Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'atari'.
-
There is a small hole in the rear of the case other than that it is perfect. The mem upgrade makes it a new machine. Comes with power supply. $100 obo. Thanks, 400_mem.mp4
-
- 1
-
-
- atari 400
- atari 400/800
- (and 2 more)
-
Hi AtariAgers, MC to all.... I am new here and been collect over 1170+ files total 9.95 mb. Directories Listing: 08/20/2020 12:51 AM <DIR> Flashback Series 12/25/2020 05:03 AM <DIR> Hacks (hidden directory called Black background hacks) 12/25/2020 05:46 AM <DIR> Homebrews 12/25/2020 05:18 AM <DIR> Non-Original Games 11/26/2020 03:35 AM <DIR> Original Games 08/30/2020 07:58 PM <DIR> Original Games With Menus 06/10/2020 01:16 AM <DIR> Previews 12/07/2020 02:40 PM <DIR> Prototypes 06/10/2020 01:16 AM <DIR> SECAM Video Games 12/12/2020 05:59 PM <DIR> WIPs I been lurking around here since 2011, never join here until now... hehehehe...
-
Hello there! (Insert Obi wan meme here): I bought an Atari 800 XL for my older brother. Through the Atari800win PLUS emulator I created a program that is basically Jingle Bells with a words of greetings, this done in BASIC. I saved my program as TXT thanks to this thread:https://atariage.com/forums/topic/196715-saving-basic-programs-from-emulators/?do=findComment&comment=2503145 But now, what I want is to be able to load the program through a WAV that I am going to host on YouTube to make it run on the Atari. I have the audio jack cassette convert. I tried to transform the TXT with MAGOTRANS but when loading the program from my mobile device as WAV, it throws an exclamation mark on the blue loading screen. I think that the convertion is wrong. I require your help, this is a gift for my brother and Christmas is near. So, ¿How I can load a txt program to my Atari from a WAV audio? Regards.
-
Hello, I have a used PAT 9000 that I am ready to sell. I figured I would put it here first before ebay or Craigslist. It was tested and working back in the late 1990s (by Dunis in Portland, OR), but has sat unused for years. It powers up, but I have no way to test it. The XY monitor was tested back then and was not working - diagnosed as a flyback issue. It comes with a mess of plugs, the PAT 9000 manual, some assorted game manuals, and at least 2 Ampliphone deflection boards - untested, condition unknown. Everything is being sold AS-IS. DM me with your best offer. Sorry, I can't ship this - way too heavy! I live in the San Jose, CA area. Own a unique piece of Atari history!! https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/1-tqG-7dPjIVDedUjWnIIDimyQfmEnBJM
-
Atari 400 with power supply, works great 50$ Plus shipping (OBO). 20201216_171901.mp4
- 1 reply
-
- 1
-
-
- atari
- atari 400/800
- (and 3 more)
-
This is just a quick blog of my experience of building an S-Drive Max and not a step by step, like I usually do, because there are just so many other good resources for building the device. First, this project is a fairly easy, that is if you read several of the 'how to' websites and watch a couple of videos before working on it. (I listed some resources below). You see, most of the websites are fairly good, it's just that they tend to leave out bits a pieces in their descriptions so a step might be missed. Second, price was fairly cheap. Mine cost only about $25.00, with a caveat; I already had an old SIO cable, I didn't plan to build or purchase a case and mine does not have the fix to allow other devices on the SIO chain. After you add all these things isn't much cheaper than one pre-built. But I didn't want one built, I wanted the experience of building it myself. Also, this is just a temporary till I get the money for a Fujinet. Now here some little problems I ran into. Nothing earth shattering, just annoying. 1.) Don't assume that the LCD screen with the same name as the one you need is the correct screen. I first purchased the wrong screen that had the right name but wrong pin lay out. check closely before you buy. 2.) I couldn't get Xloader to work on my laptop because I had previously installed a USB-comport adapter. Even after I removed the drivers for the comport adapter from my laptop Xloader still couldn't create a port. I had to switch to my desktop to get Xloader to create a port. 3.) Speaking of my desktop the Arduino creates a virtual comport and I forgot that I already had a real comport on my desktop and picked the real com1 instead of Adruino virtual com4. I restarted the Xloader with com4 and at that point everything went well. 4.) Double check your solder points. My +5 solder looked OK but caused the S-Drive to reboot over and over when moved. Re-soldered the point and everything went OK. that's it. Happy hobbying. HLO fuzzy picture of S-Drive Max Here are some resources: https://atariwiki.org/wiki/Wiki.jsp?page=SDrive-MAX https://atari8bit.net/tutorials/de-re-sdrive-max/#using https://www.bpharoah.co.uk/atari-sdrive-max/ And a YOUTUBE video:
-
Looking for an Atari 7800 with VGA, DVI or SCART output on the system. No S-Video, HDMI or AV. Already have an AV and HDMI system with these outputs.
-
Why do 16-bit light guns look so ridiculous? SNES Super Scope: Sega Menacer: Compared to these 8-bit offerings: Famicom Revolver: NES Gray Zapper: NES Orange Zapper: SMS Light Phaser: Atari XG-1: I mean, I can understand that in the 90s, video game and toy makers were pressured to make guns look unrealistic as possible, but come on, the Super Scope and Menacer just look absolutely ridiculous. Even later gen systems like the PS1 Namco Guncon look normal in comparison. What's worse, with all the modular detachable pieces that can get lost over the years, it's nearly impossible to find one complete.- 25 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- super scope
- menacer
- (and 8 more)
-
I am deciding to sell my collection(s). I have a couple of large collections that I want to sell. ( most of the Atari library, half of the Nintendo library, several other systems and games (sega genesis, super Nintendo, odyssey2, intellivision, action max, many standalone pong systems CIB, etc, etc.) ) looking to see if anyone would be interested in buying one of more of these collections, or is anyone has any information on the best place to sell these collections. thank you for all your help.
-
Cyberball 2072 by Atari from 1989 on the Midway Arcade Classics 2 collection for PS2. I like how there are so many plays but just 1 action button, that's classic Atari but this was a later arcade game. Great music and gameplay in this one.
-
**GONE** **All six games have gone to a new home.** Hi all, Looking to trade the carts below for some loose Sega Genesis Carts. Dungeons of Daggorath Mega Bug Androne Yar's Revenge Zaxxon Galaxian Some loose carts that I'd be interested in are: Space Harrier 2 Castle of Illusion Forgotten Worlds Gain Ground Golden Axe II Ghouls n Ghosts Mystic Defender Thunder Force II Thunder Force III Sub-Terrania Aladdin Lion King Target Earth Mean Bean Machine Puyo Puyo I'd be happy to hear what other games you might have too. Money can be added to balance things out if need be. I'm new so I'm OK to ship first if you're an established member. Thanks! -
Colecovision lot: $1250 Atari lot: $750 Price on bundled lot: $1600 Looking to sell a collection of CIB Atari and Colecovision games/accessories. There are about 70 games in varying conditions. We’re moving in a few weeks and are looking to downsize a bit. I’m hoping to move this as a lot and am willing to consider offers Here is a link to all the pictures: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0PGrq0zwG4fPIc Here is a link to a Google sheets document with a list of games and prices based on Pricecharting: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oTgS9Owj6MN7RDZTpwCeT4Xn6xDjvWY6IIaObJbzNsg/edit
-
Hello guys! I need your help Atari 800, ATARI 800XL/600XL owners! If you guys own a caliber I urgently need to know which size in millimeters (or even better in keycaps unit 1U) the following keys: ATARI 800: - CONTROL key (to my measurements using pictures found on internet) 1.5U - LSHIFT key 1.75U as well as the RSHIFT - FUNCTION KEYS (Select, Start...) 1.5U - CLR SET TAB key 1.5U - RETURN key 1.5U ATARI 800XL - CONTROL key 2.0U - LSHIFT key 2.25U - RSHIFT key 2.0U - CAPS LOWR key 1.25U - RETURN key 1.75U - ESC key 1.25U - FUNCTION KEYS are spaced as 1U keysize. The only correct keyboard I can check is the Atari 130XE style... In attachment the PDF layouts of those keycaps (used by MaxKeyboard) and the keysize in keycap units. Please help me, Gianluca atari-800-xl-style-maxkeyboard.pdf atari-xe-style-maxkeyboard.pdf
-
Here are 4 2600 controller that I built and have up for sale at the moment. The black and white one and also the red/black/white one are 70$ shipped in the cont. USA. They are ready to rock with 10’ cables, plexiglass covers,siemitsu ps14g pushbuttons, and (black one) has Sanwa joystick, red has a zippyy stick. The white and black one and the green one are 60$ shipped USA. They have 6’cables. Also taking orders for custom builds right now as well if any of y’all happen to be interested in a custom stick. I’m not set up to build for 5200, Jaguar, or intellivision, but those several consoles aside, I can build out for most any retro consoles. Thanks for taking the time to check them out. Jeff Boss Level Controls
-
Hi, I just did a cap kit on jr. and the only thing that ain't working is the led. It wasn't working before either. I put a 12 volt from china on there and it ain't lighting up. I tested the led with a diode function on the tester and it read .81. I took a resistance test and I got OL. It's in reverse? Lol? Thanks.
-
My Atari 2600 Light Sixer Goes B&W When Tapped or slightly moved. Sometimes, if I toggle the B&W/Color switch, the color comes, back. Other times it doesn't. Sometimes will go to color if I toggle the switch from color to B&W, indicating that it seems to be more something loose/failing on the PCB rather than the toggle switches themselves. Any suggestions at what I should be looking at first? Thank you.
- 4 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- atari
- atari 2600
- (and 2 more)
-
Lately I have been finding new power supplies for XL and XEs on eBay that looked a lot like a 5 volt power supply with just a new 7 pin head. As anyone who has ever had an Atari XL knows the power supplies for the XL weren't all that reliable and even though the power supply I have for my 600XL was working I thought I would build another on using current technology like the ones I have been seeing on eBay and make the old one a spare. SO that is what I did and this is how I did it. Legal: I am not a professional but have had years of experience with computers. Still, use these instructions at your own peril. I assume no responsibility. Note: use this information only if you know what you are doing. Get the polarity wrong and you could BLOW YOUR COMPUTER. So always, check, check and check. The power supply plug on the XL line attaches by a 7 pin DIN plug. looking down at the plug the left 3 pins are negative and on the right 3 pins are positive. the bottom pin is nul and not connected to anything. But, on my 600XL, only 1 pin on each side need power. So the 2nd pin from top on left got negative and the 2nd from the top right got positive. All the other pins don't need to be powered even though the Atari power supply does power them. (I assume the 800XL is the same but since I have not tested one test, test, test. ) 7 pin DINS are hard to find and expensive. So, since only 1 pin on each side needs power I used a 5 pin DIN which is easier to find and cheaper and it fits. NOTE: It was pointed out that the monitor port ALSO uses a 5 pin on the 800XL which I had forgot about since the US 600XL only has a RF connector. IF you use a 5 PIN for power be sure NOT to plug the power into the monitor port by mistake. Bad things will happen if you do, very bad. Here are the specs for my power supply OUT is 5 volt, 2 amp. The Atari power supply was 1.5 amp so I wouldn't go any lower than that. The Actual 600XL draws 800mA but you might need the extra amps for SIO port devices (such as Fuqinet) that draw their power from the computer. Oh, and if you are wondering where the power supply came from it was an old power supply for a powered USB hub. Using an old USB powered hub I knew the power was steady and filtered. Using just an old phone charger might not work as well as it could introduce interference or power fluctuations. So check it out before you commit. Here is what the plug end looks like. Pin 2nd from top left is the negative, pin 2nd from top right is the positive. all other pins are un-powered. Here is the finished item. As I said before, test, test, test and double check yourself before you attach it to the Atari. If the polarity is wrong it could brick your computer. After I attached the power supply I ran a stress test of a little program and then the builtin Atari check program in a loop for quite a while. It held up fine.
-
- 1
-
-
- atari
- power suppy
- (and 1 more)
-
OK, I tested Google Group Meeting with some folks and I'm looking to use it for our local Maker's and Electronics meetings here in Central Tx (if you are in the area DM me for details to join). the nice thing about Google Meeting is it's FREE for extended hours for lots of people. Zoom maxs out at 40 mins. on it's free (yes, I'm cheap). ANYWAY, how would an Atariage MONTHLY Atari Google meeting be with everyone? Say it starts about 11am on a Saturday so Europeans and Americans can both attend (sorry to any Australians). What Saturday would be good to not conflict with all the other meetings that you all might be attending? Also, does everyone want to limit it to just the Atari 8-bit or open it up to all Atari? Plus, any other thoughts about such a meeting you might have. Comment below. thx, HLO -
I just added US Games' "Name This Game" to my collection and it has me a bit puzzled. History First off history. Somebody came up with the idea for this game in 1982 and tried to offer it to Parker Bros. who had the video game rights for the 1975 film "Jaws". They lost the license and eventually it was programmed by somebody else and it got picked up by US Games. Without knowing what the game is, that "Jaws" bit is a little strange isn't it? Yeah, so the premise of the game itself is you are a diver who is defending a treasure from a giant octopus and a shark. That's really it. Over and over and over again. I'll be the first to admit, I'm not really sure how different the original idea was from what was created, but if it wasn't that different...how, exactly, is this a "Jaws" game? The main villain is the octopus. The thing is humongous. Takes up damn near the whole screen. So why the name? Why do we have a game about shooting an octopus and a shark to defend a treasure given the bizarre moniker of "Name This Game"? Well, we don't. It's actually called "Name This Game and Win $10,000". The Contest US Games' could not come up with a suitable title for this thing. Not really sure why, but according to Digital Press is apparently it had something to do with not being able to use the phrase "The Deep". I'm going to guess this was to not get into copyright issues over the name of the 1977 film "The Deep". If I may side bar for just a second, why not just go get the video game license for that then? Honestly. Why not? They already did that for the "Towering Inferno" and that did...ok I guess? I'm just saying the idea must have been floating around. Anyway...moving off the sidebar, the marketing department then had this brilliant idea of holding a contest to name this thing. The winner would get, all together now, $10,000 dollars! If anyone is curious, that would be roughly $27,000 today. That is a pretty significant chunk of change for a lesser known video game publisher to be throwing around. Luckily they had all that Quaker Oats money to throw around since they were owned by them. Yeah, that cereal company with the man in the hat...it was a weird time to be in video games is my point. So yeah, all you had to do was send in your form with your address and your title and send it in...as long as it adhered to the content guidelines. YOU BETTER NOT USE THE WORDS 'THE' OR 'DEEP' JOHNNY! All of this can be seen here: http://www.atarimania.com/game-atari-2600-vcs-name-this-game_7637.html The Game With No Name So we have this great contest attached to a mediocre game, not a bad game mind you, but decent. What could possibly go wrong? Well, how about an industry ending crash. Yeah, probably not the thing you want to have happen when you just released a game with a 10,000 dollar prize attached to it. This game came out in 1982 and the contest was supposed to be held at the end of April in 1983. This was the year (1983) when the entire video game industry was brought to its knees in an event called "The Video Game Crash of 1983" and a TON of companies were shuttered as a result. US Games was one of those. I'm guessing this probably had something to do with the fact that Quaker Oats wasn't all that happy that their video game subsidiary was losing money. Don't know that for sure, but that would be my guess. At this point I'd like to say that the contest was held, and little Tammy Jenkins from Germfask, MI won the $10,000 with her title "Miss Jenkins Party With the Shark and Octopus" which she used to go to college and made her family very proud. But I can't say that. No. I can't it because before the contest could be held US Games bit the dust and left "Name This Game" without a real name. Aftermath So what happened? Well, nothing. Not really anyway. Apparently the game was release in Europe as "Octopus" in 1983 after the release of the US version. Digital Press did hold a contest in 1994 (without the $10,000 prize I would assume) and the winning title was "Going Under" which not only described the game, but US Games as well. Way to rub it in. You can read more here:http://www.digitpress.com/video-game-guide/?mode=GameInfo&gameid=24144 But yeah, that really is all that happened as far as I can tell. Its a story of yet ANOTHER highly ambitious contest (Swordquest anyone?) that couldn't be completed because the video game bubble burst and crushed everybody's hopes and dreams. Well, that was sad, but this isn't over yet. My Last Question In my reading about this game, I couldn't seem to find what the final outcome of this contest was going to be for the company itself. In those rules up there it had to be a name that could actually be used as far as copyright goes. To me that says they would have actually named the game with the winning entry. My question is, would US Games have actually paid the expense and taken the time to design new manuals and labels to reflect this name change? I feel like they would have had to. What would the point have been otherwise? Just to sell more copies of a mediocre, generic game with a shark and an octopus? Actually yeah. It was probably that.
-
I've recently discovered these posters were a thing when I bought six of them on eBay and did research to discover there are a total of 10 of them, meaning I now really want the last four. I'm looking to buy the ones for Warlords, Centipede, Missile Command, and Star Raiders. I'd like them to to be in like new condition, preferred if tags still attached. Heres photos of the ones I have already and how I'm framing them-
-
Announcing the Australian Lynx Club Shirts! The artwork has been totally recreated by Grazi, she did an amazing job again. This is just a pre-order, so please repond with how many shirts you want and what size (small, medium, large, XL, or XXL). I will ask for money after I have shirts in hand and ready to ship. Shirts will be $17 each and shipping is gonna be $9 priority(USA). Australian Lynx Club Shirt Orders so far: Small: Medium: Large: TrekMD x2, nyandeyanen XL: Machine, sramirez2008, retrogmr x2, Rick Dangerous, joeatari1 XXL: darriba, thefred Also: In case you missed the other lynx shirt we did, I have a few left.
-
Hello everyone! First of all let me introduce a new, small company, called "Retro Venture". Our main goals are new accessories & new games for the whole range of Atari computers and consoles - made with love by the community for the community! Here is our first video spot: We bring back the good memories of the 80s & 90s! We are pleased to present you our first official product! This is the anti-dust cover designed for the Atari Jaguar console. Not only is it very aesthetic (looks like glass) it is also resistant to cracks, fractures and UV radiation. The Jaguar has never looked so beautiful! The biggest problem associated with the external port for the cartridge goes down in history. The cover also has port cutouts for JoyPads, as well as I/O on the back of the console. Thanks to this, there is no need for disconnecting the console, and the Jaguar itself looks EXTREMELY attractive! In addition, we took care with the design of the box that protects the lid from eventual damage, it is simply impossible. For this reason, the box can also serve as an additional Jaguar packaging (the console fits easily together with the cover - of course without the power supply). There's also a small surprise inside the box with every order! LONG LIVE THE JAGUAR! Price: 35 euro We would like to inform everyone interested that shipping abroad is 14 euros. Please add this amount to the price of the product you want. Make a transfer to the following PayPal account: info@retroventure.eu If possible please use the friends and family payment method (it'll save paying commission, that's friendly request, not mandatory). Please send your home address information and the item(s) you are purchasing as a message in the same PayPal transaction. Thanks for your interest. Discounts are available on bulk or multiple orders, email for a price. OFFICIAL RETRO VENTURE PROFILE - CLICK ME !
-
An essay on how the colonial influences on David Crane’s “Pitfall!” affected it and the platformers that followed. https://rjb.report/pitfalls-of-colonization image is licensed under CC 2.0
-
The Atari Lynx 1-UP from: starforcepi.wordpress.com What’s the greatest handheld of the 1980s and 1990s? Why, the 16-bit arcade juggernaut named Atari Lynx, of course! I was a kid when the original Lynx 1 came out for us here in the old country in 1990, and was blown away. The Game Boy was a monochrome moron in comparison, and the Game Gear was all about converting Mega Drive and Master System games to pocket version – the Lynx, with its hardware-driven zooming and distortion of sprites, was going for Arcade experiences. BOOYA! Sadly, as with everthing Atari, this too turned to dust. BUT, fast-forward to 2018 and look at the love for this loveable giant! So much so, that McWill, a name you must’ve heard of by now, released one of the most impressive upgrades for a system I’ve ever seen – LCD replacement for the waning washed-out Lynx screen, with VGA output. The VGA output was a great addition, but the way I’ve seen people utilize it online seemed rather silly to me; you would have to use the Lynx as the controller when playing on the VGA. No sir, I don’t like it. So I decided to use the spacious room behind the screen to build an interface to: 1) securely place the Lynx on a stand; 2) output VGA; 3) connect a standard DB9 compatible controller (Mega Drive, Master System, Atari). It’s a tight squeeze, but the VGA, Controller port and Stand all fit neatly in the small 3x4cm interface window. This was an absolute pleasure to build, everything went smooth and simple, all the measurements were direct hits, hell even the stand only took me 10 minutes to design (8 hours to print, but hey). So let’s see it in full VGA action: It’s perhaps the best handheld to consolize: the GameGear has most games on Master System or Mega Drive, the GameBoy looks rather silly and clunky on a monitor, and TurboExpress is pointless, because it’s a 1-to-1 conversion of the actual console. I am glad I did it, I hope you will too, and stop placing those ugly connectors on the top of your handheld. Building the Lynx 1-UPI bought a pristine looking junked Lynx 1 for 20 euros – seemed a good place to start, let’s see if we can bring it alive! I replaced all the capacitors, power input socket, MOSFET, but finally it was the two 3906 transistors that were the issue. In order to do these replacements, you need a fine-point soldering iron and some tweezers, but everything on the board is quite spacious, so there’s no mistaking what’s what. This part is cheap: 7 dollars on console5.com. They have links and tutorials on that site, very complete. I also bought the McWill for 120 dollars, I was gonna do this mod regardless if this particular system was junked. So far everything together cost me ~150 dollars. After bringing the console back to live, it was time for McWillification! I followed the 1 page diagram that came with it, but it’s a little information dense, so I followed the following video instead: This worked better than I could have ever imagined, I know everyone says they’re gobsmacked when they see the difference, but it really is very true – I get why it’s such an expensive mod now. I was gonna leave it with that, honestly that’s just everything one could ever want from an upgrade… but, of course, me being the way I am, things escalated. You see, the mod came with the VGA socket, and I saw how people were placing these at the top of their handhelds, and you know what – it looked ugly. I want the facade of the handheld to be untouched. While I was adding the McWill mod I noticed the enormous space left behind the screen, which is when I had the idea: make the Lynx into a hybrid, with the connector ports at the back with a stand for console gaming via VGA, and all the ports hidden behing a minimal cover during handheld gaming. I first ordered DB9 sockets for a controller, and placed this together with the VGA socket on the inside of the battery cover. I made a little window in the battery cover, 3D printed a frame and cover for the ports, and there we have our interface. For the controller ports I had to solder 6 wires on the button pads of the Lynx PCB. Luckily most of these have soldered extension traces, so you can avoid blocking the normal button-to-pad press, but for two I had to solder directly onto the pad: be mindfull to be as flat as possible. Then we wire up the VGA socket to the pads on the McWill screen, this is shown in the accompanied diagram of the screen. We then place the DB9 and VGA socket in the space between the batteries, where the little light tube of the old screen sat (ignore the loose wires, they’re from the battery input, I cut them for ease of access). In the left picture, top connector is the VGA socket you can see running to the McWill screen. The lower connector go to the front of the PCB to the button pads. When assembled the VGA socket is lower, and DB9 is upper. Next to these I added screw connectors, so that I may fix the system to a stand, as shown in the next pictures: Unlike the Nintendo Snack Pack, this was a joy to make. I did it to unwind and relax, I didn’t want to build something from the ground up, but this just gave enough inspiration to just slightly 1-up it. The Lynx Stand and little VGA cover in particular really clean the mod up nicely, and makes this thing into a fully consolized system. I must admit though, I’ve been mostly playing it with the stand and controller via the McWill screen, not via VGA, but hey, it’s there. Finally, it all cost me a substantial 150 euro, but it was worth it. The Atari Lynx is a very strange and powerful handheld, spanning 7 years with 72 games, it’s still enjoying new homebrew releases every year, with a small but dedicated following. I’m very happy to be one of them. Upgrades: Full capacitor replacement MOSFET replacement 3906 Transistor replacement Power input socket replacement McWill Screen upgrade VGA output port DB9 input port Custom interface window & stand
- 18 replies
-
- 18
-
-
[Update - I sold this 9/2020] I have this very rare, complete OSCAR device for sale. The box is open however the device itself and some of the contents are still in their factory shrink wrap. Please see the pictures I attached 8/6/2020 in the thread below. This is an interesting device that was designed to work with a special magazine and could optically scan the programs/software in the magazine printed in barcode form. The company failed and there were only a few (or one) issue of the magazine. Take a look at the pictures I posted on the linked topic (scroll to the bottom of page1, see my Aug 6, 2020 post). Also the topic tells a lot more about the device. Message me if you would be interested in purchasing this unique bit of 8bit history. Thanks!!
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord