, blink, or change light intensity as the switches were activated. These are sure signs that the contacts need cleaning. If I’m going to clean the contacts I may as well take some pictures to share. Quick Shot II Turbo I’m not sure where I got this joystick or if it has ever been opened up. There appears to be some rework but this could have been done to solve some design and manufacturing problems. There weren’t any broken parts in the base? The following information is molded on the bottom between the 4 suction cups. Quick Shot II Turbo Model # QS-111 UK. Design Reg.No. 10333206 The “auto fire – manual – and CPC 464” switch controls the trigger firing mode. In auto-fire the triggers continually fire at a rate determined by circuit component design. The CPC 464 setting is for use with the Amstrad CPC 464 computer. The contacts look heavy duty. The spring and flap work together to make a distinctive click and contact. As the spring is pushed down by a pin on the shaft, the flap flips down and makes contact with a metal rod soldered in the board. The cable for this joystick requires 7 wires instead of the normal 6 wire cable of the Atari Joystick. The extra wire is used to provide 5V to the auto-fire circuit. (and can be useful for many joystick port hardware projects) The bottom of the shaft did seem to have some modifications done to it. Two of the pins that push on the springs had plastic tubing over them. I’m supposing they are to improve spring contact. The brackets that hold the shaft in place have markings that make me believe they may have been modified. Both may have been done to improve performance.
  11. What can you possibly say about the WICO Command Control Joystick that hasn’t been written? Not much. I was able to clean the leaf spring switch contacts and restore the continuity but never could figure out how to dismantle the bat stick. There was little difference between the two joysticks that were rebuilt. Inside, one was marked 2/7/83 and the other 11/??/82. The color of the plastic changed but the design was similar. There are lots of posts and stops in the base that hold its inners in place. It was good fortune that the rattling sounds from inside were not broken pins. What was rattling around were the tits from the rubber feet that broke allowing the feet to fall off. It looked like they had melted and hardened. The old rubber was scrapped out and the feet were replaced with adhesive backed “Vinyl Pads” ½” diameter. (ACE hardware # 5182423). They probably sold more when they called them “Bumpers” rather than joystick feet replacements.
  12. A noted here, I got my 2 Classic USB Joystick Controllers from Legacy Engineering Group on Thursday, September 3, 2009. I ordered from Google Checkout on October 15, 2008, so they were a long time coming. L.E.G. had trouble with Google Checkout, they got many more orders than they anticipated (I think), and Curt Vendel of L.E.G. had some serious health issues that slowed him down a good bit. However, these joysticks were well worth the cost and the wait. There was no software to install. I just plugged them into my computer (running Windows XP) and was able to play games in Stella!
  13. --- Ω ---

    Joystick Bottom

    From the album: Super Joystick... RETURNS!

    Even the bottom looks good!

    © © 2014 - Kevan Coleman

  14. --- Ω ---

    Joystick Top

    From the album: Super Joystick... RETURNS!

    Years ago I built a joystick that would not give me hand fatigue. After I sold my TI decades ago I never thought I'd see my little friend again. I'm glad I was wrong!

    © © 2014 - Kevan Coleman

  15. From the album: My Home

    A photo of me in my Cammy (from Super Street Fighter II) costume playing Babylonian Twins on my Amiga 500 with a QuickShot Python joystick, my favourite non-arcade style joystick. Babylonian Twins has been updated and ported to iOS and Android devices now and is highly recommended if you have those systems.
  16. PeBo

    CX10 and CX 40 parts

    If no one on these forums has any of these, would appreciate being pointed in the right direction to find them (or instructions on how to navigate the Best Electronics site to actually BUY something (or even FIND CX10 parts)!) I am looking for: - Replacement springs (x5) for a CX10 Heavy Sixer (will take larger quantity if required) - Plastic board (not sure what it's called) that CX10 springs fit into and that covers the PCB to depress the metal domes. (x1) - Button springs (x2) for CX40 - Replacement posts ((white post with ring on bottom that slides inside the rubber sleeve (x4)) for CX40 And if someone has one for sale(ya right)... a beige (grey?) CX40 as released with the XE game console. Will require shipping to Canada.
  17. I'm just wondering if anyone around here might still have a new old stock Wico Command Control bat top style joystick for Atari systems that they might be interested in selling? I do have a couple other purchases I have to make first so I wouldn't be in a position to buy one until April, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask around in advance and see if anyone had one they'd be interested in selling and if so what they'd like to get for it price wise. Just shoot me a PM if you happen to have one that you'd like to sell.
  18. For sale, Commodore 64 arcade joystick: The Commodore 64 Pro CX-1000 Arcade Joystick will work with both the Commodore 64 and Atari 2600. The Commodore 64 Pro is custom made with a genuine arcade quality Industrias Lorenzo 8-Way EuroJoystick with CHERRY microswitches. Button(s) are Happ concave buttons. The iL Eurojoystick may be better known as the original HAPP Competition. iL (Industrias Lorenzo) is a Spanish manufacturer of high quality and extremely durable arcade parts. Originally known for manufacturing HAPP parts (such as the Happ Competition Joystick) until HAPP moved production to SUZO facilities in China, iL continued to provide high quality parts under their own label. Highly sought out by cabinet builders since the quality standard is higher than the new, yet slightly lower quality HAPP standard. Shipping cost depends on location. It varies from $9 up to $18 (Priority mail with tracking). If you send your zip code I can give you an estimate. Paypal Accepted. $63.95
  19. I just thought I could get a quick question about this project I found (http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/atari_usb/index_en.php) which uses a ATMega8a. In the schematic, they connect the analog pins the the Atari 9-pin port. This makes sense for pins 5 and 9, which are used for the POTs, but shouldn't the designer of the circuit use the digital pins for the joystick pins?
  20. Looking for at least 1 original Heavy Sixer Joystick controller. It doesn't have to work but it needs to have the original parts (with or without the Hex). Structurally sound and not cracked or chewed up. (Within UK or will post to UK) PM me if you happen to have any. -AJ UPDATE ---------------- FOUND SOME--------------------
  21. Looking for a little help with the Windows version of Atari800 (not Atari800Win Plus) - over on the emulation board - joypad options... sTeVE
  22. Does anyone know a way, from the command line, that I can disable the built in joystick setup in this emulator? By default the emulator seems to work with any connected USB (or in my case bluetooth Xbox One Pad) - but the button layout is horrific, it assigns all buttons to fire!!! So I would like to use Xpadder to control the emulator and script my own buttons to hotkeys to control it better. But because the joypad is always being used I cannot do that. In the Windows version I can find no command line switch to turn off the pad - there is a "-nojoystick" in theSDL version :-( Anyone got any ideas? sTeVE
  23. --- Ω ---

    Joystick

    From the album: --- Ω ---

    The joystick I use with my TI-99/4A Classic Computer.
  24. I have two joysticks, and they both work. However, on one the joystick is really has to move. Suggestions? I will post pic
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