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Hello, I found this light sixer with this serial number. Can anyone tell me if is it an original serial number? Thanks
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Hello, I found this light sixer with this serial number. Can anyone tell me if is it an original serial number?
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Now i'm not a programmer, but I've been thinking of a Game where you play as a JSDF helicopter Pilot and you have to fight a division of evil helicopter pilots, alien U.F.Os and the final boss Godzilla. Even though I said i'm not a programmer, I drew up some crappy sprites on some graph paper as seen below. So what do you guys think? Would you play an atari game about godzilla?
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I got a good sized collection so far even got some rare stuff. Rockin the Vader cus it’s the best vcs in my opinion.
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I was pouting over the lousy 64KB of ram in my 65XE the other day and decided to look into expansion options. It's one of those without the ECI port, so it would need to be an internal unit. Looking at what was out there, I wasn't very happy. How about I try my own hand at it? Here's my initial thoughts on the matter. The idea is 1) it must use the "standard" CIA PORTB for bank control, 2) it cannot interfere with the normal operation of any of the bits, and 3) it should support CPU/ANTIC bank control. I looked at the memory available online... what do you know, there's a 2Mx8 5V 45ns SRAM from Digikey for about $5. Two of them would fill out a full 8 bit bank select just peachy. But how do you get 8 bank address lines from the port without interfering with the operation of the bits? A latch comes to mind. And that's the main thing - a hex D-Type flip-flop. Clearing PB7 will clear the latch, so asserting the self-test ROM will just clear the latch. No problem there. I use PB6 as the flip-flop clock (latched on rising edge). So if this were in an XEGS, clearing PB6 enables the Missile Command rom, which wouldn't be an issue as long as the code to switch banks isn't in either the bank memory space or in the rom cart space. No problem there, either, especially on systems without Missile Command. I use PB5-0 as the inputs to the d-flip-flops... no problems there as long as the code to switch banks isn't in bank memory space, the cart space, or the OS ram space... so in the first 16KB; oh, and the ints are off unless you keep the int code and data in the first 16KB as well. Still not an issue. But how do I get 8 bank address bits from 6 latched bits. Well, just use PB2 and 3 as normal. The latched bits extend them from 2 bits to 8 bits. Use A21 and it's inverse to select one of the two sram chips, use PB4 and 5 along with A14 and A15 and /HALT to generate the other chip enable, a few gates for output enable and write enable and Bob's your uncle. The prices in the pic are from Digikey in single unit quantities for surface mount parts. A handful of bypass caps to round it out at less than $15 in parts... minus the board. That's gonna be the "fun" part. Been a while since I made a board. I'll update as I get further along. Comments and suggestions are appreciated.
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Hey everyone. Had a quick question for those of you familiar with Hardware because I really am not. i have a video issue with only certain homebrews and hacks. Original release 2600 games play fine, all 85 or so i own. It doesn't happen every time with the effected games, and when it does happen usually taking the game out and reinserting it once or up to 3 times will make the issue go away. could this be a power issue? Capacitors or something inside the system failing? Or simply just RF interference of some kind? I'm using a light sixer on a CRT through RF. I'll post a picture of one of the affected games and then a couple of pictures of regular games playing fine. thanks alot everyone.
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I have a Joystick controller that came from an Atari Flashback console (Flashback 2 I believe) that has worked fine until recently. All of a sudden the right direction stopped working. I took it apart and re-soldered the wire for the right direction, but nothing changed. At first it went up when I pressed it to the right, but that was only due to a sloppy soldering job (the solder was connecting the right and up directions). After fixing this, the problem was not fixed. Would it be a problem with the controller's connection to the console? If anyone has any advice I appreciate it. -
I had this sitting on my computer for about a year, so I finally uploaded to YouTube. What do you think? Questions, Comments, etc?
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After finishing some upgrades to my ST2: 4MB, TOS 1.04 and Int/Ext drive swapping I was eager to try a SatanDisk and finally enjoy a fine looking machine. No way, I have two Satan and none of them work, I mean, they work but they ended corrupting the SD, always, no SD survived the experience. I've need to rewrite the SD countless times, rendering the device as totally unusable, half an hour and it doesn't boots anymore and all partitions are lost. I know about the "bad DMA" fact; but I'm not sure if it's an absolutely true story or maybe there's a little myth around it; so, there's a way to make the SatanDisk work with these machines or I need to start thinking in dumping the Satan and use a Gotek drive instead (that's why I modded the drive swapping)?
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I'm putting the final touches on this long delayed project., so here is the first summer '19 status report. I tested on my real XEGS hardware to ensure no game-ruining bugs! Didn't find any! Although that ranking seems too high based on how many times I got devoured and how many minutes I took to beat it ... I take notes of which variation I play , the end stats, and the ranking given. I'll review them after a few weeks and see if I need to tweak the rankings logic. It's not a big deal, but you don't want to see the same ranking all the time regardless of how well your game went, right? I made the game a bit more joystick-driven than it had been. You can pick all the options on the Title Screen using the joystick and button now, and when you are eaten, you can revive by pressing the Joystick button. Previously I had mapped the "R" key to the revive/respawn function, but I was tired of getting up from my reclining sofa and using the clunky XEGS clip-on keyboard all the time! So now I can sit back and play Adventure II XE for hours and not need to get up. To Pause ore reset completely, you still gotta use the keyboard or console buttons though. That is one huge advantage of 5200 gaming, you have all the needed commands at your fingertips using the CX52 controller. I also experimented with some color changes. Some have complained that the Gold Key and the Green Key are hard to distinguish from one another. This is true, depending on what color is the background image that each key is sitting overtop. Plus, the keys are tiny so color bleed on the overall image is worse than with the bigger images like the Chalice. But my eyes can still distinguish the difference. I tried different hues and luminosity settings but I was reminded once again WHY I chose those colors in the original 5200 version -- the items need to be bright and a different hue from the many background graphics across 4 kingdoms. Changing colors started to bring back the old "blending-in" issue . But I did decide to tweak some background screen colors. I tested my new colors and they looked great on a real TV; now I have to change them for the proper screens in-code and recompile everything. Some of these include files, like the ADV2COLR.TXT one with the screen colors, I haven't changed since about 2006! The thing is, these are compressed into INCLUDE files which are decompressed into RAM at boot-up. I forgot the compression steps completely, had to search out old notes to re-learn it. Thanks for reading, c(_)
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- adventure ii
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This is probably the best documentary on the Amiga that I've ever seen (and I've seen quite a few). I only know a tiny bit of German, but even if you don't understand it, you can get the gist of things pretty easily. Plus, I think most of us know the main plot points in this story: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HuAsF245G4Y&t=1s
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From the album: My Collection
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From the album: My Collection
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From the album: My Collection
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From the album: My Collection
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From the album: My Collection
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From the album: My Collection
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Greetings fellow forum members. I need your help and expertise in solving a problem. Recently i bought a 2600 vader console. Its in great shape and works perfectly. It came bundled with a pair of wireless cx-42 controllers, also in great shape, but they dont seem to work at all. The console powers with the receiver unit plugged, but theres no input from the controllers. I tested them with yars revenge and the yar just keeps going up and down while the unit is plugged. If i disconnect the controller cable the yar stops moving. Also tried with missile command and pole position and nothing happens. Turning the controllers on and off or pressing anything ,doesnt seem to affect the on screen action. I opened the receiver and the controllers and they seem to be fine. Nothing broken, burned or blown. Is there any other way to test if the receiver and the controllers are working? I could get a refund for the controllers, but i really want to keep them, they look so cool and i really love to see them working. Thanks in advance for reading!
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poll Which Portable is better?
Mallard Games posted a topic in AtGames Flashback and Portable Consoles
Which of these 2 AtGames Flashback Portable's would you recommend I buy? 1) Atari Flashback Portable Console (80 Games Included) (eu) /retro by Atari ESRB Rating: Everyone 2.6 out of 5 stars 7 Xbox One $29.00(15 used & new offers) 2) Atari Flashback Portable Deluxe Edition - Hand Held Console by Atari 4.6 out of 5 stars 7 $29.99(5 used & new offers) -
Anyone else going out to Classic Game Fest 2019 in Austin next week (July 27 & 28)? https://classicgamefest.com/ Rob and I will be there. In fact, we are going to have a booth this year as an indy game developer. We aren't selling anything, just showing our existing homebrew games to let people play them on real Atari 8-bit computer hardware and proper CRT monitors. We'll be demo'ing a few sneak peeks of things we've been working on too. Pretty cool stuff I think. And of course, more than anything else we'll be spreading the word about the amazingly active Atari 8-bit computer community and sharing info like how/where to get emulators, ROMs, classic games, new homebrews, and where to chat with others interested in this great hobby (like AtariAge.com of course !). Anyway, if you come out to Classic Game Fest next weekend, be sure to look for us... bitgod - "back in the good old days" -Eric
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Looking for high quality copies of Atari television commercials from 1977-1983, will pay to have them transferred from film to hd video.
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Auction up on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-Lynx-System-Bundle/202783520419?hash=item2f36d6f6a3:g:cfkAAOSwOahdhTP4
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From the album: My Collection
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- atari
- atari 2600
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From the album: My Collection
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From the album: My Collection
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