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Found 713 results

  1. My family didn't have an Atari until well into the crash, when they were on clearance tables with double-digit price tags. Before that, my time on the VCS / 2600 was mainly on the displays in the stores. There wasn't a Sears, Kmart, or Woolworth's within walking or biking distance for me--let alone any arcades--so I had to wait until the folks went to the store. And then, it was game on! Maybe. If there was a pile of bikes by the store entrance, then the store display was usually mobbed with kids all waiting for their short turns to play whatever cartridge was being featured. If there were any 13-15 year olds in the crowd, forget it. They'd hog the controls until the store closed, while the pre-teens like myself looked on helplessly. Any polite requests to play were met with stony silence. Sometimes we'd resort to watching the unplayable demonstration cartridge repeat itself over and over on the nearby Intellivision display. Another obstacle was grouchy sales clerks, usually old ladies with curly hair, horn-rimmed bifocals and perma-frowns. Couldn't get within ten feet of the display without being halted by a snappy "Don't touch that!" But other times it was wide open, and I got to spend some quality time with Asteroids, Berzerk, Pitfall, and Seaquest. Some of my best Atari play sessions were at the Air Force BX...there weren't usually many other kids there, my folks would shop for hours, and the sales clerks were young and friendly. Sometimes they'd even play a game or two with me. Got any memories like these? Please share! Larry
  2. Lately I have been finding new power supplies for XL and XEs on eBay that looked a lot like a 5 volt power supply with just a new 7 pin head. As anyone who has ever had an Atari XL knows the power supplies for the XL weren't all that reliable and even though the power supply I have for my 600XL was working I thought I would build another on using current technology like the ones I have been seeing on eBay and make the old one a spare. SO that is what I did and this is how I did it. Legal: I am not a professional but have had years of experience with computers. Still, use these instructions at your own peril. I assume no responsibility. Note: use this information only if you know what you are doing. Get the polarity wrong and you could BLOW YOUR COMPUTER. So always, check, check and check. The power supply plug on the XL line attaches by a 7 pin DIN plug. looking down at the plug the left 3 pins are negative and on the right 3 pins are positive. the bottom pin is nul and not connected to anything. But, on my 600XL, only 1 pin on each side need power. So the 2nd pin from top on left got negative and the 2nd from the top right got positive. All the other pins don't need to be powered even though the Atari power supply does power them. (I assume the 800XL is the same but since I have not tested one test, test, test. ) 7 pin DINS are hard to find and expensive. So, since only 1 pin on each side needs power I used a 5 pin DIN which is easier to find and cheaper and it fits. NOTE: It was pointed out that the monitor port ALSO uses a 5 pin on the 800XL which I had forgot about since the US 600XL only has a RF connector. IF you use a 5 PIN for power be sure NOT to plug the power into the monitor port by mistake. Bad things will happen if you do, very bad. Here are the specs for my power supply OUT is 5 volt, 2 amp. The Atari power supply was 1.5 amp so I wouldn't go any lower than that. The Actual 600XL draws 800mA but you might need the extra amps for SIO port devices (such as Fuqinet) that draw their power from the computer. Oh, and if you are wondering where the power supply came from it was an old power supply for a powered USB hub. Using an old USB powered hub I knew the power was steady and filtered. Using just an old phone charger might not work as well as it could introduce interference or power fluctuations. So check it out before you commit. Here is what the plug end looks like. Pin 2nd from top left is the negative, pin 2nd from top right is the positive. all other pins are un-powered. Here is the finished item. As I said before, test, test, test and double check yourself before you attach it to the Atari. If the polarity is wrong it could brick your computer. After I attached the power supply I ran a stress test of a little program and then the builtin Atari check program in a loop for quite a while. It held up fine.
  3. As anyone who has an Atari 600XL knows it only came with 16k. Good enough to run game cartridges but nothing else. Atari's solution was this little device that attached to the BUS adapter on the back. the Atari 1064. These are rather impossible to get a hold of these days (in fact I had a hard time just finding a picture) so the current procedure to up the memory is adding the memory internally. There are several ways of doing this, lotharek.pl/ has a nifty little chip that just installs under the 6502. Easy and not all that expensive (except the shipping). Another way which is harder is to install the 64k chips and slightly modify the motherboard. No easy here. Bending up pins off chips and soldering wires to them. The pathway of the true geek (who doesn't have much money as this cost only $7.00 shipped). Legal: I am not a professional but have had years of experience with computers. Still, use these instructions at your own peril. I assume no responsibility. STEP 1.) Put on a stax of wax (or MP3 player) with your favorite music. Mine is Episodes 1-6 of Star Wars by John Williams. I made it to Episode 3 before I had finished. Step 2.) Everything else. My tools; screwdriver, needle nose pliers, chip puller, small wire cutters, wire stripper, helping hand and solder station. My pile of notes and pictures: Now the Atari 600XL has 4 bolts holding the back cover along the edges. unscrew these and gentle remove the top since the top is attached to the motherboard via the, very delicate, keyboard cable. If you still have the metal shielding over the motherboard remove it via the bolts along the edge. I had previously removed mine and stored it. I, personally, find no reason to have it on the motherboard but it's up to you if you want to return the shield after the installation. Now disconnect the keyboard ribbon cable. The keyboard cable is attached to an edge card that is slotted into the motherboard. GENTLY rock the edge card out of the socket pulling on the edge card NOT THE RIBBON till the edge card comes loose. On to the main attraction, the motherboard and the chips. First is to remove the 2 x 16k chips and replace with the 2 new 64k chips. Chip location is U12 and U11. The location is noted on my note of the chip locations. NOTE: use a chip puller to keep from damaging the chips or the socket in removal. Here is a picture of one of the 16k chips is still in the clutches of the puller. Below is my map of the motherboard. I have marked the location of the chips on the map. See where the RAM chips are that need to be replaced. And another note: I got lucky in that all my chips were socket-ed. Yours may not in which case you will have to de-solder each chip. Unless you are a pro I would go with lotharek.pl/ solution (mentioned above) which is much easier. Desoldering a chip, unless you know what you are doing, always runs the risk of frying it. Now you can test the 600XL. The memory will still show as 16k (if you hook up the keyboard which I didn't) as you haven't setup the matrix yet. But you will be able to see if maybe you have a bad chip before you go further. Now comes the time that tries men's souls, pulling the support chips and soldering wires on the legs. The below map shows the location of the chips to pull and the wires to solder. I started with pulling up U5. This chip you bend up pin 3 (see mark) and solder on a wire to it. First thing is to prepare the wire by brazing the end and putting the shrink wrap on. below picture. This and next picture you see where I bent up pin 3 that I had pre-marked on the chip before pulling the chip. I pre-marked the pins on all the chips before I pulled them so that I would have no confusion of which pin is which compared to the picture. Also note the slight kink bend I put in the chip leg. this is to ensure the leg, which is much too long, doesn't accidentally touch the other chip when installed. I also cleaned the leg with alcohol to be sure to get a good solder. This is after I soldered on the wire and wrapped the leg in shrink wrap. When soldering the leg be sure to work as fast as possible. Too much heat on the chip can fry it. If you have a problem soldering on the wire take a break and let the chip cool before you try again. Oh, I forgot to take a picture of this but I held the chip with in the jaws of the helping hand to steady the solder. Next, carefully, reinsert the chip back into the socket. be sure all pins are in the slot except the one that is bent with the wire attached. Here is U5 and U6 both done. On U6 you bend up pin 10 and attach the wire just like the previous one. Now solder the two wires to the motherboard. U5 goes to the leftmost-C location (see above map) and U6 goes to the rightmost-J location. I just put a dot of solder on the spots then soldered on the wires into that dot. be careful NOT to let the solder bleed over into the other solder point or on one the traces on the board. on to the next and final chip mod modding the chip U16 pin8 (above picture. finished product, yes getting ahead of myself but picture of step went bad). Same as the other two, bend out straight. I this case no need for kink. Now the wire from U16 goes to resistor R36. Clip or un-solder the one end of the resistor. This is the end you solder/attach to the wire from U16. I clipped the resistor in the the below picture then bent it straight and soldered the wire to it (again see above picture of finished process). This is a picture of the resistor that U16 is being soldered to. Now it's ready to close up and test. Attach the keyboard back by putting the slotted connector back into it's slot, gently. Close up the 600XL and screw back in the 4 screws. Attach a power a sully and monitor cable and run ?FRE(0) which should now show 37902 and run the built in memory self test. You are all done. Rejoice and be glad as your 600XL now has as much memory as it's snotty big brother the 800XL. That is, if you didn't screw anything up.
  4. hi guys I make Atari 2600 vcs reproduction console boxes plus repro game boxes. All retyped with all original fonts, retouched and professionally assembled from scratch with no scans or jpegs used. They're all on my etsy shop. Take a look and spread the word if you can. Thanks! https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/boxingatari
  5. LIVE every Tuesday & Friday Streaming the very best of Atari 2600 HOMEBREW games, LIVE on Twitch! SUBSCRIBE & WATCH: Twitch Livestream | YouTube Archive WATCH THE NEWEST STREAM (Click on Date to Watch): 20201030 Let's Play: Halloween Homebrew Special: Pumpkin Muncher (Exclusive Final Release | Fast Food Hack), Halloweenvaders (Exclusive Final Release | Space Invaders Hack), Bone Bros (Mario Bros. Hack), Spiderz (Crackpots Hack), Ghost Manor, Helloween (Pitfall Hack), Nitemare Pinball (Pinball Hack), Pumpkinhead (Frankenstein's Monster Hack), Nitemare (Megamania Hack), Castle of Doom (Exclusive WIP Update) UPCOMING LIVESTREAMS on TWITCH (Click Time Listing for Your Local Time): 20201103 Let's Play: TBD, Rally Racer (Patch Attempt #2: ?/240) (LIVE @ 6PM PT | 9PM ET | 1AM GMT) 20201106 Let's Play: TBD (LIVE @ 6PM PT | 9PM ET | 1AM GMT) 20201110 Let's Play: TBD (LIVE @ 6PM PT | 9PM ET | 1AM GMT) 20201113 Let's Play: TBD (LIVE @ 12PM PT | 3PM ET | 7PM GMT) 20201117 Let's Play: TBD (LIVE @ 6PM PT | 9PM ET | 1AM GMT) 20201120 Let's Play: TBD (LIVE @ 6PM PT | 9PM ET | 1AM GMT) 20201124 Let's Play: TBD (LIVE @ 6PM PT | 9PM ET | 1AM GMT) 20201127 Interview: Developer Spotlight: John Champeau (Champ Games) (Live Video Interview) + Gorf Arcade (Exclusive WIP Premiere) (LIVE @ 12PM PT | 3PM ET | 7PM GMT) ... 202012xx Let's Play: Holiday Homebrew Special: Mean Santa, VCS Dreidel, Byte Before Christmas, Cold War, TBD ... 2020xxxx Event: Special Unannounced Event 2020xxxx Let's Play: Dan Kitchen's Gold Rush (Exclusive WIP Premiere) 202101xx Let's Play: 3rd Annual Atari Homebrew Awards Nominee REVEAL and Playthrough Part 1: 2600 WIP 202101xx Let's Play: 3rd Annual Atari Homebrew Awards Nominee Playthrough Part 2: Atari 2600 ≤ 4K 202101xx Let's Play: 3rd Annual Atari Homebrew Awards Nominee Playthrough Part 3: Atari 2600 Completed 202101xx Let's Play: 3rd Annual Atari Homebrew Awards Nominee Playthrough Part 4: Atari 8-Bit/5200 & 7800 20210206 Event: 3rd Annual Atari Homebrew Awards Presentation ARCHIVED STREAMS (YouTube): 20201027 Let's Play: Danger Zone (Exclusive WIP Update | 7800), Aquarium, Lost Cat, Chopper Command (PATCH EARNED! 17000/10000 Points) 20201023 Let's Play: Low Res Car, Alfred Challenge, Catch A Coin, Minesweeper, Rally Racer (Patch Attempt #1: 238/240) 20201020 Let's Play: Unholy (Exclusive Final Release), A Roach in Space II: Cosmic Bugaloo (WIP | 7800), Don't Go! (Exclusive WIP), Shattered Earth (WIP Update) 20201016 Let's Play: Pitkat (Exclusive Final Release), Shadow Reflex (WIP), Chalk & Duster, Astronomer (Homebrew PATCH EARNED! 22/20) 20200911 Let's Play: Railslider (Exclusive WIP Update), R.C. Sumo Bots (WIP), Ms Galactopus (High Score Club), City Defence (High Score Club), Doggone It! (High Score Club) 20200908 Let's Play: PlusCart(+) Wifi Multicart Special, Internet Combat (Exclusive WIP Premiere) MORE ARCHIVED STREAMS (2018-2020) 2020 List of Completed & WIP Games: Atari 2600, Atari 8-Bit/5200, Atari 7800 Future Episodes & Games: HOMEBREW, IMAGIC & ACTIVISION PATCH CHALLENGES
  6. As reported by Polygon, Tastemakers is releasing a new Arcade1Up series of 4 foot tall home arcade machines for just $399 each. Set to come out this fall, the only catch is that these 3/4 scale arcade machines have to be self assembled, although Tastemakers is promising that the process is a simple one. The Centipede headline cabinet also comes with Breakout, Millipede, and Missile Command, and features a trackball, which is good for everything but Breakout, which really needs a spinner. The Asteroids Deluxe headline cabinet also comes with Asteroids, Major Havoc, and Tempest, and features the classic Asteroids-style button configuration, as well as a spinner, which is needed for both Tempest and Major Havoc. The Capcom machine appears to just have Street Fighter 2. All of these cabinets feature a 17" LCD screen. While that rules out a true vector display for the Asteroids Deluxe machine, I have to say that that one is the most appealing to me because of the more authentic controls. Of course, the Centipede machine does have a certain appeal, even if I can't see myself enjoying Breakout with a trackball. Hopefully the Tastemakers custom emulator is up to snuff and the build quality is reasonable considering the amazingly low price.
  7. My Atari 2600 Light Sixer Goes B&W When Tapped or slightly moved. Sometimes, if I toggle the B&W/Color switch, the color comes, back. Other times it doesn't. Sometimes will go to color if I toggle the switch from color to B&W, indicating that it seems to be more something loose/failing on the PCB rather than the toggle switches themselves. Any suggestions at what I should be looking at first? Thank you.
  8. OK, I tested Google Group Meeting with some folks and I'm looking to use it for our local Maker's and Electronics meetings here in Central Tx (if you are in the area DM me for details to join). the nice thing about Google Meeting is it's FREE for extended hours for lots of people. Zoom maxs out at 40 mins. on it's free (yes, I'm cheap). ANYWAY, how would an Atariage MONTHLY Atari Google meeting be with everyone? Say it starts about 11am on a Saturday so Europeans and Americans can both attend (sorry to any Australians). What Saturday would be good to not conflict with all the other meetings that you all might be attending? Also, does everyone want to limit it to just the Atari 8-bit or open it up to all Atari? Plus, any other thoughts about such a meeting you might have. Comment below. thx, HLO
  9. I just added US Games' "Name This Game" to my collection and it has me a bit puzzled. History First off history. Somebody came up with the idea for this game in 1982 and tried to offer it to Parker Bros. who had the video game rights for the 1975 film "Jaws". They lost the license and eventually it was programmed by somebody else and it got picked up by US Games. Without knowing what the game is, that "Jaws" bit is a little strange isn't it? Yeah, so the premise of the game itself is you are a diver who is defending a treasure from a giant octopus and a shark. That's really it. Over and over and over again. I'll be the first to admit, I'm not really sure how different the original idea was from what was created, but if it wasn't that different...how, exactly, is this a "Jaws" game? The main villain is the octopus. The thing is humongous. Takes up damn near the whole screen. So why the name? Why do we have a game about shooting an octopus and a shark to defend a treasure given the bizarre moniker of "Name This Game"? Well, we don't. It's actually called "Name This Game and Win $10,000". The Contest US Games' could not come up with a suitable title for this thing. Not really sure why, but according to Digital Press is apparently it had something to do with not being able to use the phrase "The Deep". I'm going to guess this was to not get into copyright issues over the name of the 1977 film "The Deep". If I may side bar for just a second, why not just go get the video game license for that then? Honestly. Why not? They already did that for the "Towering Inferno" and that did...ok I guess? I'm just saying the idea must have been floating around. Anyway...moving off the sidebar, the marketing department then had this brilliant idea of holding a contest to name this thing. The winner would get, all together now, $10,000 dollars! If anyone is curious, that would be roughly $27,000 today. That is a pretty significant chunk of change for a lesser known video game publisher to be throwing around. Luckily they had all that Quaker Oats money to throw around since they were owned by them. Yeah, that cereal company with the man in the hat...it was a weird time to be in video games is my point. So yeah, all you had to do was send in your form with your address and your title and send it in...as long as it adhered to the content guidelines. YOU BETTER NOT USE THE WORDS 'THE' OR 'DEEP' JOHNNY! All of this can be seen here: http://www.atarimania.com/game-atari-2600-vcs-name-this-game_7637.html The Game With No Name So we have this great contest attached to a mediocre game, not a bad game mind you, but decent. What could possibly go wrong? Well, how about an industry ending crash. Yeah, probably not the thing you want to have happen when you just released a game with a 10,000 dollar prize attached to it. This game came out in 1982 and the contest was supposed to be held at the end of April in 1983. This was the year (1983) when the entire video game industry was brought to its knees in an event called "The Video Game Crash of 1983" and a TON of companies were shuttered as a result. US Games was one of those. I'm guessing this probably had something to do with the fact that Quaker Oats wasn't all that happy that their video game subsidiary was losing money. Don't know that for sure, but that would be my guess. At this point I'd like to say that the contest was held, and little Tammy Jenkins from Germfask, MI won the $10,000 with her title "Miss Jenkins Party With the Shark and Octopus" which she used to go to college and made her family very proud. But I can't say that. No. I can't it because before the contest could be held US Games bit the dust and left "Name This Game" without a real name. Aftermath So what happened? Well, nothing. Not really anyway. Apparently the game was release in Europe as "Octopus" in 1983 after the release of the US version. Digital Press did hold a contest in 1994 (without the $10,000 prize I would assume) and the winning title was "Going Under" which not only described the game, but US Games as well. Way to rub it in. You can read more here:http://www.digitpress.com/video-game-guide/?mode=GameInfo&gameid=24144 But yeah, that really is all that happened as far as I can tell. Its a story of yet ANOTHER highly ambitious contest (Swordquest anyone?) that couldn't be completed because the video game bubble burst and crushed everybody's hopes and dreams. Well, that was sad, but this isn't over yet. My Last Question In my reading about this game, I couldn't seem to find what the final outcome of this contest was going to be for the company itself. In those rules up there it had to be a name that could actually be used as far as copyright goes. To me that says they would have actually named the game with the winning entry. My question is, would US Games have actually paid the expense and taken the time to design new manuals and labels to reflect this name change? I feel like they would have had to. What would the point have been otherwise? Just to sell more copies of a mediocre, generic game with a shark and an octopus? Actually yeah. It was probably that.
  10. Hello guys! I need your help Atari 800, ATARI 800XL/600XL owners! If you guys own a caliber I urgently need to know which size in millimeters (or even better in keycaps unit 1U) the following keys: ATARI 800: - CONTROL key (to my measurements using pictures found on internet) 1.5U - LSHIFT key 1.75U as well as the RSHIFT - FUNCTION KEYS (Select, Start...) 1.5U - CLR SET TAB key 1.5U - RETURN key 1.5U ATARI 800XL - CONTROL key 2.0U - LSHIFT key 2.25U - RSHIFT key 2.0U - CAPS LOWR key 1.25U - RETURN key 1.75U - ESC key 1.25U - FUNCTION KEYS are spaced as 1U keysize. The only correct keyboard I can check is the Atari 130XE style... In attachment the PDF layouts of those keycaps (used by MaxKeyboard) and the keysize in keycap units. Please help me, Gianluca atari-800-xl-style-maxkeyboard.pdf atari-xe-style-maxkeyboard.pdf
  11. I've recently discovered these posters were a thing when I bought six of them on eBay and did research to discover there are a total of 10 of them, meaning I now really want the last four. I'm looking to buy the ones for Warlords, Centipede, Missile Command, and Star Raiders. I'd like them to to be in like new condition, preferred if tags still attached. Heres photos of the ones I have already and how I'm framing them-
  12. Announcing the Australian Lynx Club Shirts! The artwork has been totally recreated by Grazi, she did an amazing job again. This is just a pre-order, so please repond with how many shirts you want and what size (small, medium, large, XL, or XXL). I will ask for money after I have shirts in hand and ready to ship. Shirts will be $17 each and shipping is gonna be $9 priority(USA). Australian Lynx Club Shirt Orders so far: Small: Medium: Large: TrekMD x2, nyandeyanen XL: Machine, sramirez2008, retrogmr x2, Rick Dangerous, joeatari1 XXL: darriba, thefred Also: In case you missed the other lynx shirt we did, I have a few left.
  13. Cyberball 2072 by Atari from 1989 on the Midway Arcade Classics 2 collection for PS2. I like how there are so many plays but just 1 action button, that's classic Atari but this was a later arcade game. Great music and gameplay in this one.
  14. Though I've posted about my channel and videos before, I figured keeping a central place in one thread would make more since. While I have done more videos than I will likely ever post in here, I thought it would be good to start off with my 40th official video for my channel and to start off April right. I present my unboxing and game play review for the Neo Games home-brew release of the limited boxed edition of Spies in the Night for the Atari 2600! Enjoy and thank you for watching!
  15. Hello, I have a used PAT 9000 that I am ready to sell. I figured I would put it here first before ebay or Craigslist. It was tested and working back in the late 1990s (by Dunis in Portland, OR), but has sat unused for years. It powers up, but I have no way to test it. The XY monitor was tested back then and was not working - diagnosed as a flyback issue. It comes with a mess of plugs, the PAT 9000 manual, some assorted game manuals, and at least 2 Ampliphone deflection boards - untested, condition unknown. Everything is being sold AS-IS. DM me with your best offer. Sorry, I can't ship this - way too heavy! I live in the San Jose, CA area. Own a unique piece of Atari history!! https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/1-tqG-7dPjIVDedUjWnIIDimyQfmEnBJM
  16. Hello everyone! First of all let me introduce a new, small company, called "Retro Venture". Our main goals are new accessories & new games for the whole range of Atari computers and consoles - made with love by the community for the community! Here is our first video spot: We bring back the good memories of the 80s & 90s! We are pleased to present you our first official product! This is the anti-dust cover designed for the Atari Jaguar console. Not only is it very aesthetic (looks like glass) it is also resistant to cracks, fractures and UV radiation. The Jaguar has never looked so beautiful! The biggest problem associated with the external port for the cartridge goes down in history. The cover also has port cutouts for JoyPads, as well as I/O on the back of the console. Thanks to this, there is no need for disconnecting the console, and the Jaguar itself looks EXTREMELY attractive! In addition, we took care with the design of the box that protects the lid from eventual damage, it is simply impossible. For this reason, the box can also serve as an additional Jaguar packaging (the console fits easily together with the cover - of course without the power supply). There's also a small surprise inside the box with every order! LONG LIVE THE JAGUAR! Price: 35 euro We would like to inform everyone interested that shipping abroad is 14 euros. Please add this amount to the price of the product you want. Make a transfer to the following PayPal account: [email protected] If possible please use the friends and family payment method (it'll save paying commission, that's friendly request, not mandatory). Please send your home address information and the item(s) you are purchasing as a message in the same PayPal transaction. Thanks for your interest. Discounts are available on bulk or multiple orders, email for a price. OFFICIAL RETRO VENTURE PROFILE - CLICK ME !
  17. An essay on how the colonial influences on David Crane’s “Pitfall!” affected it and the platformers that followed. https://rjb.report/pitfalls-of-colonization image is licensed under CC 2.0
  18. Why do 16-bit light guns look so ridiculous? SNES Super Scope: Sega Menacer: Compared to these 8-bit offerings: Famicom Revolver: NES Gray Zapper: NES Orange Zapper: SMS Light Phaser: Atari XG-1: I mean, I can understand that in the 90s, video game and toy makers were pressured to make guns look unrealistic as possible, but come on, the Super Scope and Menacer just look absolutely ridiculous. Even later gen systems like the PS1 Namco Guncon look normal in comparison. What's worse, with all the modular detachable pieces that can get lost over the years, it's nearly impossible to find one complete.
  19. The Atari Lynx 1-UP from: starforcepi.wordpress.com What’s the greatest handheld of the 1980s and 1990s? Why, the 16-bit arcade juggernaut named Atari Lynx, of course! I was a kid when the original Lynx 1 came out for us here in the old country in 1990, and was blown away. The Game Boy was a monochrome moron in comparison, and the Game Gear was all about converting Mega Drive and Master System games to pocket version – the Lynx, with its hardware-driven zooming and distortion of sprites, was going for Arcade experiences. BOOYA! Sadly, as with everthing Atari, this too turned to dust. BUT, fast-forward to 2018 and look at the love for this loveable giant! So much so, that McWill, a name you must’ve heard of by now, released one of the most impressive upgrades for a system I’ve ever seen – LCD replacement for the waning washed-out Lynx screen, with VGA output. The VGA output was a great addition, but the way I’ve seen people utilize it online seemed rather silly to me; you would have to use the Lynx as the controller when playing on the VGA. No sir, I don’t like it. So I decided to use the spacious room behind the screen to build an interface to: 1) securely place the Lynx on a stand; 2) output VGA; 3) connect a standard DB9 compatible controller (Mega Drive, Master System, Atari). It’s a tight squeeze, but the VGA, Controller port and Stand all fit neatly in the small 3x4cm interface window. This was an absolute pleasure to build, everything went smooth and simple, all the measurements were direct hits, hell even the stand only took me 10 minutes to design (8 hours to print, but hey). So let’s see it in full VGA action: It’s perhaps the best handheld to consolize: the GameGear has most games on Master System or Mega Drive, the GameBoy looks rather silly and clunky on a monitor, and TurboExpress is pointless, because it’s a 1-to-1 conversion of the actual console. I am glad I did it, I hope you will too, and stop placing those ugly connectors on the top of your handheld. Building the Lynx 1-UPI bought a pristine looking junked Lynx 1 for 20 euros – seemed a good place to start, let’s see if we can bring it alive! I replaced all the capacitors, power input socket, MOSFET, but finally it was the two 3906 transistors that were the issue. In order to do these replacements, you need a fine-point soldering iron and some tweezers, but everything on the board is quite spacious, so there’s no mistaking what’s what. This part is cheap: 7 dollars on console5.com. They have links and tutorials on that site, very complete. I also bought the McWill for 120 dollars, I was gonna do this mod regardless if this particular system was junked. So far everything together cost me ~150 dollars. After bringing the console back to live, it was time for McWillification! I followed the 1 page diagram that came with it, but it’s a little information dense, so I followed the following video instead: This worked better than I could have ever imagined, I know everyone says they’re gobsmacked when they see the difference, but it really is very true – I get why it’s such an expensive mod now. I was gonna leave it with that, honestly that’s just everything one could ever want from an upgrade… but, of course, me being the way I am, things escalated. You see, the mod came with the VGA socket, and I saw how people were placing these at the top of their handhelds, and you know what – it looked ugly. I want the facade of the handheld to be untouched. While I was adding the McWill mod I noticed the enormous space left behind the screen, which is when I had the idea: make the Lynx into a hybrid, with the connector ports at the back with a stand for console gaming via VGA, and all the ports hidden behing a minimal cover during handheld gaming. I first ordered DB9 sockets for a controller, and placed this together with the VGA socket on the inside of the battery cover. I made a little window in the battery cover, 3D printed a frame and cover for the ports, and there we have our interface. For the controller ports I had to solder 6 wires on the button pads of the Lynx PCB. Luckily most of these have soldered extension traces, so you can avoid blocking the normal button-to-pad press, but for two I had to solder directly onto the pad: be mindfull to be as flat as possible. Then we wire up the VGA socket to the pads on the McWill screen, this is shown in the accompanied diagram of the screen. We then place the DB9 and VGA socket in the space between the batteries, where the little light tube of the old screen sat (ignore the loose wires, they’re from the battery input, I cut them for ease of access). In the left picture, top connector is the VGA socket you can see running to the McWill screen. The lower connector go to the front of the PCB to the button pads. When assembled the VGA socket is lower, and DB9 is upper. Next to these I added screw connectors, so that I may fix the system to a stand, as shown in the next pictures: Unlike the Nintendo Snack Pack, this was a joy to make. I did it to unwind and relax, I didn’t want to build something from the ground up, but this just gave enough inspiration to just slightly 1-up it. The Lynx Stand and little VGA cover in particular really clean the mod up nicely, and makes this thing into a fully consolized system. I must admit though, I’ve been mostly playing it with the stand and controller via the McWill screen, not via VGA, but hey, it’s there. Finally, it all cost me a substantial 150 euro, but it was worth it. The Atari Lynx is a very strange and powerful handheld, spanning 7 years with 72 games, it’s still enjoying new homebrew releases every year, with a small but dedicated following. I’m very happy to be one of them. Upgrades: Full capacitor replacement MOSFET replacement 3906 Transistor replacement Power input socket replacement McWill Screen upgrade VGA output port DB9 input port Custom interface window & stand
  20. I have this very rare, complete OSCAR device for sale. The box is open however the device itself and some of the contents are still in their factory shrink wrap. Please see the pictures I attached 8/6/2020 in the thread below. This is an interesting device that was designed to work with a special magazine and could optically scan the programs/software in the magazine printed in barcode form. The company failed and there were only a few (or one) issue of the magazine. Take a look at the pictures I posted on the linked topic (scroll to the bottom of page1, see my Aug 6, 2020 post). Also the topic tells a lot more about the device. Message me if you would be interested in purchasing this unique bit of 8bit history. Thanks!!
  21. Honestly it doesn't HAVE to be working, as long as it's in fair cosmetic condition. Looking for the XMM801 locally as there is no way I'll ever be paying shipping, especially with how little money I have being a jobless college student at the moment. I'm in no rush either, just thought I'd put this post out there incase anyone happened to be nearby with one!
  22. Hey guys I’m looking for the following titles for the Atari 2600: -Out of Control -River Patrol -Mangia (ntsc) -X-man (ntsc) -Off Your Rocker (with label intact) -Any Xante cartridge -Coke wins/Pepsi invaders -Atari 2600 Prototypes (Lab Loaners) -Activision demo/sample carts Im looking for cart only for each title (if you have the manual with the cart, I’d be interested in that too), so please message me if you have any of them and would be willing to sell. Thank you!
  23. I am seeking a few of the earliest Atari 8bit ANALOG magazines to finish my collection. If You have any extras of issues 3 and 7 let me know. Thanks!!
  24. ***UPDATE: Download the ENTIRE NTSC & PAL Atari 7800 set HERE. Original Post follows... This is relatively important, especially for our game developers I'm hoping this helps and makes color conversion from one format to another a bit easier. Download both raw color palettes here: There is no bias and both palettes share the following same attributes per standard Atari 7800 configuration without any display device influence (And no 'warm-up' factor). This is system cold/factory default settings as follows: Contrast = 0.05 Brightness = 0.00 Color = 0.22 Phase = 25.7 Colorburst = 180 degrees This NTSC palette and the ones to follow are brand new and never released before due to error on my part, but this PAL palette has been released before under a different name, again due to errors on my part. Again, they are both the 'raw' ones for their respective regions. Your input (especially PAL users as I am in NTSC land) is greatly appreciated for this thread. Thank You, Robert
  25. Hi all, As I am lacking some inspiration (and time) to write for Atariteca these days, I was wondering if there are still some other blogs exclusively on Atari computers or consoles running out there. The only one that comes to my mind is Bill Lange's excellent Atari 8-bits Ads: https://atari8bitads.blogspot.com/ - Y -
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