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RGB Blaster + Humble Bazooka shell $110 shipped to U.S. and Canada. The RGB Blaster plugs into an NES or Famicom cart slot and outputs high quality RGB video. It is a Famicom cart, so an adapter is required for NES consoles and a front loader would require modifying the console shell or leaving the top off for the RGB cable. These are pretty much unusable without a Humble Bazooka shell, which is included. It is not compatible with all PPUs and not at all with clones. Hardware mods may also affect the compatibility of an RGB Blaster. You can learn more about it here: https://krikzz.com/our-products/cartridges/rgb-blaster.html Here is footage recorded from the RGB Blaster for sale:
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My RGB SCART cable for my PS1 just arrived earlier today. I won't deny, the difference in clarity and overall quality of colors is immense. I think it is pretty understandable for us retro gamers to naturally hunt for the highest quality video output we can, or perhaps aim for an experience that accurately recaptures our childhoods. However, there is one key element that advocates for higher quality video cables almost never mention: dithering. Basically, it's that checkerboard-y pattern you see in the vast majority of PS1 games. If it's a 3D game, it will almost certainly have it; especially if the game in question has a darker color palette. The reason why the developers added dithering was to fake additional color depth that simply wasn't possible with the hardware otherwise. You know how certain games such as DOOM on PC have a very visible dark color gradient the farther the distance is from the player? That's called color banding. It's when the gradient of colors isn't smooth, and you can clearly see the color go from brighter to darker, and vice versa. A smooth gradient doesn't exhibit this, and it's one of the biggest advantages when working with a higher color depth. Again, this simply wasn't possible on the PlayStation's hardware. Some of you may be thinking "but wait a second, didn't the PS1 support 24-bit color?" and you'd be absolutely correct. A 24-bit color depth allows for 16.7 million possible different colors. However, it wasn't feasible for the hardware to calculate such a high color depth for fast 3D graphics. In reality, most games on the PS1 were actually 15-bit color in gameplay (32768 possible different colors), and 24-bit in still images (such as title screens). Sony was very aware of this technical limitation, so they included dithering as an option on the hardware to combat this — it was built-in. In turn, many developers used this to combat the otherwise extremely visible color banding that would be present. And this is where composite video comes in. Due to its nature, composite video will naturally blur two adjacent colors together. What this means is that the dithering pattern is far, far less noticeable when using a composite video cable. ESPECIALLY when paired with even the most basic consumer CRT. What you see instead is a very smooth gradient that will fool the human eye into thinking it is seeing more colors than it actually is. It's extremely clever. Of course, this has other affects as well. We all know that composite video is by no means known for it's clarity. As such, 2D elements tend to suffer, such as text. But on a CRT, it has the potential to look superb. While developers were often working with Sony PVM/BVM monitors that supported RGB, unless you lived in Europe, almost no one had access to RGB video. Sony and the developers knew this, so they took advantage of the limitations of composite video for the aforementioned reasons. It's a classic tale of genius engineers making the most out of limited hardware. To summarize: Composite video does a great job at hiding the arguably ugly dithering pattern present in almost every PS1 game It's far more accessible and easy to get a hold of for a reasonable price Many consumer CRTs support composite, making it easy to get into if you're just starting to get into retro gaming It's convenient As for me, would I switch back to composite now that I have an RGB cable? Well....
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In general since pretty much none of my TVs have component, using RGB through my Retrotink works well.
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I always wondered about the possibility of creating a DIY mod to get RGB video out of the A8. And because it already has separate chroma and luma outputs from the GTIA, it would seem that fundamentally what would be needed is a way to decode the chroma signal into a 3-bit digital output that could address 3 analog switches going to the RGB inputs of a monitor. Then do the usual resistor DAC on the luma outputs and send the resultant analog luminance signal into the common on all 3 analog switches. Have I over simplified this? I think the biggest obstacle is decoding the chroma into a digital 3-bit output. How best to do this? Here's a highly simplified Block Diagram of what I believe are the essential aspects. The sync separator might not be required if the monitor will accept CSYNC. There are some fairly inexpensive RGB to HDMI converters on the market now days that actually do a decent job of conversion for us people that live in non-RGB monitor land, and there are ways to make CRT monitors accept RGB input.
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Hi guys, I just bought two of the Sophia 2 devices that I want to install on my Atari 800XL and Atari 5200. I have a RetroTINK 5X but I need some help on finding a good way to connect my Sophia 2 via DVI to my RetroTINK 5X that would then go to my TV or HDMI monitor. The reason I bought a Sophia 2 device is because I want the best picture to come out of these Atari systems. So can someone please help me out?
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- atari 800xl
- sophia
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I'm thinking of firing up one of my old Atari computers but don't have an old monitor or TV. Are there converters out there that will convert the Atari video output to VGA? HDMI would be OK I guess, but VGA suits what I have better right now. As I recall, the Atari 800 had both composite video and RGB available. Plus a modulator to convert the composite video to TV channel 2. BTW, I have seen some boards on eBay and AliExpress that look promising, but the product descriptions are hard to follow. I'd like to be reasonably sure the gadget has a chance of working before I buy it. Regards, Nick "the SIO2PC guy"
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I'm gauging interest for two new AV adapters I'm making due out sometime in November. I'd like to have a good idea for how many to make before launching, so I'm posting here. Each product page has a simple email signup form. if you're interested, please signup! The first is a simple S-Video, Stereo Audio, Composite video adapter. This adapter will only need the AV socket and will run $25 (plus shipping). https://www.humblebazooka.com/product/jagsvc-atari-jaguar-s-video-composite-video-adapter/ The second is an All-In-One Analog adapter with RGB (9-pin socket, Genesis Model 2 style), Stereo Audio, Composite, and S-Video. This adapter will require both Jag sockets, DSP for power, but will benefit from being able to work with the Rad2X without external power. No definitive price yet but tentative at $35 (plus shipping). Those looking to use a JagNet, JagLink, JagLink II can always pick up a Jag2GEN or the S-Video adapter, since both only use the AV socket. This adapter will have its sync line brought down to Genesis Model 2 levels so that Genesis Model 2 SCART cables wired for CSYNC will work as intended. https://www.humblebazooka.com/product/jagaioa-atari-jaguar-all-in-one-analog/
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VBXE owners: do any of you have positive experiences with 15KHz RGB to HDMI converters, and if so, which models are recommended? I have a client who wants good video output over HDMI but since Sophia 2 is not available and he's interested in VBXE's feature set, he wants to go with VBXE. I can't really advise since I use SCART-enabled TVs and the only upscaler I own is a GBS-8200, which does a decent job of converting 15KHz RGB to VGA.
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More pics are in this Imgur post: https://imgur.com/gallery/j7OisBw I have a Triple Bypass modded MegaDrive VA4 Model 1. Everything works except the colour blue is missing, i did not have this problem before the recap/reflow. It has a yellow tint. I initially suspected that the RGB pins aren’t soldered on properly on the VDP Chip (315 5313A). I did break the RGB pins afterall. But still managed to solder the wire onto it by further exposing the broken legs with my craft knife. I used plenty of solder, and flux, there is no bridging and it’s not loose at all. I test the system with each pin soldered on individually. Red works (Reminds me of the Virtual Boy), Green works but not Blue. Instead i get a black screen with Blue when i test separately, even though it’s soldered on solid. Other mods include the Region Free chips, DFO accurate 60hz mod both work. The clicky reset button works, replaced the 7805 voltage regulators, i get sound. I’ve also recapped it prior to this problem using the Console5 kit. Could it be the caps? All are installed correctly. Many in the right place. Ps I did make a mistake at first by accidentally soldering in a 7812 which ended up shutting off the system and the VDP chip did get hot. I then quickly shut off the system and desoldered that 7812 that was misplaced in the 7805 packet and soldered in a 7805 and it powered on again. Voltages measured using my Astro Ai Multimeter from the VDP to GND. I put Sonic 3 in and took the game out at the white Sega Logo before measuring it. Here are the results. Red= 3.135v Green=3.255v Blue=3.438v I followed this guide for the Triple Bypass mod, more pics from the guide are below: https://www.retrorgb.com/genesis1rgbbypass.html https://console5.com/techwiki/images/f/fb/CXA1145PM.pdf There is also this guide, did not follow this since i have the Triple Bypass: https://videogameperfection.com/2018/08/28/megadrive-bypass-installation/ Is the console/VDP at fault or is it the mod such as the Triple Bypass board? And can this be fixed?
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- sega genesis
- sega md
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I'm fairly new to the ST, but I picked up 3 STs, in a lot, recently. I got a 520stfm, a 520stm, and a 520st. I didn't get any monitors, or video cables, with them, though. Given that situation, the first thing that I did was to make up a DIN-13 to composite video + audio cable. The quality of output I got from that was acceptable (but not great) at low res, and terrible at medium res. Looking to improve my output, I bought a an NEW v2.0 Atari ST DIN13 to VGA Adaptor Low-Medium/High Switchable with Audio Out and, after reading that my Extron RGB-HDMI 300a was capable of going beyond the spec of 30 kHz, I tried it out. I think that the results speak for themselves. You can see some jailbars, particularly in high res, but if I take a bit of time to adjust the phase, those should go away. These images are the defaults, with zero tuning. - Alex
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I'm looking for someone in the US who can install the RGB Tim worthington mod with component output in my light 4 switch Atari 2600 system.
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Hello I had myself a Retrotink SCART to ypbpr converter, and it worked fine. However some capture cards were having trouble with 240p YCbCr. I traded it for a Retro Tink SCART to VGA line doubler. It'll be in the mail by next week. I noticed the PlayStation 2 and GameCube have problems with interlaced video. Luckily of all the games tested, only 19 out of like 300+ games for the Xbox Prime were "interlaced only.". That's how I found out that my VGA CRT monitor doesn't do interlaced video first of all I should I assume that the Hauppauge Rocket, when just used as a video converter, only converts the physical form of the video from composite, S-Video, and component, to HDMI, but the display mode and resolution remain the same? Second does the Hauppauge Rocket do 240p via S-Video which I heard is a possibility of S-Video? And does the rocket have problems with 240p via 3 RCA ypbpr? Third. If I play my Master System, Sega Tower of Power, Sega Saturn Sega Dreamcast and Super NES model 1, which could all accept scarred without modding the system, does either the Retrotink device convert any interlaced video into progressive or is there something in the internal chips of those systems and assume that if SCART is being used that progressive video will always be outputted. In other words if a game is in interlaced mode for any of those systems, will it not work on the Retrotink? Now question about the GameCube Wii and Wii U. If the Wii U is in 720p will we games that are normally in 480i get "progressivized" (de-interlaced). If I play GameCube games on the Wii, will the Wii deinterlace all GameCube games or only run ones with a native progressive mode? I know about the operating system being in progressive mode on the Xbox Prime just press both analog sticks in and triggers down and hold it down like a second or two to switch between progressive and interlaced. I also noticed weird artifacts on my PlayStation 3D TV that when Legend of Zelda Wind Waker was in 480p, the PlayStation 3 TV had gobbledygook in places that were normally black picture, like a transparency code or something. just wondering if there's going to be any weird behaviors dealing with a VGA CRT monitor that doesn't have an interlace mode By the way, when converting HDMI to VGA, my CRT beat my PlayStation 3D TV by one frame. Guess which one I'm playing my modern games on?
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Hey All. I've been working with a well known custom PCB maker from Sudomod (Minty Pi and Gameboy Zero stuff) named Helder Silva on developing my idea of an adapter that takes the Jag's AV port and converts it to the more common Nintendo Multiout. I chose the Multiout because it carries all the audio video signals needed for composite, s-video, and even RGB all in one port. I wanted to share some footage I took last night of me playing some Jag games with an HD Retrovision component cable upscaled through an OSSC using the final version of the adapter. I recorded this footage using a $20 capture device from Amazon so it's not the highest quality and it introduced lag, which you can see me struggle with in Alien vs Predator and Cybermorph but it get's the job done! What the JAG2SNES does: Converts the Jag's AV port to the more common Multiout port. Allows you to use SNES/N64/GameCube: Composite, S-Video, RGB Scart, and HD Retrovision (what I use) cables with your Jag. What this JAG2SNES doesn't do: Upscale. You'll need a scan converter like the OSSC, Framemeister, or GBS for that. If all goes well, it should go on sale sometime today for $25 USD (plus shipping) over at Helder's website and they'll be ready to ship immediately, no waiting list and no lead time to build. They are built. I will post to the buy, sell, trade forums once it's live.
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I'm running into an odd problem that I hope someone else has seen before - I have a Sony HB-F1XDmk2 MSX2 that I'm trying to connect via RGB cable to an Extron DSC301 HD (via the 15pin D-sub input). I've done a bit of searching and believe I have the pinouts correct on both the MSX* and Extron ends. I've tested and re-tested continuity through the lines. All that said, I just can't seem to get a full picture going - I'm getting two of the three RGB colors and only the text mode (I think); the MSX boot logo screen doesn't appear, game screens don't appear. The picture is nice and crisp, there's no rolling/scrolling that I've seen mentioned from other forum posts. Also, the unit's A/V outputs work normally. The odd thing on the 2 out of 3 colors - I can swap the color lines and I'll get the blend of whatever 2 colors I hook up on the first two lines for the text, so it seems the R,G, and B are outputting from the MSX but for some reason the extron is not using/seeing/processing all three colors. I've used this d-sub input on the extron with my Apple IIgs and color/sync works. *For the 8pin DIN, I'm using the Type A pin out so 6,7,8 pins are RGB and 4,5 are the two sync lines. I also have pin 1 ground hooked up. I'm stumped - is it that I need to use a different combo of pin 3, 4, or 5 for Horizontal/Vertical Sync or is the Extron just not compatible with the MSX output? I know on paper the extron doesn't support 15kHz, but it does and works beautifully with my Apple IIgs. Most of the posts I find on this are talking about SCART connectors/wiring but I really want to make the 8 pin din to 15 pin D-Sub work if possible. Any help appreciated!
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Hey everyone! As you have heard me talk about on the show a number of times, my RGB light-sixer has been down for the count for a few months now. I've done all I can with the knowledge and skills I have, which consist of poor soldering skills that didn't help anything. Thankfully @Nathan Strum has graciously offered his help to see if he's able to diagnose the issue and get it up and running again! In the mean time @Albert has sent me his S-Video modded four switch that we used for the first time on the most recent show, which was a HUGE step up in quality of the composite Atari Jr we've been using for a while now. Thank you so much Al!! Here's the VCS all packed up nicely and ready to be shipped to Nathan, it was sent on May 22 and just arrived to Nathan today, hooray! I'll let Nathan take over from here on the incredible saga of the RGB Light-Sixer repair. Thank you so much Nathan!! - James
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Im looking for advice on this layout. Should I connect the OSSC directly to the TV or will signal quality be fine through an HDMI switch? Any glaring missteps with my current plan? N64 seems like a writeoff for now in PAL until I consider modding. Will PS2, Xbox and Wii be best served in an RGB OSSC setup or should I consider the HDMI solutions on the market ?
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Links Website Notes Composite, S-Video, and RGB output Easy install if TIA is socketed Six different color palettes Supports NTSC and PAL Premade kit available 4 Switcher Installation Guide
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- Atari 2600
- A/V
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From the album: CatPixtures
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From the album: CatPixtures
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Evening guys, I originally had a broadcast signal converter that I could plug all my 8 and 16 bit'ers into and fed nicely into the VGA port on a 25" Philips monitor but unfortunately DHL in my local country have made sure I'm never going to get it back after sending it for repair. The signal converter allowed lots of different resolutions and aspect ratios and was virtually limitless in the signals it would accept. Here in Ecuador there are a huge amount of 15-17" CRT's and LCD's and virtually nothing with S-Video inputs or that will accept happily the PAL composite video that my 800XL is knocking out. I have tried a $20 S-Video/Composite to VGA converter which gave me nice multicoloured blurred text on everything that I plugged into it (including a Raspberry Pi). So I'm looking to connect to VGA, especially as I still prefer the look of CRT's for my vintage machines. So, rather than going UAV now, I'm looking at getting a Sophia Board. I've tried reading through the Sophia threads but struggling to get a clear answer to some queries before I start hassling Simius with an order. I could do with hearing some experiences of other users findings. Firstly, the Sophia Rev.B is shown as RGB. Is this directly compatible with VGA or would it feed into one of the Arcade RGB to VGA GBS8200 converters found on Ebay? I ask about this board in particular because I'm getting one for an Amstrad CPC 6128 and could probably build a switch to shift between the tow machines. Secondly, regardless of this going VGA directly, or through an RGB converter, do I need to determine the resolution when I order the Sophia? Some of the monitors here are 1024 x768 and others 1280x1024. Are these the correct aspect ratios to be as similar as possible to old CRT TV's that the Atari's would have plugged into originally? Thirdly, if I end up having to order the DVI version, presumably there's a 1280x1024 option available, will I get black bars on the left and right of my full HD monitor to keep the aspect ratio or is it more likely to stretch to the whole screen or black borders on all sides with a tiny image in the middle? Lastly, is Simius based in Europe, or in the US, as I need to find out the best method of getting it to me without using couriers? USPS tracked service is ideal, but if it's coming from Europe then I'd need to get it shipped to the UK first to be forwarded by Royal Mail. Apologies for the long post and multiple questions. If you've any further advice or help to offer (unused Sophia Board??) please let me know, and thank you in advance.
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From the album: INTV
My custom Sears unit that I restored & modded w/ RGB and composite AV, plus a custom Inty arcade controller that I built using a Neo Geo X as a base & Grips03's PCB kit. I used a magic eraser to clean up the cream colored plastic, the backend was repainted, a paint pen was used to touch up the raised lettering and then the whole console was clear coated. A lot of time and work put into it all, but everything came out great!© TJW 2019
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- Intellivision
- Sears
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From the album: INTV
The Intellivision RGB mod, all buttoned up in a Sears SVA and looking mighty fine on my 43" Vizio D series HDTV, in glorious 1080p.© TJW 2019
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- Intellivision
- RGB
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From the album: INTV
New daughter board used for Inty RGB mod - made wiring/soldering mini DIN connector much easier.© TJW 2019
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- Intellivision
- RGB
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- Intellivision
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