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Checkers (Atari VCS, Jul 1980, Activision) “Chess is like looking out over a vast open ocean; checkers is like looking into a bottomless well.” -Marion Tinsley Marion Tinsley was the World Champion of Checkers from 1950 to 1990. Other people only gained the title if Tinsley didn't show up to play. He won the World Championship whenever he chose to play for it. Jonathan Schaeffer was a computer scientist. He lead the team that developed Chinook. Chinook is the computer program that plays checkers. Their story is a great story which I would love to tell you. Instead, I'm going to tell you the short and crappy version of that story. Chinook almost beat Tinsley in 1992. In 1994 they played against each other again. They played six games to a draw. Tinsley had to stop playing because he was in a lot of pain. The pain was cancer. He died a few months later. Chinook never defeated Tinsley. Tinsley's death inspired Schaeffer. Schaeffer's computer program "solved" Checkers in 2007. What that means is that the computer knows all the ways to play the game so that it either wins or draws. A much better version of that story can be found here: https://www.theatlantic.com/technology/archive/2017/07/marion-tinsley-checkers/534111/ I don't really have anything to say about Activision Checkers. It's a good version of Checkers. It's easy to play. The graphics look fine. There are a total of four games on the cart. Three games against the computer. (Novice, Intermediate, Expert) The Novice game takes about 15 minutes. The Expert game can take about 2 hours because the computer takes longer to think. The Intermediate game takes more time to play than the Novice game and less time to play than the Expert game. I bet you already knew that part about the Intermediate game. The fourth game is a two-player game. For the two-player game I needed to find another person. Every person I tried to drag into my house ran away from me. I decided I would cheat by having another computer program choose my moves for me. I chose the website MathIsFun, which has a Checkers game. I put Activision Checkers on Novice. I put MathIsFun Checkers on Hard. Activision Checkers won. Apparently that website is for kids, so don't be impressed. You might have thought I was going to have Chinook play against Activision Checkers. That would have been smart, but I didn't think of it until just now. Chinook is here: https://webdocs.cs.ualberta.ca/~chinook/play/ Let me know if you win.
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Hi, I would like to share with you a cool Atari project. You can play the Atari games using your hands as motion controls. No joystick needed. Yes , yes : your hands instead of a joystick I captured and converted the hand poses to electric signals “running” through the Atari ports, so your hands control the game. Pretty amazing. This project is based on a computer vision and Python coding, running on a Raspberry PI device with a camera. It is a DIY project . Here are links for the components: ************************************ Raspberry Pi 4 : https://amzn.to/38grxde I am using one of these desktop cameras in my projects: Logitech C270 , Simple and basic camera : https://amzn.to/37CAPjO or Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920 , Which is a very good camera : https://amzn.to/3rM1Lof DB9 connector : https://amzn.to/3OwVgiT 7 Inch HDMI TFT screen for the PI : https://amzn.to/3L67mxg The link for the project video: https://youtu.be/vJO6nMwUBXw Enjoy Eran Feit
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Hi, I would like to share with you a cool Atari project. You can play the Atari games using your hands as motion controls. No joystick needed. Yes , yes : your hands instead of a joystick I captured and converted the hand poses to electric signals “running” through the Atari ports, so your hands control the game. Pretty amazing. This project is based on a computer vision and Python coding, running on a Raspberry PI device with a camera. It is a DIY project . Here are links for the components: ************************************ Raspberry Pi 4 : https://amzn.to/38grxde I am using one of these desktop cameras in my projects: Logitech C270 , Simple and basic camera : https://amzn.to/37CAPjO or Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920 , Which is a very good camera : https://amzn.to/3rM1Lof DB9 connector : https://amzn.to/3OwVgiT 7 Inch HDMI TFT screen for the PI : https://amzn.to/3L67mxg The link for the project video: https://youtu.be/vJO6nMwUBXw Enjoy Eran Feit #Atari2600 #Atari #Python #OpenCV
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Hello, i am trying to split the screen with 2 colors (3/4 blue and 1/4 white), and I used the asm command in batari basic, what I am doing wrong? Pls help me. I keep getting 2 moving colors (ignore the color values). main asm lda #$5C LDX #96 START sta WSYNC dex bne START LDX #96 sta COLUBK START1 STA WSYNC dex bne START1 LDA #$A9 STA COLUBK end goto main
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Hi, This is a cool project that enables you to play the Atari 2600 tennis using a real racket. Yes , yes , a real one ! (no joystick) The project was done using Python and OpenCV. This project can be run both : on Windows with emulator , and on original Atari 2600 console using Raspberry Pi Pretty cool The link for the video is : https://youtu.be/vbd0ShdMqYE Stay tuned for my next video that will teach with a full tutorial how to get this result Enjoy Eran
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My Atari is having some color issues. Now green is displayed as blue, blue is displayed as red, and yellow is displayed as white. Does anyone know how to fix this? Thanks!
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Hi, This is a cool project of controlling Atari 2600 Defender game using the hands pose as a virtual joystick The project demonstrate how can we replace the traditional joystick with our hand and fingers The code estimate if the second finger is open or close for simulating “Fire” button , and the directions of the finger In order to simulate : up, down, left and right You can watch the enjoyable result here : https://youtu.be/iQGDvn3bZrI The project is based on OpenCV , Mediapipe and Python Eran
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Hi, This is a cool project of controlling Atari 2600 Defender game using the hands pose as a virtual joystick The project demonstrate how can we replace the traditional joystick with our hand and fingers The code estimate if the second finger is open or close for simulating “Fire” button , and the directions of the finger In order to simulate : up, down, left and right You can watch the enjoyable result here : https://youtu.be/iQGDvn3bZrI The project is based on OpenCV , Mediapipe and Python Eran
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Hi, I would like to share with you my project of fixing a non working Atari 2600 with a new interesting direction. I brought this Atari 2600 back to life within an Arduino and a Raspberry PI connected to the original board It is based of capturing and replacing the electric signals of the Atari 2600 buttons and Joystick through the Atari board to an Arduino micro, and then the signals are activated by the Raspberry PI and Atari emulator I kept all the changes encapsulated in the original Atari 2600 in order to maintain the external functionality of the buttons and joysticks. Watch the video here : https://youtu.be/EgE_EKp0-gA Cool !! You are most welcome to share it Eran
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Hi, I would like to share with you my project of fixing a non working Atari 2600 with a new interesting direction. I brought this Atari 2600 back to life within an Arduino and a Raspberry PI connected to the original board It is based of capturing and replacing the electric signals of the Atari 2600 buttons and Joystick through the Atari board to an Arduino micro, and then the signals are activated by the Raspberry PI and Atari emulator I kept all the changes encapsulated in the original Atari 2600 in order to maintain the external functionality of the buttons and joysticks. Watch the video here : https://youtu.be/EgE_EKp0-gA Cool !! You are most welcome to share it Eran
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Hello. I have a loose copy of Qbert’s Qubes (Atari 2600) available for trade. It has been tested and works. Mainly looking to trade it for other rare Atari 2600 games, NES games, and original Gameboy games, but I am open to partial trades too. Pics of the cart are attached below. Please PM if interested. Thank you!
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Hello friends, As I posted in AA FB Forum, this topic deserves your attention here as well: I'm also quoting @lazzeri:
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Hi. Any suggestions how to fix the “noisy” image ? Please notice it is modded to composite Thanks Eran
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So I got a light sixer atari 2600 for christmas, its already been modded by the seller so theres no channel switch and it just plugs straight in to the tv via the coaxial port. Granted with a little tuning I have it working just fine on my tv (except for the screen rolling. I have tried a signal booster (the kind you buy from the shop Ive not risked cracking open the console yet as I'm still learning the ins and outs of it) as i read that could be the issue but no change. The power lead is just a standard 9v AC plug and my tv is a Panasonic Viera TX-L32G20B 32" 720p HD LCD TV. I was told it should be able to run on HDTVs just fine which to be fair it does except for the screen rolling. Any advice as to fixing this would be great. Thanks.
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Atari 7800 Discovery Thanks for letting me join, I know absolutely zilch about the Atari Consoles. I had an Atari 800XL once upon a time and absolutely loved it, so many great memories. So I went on a bit of a discovery with the Atari 7800 the other day and it really impressed me. Left me thinking “what if”. I thought I’d share it here, it’s nothing special, but just wanted to share my thoughts on what I think of this console and its games. Anyways here’s my video, I played every game using RetroArch and built this vid from it. https://youtu.be/TogzSRUVEMc Thx
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Presenting, the latest entry in the most exciting genre for your Atari 2600.. solitaire card games.. Cribbage Squares Solitaire! I've been posting about it in the Atari 2600 Programming forum but figured I'd let people over here know. Link to the other thread: Calling this a Beta release, hope you'll check it out and definitely report any bugs you find. Summary rules: You're placing cards in a 4 x 4 grid, to form 8 cribbage hands horizontally and vertically. There's a 17th "starter" space on the fifth row, this card is shared among each of the 8 hands formed by the grid. Try to place the cards to score as many points as possible. Cribbage hands score: 2 points for every combination of cards that adds up to 15. (Aces are 1, face cards are 10, all other cards are face value) 2 points for every pair. (This means three of a kind is 6 points, because there are three distinct "pairs"; similarly 4-of-a-kind is 12 points) 1 point for every card in a run of three or more. (Aces are low only) So: A-2-3 is 3 points. A-2-3-4 is 4 points. A-2-3-4-5 is 5 points. Easy enough. But there's also the hands like A-2-2-3. This is 6 points for the two distinct runs of three (and of course also scores two for the pair). Similarly A-2-2-2-3 is 9 points for the runs (and additionally scores 6 for the 3-of-a-kind). I'll leave 4-5-5-6-6 to the reader. Don't forget your 15s! 4 points for a flush - if every card in a hand except the starter is of the same suit, score 4. If the starter is also the same suit, score 1 extra point for 5 total. 1 point for nobs (AKA "the right jack"). If you hand contains the Jack of the same suit as the Starter card, score one point. Thanks! Cribbage_Squares_beta1.bin
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Hello, I'm new here on atariage, because I need some advice. I have bought in 2008 from Atari2600.com 2 Original Boulder Dash cartridges for the Atari 5200. Yellow one with serial: 080 of 100 Red one with serial: 085 of 100 I have only opened the shippingbox they came in and never the games them self, so they are new and in the seal. So I have the Original shippingbox and bill and email proof form JC Atari2600.com. They are Original FSS release by Atari2600.com see year 2006 (https://firststarsoftware.com/boulderdash-htm/) I only want to know what they are worth today? Many thanks!
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i have been having problems with batari basic for a couple years so i've made no games because i cannot compile so i decided to make a very atari like game on a site called scratch https://scratch.mit.edu/projects/236564770/#player i was wondering if anyone wants to code this program for atari and send me the bin file and if possible you could add a score board and a lives.
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Hi all! Last month I saw the following ad on eBay: I thought the appeal of this kit for homebrew development was very limited: No bankswitching/mapper (only 2K games or 4K games with further modifications on the board) It required messing around with UV lamps, programmers, etc Required some knowledge of electronics Buying the parts separately would probably be less expensive Not possible to ship as a product to customers It would be probably easier and faster to use one of the existing USB/SD carts to test on a real hardware. This did make me think though that I had never seen a development kit for the 2600 which would allow homebrewers without knowledge of electronics to self publish their games. If a mapper is required, then that knowledge need goes up real fast. As in Europe we have very limited offers of good homebrew games available (most of them are from the USA and shipping quickly becomes a problem), I thought about making this my next project. The idea is to have blank carts (populated with all required components but without any game image in them) and a simple to use cable and PC software which would allow the user to create a cart ready to be shipped to customers as well as test games in a real atari. Is this something that would interest the homebrew community? Here are some requirements I have come up with: The final product must cost under 10€ (populated cart PCB) All components must be easy to find. Preference should be given to components still in production Must be usable by people with no experience in electronics No soldering Must support mappers (the ones used by batari Basic at a minimum, as a lot of people seem to use bB) No physical alterations to select the desired mapper (or no mapper) Must fit in a standard Atari cartridge case Components should be SMD to keep production cost as low as possible All comments will be appreciated!! Cheers.
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I just bought a used Atari 2600 system. It only came with one game, so I cannot troubleshoot the game itself being defective. I also cannot seem to find a relevant thread that has the same issues. I have cleaned all the contacts and switching the power on normally results in a diagonal white line that scrolls across the screen. Every once and a while I get colored bars (assuming something altered PF0-PF2 or the player sprites.) Sometimes I get a blank black screen, so it is sending a signal to the TV. Very rarely do I get a screen that could almost look like Combat playfield (but it definitely isn’t). Also, should Combat be missing a trace on the front (Pin 8/Pin 5? Or maybe the backside is pins 1-12, so pin17/pin20). What is the next thing to troubleshoot with these symptoms? Do I have a bad TIA or RIOT? Do I need to do a recap sooner rather than later to prevent any exploding capacitors?
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I Got this atari 2600 jr at ebay 6 mouths ago for 30 dollars with just console itself because i already had a power supply for it and since then i play it almost once or twice a week and until today when i opened the console to just clean the dust and i open the rf shield and suddenly I accidentally scratch the motherboard with RF Shield once well that when after i test it. and i was done cleaning everything i put it back together Except for the RF shielding and start testing it and i play river raid and it was working fine next i played gorf and this was when my 2600 jr started acting weird because when i die the screen started to have a weird effect and i open the console and start to realize that i did accidentally scratched the motherboard with the RF Shield and the more 2600 games I put the jr more of that screen issue happen and But im not sure if its the. Cracks or something else but this really sucks because i was already thinking about modding my 2600 jr to have composite but i dont think can't do anything at this moment but i have a coleco gemini as a backup. Console but i don't want to mod my gemini and i toke pictures just if you want to see the problem but anyways is there way how to fix this problem
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Hello Everyone! For Sale: One Activision RiverRaid II loose cart for the Atari 2600 VCS. The pictures show the cart in pretty good condition. The two streaks on the front label are not raised and I cannot seem to remove them with wiping. I have not tried any other method. The cartridge has been wiped clean, contacts cleaned thoroughly, and tested! The price is $25, shipping included for the continental United States. I don't ship internationally but will ship to Alaska, Hawaii, US territories, and Canada (yes I know Canada is not the US but hey, I LOVE CANADA!) As a rule I warrantee all sales for 30 days after purchase. I've sold a bit on ebay (NitroRetro) so you can check my ratings there, since I have no reputation here as a relatively new AtariAge paying member. PM me if you are interested! Best, Evan PS: This is my first "for sale" post so apologies if I'm doing something wrong. Suggestions for improvement of what I'm doing are welcome!
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Hi all, I have created the following post yesterday: Someone just told me that I should have created it in this subforum. I don't want to duplicate the post but I have also not found how to move the post here. Any suggestions? Also, if you can comment on the bankswitch schemes you currently use in your programs and any experience you can share on how to implement a bankswitch controller on a 8bit Microchip PIC will be much appreciated. Cheers!
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Hi everybody, Talking to a homebrewer here at AtariAge the topic of large ROMs (128KB+) came up. One part of the bankswitching schemes which always put me off is the amount of memory used by routing overhead and the hotspots. Yes, I know that in the great scheme of things that may end up being negligible, but the whole point of using bankswiting is to have more memory available and large ROMs require a larger number of hotspots So I was thinking if a trade off with RAM could be acceptable, why not have a hotspot in RAM and bankswitch according to the value saved in that hotspot. The idea is that a write to that specific address would trigger the bankswitch. A read to that address would not do anything as the bank is already selected. Using a full byte in RAM, the cart could have 1MB of ROM available (256 * 4096). Coding would be as simple as loading the accumulator with the desired bank number and storing it into the hotspot address in RAM. With one additional RAM byte, the BS routine could route a call to 256 distinct subroutines in the new bank (see diagram below). And a relatively simple one-size-fits-all solution could be created by using another RAM byte and a single dispatch sub-routine: Does anything like this exist already? Would it make sense to use it for very large ROMs?
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First off I want to thank everyone who has helped back and spread the message about this project. When the initial goal was set, we didn't anticipate the larger number of higher reward level backers. After reviewing our finances and updating our projections based on the current backing from the kickstarter, we will be moving forward with Plan B. We are going to move to a standard Pre-order through the CollectorVision website. By doing the direct pre-order through the website, we will be able to maintain the original timelines for the project. This will also allow us to accept Paypal, which a lot of people have asked for and prevented them from backing the kickstarter. The original timelines from the kickstarter are the same with a March timeframe for Early Access and a June/July timeframe for the rest. The pre-order is available now at: https://collectorvision.com/shop/colecovision/collectorvision-phoenix/ https://collectorvisionphoenix.com should also take you there as well If you have any questions feel free to ask. Thanks, Brian
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