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Showing results for tags 'Repair'.
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Okay let's start. What do you guys think should I even try to fix this 1050 vintage floppy drive if needed. Note: I do need power supply and SIO cable for testing first. eBay special - Atari 1050 vintage floppy drive - for parts UNTESTED
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Hello Retro Folks, My buddy gave me his old 2600 4-switch Vader edition. Was hoping to try and do a composite mod on it but it turns out it doesn't work to begin with. So my first quest was to try and get it to work normally before trying to mod it. Not knowing exactly what might be wrong I bought one of those 'refresh' capacitor kits and replaced a number of component on it. Check the first attached image to see what I replaced. As I understand it the kit includes most of the 'suspect' capacitors as well as the voltage regulator and the connector for the AC adapter plug. I replaced all of them and the 2nd and 3rd screenshots show you what I'm seeing. Doesn't seem a whole lot different compared to before I put the kit in. For the record I have a working 2600 and I used the same cart(s), AC Adapter and RF connector and game switch on both, so I think we can safely rule those parts out. Really not sure what to try next -- hoping folks might have some ideas. Should I try to reseat the 3 socketed chips? That's about where I'm at. Close to junking it at this point, but not quite ready to give up on her. Thanks all in advance! Neil
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I got three broken Atari Lynx systems as part of of lot. None of them can play games. Two of the three systems have been worked on by a previous owner. It looks like new capacitors were added to those two systems. The third system was untouched by the previous owner. The two systems that were worked on both turn on but neither has game audio or shows anything on the screen besides the backlight. The third system that was untouched doesn't turn on at all. My question is would it be possible to assemble a working unit by taking parts and moving them between units? I read somewhere online that I would only need to replace the switching power mosfet chip for the system to turn on. Maybe all of them have bad chips but hopefully that isn't the case. Also I cleaned the ribbon cables, pin connectors, and everything else thoroughly. So cleaning won't solve anything. It won't let me embed the images from imgur. Here is the link: https://imgur.com/a/jdfRUrX Any help with this would be appreciated
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Hey all, I've had a Vectrex for years found locally, and the other day I turned it on to see the screen turn on for a flash of the Vectrex boot up logo, and then nothing/no sound, not even any of the trademark. Yet if I press the reset button while it's in this state, it will start up the cartridge/Minestorm game with sound/display, but with missing graphics (Lines are shifted where they arent supposed to be/unplayable). Since the display seems to "work" when it soft resets and does draw lines, does this sound like I need to replace the caps on the board? Or is there something else I can look at? Thanks for any help in advance
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I came across a heavy sixer this weekend with a damaged ribbon cable and a broken connector on the switch board. My question is, can I desolder a cable and connector from a light sixer and use it on the heavy? Has anyone done this before? Any help is appreciated.
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Hello, good folks with AtariAge! Great forum. Was given a Telstar Alpha; hooked up to a TV using a 75ohm->RCA vid in adaptor. See the game, but it is in recycle/auto mode. None of the controllers do anything. Any advice? Many thanks. HelLenz
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Hello everyone. I'm writing this from Japan. The 800XL I bought from the US on ebay was delivered today. I did a self-check and everything was fine, but then I went to the bathroom and when I came back, the screen was completely black. When I turned the power back on, this screen appeared. https://twitter.com/kurosawa6502/status/1442422599942688775 I don't have any repair skills, so I cleaned the base with IPA. Of course, the situation did not change. I don't have the skills to repair it, so I would like to hire a professional to do the repair, and I would like to know if you have any recommendations. It's depressing to send something back to the US that arrived today from the US. Kurosawa
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More pics are in this Imgur post: https://imgur.com/gallery/j7OisBw I have a Triple Bypass modded MegaDrive VA4 Model 1. Everything works except the colour blue is missing, i did not have this problem before the recap/reflow. It has a yellow tint. I initially suspected that the RGB pins aren’t soldered on properly on the VDP Chip (315 5313A). I did break the RGB pins afterall. But still managed to solder the wire onto it by further exposing the broken legs with my craft knife. I used plenty of solder, and flux, there is no bridging and it’s not loose at all. I test the system with each pin soldered on individually. Red works (Reminds me of the Virtual Boy), Green works but not Blue. Instead i get a black screen with Blue when i test separately, even though it’s soldered on solid. Other mods include the Region Free chips, DFO accurate 60hz mod both work. The clicky reset button works, replaced the 7805 voltage regulators, i get sound. I’ve also recapped it prior to this problem using the Console5 kit. Could it be the caps? All are installed correctly. Many in the right place. Ps I did make a mistake at first by accidentally soldering in a 7812 which ended up shutting off the system and the VDP chip did get hot. I then quickly shut off the system and desoldered that 7812 that was misplaced in the 7805 packet and soldered in a 7805 and it powered on again. Voltages measured using my Astro Ai Multimeter from the VDP to GND. I put Sonic 3 in and took the game out at the white Sega Logo before measuring it. Here are the results. Red= 3.135v Green=3.255v Blue=3.438v I followed this guide for the Triple Bypass mod, more pics from the guide are below: https://www.retrorgb.com/genesis1rgbbypass.html https://console5.com/techwiki/images/f/fb/CXA1145PM.pdf There is also this guide, did not follow this since i have the Triple Bypass: https://videogameperfection.com/2018/08/28/megadrive-bypass-installation/ Is the console/VDP at fault or is it the mod such as the Triple Bypass board? And can this be fixed?
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One of my Genesis game cases had a partially detached cover sleeve that I had taped to hold it in place. I hated this solution. It was one of those things that just nagged at me since it was my own fault that the sleeve had detached to begin with. I could have purchased a new case but wanted to see if there was any way to simply reattach the cover sleeve. I tried super glue but the glue wouldn't even set. So, last night I took a toothpick and applied a very small bead of "Shoe Goo" adhesive to the case then firmly pressed the sleeve down. The repair is barely noticeable and I'm not sure how long it will last, but as of now it seems to have worked. Just wanted to pass this along to everyone.
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Hello. I recently obtained an Atari 400 labelled as "working". Upon setting everything up, it will only display a green screen. Every time I turn it on, it only displays a green screen. Where should I go from here? What are the most likely causes that I should investigate? Some more info I forgot to include: 1. A green screen is displayed 100% of the time so far. Never a black screen / anything else like some other posts I have seen. 2. I have tried inserting various cartridges, however something is wrong as carts do not click in all the way on this machine (tested and work fine on my other 400). So, I am not sure how to test other functions of the machine using carts until I can figure out this problem. 3. I have used the power supply with another Atari 400 which works fine.
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Hey everyone! As you have heard me talk about on the show a number of times, my RGB light-sixer has been down for the count for a few months now. I've done all I can with the knowledge and skills I have, which consist of poor soldering skills that didn't help anything. Thankfully @Nathan Strum has graciously offered his help to see if he's able to diagnose the issue and get it up and running again! In the mean time @Albert has sent me his S-Video modded four switch that we used for the first time on the most recent show, which was a HUGE step up in quality of the composite Atari Jr we've been using for a while now. Thank you so much Al!! Here's the VCS all packed up nicely and ready to be shipped to Nathan, it was sent on May 22 and just arrived to Nathan today, hooray! I'll let Nathan take over from here on the incredible saga of the RGB Light-Sixer repair. Thank you so much Nathan!! - James
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Ok guys, I’m stuck. I’m only 16 so I don’t reeeeeeeally know what I’m doing, but I need your help! Atariage, I’ve been scammed!! DUN DUN DUUUUUUUUN!! I bought a “working” atari 400 off of OfferUp whose only problem was that it had a cut video cable (Which I replaced with one I pulled from a broken 2600) and no PSU (which I had bought before the system arrived). I, being the idiot I am, DIDN’T test the system before starting my cleaning/retrobrite process (pictures below ;) ). After that week of school I threw the system back together aaaaaaaand... black screen... :( I’ve tried Everything I can think of, I reseated all the chips on the whole computer (cleaning the pins and the sockets as I did), cleaned the the ram and cpu board connectors, started it up with a star raiders cartridge, made sure everything was grounded properly, deoxidized the power jack, cleaned the channel selector, tried multiple tv’s (both new and old), and STILL I get that black screen... WHAT SHOULD I DO?! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Repairing an Arcadia 2001 Controller I had problems with a fire button of the left Arcadia 2001 controller, not firing anymore. The Arcadia-controllers are very simple and were cheaply made. Even working, they are not great controllers. In the end nothing will help, but making complete new controllers of quality components, with real switches. I might do that sometime, if there should be some games I really like and want to play decently. Not sure yet. But for the beginning a repair should be enough. Simultaneously I'm using the opportunity to preserve that technology by uploading a few pictures. That's my left controller: Inside everything is glued together. By pulling carefully the parts can be separated. The mylar is quite corroded and a bit dirty: Showing the color scheme the plug: The wiring of the mylar itself, in case somebody wants to make a reproduction (or wonders, why pushing the "2"-key, also triggers the gun). Both red fire buttons are wired in parallel. They are just simple buttons, no rocker switches, no up and down. It is a 5x5 millimeters grid in the background. I cleaned the corrosion and without heavy rubbing, not only oxidation went off, but also the printed conducting traces. They really are not bound firmly with the plastic carrier. Look at the red circle. I cleaned away part of button and wire, by using alcohol, an ear pad and too much pressure and rubbing. Cleaning must be done extremely careful: For the first time I tried to repair with conducting silver, since soldering is impossible. I made a mask of transparent tape for painting the new trace. I learnt, painting one time is not enough: To lower electric resistance, the trace must be thicker. I painted three times. Narrow traces are bad, too. They have to be wide. Contact with the original traces must overlap as far as possible to make good contact. Left picture: painting a few times. Right picture: pulling off the tape. I also re-painted the conductive pad of the fire-button later on. I took no photo. Before reassembling I protected the new traces with transparent tape, since the silver color can't get inside the mylar's surface and gets scratched off quite easily. Reassembled the controller, checked it, working again! I can't predict, how long the new pad of the button will last, of course. Hopefully some time...
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A long, LONG, time ago, on a computer, now dead, and another, and another, and 2 laptops, and finally on a USB drive, also now dead, I put together an instructional guide to taking apart a 410 drive, with emphasis on simplicity, and allowing for a couple improvements and repairs. It has been months since then, but the effort to put the guide out never died, and now today, I can release the guide in a photographic step-by-step format, in numerical order, with sudo-progressive sections, featuring a new solution to drive mechanism stuttering, a comparison of an old, used model, and a new-in-box, old-stock model drive, an electronics repair and problem-analysis section with documentation, and a more condensed, re-assembly guide. I would like to do a complete analysis of the head alignment procedure, and electronics replacement\upgrade\repair with my new oscilloscope, as described in the official documentation, which is included in this guide, and I had intended on making a version of this guide as a video, so I will combine them, but free-time is short right now, so it will have to wait. IT SHOULD BE NOTED THAT NEW BELTS WORK BETTER THAN OLD ONES, SO IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT, YOU SHOULD GET THEM HERE: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260645-atari-cassette-belts-now-available-1010-410-xc12/ You will also note that the older model drive in this guide is using a few elastics in place of belts, this is not a permanent solution, and should only be used in a pinch, or in a testing situation where the belts would be subject to considerable use, for the sake of your precious belts! I hope it helps at least 1 person, then my effort is worth it. You will need 7-Zip, or another archiving program to extract the files. There are no programs or viruses in these archives, only pictures, text, and pdf. I take no responsibility for what you do, or fail to do, with this guide. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! And enjoy! http://www.4shared.com/archive/LlNW5P2uca/Final_Cut.html http://www.4shared.com/archive/UonUWLLsei/re-assembly.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/dzd8ks7j7o38boe/Final_Cut.7z http://www.mediafire.com/file/wpjqbzpa34qlj8x/re-assembly.7z
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This is a bit of a followup to a post I already made about a power supply I was working on. Anyway I was able to get the adam to run by just running my own wires to the db9 connector instead of using a serial cable. I now have the problem that the thing only runs if I hold down one of the reset switches and even then the picture is noisy, and the channel 3/4 switch seems to do nothing. If anyone knows what's going on here let me know please. I want my desk space back
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So im attempting to make a psu for my adam. I bought one that somoneone on YouTube recommended and followed a pinnout I found. When I tried it I got a black screen with some static. Checked the voltages at the supply while plugged in to the adam and they seem normal. Checked the voltage at the end of the cable and they were the same. Checked the voltages on the other side of the connector inside of the adam and they were low (like 10v, 1.7v, -6v) not sure what's up if the connector is bad, checked a few of the pins on it and they didn't have high resistance. I don't know if this is normal or not or even if the computer works, so any help is appreciated.
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Hi all, I recently bought an 800XL with some issues. When the system is powered on, it immediately boots to the Memory Test. Both ROMs fail the test, and the RAM test only completes two or three blocks before it fails with the screen attached. The keyboard is unresponsive and I need to power cycle the machine to reboot. I'm new to Atari 8-bits but I am confused how the ROMs fail the test yet the machine boots to the Memory Test screen. I would assume based on my limited reading reseating the socketed chips (very few on this particular machine), testing voltages, and ordering up new RAM and RAM sockets would be where to start on getting this thing running again. Am I missing anything else?
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Does anyone know where I'm going wrong with improving my NES? I've owned it since new but it's been in storage for 15 years until recently. Some of the games worked but intermittently. The first thing I did was cut the pin to the NES10 chip which worked. Then I manually bent the pins on the cartridge connector for a tighter grip and sprayed some WD40 branded electrical contact cleaner on the cartridges. This helped a bit. Then I removed the 72 pin connector and boiled it as recommended elsewhere, and cleaned the motherboard connector with a fibre pen, then wiped it with nail varnish remover and cotton buds. Since then it hasn't loaded a single game. Just a grey screen. I bought a new 72 pin connector, and cleaned every cartridge with the nail varnish remover and cotton buds, but still no joy. I'm wondering if I've left deposits on the motherboard or cartridge connectors with the fluids I'm using? The WD40 contact cleaner does say it's non-conductive, but that's why I used the nail varnish remover to clean afterwards. I have alcohol cleaner as well but I haven't used that yet. Considering flowing some solder onto the motherboard pins, and then running desolder braid over it to keep the solder area small and flat. Any other ideas? -
Hi, after some time of neglect I started my Atari 800 XL again after Christmas. My 1050 drive did not make the familiar sound when turned on. First I thought it was the sensor, but then I found out that the stepper motor driving the head does not move anymore. When trying to turn it nothing happens, it is just stuck. Did anybody recover from this? I see two options. I could try to get some penetrating oil inside of the stepper motor or use some brute force. Or a combination of both. I have plenty of time to wait for the oil to declamp whatever is in there. It can't get more broken. Does anybody know of a replacement motor? I just found a replacement for the main motor on the net so far. Or I could buy a broken 1050 where the mechanics are okay and the electronic died. Any helpful advise would be appreciated as I am a total hardware noob. Thank you Steve
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Well there it is. I've used it to replace the broken one in my controller. STL's attached. No Warranty! coleco controller thing.zip- 10 replies
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Greetings from Australia. I'm finally having a go at repairing my CC40. It had battery leakage damage which I've repaired - scrubbed the contacts clean and soldered in new wires. There was some damage on the ground plane too - it had gotten under the conformal coating too so I removed the coating and cleaned the blue residue off. I also took the opportunity to completely disassemble and clean the case and keys. Otherwise, I can't see any obvious damage. However it won't power on. Using either batteries or my 6VDC bench supply I can only get half the screen whilst I hold the power button down. Letting go of the button switches off again. Will start poking around but thought I'd check here in case any of the far more experienced people knew where I should zero in on (i've got an oscilloscope, logic analyser, etc.). Thanks, Brett.
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So I ran across something interesting last night. I have a 2 port 5200 that never worked for the last 5 years. I got it off ebay and ran through everything to get it to work but all I got was a green screen no matter what chips I replaced or what I cleaned. All I concluded was some of the ram chips get hotter than others but besides that I moved on and bought a working 4 port. Yesterday I found a VCS adapter in the wild for $20 and it ended up being a stock 2 port compatible only version, so just for the laughs I stuck it in my dead 2 port and then BAM! It's working... The 2 port still does not play regular 5200 games, or do anything else but for some reason it works with the VCS adapter. This has inspired me to join this forum and see what you guys have to say about it, in what circumstance will a 2 port work with the VCS adapter but nothing else? My idea is the 2 port is partially dead but works enough to pass through the VCS's signal to my TV but I don't know what exactly is broken about it. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks!
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I traded one of my working 2600 for untested 5200 with 2 ports. I expected 5200 to be non working and I was right. It doesn't work. I just have black screen with any game I tryed. Power adapter is working and I hawe LED light ON. I downloaded schematics and noticed that there is two 7805 power regulators. Checked one in VR1 location and no power in or out. Checked other one in VR2 and my power out is 5.10 VDC. I don't know is that normal or should I have closer to 5 VDC? Anyway I am not sure for first 7805 in VR1, should I have power in there or that one receive power latter when some switch send it throug? I decided also to check power in all chips under metal shielding and found out that I don't have power in A7, A14, A15, A16, A17, A18, A19, A20, A21, A22, A23, A24 and A25 (chips are marked in red on photo). I am not sure what to do next. I did fix some 2600s, but 5200 is much more complex console. Anyone who can help?
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Hello, I just bought two retro Sega handheld consoles recently but I just realised that both of their screen are burnt as faulty. So I am look for an experienced repair for new LCD screens to replace them. I will happy to pay for LCD screens from websites like Ebay, Amazon, etc. I will pay you for your service to fix them. I will happy to drop them in Sydney metro but I don't mind to post them in only Australia as well. They are Sega Nomad Genesis and Sega Game Gear consoles. See pictures of them attached.
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I have a vader model, I've replaced the RIOT chip, the 4.7uf caps, the 2200uf cap, and the voltage regulator. Once I got it running again I noticed the video was fuzzy. I decided to do an A/V mod and picked up this kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-2600-7800-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY/303092047733?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Side note: as others have mentioned in other forums about the a/v mod the video was dark, after removing one of the resistors from the mod circuit that solved that issue. The picture, however, is still fuzzy. I've uploaded a video showing what I mean: https://youtu.be/UXzVRivc258 Not sure where to look next, any suggestions? I have tried multiple composite cables and televisions as well so I'm pretty sure it's an issue on the board itself.
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