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Hi everyone, Anyone can help me with this? I wanna use 3 or more sprites in same screen, using the system of flickering, something like in Adventure, I don't know how to create something like a "corroutine" in this, so if anyone can help me, thank u.

At the end of the last post I briefly mentioned you could create a Luma only cable and s-video for the Atari 8-bits. This works on any 8-bit where the Chroma & Luma are split out in the 5-pin DIN connector for the video & audio. There are some 8-bits that Atari elected NOT to separate out the Luma & Chroma unfortunately; 800XL made before August 1984, 1200XL and most 600XLs. All these computers had a single pin for just the composite connection only. There are ways to modify these computers to include chroma/luma but they all require modifying the motherboard in some form or fashion so I won't go into them here. Here is the video/audio pin-out for the Atari 8-bits. To create a luma only video cable for sharp B/W 80 column video on a composite monitor: pin 1 > video composite + on monitor pin 3 > audio + on monitor pin 2 > split to composite video - & audio - on monitor what you would do is swap the luma cable for the standard color video cable when you wanted that sharp 80 column look. This works on any un-modified Atari with the luma/chroma pins set on or modified Atari with the luma/chroma fix. If you are lucky enough to still have an s-video monitor you can create an s-video cable that can give you 80 column & color. s-video pinout. Again, you will need an Atari 8-bit where the luma & chroma pins are set on. To create an S-video cable: Atari pin1 > s-video pin 3 Atari pin 5 > s-video pin 4 Atari pin 2 > s-video pins 1 & 2 sound is separate line from Atari pin 3 & 2. If it turns out the 80-column text isn't quite sharp enough just attach Atari lines 1 & 2 which be just luma, no color. Now I haven't tested the luma only cable personally but I talked to people who have and it worked for them. As always, this is just my suggestion. I am in no way responsible for any damage you may do to your Atari. (I don't see how you could harm our Atari making these cables but where there's a will there's a way). There you have it. Have fun.

As it currently stands there are two ways to get that sweet 80 column text on the Atari 8-bit computers. First way is to get a hold of a XEP80 (currently rarer than hen's teeth). The XEP80 was an odd beast created by Atari that attached to the joystick port of the Atari and then attached to a monochrome monitor. This little device gave true, and very clear, monochrome 80 column text when ran with the appropriate software. Downside was you had to have two monitors to make it work properly; one attached to the XEP80 and another attached to the standard video port of the Atari. (Nice article from the atarimuseum on the XEP80) Another way is by using GRAPHICS 8 and a 4 character wide font. This may not be ‘true’ 80 column text but properly used could be very effective with caveats. It works fairly well on an unmodified Atari IF you have a B&W TV or, even better, a monochrome monitor. A color TV, LCD TV/monitor or even some composite monitors, not so good due to artifacting effect inherent to the Atari. The above screen was created on an LCD TV using the BASIC program Easy80 easy80.zip from Antic magazine. Easy 80 creates an 80 column text for BASIC programs using GRAPHICS 8. Note the color bleeding of the artifacting. Readable, but not that great. On old style color CRT TVs the bleeding effect could be even worse. One way to clean up the artifacting effect is purchase a video board like the Sophia or VBXE. These boards produce sharp VGA screens but must be installed inside the Atari and are a bit expensive. You could also use a S-video cable with your XE or properly modified XL. S-video creates a sharper image than just the standard Atari composite but finding a new TV/monitor that still supports S-video is getting extremely rare. But you can still find S-video cables for the Atari throughout the internet for sale. If you have a XE or XL modified for S-video and an S-video TV i would recommend getting one of these cables as it is a bit sharper than composite only and can support 80-column. Or you could go the way I did. Little background. The US 600XL only comes with an RF connection. It’s a good RF video signal, as RF signals go, but it’s still RF with all the inherent problems of interference and just plan poor video quality. So after looking around at all the options that I could afford, I choose the UAV board to replace the RF. (Here is my post on installing the UAV.) While installing my new UAV chip in my 600XL I once forgot to hook up the color line and what I got was very clear mono B&W. Below, The line is supposed to be connected to the screw connector at the top to supply the color signal to the UAV. Not attached gives a B/W screen and if you are still in the process of installing the UAV and didn’t notice the disconnected line can scare the bajibious out of you. Well if you read over my post on installing the UAV you’ll see it got installed OK and all was right with the world. But that got me thinking, what would using the above Easy80 column look like if I disconnected that line. Would it clear up the screen and show a sharp Atari 4 pixel wide font 80 column text in all it’s glory? Well, yes. What I had stumbled upon was Luma only display, a well worn technique used by Atarians since, forever. Screen graphics with intensity only data and no color data. Perfect for 80 column text! IDEA! What if I put a switch on the back of the computer to turn off color line when I wanted sharp 80 column text. Inside modification where I bypass the line to a switch. The switch is on the right where the channel select switch once was. Down is color and up is B/W. Works well with my composite connection on my LCD TV (see other UAV install post why I settled on composite.) Now I’ve been told you can do the same thing by creating a Luma cable for the XL and XE. What you do is create a cable using pin 2 (ground) with pin 3 (sound) for sound and pin 4 (luma) with ground to video. Don't use the composite or chorma lines. I’ve tested this with ‘THE LAST WORD’ word processor which is an 80 column word processor and it looks great but it doesn’t work with Atari Writer 80 as that requires an XEP80 to work. So there you have it, simple 80 column for the Atari. easy80.zip

Anybody remember Atari advertising their consoles in 1989 & 1990? I'd like to hear your guy's stories on Atari's ad campaigns post 1988.

I've been working on this project off and on (mostly off) since 2010. It's still a work in progress, but it's far enough along now that I feel comfortable in sharing it. The original goal of the project was to recreate an Atari 2600 in an FPGA, but as things progressed the project goals became more ambitious. What I ended up with is an FPGA based Atari 2600 that uses HDMI instead of RF for its television interface, and USB for a slew of implemented and planned features, all wrapped up in an enclosure that is styled to resemble a Walkman. For those who are interested, I wrote the RIOT and TIA cores in Verilog from scratch, and used the FPGA Arcade branch of Daniel Wallner's "T65" 6502 CPU core. Special thanks to Mike Johnson and Wolfgang Scherr over at FPGA Arcade (www.fpgaarcade.com) for updating the T65 core, and for sharing their work. Features Atari 2600 hardware faithfully recreated in an FPGA. HDMI video/audio output for connecting to modern TVs. Analog audio line output for use when connecting to a DVI monitor that doesn't have sound. Full support for most Atari 2600 peripherals. Enclosure styled to resemble a Walkman for total immersion in nostalgia. Pause button that will freeze the game for those times when you need to take a break. USB connector for upgrading the firmware, and also for a multi-protocol communications bus. Test pattern generator that can be used to aid in adjusting your TV settings. Planned Features Capture screen shots to FLASH, and then transfer to a PC via USB. Capture live game video and audio to a PC via USB. Save and recall machine states. PAL timing and palette. Wish List Complete debugging/monitor environment on PC via USB with flexible user specified triggering for trapping any hardware condition. Other things I have yet to think of. Specifications HDMI Video Formats 640 x 480 @ 59.94 Hz 800 x 600 @ 59.94 Hz 1024 x 768 @ 59.94 Hz 1280 x 720p @ 59.94 Hz 1600 x 1200 @ 59.94 Hz 1920 x 1080p @ 59.94 Hz 1920 x 1200 @ 59.94 Hz Audio Formats48 KHz linear PCM, 2 channels Analog Audio 940 mV P-P into 47K ohms 360 mV P-P into 600 ohms Test Patterns H Ramp V Ramp H grayscale bars V grayscale bars 100% color bars 75% pseudo SMPTE color bars 16 x 16 cross hatch H burst Photos View of the rear side: HDMI and joystick connectors. Another view of the rear side. View of the left side: buttons, USB connector, B&W/Color switch, left and right difficulty switches. Another view of the left side. Top down view of the main PCB. All ready to go. Just press PLAY.

At first I thought "This couldn't possibly be the same Pengo that I used to play on Atari consoles back in the day." Well IT IS. They added a story mode and some time limits but the gameplay is basically the same. Then I thought "Well this makes perfect sense. Sega made the game, Sega owns the IP, so they must have printed a whole bunch of copies since it was cheap and in-house." Well THEY DIDN'T.

Hello everyone I'm in the process of building a VCS based hardware clone from scratch and have a few queries; I am going to replace the 6507 with 6502 (to get full 64k addressing + hardware interrupts + phi 1 and phi2 clocks ) and adding 32k of extra ram like the super Atari project (site is down but thanks for the wayback machine http://bit.ly/2FHlAH7) But these "NEW" eBay 6502 cpus (http://ebay.to/2DzjYJC) should work, or are these new chips like 65c02 in that the silicon has been altered due to "modern manufacture reasons"? And what's the highest clock speed available on a 6502? Also can you place some asynchronous buffer sram [cy7c408 = 128byte sram fifo memory] (http://bit.ly/2HGAAlm) between the data lines on the tia and 6502/7, so that the when the TIA Is drawing the data is already in the buffer, and all the cpu needs to do is correctly send the corrects address locations relevant to data stored in the buffer? (i.e instead of cpu calculating the display every scan-line you simply write a few scan-lines of image data into the buffer before The TIA begins to draw, then just correctly address in the order of whats stored in the buffer and do program logic) Since the [cy7c408a] is dual ported with asynchronous R/W, means you can just clock the output data [DO0-DO7] bus with the 1.19MHz clock from the TIA, iirc the TIA doesn't tend to like bus speeds higher than 1.19MHz? Then this should allow one to overclock the 6502 with for simplicity of counting cycles a multiple of the [ntsc] color-burst [TIA] clock ( i.e being able to have 684 cpu cycles per scan-line {using a 6502 clocked @ 10.75MHz = ~3x the TIA clock } instead of just 76 cycles) in such cases also sacrificing [native 2600] compatibility for increased cpu speed and more time for crunching instructions. I would also assume having the TIA reading the buffer @ 1.19Mhz would present in situations a bottleneck as well (when "drawing" to the TIA)? Since you can write data faster to the buffer than its being read (if the CPU is overclocked)? Since it seems the cy7c408 operates similar to a giant shift register, once its written you have to wait until data to reach to the TIA before it you write new data?? Can you just fill the buffer with 128 bytes of scan-line/sound data for the TIA, then handle the TIA addressing, and just fill the buffer as its being emptied, and essentially have 128 bytes of "VRam" (well more like Video buffer)? Also Can NMI be used instead of RDY, so that when the tia begins a new frame, wsync simply have the TIA tell the 6502 to "Stop, Pause , Go and do Display routine and then come back here", instead of just halting the cpu? Aswell i have a few microchip and avr (atmega8515) mcu's laying around wanting to be used for something and with a both MCU's, it's instructions are pipelined so that it takes effectively 1 cycle to load and execute data or decode and execute an instruction, except iirc when changing the program counter which iirc takes 2 - 3 cycles, So you don't have wait states [i.e iirc if using a z80, thats takes 3+ cycles for most of its instructions which is why they have such high clocks]. Is it possible to use the atmega or 18f4550 as sort of display controller for the TIA having the MCU handle reads from the buffer instead, and handle writing the data to the TIA, and use the atmega8515 to emulate the RIOT? Is it possible to emulate the Riot but with 256 bytes of ram? iirc RIOT ram is in page 0 so is faster to access than the 32k of extra ram? Plus is it possible, using A12 and A15 with a 74hc138 and a logic gate or two as a way to partially decode address to swap between cartridge space and 32k ram, so one can simply keep some compatibility, simply if A12 is high and A15 low then cartridge ROM is accessed, and if A15 is high in any case 32k Ram is Accessed? just building it to just play 2600 games isn't really hard (it was done from 1977 to 1992 literally millions of times), and seems a little redundant to me, I just figured since you can build your own 2600 compatible hardware clone for less than $50 in parts shipped, why not beef it up for some shits and giggles like a dev kit, have 256k of rom space and 32k ram, 6502, if possible using an MCU or 2 as an "In Hardware display Kernel", as well as emulate the riot, And CO10444D. why you ask? Because i i'll have the only atari "super" VCS with full USB 2.0 support (upto 12Mbit/s if I do use the 18f4550 lol) and plus i can really push the hardware to the limit see what it can do with some actual "power" behind it

I'm looking for empty 800XL case and keyboard or non working computer. Shipped to Chicago. Let me know what you have.

Hi everybody, Anyone knows if its possible to change the position of live bar? I wanna put it above the score. And if anyone can explain why its so deformed in right side: And for any reason, I'm trying to take out this black line in screen, but I can't, in other projects I tried, but it always had bugs impossibilating to recompile.

Looking for an NTSC copy of Double Dragon for the Atari 2600.

[SOLD - as of 3/7/2021] Hi - Let me know if you see any carts that you need. All carts are tested and work. I can provide additional pictures. For some I have the manual to go along with the cart. Prices vary depending on title and condition, etc. PM me with any interest and I will post more pics. Some carts as low as $8 + you pay shipping. Everything is negotiable... Let me know what you have to trade... carts or other 8bit items. Stacked carts are duplicates. Silver label in upper left is Miner 2049er (silver label is faded) When you PM let me know the title and the label color (silver, brown, blue/XE or other). Thanks for looking! (Note: Updated photo 3-Mar-2021) Also 1 Millipede for sale with a good condition original box.

Hello Everyone, Firstly, thanks to whoever approved my registration so quickly ? I have followed these forums for some months as I am newish to the 2600 scene and found a wealth of knowledge on things in general already. I didn't want to start necro-bumping threads from 2004 etc so figured it best to start a new one? Recently, I have been looking to get a woody (that is never going to sound right is it!?) and cosmetically I love the look of the Sears Video Arcade which from other topics I think I am not alone on this. So, as I am in the UK, I have grabbed one from the US for $10 and took the hit on postage since theres a bunch of accessories with it and it looks a good deal for that alone. My question is, I have seen a few threads of old on here were people have done similar and discussed hooking it up in PAL land but none have any actual update to say that it worked? I am aware some people have had no problems doing this though. I am hoping you guys can kindly help me with the following? - Is it true that the power adaptor off my PAL Junior will work on the Sears model without a hitch or do I need a step down convertor? Just I was told many years ago that a UK adaptor on a US Megadrive (Genesis) would work and lets just say that NO it didn't, and said Megadrive has never powered on to date! Don't want to make same mistake with the Sears. - TV signal. I have both CRTs and an LCD that my Junior runs on that (might?) support NTSC signal. What is the success rate with this as I don't really want to go down the MOD route if I can help it but not totally opposed to it. I have had some odd issues (no sound on x1 CRT but sound on LCD) with my Junior vs various TVs with no explanation, not sure why? - Cart compatibility, I always thought 2600 was region free but I have heard issues with colour signals are common between regions. I only have one US cart (Telegames Asteroids) and have had no display issues. But again I have had an odd issue with my Demons to Diamonds cart where it displays horrible colours on my CRT but normal on my LCD! Yes, the more modern TV displays correctly, the CRT doesn't! Not sure if this is my Junior just being picky with TVs or my TVs are picky with the Junior. I don't have this issue with my orher consoles. Anyway, sorry for long post. Help is much appreciated ?

Happy Holidays To all, Barb and I wish you the best for the holidays ****Coming very soon **** Sega combos. Many variations will be available, including the CD, the CD platform and so on. If you have any interest in these, send me a PM indicating which or what combinations you are looking for. How many times have you seen a console setting on a shelf,or a table,and covered in a fine layer of dust or sticky fingerprints? Dust and sticky stuff is not our friend!And its certainly not a friend to our consoles. So, a dust cover is not only "eye candy" but it keeps that console killer, dust out. Oh,lets not forget those other killers,foreign objects,unknown liquids,and little kids. And it adds a touch of cool to your collection *****And to all of you sending prayers our way, Barb and I thank you.******* Leukemia is for lack of a better description a life changer.Since I was diagnosed with this a year and a half ago, our lives have seen the entire range of emotions. I was told that I had 1-2 years left when they 1st found it. Then after a very aggressive pattern of chemo and blood transfusions, it went into remission 4 months ago. But now its back again, and I have to be very worried about infections. So we are back to the chemo again, and hope that another miracle will occur. After a depressing vist with the Dr. it appears that choices of treatment , have become limited. I can either go to the hospital for a month where they would treat this with a very very aggressive chemo, or I can get a milder version , given as a shot for 5 days, every month. The choice is becoming clear, and it is Quality or Quantity. I have chosen the quality, and with that I am not sure where it will go. I will say that at least I have been given the option, which alot of people do not get.And after the second go around with the Chemo, I am holding my own.I cannot decide which is worse, a round of 15 shots or getting a bag hooked up for an hour at a time. Bottom line,with Barbs help, and the amazing drugs I soldier on. Again thank you to all who send us best wishes. Since my wife(Barb) started making these covers over 16 years ago,she has continued to expand the choices.I am posting a lot of pictures so you will be able to see all of the choices available. For those of you just seeing these for the first time,we have been selling on Ebay over 15 years,Atari Age over 5 years and have sold covers to buyers worldwide! Covers for the Atari 400 and 800 now available with Red or White logos. . These are all custom made,from"pleather" which is a type of vinyl/leather.Easy to clean,and maintain Yes,we will accept Paypal-verified *******Shipping, no problem with going out of US, as long as you know I have nothing to do with USPS pricing******* Yes, we will combine shipping. And yes, we will give a discount when multiple items are bought. ******Note***** While most of the pictures show the cover installed on an actual console,a few do not,which is why they look dis-sheveld OK,pricing is as follows: 3DO $31.00 Atari 1050(Floppy Drive) $17.00 Atari 5200-$18.00 Atari 5200 Trak- ball-$16.50 Buy both of the 5200 units(Console and Trak-ball) $32.00 Atari 2600-$18.00 Atari VCS-$18.00 Atari 2600 Heavy Sixer-$18.00 Atari Jr/Rainbow-$14.00 Atari 7800-$18.00 **Atari Specials all 4 covers $60.00= 2600,7800,5200, and 5200 Trakball Atari Jaguar-(white)-$16.00 Atari Jaguar-(red)-$16.00 Atari 400- White or Red Logo-$17.00 Atari 800xl-$18.00 Atari 800 Red or white logo-$19.00 Atari Jaguar CD-$18.00-White or Red lettering Colecovision Console $18.00 Colecovision Roller Controller$16.00 Colecovision Module 1(Atari Adaptor)- $15.00 Colecovision Module 2-$18.00 Buy all 4 for $65.00 Commodore 64-$18.50 Commodore Vic 20-$18.50 Commodore C128- $18.50 Commodore C16-$18.50 Fairchild Channel F -$22.00 **Has cutout for power cord and joystick cords** Intellivision(Master System)-$18.00***With running man logo*** Intellivision II-$16.50 Both Intellivision Special Covers $32.00 Intellivision=INTV III- $18.00 Magnavox Odyssey II $25.00 Mattel Aquarius Computer $16.00 Nintendo-NES 101 Red or White Lettering-$16.50 Nintendo/NES White or Red Lettering-$17.50 N-64-White or Red Lettering-$17.00 SNES-White or Red Lettering-$17.00 Sega Dreamcast-orange-$18.00 Sega Dreamcast blue-$18.00 Sega Dreamcast Red- $18.00 Sega Genesis II-$16.50 Sega Genesis-16 bit $18.50 Sega Saturn -$18.50 Sega Master System -$16.50 Sega Mega Drive- $17.50 Sega Mega Drive II - $16.50 Sears Video Arcade II $18.00 ***Looks like the Atari 7800 Sears Tele-Games(Atari 2600) -$18.00 Sears Tele-Games(Atari Heavy 6r)- $19.00 Sony Playstation 1 $16.50 Sega Mega Drive- $17.50 Sega Mega Drive II - $16.50 RS 80/Tandy/Radio Shack Computer-$19.00 Texas Instruments 99/4a $18.50 Turbo Graphx 16/TG 16 $18.00 Vectrex Dustcover Black /w/ Blue ,White,Red logo $38.00 Vectrex Cover Gray with Black/Blue $38.00 XBox(Original) $25.00 PM me for additional questions And Thanks for looking. Over the past few years we have had numerous requests for consoles and computers that we do make. The reason we do not make them is because we have not had the actual console/ computer to use for a template. Buyers say, well I can give you the dimensions or send a picture. The problem is that dimensions do not take into account all the curves, bends, protrusions etc that are common on these units. So, working from supplied dimensions almost never works. Barb and I are not as mobile as we used to be, so trying to find these computers/ game consoles is a crap shoot at best and a waste of time at worst. What we can offer is this.If you have a console/computer, preferably a parts shell unit, that your willing to send us, we will make a cover for it and send it back at no charge! Now, we are not interested in units that are so obscure that there might only be 100 in the world. Obviously for us to make the cover there has to be a market of some kind, so please keep that in mind. So, shoot me a PM, let me know what your looking for and we can see if we can help each other!

As anyone who has an Atari 600XL knows it only came with 16k. Good enough to run game cartridges but nothing else. Atari's solution was this little device that attached to the BUS adapter on the back. the Atari 1064. These are rather impossible to get a hold of these days (in fact I had a hard time just finding a picture) so the current procedure to up the memory is adding the memory internally. There are several ways of doing this, lotharek.pl/ has a nifty little chip that just installs under the 6502. Easy and not all that expensive (except the shipping). Another way which is harder is to install the 64k chips and slightly modify the motherboard. No easy here. Bending up pins off chips and soldering wires to them. The pathway of the true geek (who doesn't have much money as this cost only $7.00 shipped). Legal: I am not a professional but have had years of experience with computers. Still, use these instructions at your own peril. I assume no responsibility. STEP 1.) Put on a stax of wax (or MP3 player) with your favorite music. Mine is Episodes 1-6 of Star Wars by John Williams. I made it to Episode 3 before I had finished. Step 2.) Everything else. My tools; screwdriver, needle nose pliers, chip puller, small wire cutters, wire stripper, helping hand and solder station. My pile of notes and pictures: Now the Atari 600XL has 4 bolts holding the back cover along the edges. unscrew these and gentle remove the top since the top is attached to the motherboard via the, very delicate, keyboard cable. If you still have the metal shielding over the motherboard remove it via the bolts along the edge. I had previously removed mine and stored it. I, personally, find no reason to have it on the motherboard but it's up to you if you want to return the shield after the installation. Now disconnect the keyboard ribbon cable. The keyboard cable is attached to an edge card that is slotted into the motherboard. GENTLY rock the edge card out of the socket pulling on the edge card NOT THE RIBBON till the edge card comes loose. On to the main attraction, the motherboard and the chips. First is to remove the 2 x 16k chips and replace with the 2 new 64k chips. Chip location is U12 and U11. The location is noted on my note of the chip locations. NOTE: use a chip puller to keep from damaging the chips or the socket in removal. Here is a picture of one of the 16k chips is still in the clutches of the puller. Below is my map of the motherboard. I have marked the location of the chips on the map. See where the RAM chips are that need to be replaced. And another note: I got lucky in that all my chips were socket-ed. Yours may not in which case you will have to de-solder each chip. Unless you are a pro I would go with lotharek.pl/ solution (mentioned above) which is much easier. Desoldering a chip, unless you know what you are doing, always runs the risk of frying it. Now you can test the 600XL. The memory will still show as 16k (if you hook up the keyboard which I didn't) as you haven't setup the matrix yet. But you will be able to see if maybe you have a bad chip before you go further. Now comes the time that tries men's souls, pulling the support chips and soldering wires on the legs. The below map shows the location of the chips to pull and the wires to solder. I started with pulling up U5. This chip you bend up pin 3 (see mark) and solder on a wire to it. First thing is to prepare the wire by brazing the end and putting the shrink wrap on. below picture. This and next picture you see where I bent up pin 3 that I had pre-marked on the chip before pulling the chip. I pre-marked the pins on all the chips before I pulled them so that I would have no confusion of which pin is which compared to the picture. Also note the slight kink bend I put in the chip leg. this is to ensure the leg, which is much too long, doesn't accidentally touch the other chip when installed. I also cleaned the leg with alcohol to be sure to get a good solder. This is after I soldered on the wire and wrapped the leg in shrink wrap. When soldering the leg be sure to work as fast as possible. Too much heat on the chip can fry it. If you have a problem soldering on the wire take a break and let the chip cool before you try again. Oh, I forgot to take a picture of this but I held the chip with in the jaws of the helping hand to steady the solder. Next, carefully, reinsert the chip back into the socket. be sure all pins are in the slot except the one that is bent with the wire attached. Here is U5 and U6 both done. On U6 you bend up pin 10 and attach the wire just like the previous one. Now solder the two wires to the motherboard. U5 goes to the leftmost-C location (see above map) and U6 goes to the rightmost-J location. I just put a dot of solder on the spots then soldered on the wires into that dot. be careful NOT to let the solder bleed over into the other solder point or on one the traces on the board. on to the next and final chip mod modding the chip U16 pin8 (above picture. finished product, yes getting ahead of myself but picture of step went bad). Same as the other two, bend out straight. I this case no need for kink. Now the wire from U16 goes to resistor R36. Clip or un-solder the one end of the resistor. This is the end you solder/attach to the wire from U16. I clipped the resistor in the the below picture then bent it straight and soldered the wire to it (again see above picture of finished process). This is a picture of the resistor that U16 is being soldered to. Now it's ready to close up and test. Attach the keyboard back by putting the slotted connector back into it's slot, gently. Close up the 600XL and screw back in the 4 screws. Attach a power a sully and monitor cable and run ?FRE(0) which should now show 37902 and run the built in memory self test. You are all done. Rejoice and be glad as your 600XL now has as much memory as it's snotty big brother the 800XL. That is, if you didn't screw anything up.

Hi all, I just listed my original, vintage, New Old Stock (never set-up or used) ATARI Phoenix Mobile store display on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-PHOENIX-Store-Display-Mobile-NEW-Sealed-Original-RARE-Vintage-NOS/193902899445?hash=item2d258370f5:g:x3IAAOSwXQJgL62- Shipping to most countries available (North America, UK, New Zealand, etc) but please check auction listing or just ask me here if you reside anywhere else but are interested. I was hoping to have a dedicated Atari games room set up but unfortunately it did not eventuate due to space constraints. As such, I'm just now starting to let go of not just my Atari games and systems (large Lynx collection going up shortly with lots or rarities), but many Atari collectibles and memorabilia that I am starting to list as well. Good luck to anyone who is going to bid - I truly hope Phoenix gets to rise up in a good new home

Hey guys, so I finally got myself an Atari 1040 STf. I used to own one back 1992 and I really missed it. Now the only thing is, I have like zero games for it. I know there are Goteks and Ultrasatans out there and I might buy one of those one day but for now I really just want some good old floppy disks so I can enjoy it the way I used to back in the day. At this point, Im not too picky as Id be happy to play almost anything at this point but I will list some of my favorites that Id love to have. With that said, if you have anything available and its not on my list, please let me know anyways. The only two things are, first, I really would like to have them in box if possible as I find the box art makes a real cool display piece and second, I live in Canada, so if you are from the UK or the USA, it only makes sense for me to buy multiple games at once since the shipping starts our pretty expensive but it doesnt go up much the more you add. Anyways, thanks to everyone that takes the time to look at my post and for all replies. Top Wanted Games: Arkanoid Ballyhoo Code Name: Iceman Flood Forgotten Worlds Gold Rush James Pond 2 Kings Quest 1,2,3 & 4 Lemmings Marble Madness Police Quest 1 & 2 Rod-Land Sensible Soccer Space Quest 1,2 & 3 Tetris Time Bandit

Hi I have a problem with every game I on the Atari 2600 juniour, here are the pictures I can record a video too if needed. In most of the games those vertical lines are gust a graphical glitch, bun in early games like Adventure and Combat those lines are solid walls and your character can not pass threw them . I cleaned and checked all slot connections .

Hey Guys! It has been quite a while for me to be out and about, but I am starting to get my Retro juice flowing again. Recently I acquired the Percom RFD44-S2 that was listed on Ebay. It is a strange beast, but since I had one of these boards back in the day, I have been waiting to get my hands on one. I knew full well it was going to arrive in non-working condition. I was correct, save for the after market fan that someone mounted to the back of the case due to the heat issues these had, and hell with 2 full height drives (Which brand I have never heard of) it probably was able to fry an egg. But that isn’t what I am concerned about at the moment. As with all Percoms, I replaced all 3 Voltage regulators (even though the top two were fine.) The RFD is the model that has those sockets for the regulators what was always an issue. (Had an issue with mine back in the 80s as well). I cleaned the contacts on the Sockets reinstalled the board and I got some life out of the old drives. They just spin and keep spinning for maybe 3-4 minutes and stop. I knew from the AT-88 that I fixed up that this was not proper behavior but I gave it a shot and plugged it into my 130 XE. Nothing. Not really a surprise here. So, i checked the caps, they were all showing “something” on my multimeter. I don’t have an ESR meter so I couldn’t properly test them. So I had some 33uF 16V caps from the AT-88 project so I swapped out all the 33uF caps. Four in all. Plugged it back in and the same result. Check the caps, the top two over by the regulators show ok, the third one down shows OL. However, if I pull it from Circuit it shows fine. The one on the opposite side of the SIO ports shows high capacitance in circuit but fine when pulled out (not too much of a Surprise). So I am stumped. I checked my Diodes, most of the time they show fine, sometimes when I check them they give me a strange reading but for the most part I think they are ok. I didn’t pull the two big Caps (I think they are filters) but in circuit after discharge they seem to show proper capacitance. I did check the transformer it seems to be pushing the right voltage (from what I can tell) and the correct voltage appears to be running thru the caps. (5 and 12 volts). So Now I turn to you, does anyone have any clue as to where my fault is. I am not electronically trained but I can fumble my way around. I have included a bunch of pictures and a video showing the diodes. Thanks in advanced! Craig Percom_RFD_Photos.zip

I’m new to this site, so I know this is a long shot. Anyone have Waterworld CIB? And would like to sell it? Can’t find it anywhere. I know it’s rare. Latest posts I saw were around like 2010 and people talking about them going for around $500 (CIB) that was back then though. So I’d imagine it’s more now? But for $500 i’d buy it instantly, my problem, isn’t $$$. My problem is, not finding it. Like the 2800 (cause I have seen posts on this site with people saying things like “I wouldn’t pay $500-$600 for a 2800 but that’s what they go for etc.) I’m just over here like, dude $$$$$$ isn’t the issue. The issue is you can’t find these items. Or people willing to depart/sell them. At least with me that’s been MY personal problem. Finding them. So anyone out there have either waterworld CIB or the 2800 CIB? Please just give me a price lol I have no idea where else to look. Thank you all!

Dear community, first of all, happy new year to everyone. I hope you already started well into the new year. Recently, I was looking for some "easy" Bluetooth / Atari CX40 Joystick adapters and found @tschak909's post. As it seems, currently there are no such solutions available. (I hope this is still applicable?) So, I've been thinking about it for the past few days and decided to sketch a very high-level concept what could be done. I would like to avoid any design faults (and even maybe someone would like to participate somehow), so it’s publicly available on GitHub: https://github.com/cwanized/CX2BTLE/wiki/Introduction (please keep in mind, this is a first draft about some ideas. Spelling etc. not checked yet?) I am not experienced just yet with the ESP32 (in my former company I used to use Microchip PIC/NEC Microcontroller), but what I have seen so far, it should be pretty straight forward. (Astonishing what they have integrated in such a small chip). Furthermore, it would be nice if it is possible to support additional devices and different peripherals (e.g., Sega Controllers etc). Currently I am not sure if this is doable, but if I am going to design a PCB, I should keep these devices /peripherals in mind. Any thoughts? Great idea or just a waste of time? Best regards Chris

So collecting everything Bubsy got me started on collecting the E3 and video game promotion enamel and metal pins. Then while see what Zool had out there (having found about all I could for Bubsy) I found the Zool: Ninja of the Nth Dimension pin! (Update hours later...) There is a Rayman pin. looks like bigger in scale than the ones above. That one is on the way. And so far no Kid Kleets /Soccer Kid pin. But will naturally keep looking. What else is out there I wonder? Cannon Fodder? Didn't see one for that yet. But one for the Worms franchise, luckily fairly available.... Who else am I missing as far as mascots and characters go? Looked for Dizzy which have been recently ported to the Jaguar. Spread to the action games? Kasumi Ninja, Ultra Vortek, Wolfenstein 3D... nothing yet. But no surprise to find Doom. Naturally the Doom logo was out there, but so was the character one... About all I can find for now. if you find other character pins related to those found on Jaguar games let me know and I'll add it and the finder's credit here!

Hi - Let me know if you see any carts that you need. I can provide additional pictures. For many I have the manual to go along with the cart. Prices vary depending on title and condition, etc. PM me with any interest and I will post more pics. Some carts as low as $7 + you pay shipping. Everything is negotiable... Let me know what you have to trade... carts or other 8bit items. Thanks for looking!