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Please read and examine the pictures. Because I already have a copy of these manuals and because these are only in 'fair' condition I am asking only $10 plus the actual USPS Media Mail shipping cost (estimated to be $14) so $24 and it's yours. I detect no mold, mildew or water/moisture damage and no smoke. The only issue is many of the pages have been torn/ripped at the punch holes. I have a well used complete: 'De Rie Atari' set which really includes 4 separate manuals: De Rie Atari (one of the earliest and still one of the best guides to the 400/800), Operating System User's Manual (super in-depth information), Operating System Source Listing (the actual source code listing of the original 400/800 OS) and Hardware Manual (which includes 400 and 800 hardware schematics). and also a Atari 400/800 BASIC Reference Manual. I confirmed that all the pages are present and in the correct order (comparing it to another copy I have). However, many of the pages have been torn/ripped at the punch holes. As many as 10% or more of the pages. With some TLC, tape and ring protectors (if they still make them) you could fix them up. OR use them as-is. This material has likely been scanned by now however, if you are like me you like having the hard copy to work with. It will ship with the 3X 3-ring binders that I found them in.
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I mostly play my Atari games on Stella with by Hyperkin Trooper, or on Harmony Cartridge on the 1981 console I've had for 40 years, but I have a modest physical collection that makes me happy to have. And this is how I organize my digital collection...
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I have a problem accessing the menu to choose the games (roms) saved on my SDCARD. The pages are automatically descending and none of the joysticks are activated (even disconnecting them from the Atari 2600S the problem persists). Other cartridges work normally. I'm using the latest firmware version. Problem.mp4 Roms.zip
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people opened this topic to find out if it is possible to compile the unocart for other stm? because the current one is 500 usd 10 pieces and disappeared from the market. and said it’s out of stock stm32g STM32H750 whit en.TrueSTUDIO_V9.3.exe is possible?
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Just wondering if anyone has any big plans for Atari's 50th birthday coming up in a little over a year now.. Hopefully this pandemic will have died down by then and we can start having some kind of celebrations. I'm thinking parties, parades, all-day gaming, etc. Is anyone planning anything big on the west coast? Dan
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Hello to all, In a video on the YouTube channel of "8-bit show and tell" Glitch World In Commodore 64 Ninja - YouTube I discovered a floppy disk version of Ninja (Mastertronics) where the Atari and Commodore versions are on the same side of the disk. Floppy disks with Atari on one side and Commodore on the other side are very common. But I don't understand at all how to fit two versions for two very different computers on the same side of a floppy disk... Can someone explain to me how this is possible? I don't know anything about the Commodore floppy disk format, but I doubt that it is organized like the Atari one. Apart from the fact that they share the physical format 5"1/4 and 48 TPI, the rest must be very different, right? Or is it a common formatting that can be read on both? I'm really curious to know the answer. Thanks in advance,
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So, just a couple weeks ago I bought my first *real* Atari 2600 after spending years playing just Flashback models. It's a handsome black and grey American Atari Jr. model; 4 switches, small, can't fit Parker Bros. cartridges, cost $150 at my local Hock Shop. Came with a copy of Missile Command. The other day while playing Space Invaders, I spilt Chocolate Milk on the console, though it was off at the time. I let it dry and it seems to be working fine, except for one tiny detail --- the color is black and white! And it won't work no matter what I do; not changing the TV channel, not turning that little grey color switch left and right, not squeezing thr film capicators, nothing! Can someone help me?
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atari 8-bit family more on sharp 80 column Atari 8-bit text
hloberg posted a blog entry in HLO projects
At the end of the last post I briefly mentioned you could create a Luma only cable and s-video for the Atari 8-bits. This works on any 8-bit where the Chroma & Luma are split out in the 5-pin DIN connector for the video & audio. There are some 8-bits that Atari elected NOT to separate out the Luma & Chroma unfortunately; 800XL made before August 1984, 1200XL and most 600XLs. All these computers had a single pin for just the composite connection only. There are ways to modify these computers to include chroma/luma but they all require modifying the motherboard in some form or fashion so I won't go into them here. Here is the video/audio pin-out for the Atari 8-bits. To create a luma only video cable for sharp B/W 80 column video on a composite monitor: pin 1 > video composite + on monitor pin 3 > audio + on monitor pin 2 > split to composite video - & audio - on monitor what you would do is swap the luma cable for the standard color video cable when you wanted that sharp 80 column look. This works on any un-modified Atari with the luma/chroma pins set on or modified Atari with the luma/chroma fix. If you are lucky enough to still have an s-video monitor you can create an s-video cable that can give you 80 column & color. s-video pinout. Again, you will need an Atari 8-bit where the luma & chroma pins are set on. To create an S-video cable: Atari pin1 > s-video pin 3 Atari pin 5 > s-video pin 4 Atari pin 2 > s-video pins 1 & 2 sound is separate line from Atari pin 3 & 2. If it turns out the 80-column text isn't quite sharp enough just attach Atari lines 1 & 2 which be just luma, no color. Now I haven't tested the luma only cable personally but I talked to people who have and it worked for them. As always, this is just my suggestion. I am in no way responsible for any damage you may do to your Atari. (I don't see how you could harm our Atari making these cables but where there's a will there's a way). There you have it. Have fun. -
atari 8-bit family low cost sharp 80 column text for the Atari 8-bit
hloberg posted a blog entry in HLO projects
As it currently stands there are two ways to get that sweet 80 column text on the Atari 8-bit computers. First way is to get a hold of a XEP80 (currently rarer than hen's teeth). The XEP80 was an odd beast created by Atari that attached to the joystick port of the Atari and then attached to a monochrome monitor. This little device gave true, and very clear, monochrome 80 column text when ran with the appropriate software. Downside was you had to have two monitors to make it work properly; one attached to the XEP80 and another attached to the standard video port of the Atari. (Nice article from the atarimuseum on the XEP80) Another way is by using GRAPHICS 8 and a 4 character wide font. This may not be ‘true’ 80 column text but properly used could be very effective with caveats. It works fairly well on an unmodified Atari IF you have a B&W TV or, even better, a monochrome monitor. A color TV, LCD TV/monitor or even some composite monitors, not so good due to artifacting effect inherent to the Atari. The above screen was created on an LCD TV using the BASIC program Easy80 easy80.zip from Antic magazine. Easy 80 creates an 80 column text for BASIC programs using GRAPHICS 8. Note the color bleeding of the artifacting. Readable, but not that great. On old style color CRT TVs the bleeding effect could be even worse. One way to clean up the artifacting effect is purchase a video board like the Sophia or VBXE. These boards produce sharp VGA screens but must be installed inside the Atari and are a bit expensive. You could also use a S-video cable with your XE or properly modified XL. S-video creates a sharper image than just the standard Atari composite but finding a new TV/monitor that still supports S-video is getting extremely rare. But you can still find S-video cables for the Atari throughout the internet for sale. If you have a XE or XL modified for S-video and an S-video TV i would recommend getting one of these cables as it is a bit sharper than composite only and can support 80-column. Or you could go the way I did. Little background. The US 600XL only comes with an RF connection. It’s a good RF video signal, as RF signals go, but it’s still RF with all the inherent problems of interference and just plan poor video quality. So after looking around at all the options that I could afford, I choose the UAV board to replace the RF. (Here is my post on installing the UAV.) While installing my new UAV chip in my 600XL I once forgot to hook up the color line and what I got was very clear mono B&W. Below, The line is supposed to be connected to the screw connector at the top to supply the color signal to the UAV. Not attached gives a B/W screen and if you are still in the process of installing the UAV and didn’t notice the disconnected line can scare the bajibious out of you. Well if you read over my post on installing the UAV you’ll see it got installed OK and all was right with the world. But that got me thinking, what would using the above Easy80 column look like if I disconnected that line. Would it clear up the screen and show a sharp Atari 4 pixel wide font 80 column text in all it’s glory? Well, yes. What I had stumbled upon was Luma only display, a well worn technique used by Atarians since, forever. Screen graphics with intensity only data and no color data. Perfect for 80 column text! IDEA! What if I put a switch on the back of the computer to turn off color line when I wanted sharp 80 column text. Inside modification where I bypass the line to a switch. The switch is on the right where the channel select switch once was. Down is color and up is B/W. Works well with my composite connection on my LCD TV (see other UAV install post why I settled on composite.) Now I’ve been told you can do the same thing by creating a Luma cable for the XL and XE. What you do is create a cable using pin 2 (ground) with pin 3 (sound) for sound and pin 4 (luma) with ground to video. Don't use the composite or chorma lines. I’ve tested this with ‘THE LAST WORD’ word processor which is an 80 column word processor and it looks great but it doesn’t work with Atari Writer 80 as that requires an XEP80 to work. So there you have it, simple 80 column for the Atari. easy80.zip -
Anybody remember Atari advertising their consoles in 1989 & 1990? I'd like to hear your guy's stories on Atari's ad campaigns post 1988.
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Genesis Does! Pepenga Pengo (A Particularly Pricey Puzzler)
MegaManFan posted a blog entry in MegaManFan's Blog
At first I thought "This couldn't possibly be the same Pengo that I used to play on Atari consoles back in the day." Well IT IS. They added a story mode and some time limits but the gameplay is basically the same. Then I thought "Well this makes perfect sense. Sega made the game, Sega owns the IP, so they must have printed a whole bunch of copies since it was cheap and in-house." Well THEY DIDN'T. -
Hi everybody, Anyone knows if its possible to change the position of live bar? I wanna put it above the score. And if anyone can explain why its so deformed in right side: And for any reason, I'm trying to take out this black line in screen, but I can't, in other projects I tried, but it always had bugs impossibilating to recompile.
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Hi everyone, Anyone can help me with this? I wanna use 3 or more sprites in same screen, using the system of flickering, something like in Adventure, I don't know how to create something like a "corroutine" in this, so if anyone can help me, thank u.
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Looking for an NTSC copy of Double Dragon for the Atari 2600.
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(Update June 8, 2021) Atari 8bit carts for sale. You won't find better prices!! See the pictures and asking prices. Make an offer. Thanks for looking!! Buy one or buy multiple to save on shipping. Buyer pays shipping. I can ship up to 6 carts to US lower 48 states for $9 USPS. Other shipping options for fewer or more carts to be determined. $8 Atariwriter $6 BASIC (3 available, $6 each) $8 Linking Logic (red cart) $8 Basketball $15 Eastern Front 1941 (2 available, $15 each) $8 Logic Levels (blue cart with missing label) $10 Music Composer (X2 $10 each) $10 QIX $6 Delta Drawing $12 Q*bert $10 Popeye $13 PILOT $10 Asteroids $39 Educational System (includes 'Talk & Teach Cassette Courseware Catalog) (Note: I may have 2 cassette courses available for this cart. We can negotiate the price for those if you are interested) $19 K-Razy Shoot-Out $19 Telelink I $15 Congo Bongo $34 Donkey Kong Junior (rare, silver label, see single/detailed picture below) is the more rare label type variant with first two words on line one. Most have each word on a separate line. $7 Football (silver label, two for sale, $7 each) $20 Atari Basic (rare silver label) $15 Joust (silver label) $15 Millipede (silver label, damaged label, includes box, image below) $11 Atariwriter (silver label) $15 Atariartist (silver label) $15 Centipede (silver label) $20 Ms. Pac-Man (silver label) $12 Flight Simulator II (XE label) $10 Bug Hunt (XE label) This is the more rare label type variant with first two words on line one. Most have each word on a separate line. $15 Millipede (silver label, damaged label, includes box, image below) Courseware 'Catalog' comes with the Educational System Cartridge
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On the NTSC Atari 600XL the only video output is RF and the picture quality is really not very good, at all, not in the least, bad. So I thought maybe, if I want to use this 600XL for anything more than a prop, I might want to replace the video with something better. After looking around I chose the UAV by https://thebrewingacademy.com/ due to it’s simplistically and it’s cheap at only $30. Plus it has one of the best pictures I have ever seen for a composite output. Installation: (My work area) NOTE: This information covers the installation of the UAV composite and the way I installed it for NTSC 600XL ONLY. There are other ways to install the device but this is the way I choose. I am not responsible for any problems you may have following these instructions. I tried my best to make as clear as possible. So there. The UAV comes several ways. I chose the pre-built drop in as it’s the simplest. The package comes with all you need to drop in install (except what’s needed for sound). FYI: here is the link to the manual: http://www.thebrewingacademy.net/UAV_manuals.zip The manual covers ALL the various machines that the UAV can be installed in giving not too much space for any one type. Read over the manual but don’t expect a step by step install. Now my installation. Of course the first thing I did was open up the computer (seen in picture above). The blue wiring is the 64k upgrade I previously did. The UAV is a little board that plugs into the slot of one of the chips you remove. Then you add some wires and 3 solder points (if install like I did). Here is the board. I put tape over the top and bottom because there isn’t much clearance in the 600Xl and didn’t want to chance a short. Top view. Bottom view. Notice an extension on the bottom pins. This is so that the chip will clear a line of resistors just in front of the chip. I found the extension to be a bit unstable so later I took it off and the board set just fine. Remove the chip U19 as this is where the board will be plugged in. The UART socket is in the black box. Notice I have put electrical tape around the resistors in front of the plug. I found that playing around with placement of the board these resistors tended to want to push against each other and short. The tape kept that from happening. Next to the UART socket I have a green wire soldered to a resistor. This wire will be attached to the UAV board later and supplies the color signal. This is the board plugged into the socket. You will be attaching wires to that green header in a bit. Notice the jumpers I had tape on in a previous picture. Refer to the manual on the placement of those jumpers for the 600XL. The board does not come with the jumpers set for the 600XL so you will have the change them. Little trivia, to the left you will see places for several missing components. This is the missing composite circuitry NOT found in the NTSC version of the 600XL. For my installation I removed the RF module and the channel selector switch. Location is next to where the channel switch was. This is where I take the sound off of. I soldered in two pins to plug the sound cables into for easy removal. Pin on left is ground. OK, I know I’m going to get a lot of gruff for this but I didn’t solder in a 5 pin plug for this install. Reasons, I plan to only use the composite so most of the other pins would not have been used since I had no way of utilizing the S-Video capabilities of splitting the Luma and Chroma. Also I already had a dual RCA plug. Anyway, here is where you plug the wires into the board and the sound. I cut holes for the RCA plugs and mounted the board on the back of the 600XL where the RF plug was. AND IT WORKS. The finished product. That’s it. That’s all there is to installing the UAV the way I did it. Hope this helps. Good luck.
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Hi all, I just listed my original, vintage, New Old Stock (never set-up or used) ATARI Phoenix Mobile store display on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-PHOENIX-Store-Display-Mobile-NEW-Sealed-Original-RARE-Vintage-NOS/193902899445?hash=item2d258370f5:g:x3IAAOSwXQJgL62- Shipping to most countries available (North America, UK, New Zealand, etc) but please check auction listing or just ask me here if you reside anywhere else but are interested. I was hoping to have a dedicated Atari games room set up but unfortunately it did not eventuate due to space constraints. As such, I'm just now starting to let go of not just my Atari games and systems (large Lynx collection going up shortly with lots or rarities), but many Atari collectibles and memorabilia that I am starting to list as well. Good luck to anyone who is going to bid - I truly hope Phoenix gets to rise up in a good new home
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Hi I have a problem with every game I on the Atari 2600 juniour, here are the pictures I can record a video too if needed. In most of the games those vertical lines are gust a graphical glitch, bun in early games like Adventure and Combat those lines are solid walls and your character can not pass threw them . I cleaned and checked all slot connections .
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Complete collection listed here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WdZz7mJ4F1Xn1H7zAAObp5b8AxDTzlNVmze1UyTRIJY/edit?usp=sharing All Atari 8-Bit plus one Atari ST Located in the San Francisco Bay Area. Local pickup is an option. Pictures are linked in the spreadsheet. Here again for easy browsing: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0giWEFHh5xegaBr-d5IuIDLHQ
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Hello Everyone, Firstly, thanks to whoever approved my registration so quickly ? I have followed these forums for some months as I am newish to the 2600 scene and found a wealth of knowledge on things in general already. I didn't want to start necro-bumping threads from 2004 etc so figured it best to start a new one? Recently, I have been looking to get a woody (that is never going to sound right is it!?) and cosmetically I love the look of the Sears Video Arcade which from other topics I think I am not alone on this. So, as I am in the UK, I have grabbed one from the US for $10 and took the hit on postage since theres a bunch of accessories with it and it looks a good deal for that alone. My question is, I have seen a few threads of old on here were people have done similar and discussed hooking it up in PAL land but none have any actual update to say that it worked? I am aware some people have had no problems doing this though. I am hoping you guys can kindly help me with the following? - Is it true that the power adaptor off my PAL Junior will work on the Sears model without a hitch or do I need a step down convertor? Just I was told many years ago that a UK adaptor on a US Megadrive (Genesis) would work and lets just say that NO it didn't, and said Megadrive has never powered on to date! Don't want to make same mistake with the Sears. - TV signal. I have both CRTs and an LCD that my Junior runs on that (might?) support NTSC signal. What is the success rate with this as I don't really want to go down the MOD route if I can help it but not totally opposed to it. I have had some odd issues (no sound on x1 CRT but sound on LCD) with my Junior vs various TVs with no explanation, not sure why? - Cart compatibility, I always thought 2600 was region free but I have heard issues with colour signals are common between regions. I only have one US cart (Telegames Asteroids) and have had no display issues. But again I have had an odd issue with my Demons to Diamonds cart where it displays horrible colours on my CRT but normal on my LCD! Yes, the more modern TV displays correctly, the CRT doesn't! Not sure if this is my Junior just being picky with TVs or my TVs are picky with the Junior. I don't have this issue with my orher consoles. Anyway, sorry for long post. Help is much appreciated ?
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I’m new to this site, so I know this is a long shot. Anyone have Waterworld CIB? And would like to sell it? Can’t find it anywhere. I know it’s rare. Latest posts I saw were around like 2010 and people talking about them going for around $500 (CIB) that was back then though. So I’d imagine it’s more now? But for $500 i’d buy it instantly, my problem, isn’t $$$. My problem is, not finding it. Like the 2800 (cause I have seen posts on this site with people saying things like “I wouldn’t pay $500-$600 for a 2800 but that’s what they go for etc.) I’m just over here like, dude $$$$$$ isn’t the issue. The issue is you can’t find these items. Or people willing to depart/sell them. At least with me that’s been MY personal problem. Finding them. So anyone out there have either waterworld CIB or the 2800 CIB? Please just give me a price lol I have no idea where else to look. Thank you all!
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