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Found 710 results

  1. DoctorSpuds

    Battlezone (Atari)

    From the album: My Collection

  2. DoctorSpuds

    Asteroids (Atari)

    From the album: My Collection

  3. DoctorSpuds

    Tac-Scan (Sega)

    From the album: My Collection

  4. DoctorSpuds

    Stuntman (Panda)

    From the album: My Collection

  5. DoctorSpuds

    Strategy X (Konami)

    From the album: My Collection

  6. DoctorSpuds

    Guardian (Apollo)

    From the album: My Collection

  7. I'm looking to purchase a working Skunkboard for the Jaguar v2 or v3. Just got back into this and looks like I missed out.
  8. IMG_1069.MOV I pulled out my old 800xl. It seems to work but there is interference in the RF output. It’s pops and clicks with lines like an old VHS tracking disorder. The monitor output has never worked on this machine. The hole in the case isn’t even large enough to fit the monitor to RCA cable. I have tried many different RF cables, switch boxes, and adapters and different monitors and TVs. What do you guys think? Would it be the power supply or the graphics chip? Should I open her up and reseat chips or something? Or does it seemed trashed? I’m trying to upload a video but it doesn’t seem to work IMG_1069.MOV
  9. Hi. I recently bought an Atari Jaguar of eBay. It is PAL. It seems to power on and shows a green light. But when I hook it up to the TV, I see a distorted image (what you see when you don’t insert an Atari 2600 cartridge properly) I’ve been told by someone that the console is working as it should and the image I see is caused by the PAL system being used in an NTSC country. What do you think? By the way, I am using the AV signal. Is there something I need to buy to get it working? Thank you!
  10. Greetings! I've got a small lot of Atari drives that I'm selling. Atari 1050s: Two that are complete, one that is just the board. They all power up, but two won't read disks. There is a drive for the board, but the cable to the read head is severed. Atari 810s: Two that are in good physical condition and one that was disassembled (and a couple of cracks in the body/case). Like the 1050's they power up, but haven't read a disk since our move. All drive power up, and the disk does the initial spin. Drives attempt to read the disks, but eventually fail (disk read error). Most have power supplies included (or not, your choice). Price - $20 each or make offer. You can choose all or some. Will work a deal for for multiple drives or the lot. Available to local, or anyone willing to pay the shipping and some packing materials. Shipping from North Carolina, 28078. I'll get pictures up and post them soon. If there's no interest here, I will post on eBay next. Poe
  11. Hello guys (m/f) The NOMAM 2020 will be held from April 3rd until April 5th 2020. We are returning to our first location, the school at Schleswiger Straße 29, 25840 Friedrichstadt, Germany. Hope to see you there. Sincerely Mathy PS my meetings page will be updated as soon my ISP responds...
  12. Hello guys (m/f) This years Fujiama wil be held from August 20th until August 23th 2020. We start at midnight from Wednesday on Thursday. As always, the Fujiama will take place at the Schützenhaus, Schützenhausweg 11, 08485 Lengenfeld, Germany. Hope to see you there. Sincerely Mathy PS my meetings page will be updated as soon my ISP responds...
  13. Hi @all, I´m currently looking for an empty ATARI XF551 case, if possible with the matching side rails for a 5.25 inch drive. If anyone want to sell, pls make an offer. Thanks in advance! andY
  14. Some Christmas day purchases!
  15. I recently picked up a large collection that belonged to a subject who passed away. While going through the games i located 4 carts that were a little different at the bottom of the box. Iv been told not to test them and to possibly try to dump them. I have no clue how to do that though. Any thoughts on value, history, or authenticity? I'm currently working a night shift and cant get pictures of the boards until in the morning.
  16. Note: This is a repost of a blog that I wrote last month. I thought the members of this community would appreciate it. Enjoy. The blog can be viewed in its entirety at http://zopingo.com/dans-blog/ataripi-my-mini-atari-project INTRODUCTION This post will describe my journey to create a miniature version of the Atari VCS using a Raspberry Pi system. My introduction to the Raspberry Pi came when my daughter suggested that I use it to power my full-size arcade machine project. You can read more about that project at http://zopingo.com/dans-blog/back-to-the-arcade-a-1980s-classic. Once that project was up-and-running as a semi-portable unit, I learned of the Raspberry Pi Zero and had a thought… what if I could use that to create a mini Atari 2600? The thought came because my son had acquired a NES Classic and SNES Classic which did credit to their much older, much larger predecessors (NES and SNES) that came out in the late 1980’s and early 1990’s respectively. The classics are much smaller versions of the originals but looked the part and included many of the games that were originally released in cartridge format for their larger cousins. All-in-all these were very nice machines that captured the look and feel of the originals. Unfortunately, I can’t say the same for Atari. SO, WHAT HAPPENED WITH ATARI? I’m not sure if it was licensing agreements or what the deal was, but someone dropped the ball when the Atari Flashback units hit the market. Not only have they released multiple versions of essentially the same thing, but they gave the classic console a comical look with large, colorful, round buttons and styling that only somewhat represents the original design. The original Atari VCS (later known as the Atari 2600) was a sleek, attractive, black ribbed unit with wood-grain trim and metal toggle switches. It was a piece of art to be proudly displayed in any family room. Those pictures make me think of the Will Smith quote in Men In Black II, “Old and busted – New hotness.” The irony in that is the old machine is the “new hotness” and vice versa. There was one exception to the entire Flashback series, and I happened to have one, but only by luck due to a decision I made on my original arcade cabinet project. I acquired it from a guy on Craigslist who was selling it for $10 including two classic Atari joysticks; I was only after the joysticks so I could play Atari VCS games on my arcade cabinet before this project was even an idea. I’m glad I didn’t trash the Flashback 2 though. The Atari Flashback 2 was the only model that has a chance at being modified to look like the classic because it most closely resembles the original design. All the later versions added joystick ports to the front of the unit and they changed the shape of the bezel around the switches. SWITCHES The Flashback 2 still had those comical buttons though, which would need to be changed to satisfy my desire for the original look. So, the quest began to find some toggle switches that would resemble the originals; no problem… right? For those of you who have read my Back to the Arcade blog, you will know that I had access to an incredible electronics store not far from where I lived. Think Radio Shack of the 1970’s but much larger; back in a time when the employees were usually electronics hobbyists and could actually help you with project challenges. After a visit to my local electronics store my issue became reality; I couldn’t find toggle switches anywhere that would suit my needs until I discovered the holy grail of vintage Atari parts. Apparently, some time ago, Atari sold their entire inventory of parts to a company called Best Electronics in San Jose, CA and they sell the parts to hobbyists like me. Not only did I get toggle switches that looked like the originals; they WERE the originals and very reasonably priced! WOOD TRIM Now that I have the switch thing figured out, I got motivated to get the rest of the project done. One of the first things to do now was get rid of the cheesy, fake, plastic, simulated wood grain on the front of the unit. I’m going to get real wood, like the original unit I had in 1977. Editor’s Note: If you are reading this now and getting ready to go to the comments and blast me about the real wood comment; keep reading. If I am going to match the wood trim of the original I will have to figure out which wood and color to use. This led me down a rabbit trail for a few weeks before I finally figured it out. My research revealed that the original was probably teak and I was able to simulate it nicely with a piece of pine and some Minwax Cherry – 235 stain. Apply some polyurethane and voilà , I turned out incredible. ELECTRONICS Now it’s on to the electronics. I started this article talking about the Raspberry Pi Zero, or Raspberry Pi Zero W to be precise. The W indicates a wireless (Wi-Fi and Bluetooth) version and doubles the price to a whopping $10! This will be the heart of the project, I will be able to run any game ever produced for the Atari VCS. One of the things this project led me to was utilizing the GPIO pins to physically connect switches to the Pi. Something I did not have to do with my full-size arcade cabinet. This required a little knowledge of Python programming and some moderate soldering skills. My soldering skills are acceptable and fortunately my daughter had recently finished a class which included Python so she was able to help me out here. MODIFICATIONS Since this unit will now connect to a monitor via HDMI and the joysticks connect via USB through an adaptor (2600-daptor) and the power plug is in a different place I had to delete some of the existing holes on the case and make new holes for the above mentioned jacks. Remember the switches that I acquired earlier? It’s now time to get creative and figure out how to mount them since they are mounted at an angle, it presented a bit of a challenge, but I figured it out. Rather than explaining here, just look at the pictures below to see how it all got worked out. GROMMETS I’ve got the switches, I’ve got the wood, I’ve modified the holes, I’ve got the coding right, and I have all the electronics and adapters; I’m ready to go… Not so fast, there’s one more little detail to figure out; the switch grommets. I have been looking at many, many options of things I could use as grommets but nothing was the right size or shape to satisfy my OCD on this project; especially since I had original switches. I came up with an idea to make the grommets. I could have my friend print them on his 3-D printer, but I would need a 3-D file. I can sketch pretty well in 2-D on my computer but not 3-D which is what my friend needed to ‘print’ them. I drafted up my design in 2-D with complete dimensions (my former career as an Engineer came in useful at this point) and hired some guy in Pakistan (via www.fiverr.com) to convert my file to a 3-D compatible format for 5 bucks. He had the file back to me within a couple hours which I then sent to my friend who in-turn printed my grommets. From idea to physical parts in hand was less than half a day. Gotta love technology. PANEL GRAPHICS Since I got rid of the goofy round buttons I needed to create some graphics for my new panel. Fortunately there are Atari fonts available so I was able to go with those. My panel replicates the original as close as possible with just a couple deviations. Rather than using a toggle on/off switch, I opted for a momentary switch in this location so I can safely shut down the system by toggling the switch. Also, since this machine will not use actual game cartridges, I opted for a lighted button that will act an escape button to return to the game menu. SQUEEZING ALL THE PARTS IN Now that everything is in order, it is time to make it all fit in the console. It started out seeming like an easy task but quickly filled the space, mostly with wires. At this point I’m sure glad I went with a Pi Zero because a normal size Pi would not fit at this point. WOODEN PANEL Remember the real wood that I mentioned earlier? Well after my build was complete, I decided that I needed a full-size 2600 for some photo comparisons to show the size difference so I started shopping. I found out that working units were somewhat spendy so my focus was on aesthetically nice units that didn’t work. I finally found one on Ebay with ‘unknown condition’ for $27.85 shipped. Once it arrived, I eagerly opened it up so I could get some pictures along with my newly created invention and lo-and-behold the wood was not wood at all. It was plastic with a simulated wood grain finish. Good thing I wasn’t challenged with any bets on the topic because I stood to lose a hefty chunk of change because I was very confident that my unit in 1977 was real wood. I think this is considered the mandela effect. After I got over the ‘wood’ thing I decided to see if this thing did indeed work; and it did not. It sat in a box until after I moved and one day I decided to see if I could get it running; which I did. See my blog post entitled, Atari 2600 (VCS) Repairs. SUMMARY I was fortunate to have an Atari VCS growing up but I gave it away while purging things before I left for the Air Force. I never thought I would ever be interested in the Atari 2600 again, but this was a fun project and in the end I get to play some games that I remember as a young teen and share them with my now grown children.
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