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I’ve had this absolute unit for about ten years now, believe it or not but I got everything pictured and more for 40$ from a dude with no arms and legs having a garage sale out of his mobile home in Clearwater, Florida. Damned good times!

Dear community, first of all, happy new year to everyone. I hope you already started well into the new year. Recently, I was looking for some "easy" Bluetooth / Atari CX40 Joystick adapters and found @tschak909's post. As it seems, currently there are no such solutions available. (I hope this is still applicable?) So, I've been thinking about it for the past few days and decided to sketch a very high-level concept what could be done. I would like to avoid any design faults (and even maybe someone would like to participate somehow), so it’s publicly available on GitHub: https://github.com/cwanized/CX2BTLE/wiki/Introduction (please keep in mind, this is a first draft about some ideas. Spelling etc. not checked yet?) I am not experienced just yet with the ESP32 (in my former company I used to use Microchip PIC/NEC Microcontroller), but what I have seen so far, it should be pretty straight forward. (Astonishing what they have integrated in such a small chip). Furthermore, it would be nice if it is possible to support additional devices and different peripherals (e.g., Sega Controllers etc). Currently I am not sure if this is doable, but if I am going to design a PCB, I should keep these devices /peripherals in mind. Any thoughts? Great idea or just a waste of time? Best regards Chris

So collecting everything Bubsy got me started on collecting the E3 and video game promotion enamel and metal pins. Then while see what Zool had out there (having found about all I could for Bubsy) I found the Zool: Ninja of the Nth Dimension pin! (Update hours later...) There is a Rayman pin. looks like bigger in scale than the ones above. That one is on the way. And so far no Kid Kleets /Soccer Kid pin. But will naturally keep looking. What else is out there I wonder? Cannon Fodder? Didn't see one for that yet. But one for the Worms franchise, luckily fairly available.... Who else am I missing as far as mascots and characters go? Looked for Dizzy which have been recently ported to the Jaguar. Spread to the action games? Kasumi Ninja, Ultra Vortek, Wolfenstein 3D... nothing yet. But no surprise to find Doom. Naturally the Doom logo was out there, but so was the character one... About all I can find for now. if you find other character pins related to those found on Jaguar games let me know and I'll add it and the finder's credit here!

I have the following items for sale. Please see pictures for condition. I will be adding more items in the near future, so check back! Shipping: Currently I can only ship to USA. You are responsibly for Shipping fees, and Insurance if you choose to have the package insured. If you don't get insurance, I take no responsibility. Some items are marked as untested, I have not tested these items. Either because I don’t have the equipment, time or expertise. I believe my prices are within a reasonable range. I’m always open to offer, especially if you have proof of lower prices. Payment - PayPal Please PM to purchase. thanks for looking. Click on pictures to see bigger images. APF MP1000 Brickdown/Shooting Gallery - $30.00 $20.00 Hangman/Tic Tac Toe/ Doodle - $20.00 $12.00 Atari 2600 SwordQuest EarthWorld - sealed $25.00 $18.00 Atari 5200 Buck Rogers: Planet of Zoom box, inst(wrinkled), cart - $15.00 $10.00 Popeye box, cart, missing inst - $10.00 $7.00 QIX box, inst, cart missing ovrls - $9.00 $6.00 Radio Shack Color Computer Appliance and Light Control $15.00 $10.00 Backgammon $6.00 $4.00 Checkers torn label $6.00 $4.00 Color Baseball $6.00 $4.00 Color Cubes $8.00 $5.00 Football - torn label 5.00 $3.00 Gomoku/Renju - torn label 6.00 $4.00 Microchess 2.0 no label 18.00 $13.00 Micro Painter - no label 10.00 $7.00 Pinball 11.00 $8.00 Pinball - no label 7.00 $4.00 Quasar Commander - missing label 9.00 $6.00 Spectaculator 4.00 $3.00 Spidercide 20.00 $15.00 TypeMate $8.00 $6.00 Wildcatting $12.00 $9.00 Amiga - UNTESTED GVP DSS 8 Digital Sound Studio - $40.00 (ebay sold prices are $52) $30.00 $15.00 Apple – UNTESTED Apple IIE 80Col/64K memory expansion 1986 – $15.00 $10.00 $7.00 Disk II Interface Card 650-x104 1978 – $20.00 $15.00 $10.00 Microsoft Softcard 1981 - $60.00 $40.00 $30.00 Software Dimensions Inc Firmware ID Card SerNO SD-12595 - $15.00 $10.00 $5.00 MacRecorder Farallon Computing - $10.00 $7.00 Atari ST Navarone battery backed clock Untested - $60.00 $50.00 $30.00 Video Digitizer untested - $50.00 $30.00 Game.com Game.com Internet - $50.00 $30.00 Scrabble Complete - $5.00 $4.00 Tiger Web Link NIP - $80.00 $60.00 Vectrex Tour De France CGE - $25.00 $20.0 V-Frogger CIB - $50.00 $40.00 SNES PIKO Super 4 in 1 multi-cart CIB - $30.00 $22.00 Astrocade WAR from the 1st run of 20 - $85.00 $73.00 Intellivision ABPA Backgammon gatefold box, cart, overlays (1 ABPA) – $9.00 $7.00 Atlantis box, cart, inst, overlays – $4.00 $3.00 Beauty & the Beast CIB – $10.00 $8.00 Boxing gatefold box, cart, inst, overlays – $5.00 $4.00 Bowling 4 x overlays CIB – $15.00 $10.00 Checkers gatefold box, cart, inst, overlays – $4.00 $3.00 Chip shot box, cart, inst – $13.00 $9.00 Chip shot “NEW” label box, cart inst – $15.00 $10.00 Donkey Kong Jr box, cart, inst – $18.00 $13.00 Donkey Kong box, cart, inst – $6.00 $4.00 Lock ‘N’ Chase box, cart, inst, overlays - $4.00 $3.00 Mission X box, cart, inst, overlays, warranty card – $7.00 $5.00 Royal Dealer box discoloration box, cart, inst, overlays – $3.00 $2.00 Skiing gatefold box, cart, inst, inst update, overlays – $3.00 $2.00 Space Battle gatefold box, cart, inst, overlays – $4.00 $3.00 Super Pro Tennis box, cart, inst, overlays, unused labels – $200.00 $165.00 Tennis CIB box rough - $18.00 $14.00 The Dreadnaught Factor box, cart, inst, overlays – $18.00 $14.00 Triple Action gatefold box, cart, inst, overlays – $5.00 $4.00 U.S.C.F. Chess gatefold box, cart, inst, recommendation sheet, overlays – $13.00 $9.00 World Championship Baseball CIB - $18.00 $13.00 $9.00

[SOLD - as of 3/7/2021] Hi - Let me know if you see any carts that you need. All carts are tested and work. I can provide additional pictures. For some I have the manual to go along with the cart. Prices vary depending on title and condition, etc. PM me with any interest and I will post more pics. Some carts as low as $8 + you pay shipping. Everything is negotiable... Let me know what you have to trade... carts or other 8bit items. Stacked carts are duplicates. Silver label in upper left is Miner 2049er (silver label is faded) When you PM let me know the title and the label color (silver, brown, blue/XE or other). Thanks for looking! (Note: Updated photo 3-Mar-2021) Also 1 Millipede for sale with a good condition original box.

Hi, WTB Atari ANALOG Magazine Issue #7 Thanks!!

There is a small hole in the rear of the case other than that it is perfect. The mem upgrade makes it a new machine. Comes with power supply. $100 obo. Thanks, 400_mem.mp4

Hi - Let me know if you see any carts that you need. I can provide additional pictures. For many I have the manual to go along with the cart. Prices vary depending on title and condition, etc. PM me with any interest and I will post more pics. Some carts as low as $7 + you pay shipping. Everything is negotiable... Let me know what you have to trade... carts or other 8bit items. Thanks for looking!

Hi AtariAgers, MC to all.... I am new here and been collect over 1170+ files total 9.95 mb. Directories Listing: 08/20/2020 12:51 AM <DIR> Flashback Series 12/25/2020 05:03 AM <DIR> Hacks (hidden directory called Black background hacks) 12/25/2020 05:46 AM <DIR> Homebrews 12/25/2020 05:18 AM <DIR> Non-Original Games 11/26/2020 03:35 AM <DIR> Original Games 08/30/2020 07:58 PM <DIR> Original Games With Menus 06/10/2020 01:16 AM <DIR> Previews 12/07/2020 02:40 PM <DIR> Prototypes 06/10/2020 01:16 AM <DIR> SECAM Video Games 12/12/2020 05:59 PM <DIR> WIPs I been lurking around here since 2011, never join here until now... hehehehe...

Is the ball in these typically that yellowish color when new? After seeing images in some recent topics I decided to dig mine out of storage, forgot what great condition mine was in and about the only thing I have that also still has the clear plastic on the aluminum strip (MUST RESIST REMOVING ?) I really need to try this accessory more as it seems to be in excellent shape however, I noticed like many pictured the ball seems discolored yellowish, looking up images online it seems it WAS originally white? If it should be white might look into brightening or SHOULD I BOTHER? Is it more trouble than it is worth? I only lightly tested it upon receiving the 5200 / games etc in a lot years ago. I should do more testing and also maybe give it some maintenance if required. ANY GOOD TUTORIALS or videos on that? Also, I may have posted similar at one time but my memory is not getting any better ? Still, thanks in advance for any / all replies.....IF anyone or a mod notices I am repeating this post just merge it or point me in the direction of original post.

Hello there! (Insert Obi wan meme here): I bought an Atari 800 XL for my older brother. Through the Atari800win PLUS emulator I created a program that is basically Jingle Bells with a words of greetings, this done in BASIC. I saved my program as TXT thanks to this thread:https://atariage.com/forums/topic/196715-saving-basic-programs-from-emulators/?do=findComment&comment=2503145 But now, what I want is to be able to load the program through a WAV that I am going to host on YouTube to make it run on the Atari. I have the audio jack cassette convert. I tried to transform the TXT with MAGOTRANS but when loading the program from my mobile device as WAV, it throws an exclamation mark on the blue loading screen. I think that the convertion is wrong. I require your help, this is a gift for my brother and Christmas is near. So, ¿How I can load a txt program to my Atari from a WAV audio? Regards.

Atari 400 with power supply, works great 50$ Plus shipping (OBO). 20201216_171901.mp4

This is just a quick blog of my experience of building an S-Drive Max and not a step by step, like I usually do, because there are just so many other good resources for building the device. First, this project is a fairly easy, that is if you read several of the 'how to' websites and watch a couple of videos before working on it. (I listed some resources below). You see, most of the websites are fairly good, it's just that they tend to leave out bits a pieces in their descriptions so a step might be missed. Second, price was fairly cheap. Mine cost only about $25.00, with a caveat; I already had an old SIO cable, I didn't plan to build or purchase a case and mine does not have the fix to allow other devices on the SIO chain. After you add all these things isn't much cheaper than one pre-built. But I didn't want one built, I wanted the experience of building it myself. Also, this is just a temporary till I get the money for a Fujinet. Now here some little problems I ran into. Nothing earth shattering, just annoying. 1.) Don't assume that the LCD screen with the same name as the one you need is the correct screen. I first purchased the wrong screen that had the right name but wrong pin lay out. check closely before you buy. 2.) I couldn't get Xloader to work on my laptop because I had previously installed a USB-comport adapter. Even after I removed the drivers for the comport adapter from my laptop Xloader still couldn't create a port. I had to switch to my desktop to get Xloader to create a port. 3.) Speaking of my desktop the Arduino creates a virtual comport and I forgot that I already had a real comport on my desktop and picked the real com1 instead of Adruino virtual com4. I restarted the Xloader with com4 and at that point everything went well. 4.) Double check your solder points. My +5 solder looked OK but caused the S-Drive to reboot over and over when moved. Re-soldered the point and everything went OK. that's it. Happy hobbying. HLO fuzzy picture of S-Drive Max Here are some resources: https://atariwiki.org/wiki/Wiki.jsp?page=SDrive-MAX https://atari8bit.net/tutorials/de-re-sdrive-max/#using https://www.bpharoah.co.uk/atari-sdrive-max/ And a YOUTUBE video:

Looking for an Atari 7800 with VGA, DVI or SCART output on the system. No S-Video, HDMI or AV. Already have an AV and HDMI system with these outputs.

I am deciding to sell my collection(s). I have a couple of large collections that I want to sell. ( most of the Atari library, half of the Nintendo library, several other systems and games (sega genesis, super Nintendo, odyssey2, intellivision, action max, many standalone pong systems CIB, etc, etc.) ) looking to see if anyone would be interested in buying one of more of these collections, or is anyone has any information on the best place to sell these collections. thank you for all your help.

**GONE** **All six games have gone to a new home.** Hi all, Looking to trade the carts below for some loose Sega Genesis Carts. Dungeons of Daggorath Mega Bug Androne Yar's Revenge Zaxxon Galaxian Some loose carts that I'd be interested in are: Space Harrier 2 Castle of Illusion Forgotten Worlds Gain Ground Golden Axe II Ghouls n Ghosts Mystic Defender Thunder Force II Thunder Force III Sub-Terrania Aladdin Lion King Target Earth Mean Bean Machine Puyo Puyo I'd be happy to hear what other games you might have too. Money can be added to balance things out if need be. I'm new so I'm OK to ship first if you're an established member. Thanks!

Colecovision lot: $1250 Atari lot: $750 Price on bundled lot: $1600 Looking to sell a collection of CIB Atari and Colecovision games/accessories. There are about 70 games in varying conditions. We’re moving in a few weeks and are looking to downsize a bit. I’m hoping to move this as a lot and am willing to consider offers Here is a link to all the pictures: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0PGrq0zwG4fPIc Here is a link to a Google sheets document with a list of games and prices based on Pricecharting: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oTgS9Owj6MN7RDZTpwCeT4Xn6xDjvWY6IIaObJbzNsg/edit

Hi, I just did a cap kit on jr. and the only thing that ain't working is the led. It wasn't working before either. I put a 12 volt from china on there and it ain't lighting up. I tested the led with a diode function on the tester and it read .81. I took a resistance test and I got OL. It's in reverse? Lol? Thanks.

Here are 4 2600 controller that I built and have up for sale at the moment. The black and white one and also the red/black/white one are 70$ shipped in the cont. USA. They are ready to rock with 10’ cables, plexiglass covers,siemitsu ps14g pushbuttons, and (black one) has Sanwa joystick, red has a zippyy stick. The white and black one and the green one are 60$ shipped USA. They have 6’cables. Also taking orders for custom builds right now as well if any of y’all happen to be interested in a custom stick. I’m not set up to build for 5200, Jaguar, or intellivision, but those several consoles aside, I can build out for most any retro consoles. Thanks for taking the time to check them out. Jeff Boss Level Controls

My family didn't have an Atari until well into the crash, when they were on clearance tables with double-digit price tags. Before that, my time on the VCS / 2600 was mainly on the displays in the stores. There wasn't a Sears, Kmart, or Woolworth's within walking or biking distance for me--let alone any arcades--so I had to wait until the folks went to the store. And then, it was game on! Maybe. If there was a pile of bikes by the store entrance, then the store display was usually mobbed with kids all waiting for their short turns to play whatever cartridge was being featured. If there were any 13-15 year olds in the crowd, forget it. They'd hog the controls until the store closed, while the pre-teens like myself looked on helplessly. Any polite requests to play were met with stony silence. Sometimes we'd resort to watching the unplayable demonstration cartridge repeat itself over and over on the nearby Intellivision display. Another obstacle was grouchy sales clerks, usually old ladies with curly hair, horn-rimmed bifocals and perma-frowns. Couldn't get within ten feet of the display without being halted by a snappy "Don't touch that!" But other times it was wide open, and I got to spend some quality time with Asteroids, Berzerk, Pitfall, and Seaquest. Some of my best Atari play sessions were at the Air Force BX...there weren't usually many other kids there, my folks would shop for hours, and the sales clerks were young and friendly. Sometimes they'd even play a game or two with me. Got any memories like these? Please share! Larry

As anyone who has an Atari 600XL knows it only came with 16k. Good enough to run game cartridges but nothing else. Atari's solution was this little device that attached to the BUS adapter on the back. the Atari 1064. These are rather impossible to get a hold of these days (in fact I had a hard time just finding a picture) so the current procedure to up the memory is adding the memory internally. There are several ways of doing this, lotharek.pl/ has a nifty little chip that just installs under the 6502. Easy and not all that expensive (except the shipping). Another way which is harder is to install the 64k chips and slightly modify the motherboard. No easy here. Bending up pins off chips and soldering wires to them. The pathway of the true geek (who doesn't have much money as this cost only $7.00 shipped). Legal: I am not a professional but have had years of experience with computers. Still, use these instructions at your own peril. I assume no responsibility. STEP 1.) Put on a stax of wax (or MP3 player) with your favorite music. Mine is Episodes 1-6 of Star Wars by John Williams. I made it to Episode 3 before I had finished. Step 2.) Everything else. My tools; screwdriver, needle nose pliers, chip puller, small wire cutters, wire stripper, helping hand and solder station. My pile of notes and pictures: Now the Atari 600XL has 4 bolts holding the back cover along the edges. unscrew these and gentle remove the top since the top is attached to the motherboard via the, very delicate, keyboard cable. If you still have the metal shielding over the motherboard remove it via the bolts along the edge. I had previously removed mine and stored it. I, personally, find no reason to have it on the motherboard but it's up to you if you want to return the shield after the installation. Now disconnect the keyboard ribbon cable. The keyboard cable is attached to an edge card that is slotted into the motherboard. GENTLY rock the edge card out of the socket pulling on the edge card NOT THE RIBBON till the edge card comes loose. On to the main attraction, the motherboard and the chips. First is to remove the 2 x 16k chips and replace with the 2 new 64k chips. Chip location is U12 and U11. The location is noted on my note of the chip locations. NOTE: use a chip puller to keep from damaging the chips or the socket in removal. Here is a picture of one of the 16k chips is still in the clutches of the puller. Below is my map of the motherboard. I have marked the location of the chips on the map. See where the RAM chips are that need to be replaced. And another note: I got lucky in that all my chips were socket-ed. Yours may not in which case you will have to de-solder each chip. Unless you are a pro I would go with lotharek.pl/ solution (mentioned above) which is much easier. Desoldering a chip, unless you know what you are doing, always runs the risk of frying it. Now you can test the 600XL. The memory will still show as 16k (if you hook up the keyboard which I didn't) as you haven't setup the matrix yet. But you will be able to see if maybe you have a bad chip before you go further. Now comes the time that tries men's souls, pulling the support chips and soldering wires on the legs. The below map shows the location of the chips to pull and the wires to solder. I started with pulling up U5. This chip you bend up pin 3 (see mark) and solder on a wire to it. First thing is to prepare the wire by brazing the end and putting the shrink wrap on. below picture. This and next picture you see where I bent up pin 3 that I had pre-marked on the chip before pulling the chip. I pre-marked the pins on all the chips before I pulled them so that I would have no confusion of which pin is which compared to the picture. Also note the slight kink bend I put in the chip leg. this is to ensure the leg, which is much too long, doesn't accidentally touch the other chip when installed. I also cleaned the leg with alcohol to be sure to get a good solder. This is after I soldered on the wire and wrapped the leg in shrink wrap. When soldering the leg be sure to work as fast as possible. Too much heat on the chip can fry it. If you have a problem soldering on the wire take a break and let the chip cool before you try again. Oh, I forgot to take a picture of this but I held the chip with in the jaws of the helping hand to steady the solder. Next, carefully, reinsert the chip back into the socket. be sure all pins are in the slot except the one that is bent with the wire attached. Here is U5 and U6 both done. On U6 you bend up pin 10 and attach the wire just like the previous one. Now solder the two wires to the motherboard. U5 goes to the leftmost-C location (see above map) and U6 goes to the rightmost-J location. I just put a dot of solder on the spots then soldered on the wires into that dot. be careful NOT to let the solder bleed over into the other solder point or on one the traces on the board. on to the next and final chip mod modding the chip U16 pin8 (above picture. finished product, yes getting ahead of myself but picture of step went bad). Same as the other two, bend out straight. I this case no need for kink. Now the wire from U16 goes to resistor R36. Clip or un-solder the one end of the resistor. This is the end you solder/attach to the wire from U16. I clipped the resistor in the the below picture then bent it straight and soldered the wire to it (again see above picture of finished process). This is a picture of the resistor that U16 is being soldered to. Now it's ready to close up and test. Attach the keyboard back by putting the slotted connector back into it's slot, gently. Close up the 600XL and screw back in the 4 screws. Attach a power a sully and monitor cable and run ?FRE(0) which should now show 37902 and run the built in memory self test. You are all done. Rejoice and be glad as your 600XL now has as much memory as it's snotty big brother the 800XL. That is, if you didn't screw anything up.

My Atari 2600 Light Sixer Goes B&W When Tapped or slightly moved. Sometimes, if I toggle the B&W/Color switch, the color comes, back. Other times it doesn't. Sometimes will go to color if I toggle the switch from color to B&W, indicating that it seems to be more something loose/failing on the PCB rather than the toggle switches themselves. Any suggestions at what I should be looking at first? Thank you.

I just added US Games' "Name This Game" to my collection and it has me a bit puzzled. History First off history. Somebody came up with the idea for this game in 1982 and tried to offer it to Parker Bros. who had the video game rights for the 1975 film "Jaws". They lost the license and eventually it was programmed by somebody else and it got picked up by US Games. Without knowing what the game is, that "Jaws" bit is a little strange isn't it? Yeah, so the premise of the game itself is you are a diver who is defending a treasure from a giant octopus and a shark. That's really it. Over and over and over again. I'll be the first to admit, I'm not really sure how different the original idea was from what was created, but if it wasn't that different...how, exactly, is this a "Jaws" game? The main villain is the octopus. The thing is humongous. Takes up damn near the whole screen. So why the name? Why do we have a game about shooting an octopus and a shark to defend a treasure given the bizarre moniker of "Name This Game"? Well, we don't. It's actually called "Name This Game and Win $10,000". The Contest US Games' could not come up with a suitable title for this thing. Not really sure why, but according to Digital Press is apparently it had something to do with not being able to use the phrase "The Deep". I'm going to guess this was to not get into copyright issues over the name of the 1977 film "The Deep". If I may side bar for just a second, why not just go get the video game license for that then? Honestly. Why not? They already did that for the "Towering Inferno" and that did...ok I guess? I'm just saying the idea must have been floating around. Anyway...moving off the sidebar, the marketing department then had this brilliant idea of holding a contest to name this thing. The winner would get, all together now, $10,000 dollars! If anyone is curious, that would be roughly $27,000 today. That is a pretty significant chunk of change for a lesser known video game publisher to be throwing around. Luckily they had all that Quaker Oats money to throw around since they were owned by them. Yeah, that cereal company with the man in the hat...it was a weird time to be in video games is my point. So yeah, all you had to do was send in your form with your address and your title and send it in...as long as it adhered to the content guidelines. YOU BETTER NOT USE THE WORDS 'THE' OR 'DEEP' JOHNNY! All of this can be seen here: http://www.atarimania.com/game-atari-2600-vcs-name-this-game_7637.html The Game With No Name So we have this great contest attached to a mediocre game, not a bad game mind you, but decent. What could possibly go wrong? Well, how about an industry ending crash. Yeah, probably not the thing you want to have happen when you just released a game with a 10,000 dollar prize attached to it. This game came out in 1982 and the contest was supposed to be held at the end of April in 1983. This was the year (1983) when the entire video game industry was brought to its knees in an event called "The Video Game Crash of 1983" and a TON of companies were shuttered as a result. US Games was one of those. I'm guessing this probably had something to do with the fact that Quaker Oats wasn't all that happy that their video game subsidiary was losing money. Don't know that for sure, but that would be my guess. At this point I'd like to say that the contest was held, and little Tammy Jenkins from Germfask, MI won the $10,000 with her title "Miss Jenkins Party With the Shark and Octopus" which she used to go to college and made her family very proud. But I can't say that. No. I can't it because before the contest could be held US Games bit the dust and left "Name This Game" without a real name. Aftermath So what happened? Well, nothing. Not really anyway. Apparently the game was release in Europe as "Octopus" in 1983 after the release of the US version. Digital Press did hold a contest in 1994 (without the $10,000 prize I would assume) and the winning title was "Going Under" which not only described the game, but US Games as well. Way to rub it in. You can read more here:http://www.digitpress.com/video-game-guide/?mode=GameInfo&gameid=24144 But yeah, that really is all that happened as far as I can tell. Its a story of yet ANOTHER highly ambitious contest (Swordquest anyone?) that couldn't be completed because the video game bubble burst and crushed everybody's hopes and dreams. Well, that was sad, but this isn't over yet. My Last Question In my reading about this game, I couldn't seem to find what the final outcome of this contest was going to be for the company itself. In those rules up there it had to be a name that could actually be used as far as copyright goes. To me that says they would have actually named the game with the winning entry. My question is, would US Games have actually paid the expense and taken the time to design new manuals and labels to reflect this name change? I feel like they would have had to. What would the point have been otherwise? Just to sell more copies of a mediocre, generic game with a shark and an octopus? Actually yeah. It was probably that.

Lately I have been finding new power supplies for XL and XEs on eBay that looked a lot like a 5 volt power supply with just a new 7 pin head. As anyone who has ever had an Atari XL knows the power supplies for the XL weren't all that reliable and even though the power supply I have for my 600XL was working I thought I would build another on using current technology like the ones I have been seeing on eBay and make the old one a spare. SO that is what I did and this is how I did it. Legal: I am not a professional but have had years of experience with computers. Still, use these instructions at your own peril. I assume no responsibility. Note: use this information only if you know what you are doing. Get the polarity wrong and you could BLOW YOUR COMPUTER. So always, check, check and check. The power supply plug on the XL line attaches by a 7 pin DIN plug. looking down at the plug the left 3 pins are negative and on the right 3 pins are positive. the bottom pin is nul and not connected to anything. But, on my 600XL, only 1 pin on each side need power. So the 2nd pin from top on left got negative and the 2nd from the top right got positive. All the other pins don't need to be powered even though the Atari power supply does power them. (I assume the 800XL is the same but since I have not tested one test, test, test. ) 7 pin DINS are hard to find and expensive. So, since only 1 pin on each side needs power I used a 5 pin DIN which is easier to find and cheaper and it fits. NOTE: It was pointed out that the monitor port ALSO uses a 5 pin on the 800XL which I had forgot about since the US 600XL only has a RF connector. IF you use a 5 PIN for power be sure NOT to plug the power into the monitor port by mistake. Bad things will happen if you do, very bad. Here are the specs for my power supply OUT is 5 volt, 2 amp. The Atari power supply was 1.5 amp so I wouldn't go any lower than that. The Actual 600XL draws 800mA but you might need the extra amps for SIO port devices (such as Fuqinet) that draw their power from the computer. Oh, and if you are wondering where the power supply came from it was an old power supply for a powered USB hub. Using an old USB powered hub I knew the power was steady and filtered. Using just an old phone charger might not work as well as it could introduce interference or power fluctuations. So check it out before you commit. Here is what the plug end looks like. Pin 2nd from top left is the negative, pin 2nd from top right is the positive. all other pins are un-powered. Here is the finished item. As I said before, test, test, test and double check yourself before you attach it to the Atari. If the polarity is wrong it could brick your computer. After I attached the power supply I ran a stress test of a little program and then the builtin Atari check program in a loop for quite a while. It held up fine.

Hello guys! I need your help Atari 800, ATARI 800XL/600XL owners! If you guys own a caliber I urgently need to know which size in millimeters (or even better in keycaps unit 1U) the following keys: ATARI 800: - CONTROL key (to my measurements using pictures found on internet) 1.5U - LSHIFT key 1.75U as well as the RSHIFT - FUNCTION KEYS (Select, Start...) 1.5U - CLR SET TAB key 1.5U - RETURN key 1.5U ATARI 800XL - CONTROL key 2.0U - LSHIFT key 2.25U - RSHIFT key 2.0U - CAPS LOWR key 1.25U - RETURN key 1.75U - ESC key 1.25U - FUNCTION KEYS are spaced as 1U keysize. The only correct keyboard I can check is the Atari 130XE style... In attachment the PDF layouts of those keycaps (used by MaxKeyboard) and the keysize in keycap units. Please help me, Gianluca atari-800-xl-style-maxkeyboard.pdf atari-xe-style-maxkeyboard.pdf