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Showing results for tags 'Joystick'.
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Let me preface this by saying that this is my first time on AtariAge and frankly, I'm a kid who has no idea what he's doing- But that's why I'm here! Also apologies if this isn't the right place for this post. Let me know if I should repost in another place. It's my Dad's birthday soon and he's always dreamed of being able to play Robotron 2084 with arcade joysticks again. I'm trying to find the easiest and cheapest way to get him that experience again. I have Midway Arcade Treasures on Gamecube, but the Gamecube controller joysticks don't do the trick for him. I also am in no position to spend thousands of dollars on a cabinet or buy parts and learn to make one. I wish there were a console/emulator(?) I could buy that I could connect via HDMI into a TV, and a dual joystick setup that I could plug into it. What's the easiest way to play Robotron 2084 with classic arcade joysticks? Thank you all in advance. Apologies again for my ignorance of any of this. I've tried doing some research on my own, but it's been more complicated than I expected.
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After experimenting for weeks I have found a way to get lag-free control on the 5200 digital games as well as a few of the Trakball titles with the X-arcade Tankstick and my custom Tron 80's Arcade Multicontroller (which includes a spinner). This is done with daisy-chained adapters/cables and all the components are currently in production, so it's possible for anyone to get this set up. In the presentation I show a number of 5200 games being played in ways you've not seen them played before on the 5200 including Pac-Man, Beamrider, Choplifter, Dreadnaught Factor, Meteorites, Star Trek, and Zone Ranger. Hope some of you can benefit from this: -
There's now a way to use the X-Arcade Tankstick trackball on your 7800 to play some specific games that really can be extra fun with that kind of controller. The games I have in mind are Alien Brigade, Centipede, Crossbow, Crack'd, Commando, Dark Chambers, and Xevious. I've spent some time figuring out what adapters are necessary to accomplish this, and even included info on using other PC compatible controllers like my custom Tron 80's Arcade multicontroller with the 7800. Check it out:
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Intellivision controller membrane replacement
AlwaysOnPlanetPatrol posted a blog entry in Rose-Tinted Recollections
Other than my main Atari 7800 console, the other (retro) console that gets a workout in my household is the Intellivision. I've always found the controls frustrating, especially the disc. Since I have two systems, I can actually compare what they are supposed to be like since one seems to have the controls working properly. The unit that's a bit more beat up cosmetically is the one that seems to function better. So I'd like to get the main unit we use working in the same way. I searched for replacement controllers, considering building my own out of arcade parts, and even debated about swapping the controllers. In the end I came across RWAP's replacement membranes. Interesting enough, I found the original thread here at AA after purchasing them. I have an Intellivision I, made in Hong Kong circa 1979 so I figured perhaps over the years the component degraded and worthwhile doing the replacement. I ordered mine and about a week or so they arrived from the UK. May have arrived sooner but with Covid-19 I wasn't really going to the mailbox every day. The pair of membranes look in pristine condition and pretty much identical keypad buttons. Here we are in 2020 and one can get amazing parts for an old system. Having done replacements in various Atari controllers, the Intellivision version takes more patience and I personally found it tricky. Unscrewing the controllers shows the simple (non-)mechanical nature of this controller. The trick to get these out is to slide the side buttons up. The 5 layers should come off easily. My circuit boards said REV E 1 and 2 for each of the controllers. The Replacement Process Open the controller by removing the four screws Once open take out the disk and the spring. Keep track of the plastic thin disc that goes between the two controller layers. Slide up the two side buttons. Pull out the entire plastic circuits. Nothing should be attacked or glued to the controller. I suggest you make a note of the order. The replacement pieces come gently pre-folded. On the two shorter keypad pieces do a proper fold on the two sides. The better you fold it, the nicer it will sit snugly on the controller. On my controller, the attached foam pad ended up being too thick. I used the replacement pad provided. Peel the thicker pad gently. Fold the longer membrane with the clear piece sitting in between. DO NOT fold it too much or you may break the circuit lines, fold in the clear sections to keep its shape. No that the disc contacts are set lower than the keyboard, so you will need to. There should be two plastic pins above and below the keyboard that allow you to guide the mylar replacements and provide alignment. The tricky part will be to replace it. Align the longer parts focusing on the keypad section. Place the two smaller keypad pieces above it. Push the two side button sections in and put the buttons back in. You may need to push the sides in a bit more although I found the action of putting the buttons back helped. Make sure the disc section sits centrally. Place the white disk between the clear and the bottom layer. Place the spring and the plastic disc controller over the circuit. Screw the controller case back in. I should note that the first time I installed it, I skipped the plastic thin disc and nothing worked properly. That's when I also noticed the bulge due to the thicker pad. Layer Order The layer with the circuit contacts with the foam attachment goes to the very bottom, while the gold keypad will be the top layer. The transparent long piece will go in between the two longer circuit membranes. Observations It's a tricky set-up and takes patience. Before this I never bothered to see how the internals of the Intellivision worked. It's great that RWAP included the thinner variety of the foam pad. For Snafu or Space Armada, I can notice the difference. For Pac-Man and Lock'n'Chase it's pretty much the same, so I'm guessing it's the game or my skill. I will probably order another pair just to have the parts. I'd love to find replacement brand-new side buttons or disc just to spruce things up a bit. Overall I'm very happy with the replacement part. -
Today I've got something interesting to share in the 2600 controller department. There is now an Ebay adapter that you can obtain pretty cheaply (made by Atariage member, Ikonsgr) that gets a PC USB mouse/trackball working on the 2600. The catch is that: #1) only USB mice and trackballs that have PS/2 compatibility will work (and those that have PS/2 plugs need to be adapted to USB with a cheap little green PS/2 to USB adapter). #2) This only works with the digital games (not the paddle games). The really great news is that #1 can be remedied by buying an Aten KVM switch that converts USB (non-PS/2) mice and trackballs into PS/2 compatible devices. These are not cheap (over $50), but can open up possibilities of playing your 5200 with some quite interesting controllers, including the X-Arcade Tankstick which has a trackball (shown in the picture below) and this as well: https://www.ign.com/articles/2006/02/03/x-arcade-trackball-review The video below starts with using the 2600 to play Mines of Minos, Cosmic Swarm, Centipede, and Off the Wall, and then goes on to the 7800. I start the explanation about the X-Arcade Tankstick trackball around 16 and a half minutes in (showing it work with 7800 Centipede) so you'll probably want to not miss that part. Also there's 5200 compatibility with an additional adapter so that might interest you as well. Hope this is beneficial to some of you The products: Here's the link to the PC USB mouse/trackball to 9 pin Atari adapter (sometimes the Ebay product goes out of stock, and then gets restocked, so definitely keep checking back if it's not available): https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Mouse-Adapter-For-Atari-ST-Amiga-Amstrad-Commodore-9pin-DB9-Joystick-Port/274204936054 Here are two links for the PS/2 to USB mini green adapter (1st one may not be based in the U.S. & is cheaper): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UMX89XA#Ask https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GUV4UK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MOoDEb7Y5HZVV The Aten KVM Switch (Model CS82U) is necessary to get non-PS/2 mice and trackballs working on your Atari systems and is found here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QOBZXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZgpDEbQPRJ199
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As highlighted here and to pick up on what was first mentioned in this thread posting, I recently acquired one of these controllers and wanted to offer up my findings and brief review. First and foremost, the controller is not only "Quick Fire" when the switch is in the "on" position, it is also continuous. If you hold down the (wired for 7800 two independent functioning) fire buttons, the controller will continue firing as if you were smashing the original Atari 7800 joystick buttons in a non-stop fast action pace. Although not in possession of one, it is presumed the no longer manufactured Best Joystick CX34 (Thanks, Mitch) works in the same manner. The only difference between the two, is likely just the label of "Quick" for the Telegames controller, and "Auto" for the Best controller, concerning the buttons functionality switch. The joystick 'moves less digital' than the original 7800 joysticks and reminiscent of the NES Advantage joystick movement (Almost analogue-ish); however, it certainly does not behave that way in action while playing. It has quick accurate response, even under some of the most trying conditions of a fast-speed Ms. Pac-Man game. The downside is the joystick shaft appears as long as the original, so a similar amount of torque is present. The other item worth mentioning is the plastics utilized feels a tad bit less solid than the stock controllers. The base of the controller wrapped in my palm did not feel as 'thick' as the original 7800 joysticks. Regardless, despite hand positioning being the same to the original 7800 joystick controllers, the quick fire feature is a huge plus in reducing fatigue for games requiring constant button pressing. Those interested in such a feature while wanting to retain a similar stock/original controller design of the NTSC 7800 system, this may be the controller for you. It is also worth mentioning the buttons themselves are mounted and work better than the stock 7800 joystick even with the quick fire feature turned off.
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So I decided to build myself an arcade authentic, full-featured twin-stick arcade controller for the 5200...to properly enjoy the 5200 ports of Space Dungeon and Robotron: 2084. Lots of people have made Robotron: 2084 themed controllers, I've even built one for the 8-Bit/7800, so I figured I'd break the mold and build one themed for the 5200 exclusive arcade port of Space Dungeon. So unveiling my Space Dungeon Edition - VVG Experience Controller: Built into a beefed-up Hammond Mfg 20" x 11.25" aluminum enclosure and featuring: (2) iL EuroJoystick, 8-way joysticks w/ round restrictors (2) iL SST threaded top joystick shafts (2) Groovy Game Gear Hard Candy ball knobs (white) (2) Groovy Game Gear Classx push-buttons, w/ True-Leaf Pro leaf-swtiches (1) Grayhill 16 tactile button keypad, w/ custom button legends (6/6) Potentiometers, allowing for full adjustment of each joystick's maximum left, center, maximum right & maximum up, center, and maximum down resistance values for maximum game and console compatibility Custom CPO artwork based on the original arcade cabinet Custom 8' dual controller cord, cable assembly And obviously as the P1/P2 start buttons aren't required for Space Dungeon, they are wired as the 2 5200 fire buttons used in conjunction with the left joystick, thus giving this controller compatibility with the vast majority of the 5200 game library. The only games not playable are the few games that require "analog positioning", like Kaboom!, Super Breakout, Pole Position, Missile Command and a couple of others. Enjoy!- 20 replies
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There I was, in garage sale heaven. Standing over a box of second hand XBOX controllers. I got a little less excited when I noted how second hand they were. I thought I would salvage parts and asked, "How much?". She said, "$2". I said, "OK." He looked like he just lost an old friend and his wife was telling herself, "I should have said 3!" Fast forward 16 months and I'm sorting them into a box labeled "electronic recycle" because I was to lazy to open them up for salvage. One did catch my eye, it was an undersize wireless controller that made me think, "Can the d-pad and a trigger button be wired to plug into my Atari?" Fast forward another couple of months and I'm playing Star Raiders with an XBOX Controller. At least one got saved from the landfill. -------------------------------------------------------------------- These photos were taken for reference. 1 - The controller was a 2.4 Ghz wireless MadCatz. (Receiver not avalible.) 2 - The main board after removing the transmitter and battery holder. 3 - Removed 2 screws and lifted the D-pad. 4 - Cut off existing wires. 5 - Solder wire for up, down, left, right, and Ground (common). Note wire colors, mine not standard. 6 - Contacts in placed and wires routed. One of the cross pieces in the plastic bracket needed to be remove for the board to sit flat. Solder joint interference. 7 - Cut a notch in case for CX40 cable. 8 - Solder 2 wires for trigger switch. One for the trigger pin and one for the ground. (solder joints are for a different design that didn't work so well. They didn't need to be moved.) 9 - Clean off resistive material across B contacts and solder micro switch as close to center as you can. Be sure the plunger will make contact with button. (the wires could have been soldered to the push button switch and glued into place.) 10 - Solder leads to joystick cable. UP-Pin1, Down - Pin2, Left - Pin3, Right - Pin4, Trigger - Pin6, and other side of trigger and common on d-pad - Pin8. 11 - Because the push button was to high, the plunger needed to sanded shorter. 12 - On the upper case, the button guide required some material removal to keep from depressing the switch. 13 - Put the case together. Be sure wires are not pinched or interfering with button movements. The case was opened and closed several times to make modification before the trigger reliably worked. I was really close to giving up. There was a bit of lucky with the d-pad. This joystick tester came in handy. I think it saved me more time then it took to build it.
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Hey Guys... I'm wondering if enough people have some version of the Flashback joysticks to start to actually start checking for those special button presses (I believe one of them is "left+right", something you would never hit in real life games... except maybe for Track & Field), one of them is "up+down", etc. There should be a list somewhere of this button mapping... I think I may start doing that, as I can't see it hurting anything. If someone doesn't have the joystick, there's always the 'Start & Select' on the console... Bob Also, (unrelated topic) - I bought one of those hyperkin joysticks (the one with the two buttons on it), and I'm going to rewire it to be the left & right buttons for the 7800... just because of Baby Pac-Man... Much easier to use -
From the album: My Home
A photo of me in my Cammy (from Super Street Fighter II) costume playing Babylonian Twins on my Amiga 500 with a QuickShot Python joystick, my favourite non-arcade style joystick. Babylonian Twins has been updated and ported to iOS and Android devices now and is highly recommended if you have those systems. -
Hi guys! I and my friend decided to bring something new to you. The joystick. But we need some feedback before it. Description: We decided to find out a way how to make new Atari Joysticks and similar joysticks with 3D printer. We try to have as similar as possible construction for the same impression of playing games like the original old joysticks. But we have one thing in our construction different. Our Stick will be exchangeable and modulable. We will have more types of sticks and you can choose what type you want. Sticks will have different shape, size etc. Our questions are: 1) Is this idea interesting for you? 2) Are you looking for some new joystick because your old was damaged? 3) What types of sticks do you prefer? What joysticks do you like? What was your favourite joystick in 80/90's? ( CX40, QuickShot etc. ) 4) Would you like exchangeable stick at your joystick ( when you will get tired of the old type of stick you can simply change it for another one ) or you'd rather buy another new joystick when you want to exchange the stick? 5) Is the autofire function important for you? 6) How long stick movement do you prefer? ( short movement is like pressing a small button, long movement is like pressing a key on your keyboard ) 7) Do you like an idea that you can buy only the 3D data for your 3D printer and make it for your own? 8) Do you have some tips why this idea doesn't make sense? For example you can buy really new QuickShot on Ebay etc. Progress: Thank you for your time, sharing and answers! Best regards, EnJoyStick Team
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*** NOW AVAILABLE !!! *** Special Collector's Box Edition of Rain of Terror... with Joystick support !! By popular request, Rain of Terror now includes Joystick support !! (also still supports the original Paddle experience as well of course) Rob and I have also made some other minor enhancements to the game. This updated version with Joystick support is available now as a physically-packaged Collector's Box Edition including: - Custom full-color Collector's Box (illustrated front+back and inside) - Illustrated User’s manual - Program disk with printed label and disk sleeve: Side 1: Rain of Terror (New Joystick + Paddle version) Side 2: Bonus material - Each limited box and disk is printed with a unique serial number - Some additional surprise items will be included in the box, just for fun For a limited time: While supplies last, the Collector's Box Edition will feature a very cool BLUE floppy disk! $28 USD plus shipping from the USA. To order or get a shipping quote: PM me on AtariAge, or you can email me at erichennekeATgmailDOTcom Thanks!!! -Eric
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I have a Joystick controller that came from an Atari Flashback console (Flashback 2 I believe) that has worked fine until recently. All of a sudden the right direction stopped working. I took it apart and re-soldered the wire for the right direction, but nothing changed. At first it went up when I pressed it to the right, but that was only due to a sloppy soldering job (the solder was connecting the right and up directions). After fixing this, the problem was not fixed. Would it be a problem with the controller's connection to the console? If anyone has any advice I appreciate it. -
Just wanted to share here today that I've managed to find the best method for getting a mouse working on quite a few 5200 games- 1 and 2 button 5200 games. Here's what you need: 1) A Masterplay Clone that doesn't only make Atari joysticks compatible with the 5200 but has 2-button game compatibility designed to get Sega Genesis controllers working (mine was the 2016 model made by Atariage member, Atariguy1021) 2) A Commodore 64 mouse (model 1351) 3) a 9 pin splitter cable (1 female end to 2 male ends) and a Sega Genesis controller- this is only necessary if you're wanting to play the 2 button games. The setup is explained in my latest presentation which includes a lot of gameplay footage:
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I've got a few Atari controller secrets to reveal which some of you may have never come upon. Here's the lowdown: 1) the Atari CX-22 Trakball has a desirable feature that the later-released black CX-80 Trakball doesn't have. In fact, there are other 2600-compatible trackballs that have this feature as well... 2) The combo paddle/joystick 2600 controllers made by Sears and Coleco are not as effective to play paddle games on a light sixer or heavy sixer unless you have a particular item to use with the controller. There are some people here who may have never known about this. 3) Omega Race is a two-button game requiring a special "Booster Grip" to properly play it. Some may not have that Booster Grip, but there is another way to play the game... and a controller from another gaming console is the key. 4) There's a particular mouse that can be used to play 2600 games, but there's a trick that you have to know in order to make it "active". I've got all this explained in today's presentation on my Wired-up Retro Ytube channel. Enjoy:
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Not my video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zd3GD2NO3dI I searched the forums and couldn't find anything. I must be getting senile in my old age - I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to pair the joysticks to the FB9 Gold via Bluetooth until I found the video. The Bluetooth pairing insert in the package was barely readable and confusing. (Off-topic) At least they included an HDMI cable in the box. Edit: Apologies to Bill Loguidice for the negative comment regarding AtGames. It was not meant to offend (admittedly it was not in good taste) but to comment on how the clarity of the instructions could have been improved. I have removed the offending remark. -
Okay this isn't necessarily the right forum for this question but it's the closest I can think of where someone might actually know what I'm talking about and have an answer. So if you open up a typical Atari 2600 joystick, the wires that connect to the circuit board have (on the end of them) a tiny clamp which slides onto a trace on the board. Sometimes when I open up a joystick to repair it this is broken. I want to order some replacements. I can't seem to figure out what this part is called in order to search for it. Example: The closest I can find is a search for "wire crimps" from mouser.com but none of those look quite right.
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I designed a circuit that allows the use of a PS2 controller to be used on an ATARI 2600 or ATARI 7800 gaming console. What I would like to know is if there would be any interest for this being turned into real a product? Of course the actual size of the product would be much smaller and more manageable. Please see my demo on YouTube: More info about me can be found here: https://www.linkedin.com/in/afabrizi/
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Hi, I have an Atari 5200, but need more ways to use joysticks/controllers than just the refurbished orginal ones. I wonder if someone here sells/makes connections/adaptors/cables to make PC 15 pin joysticks or say Sega Master/Genesis controller on the Atari 5200. Regards, -
Various good stuff I'll be sad to part with, all items are loose and without retail packaging, suggested prices not including shipping, Nintendo Bioforce Ape prototype reproduction cartridge $40 Atari Telemach 200 joystick - import with IL arcade components, switch for Amiga compatibility $85 Vectrex Control panel $80 Minestorm overlay $30 Star Castle overlay $35 Original Lightpen with all three lightpen cartridges $160 Debuzz kit and Cap kit $40 .. I also have not pictured a never assembled Rolo's Vectrex controller .. I have the lightpen game manuals but I haven't decided to include them yet Spikes Circus and Vectrex Logo PCB reissues maybe for sale. Debris Revisited maybe for sale.
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****UPDATED October 20, 2017**** Scroll down to see photo's. Atari, Commodore 64 and Sega Master System controllers for sale. I've tried to make these a bit more budget friendly but still have a nice design with quality parts. I can do button placement on the right or the left of the joystick. PM me with special requests. The joysticks are made with IL Eurostick joysticks* with cherry micro switches. The buttons are concave Happ buttons. Cables and strain relief boot are brand new. Nyloc nuts are used to prevent loosening over time. The Atari joysticks work with both the Atari 7800 (two buttons) and the Atari 2600 (both buttons act as "fire"). * The iL Eurojoystick may be better known as the original HAPP Competition. iL (Industrias Lorenzo) is a Spanish manufacturer of high quality and extremely durable arcade parts. Originally known for manufacturing HAPP parts (such as the Happ Competition Joystick) until HAPP moved production to SUZO facilities in China, iL continued to provide high quality parts under their own label. Poorly lit video demo of joystick in use: https://youtu.be/0KPjN-yAEDI What I have to offer: Standard Edition in both Black and White. $68.95 Special Edition Controllers with Atari characters (Boxing, Q-bert, Pitfall, Etc.) $75.95 AND UP (Depends on design - see photo's/pricing below) Single button 2600 Edition $63.95 (Works with the Commodore 64 and Atari 2600) Commodore 64 Joystick $63.95 (Works with the Commodore 64 and Atari 2600) Sega Master System (Mark III) $68.95 (Works with the Sega Master System) Orders are accepted for anything you see here. If it's not in stock I can make one for you. Lead time is usually 1 1/2 to 2 weeks depending on what parts I need to order. Shipping cost depends on location. It varies from $9 up to $17 (Priority mail with tracking). If you send your zip code I can give you an estimate. Paypal Accepted. STANDARD EDITION BLACK: ($68.95) STANDARD EDITION BLACK - RIGHT SIDE JOYSTICK: ($68.95) STANDARD EDITION WHITE: ($68.95) SPECIAL EDITION BOXING: ($74.95) SPECIAL EDITION Q-BERT: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION PAC-MAN: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION DONKEY KONG: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION PITFALL: ($85.95) SPECIAL EDITION DOUBLE DRAGON: ($77.95) 2600 SINGLE BUTTON EDITION: ($63.95) COMMODORE 64 EDITION: ($63.95) SEGA MASTER SYSTEM (MARK III): ($68.95)
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Modded my Atari paddle to a new design with an aluminum volume knob and some adhesive woodgrain drawer liner. Here's how I did it:
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I just did a very quick search and didn't find a picture of this so I thought I would post it. It's from a 1984 Montgomery Ward Christmas Catalog (page 535). It may just be the picture, but this controller does seem to look a little different than the standard Proline controller from the 7800. This version appears to be designed for the Atari 2600 (most likely the same as the 7800 proline I assume). Anyway here's the full catalog page:
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A friend of mine has loaned me his custom Jaguar Arcade Stick with spinner, so I gave it a whirl. The games definitely were enhanced by the arcade-like control (played Tempest 2000, Primal Rage, and Raiden, among others). Check it out here:
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This one was based on suggestions from the community, and my own frustration with fast-moving games like Stargate that require two controllers. Two loose factory controllers are fine for the slower games, but unless you have a contraption that holds the two together, very frustrating for the fast games. Originally this was going to be for the Atari 2600 only, but a number of 7800 fans voiced a desire for one that would work with their favorite system, so why not? Especially with Robotron available on that system! The leftmost pair of buttons corresponds to the left joystick, and the rightmost pair to the right joystyick. The two toggle switches on the back shuffle the A / B buttons in each pair when used on the 7800. When used on the 2600, both buttons perform the same function. The two joysticks are digital, but have the smooth feel of analog sticks. Case is made of steel, so it's a bit heavier than the average controller, but well-suited for tabletop use. Felt feet ensure that your prized hardwood table won't get all scratched up. Too early to tell how many of these will be produced. Like what you see? Please contact me for any info not presented here. Larry
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