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Hello! I've been holding out on posting here in hopes the customer support team at Atari got back to me, but it's almost been a month so... Yeah. I was given a 2600+ for Christmas and the unit was dead out of the box. I tried multiple power bricks, multiple USB cables, multiple HDMI cables And multiple TVs to cover all my bases. Flip the switch and nothing happens. The Atari logo on the front doesn't even light up. I was referred here from someone on Twitter who said Ben from Plaion could help? I'm ready with any photos or videos you might need.
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As the title says, my 2600+ arrived broken. No damage to the shipping box, any of the games that I ordered, or the console's box. It's obvious that the person packaging everything dropped it on the corner and then packaged it up. I received it last Monday (12/11) and immediately contacted customer service. I received an automated email with a support ticket number, a link to a customer support log in, and a promise that I would be contacted by a customer support agent within 1-2 business days. It has now been over a week without hearing from anyone. The customer support log in link they sent in the email is broken and forwards me to the main Atari website. I've received a response from whoever monitors their social media replying to my Facebook messenger plea but they only say the customer service is "busier than usual". This was supposed to be a Christmas gift for me and my family. This is my first Atari purchase. I love the games, I love the console, but this experience is wearing on me. Any help or direction is greatly appreciated.
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atari2600 Atari 2600 (woody) won't work! Riot Chip gets hot!
DatsunDeer posted a topic in Atari 2600
I bought an Atari 2600 from a yard sale with a buncha games for about 20 bucks. When I hooked it up to my TV, the screen was all black except for red and blue vertical lines on either side of the screen. If I kept restarting the console I could sometimes get vertical bars with several different colors and a humming noise. I replaced the RIOT chip with one I ordered from eBay that claimed to be working hoping that would fix it but i got the same results. The RIOT chip will heat up the longer the console is on and eventually get so hot it's uncomfortable to touch. Any ideas on what to do? -
Hi all. I've had this original Intellivision 2609 for years that has been broken since I got it. I have picked it up, troubleshooted it, put it back on a shelf, and repeated this cycle countless times and still don't know what's wrong let alone how to fix it. Just wanted to see if anyone knew something I didn't to point me in the right direction. Symptoms: does not display anything other than static with some random colors here and there, unable to make out any picture, though static clearly changes compared to when system is off Troubleshooting methods used so far: - did the obvious to clean contacts and carts, adjusted contacts, make sure it's set for the right channel on the TV, pressed reset after starting console, nothing - used two different RF cables with simple coax adapter, no NES RF adapter here since that seems to be a common thing people try to use - resocketed chips on motherboard, nothing - tested continuity on power supply, main ribbon cable from power supply to motherboard, and from where ribbon cable meets with board to the rest of the board circuit, all are good - scanned for channels with console plugged in and powered on, colors did change somewhat as channels scanned, maybe some very weak signal is being received? may be placebo on my part since nothing is recognizable - cleaned power switch with WD40, nothing - checked inside of RF modulator and attempted to readjust contact point with cable incase plugging in RF cable over and over misplaced it somehow, nothing I haven't tested voltages on the power supply yet as I need to learn how to test voltages in the first place, but I was hoping that there was something I missed before I had to do that. Based on what I see on the TV when it's on, I feel like it's some kind of RF modulator failure. Any guesses? I can provide pictures if needed. Thanks! -
I have a 2600 that won't come in on my TV. I have the RF plugged into an RF>coax adapter and into the (CRT) TV and when I turn it on the TV static goes wild but no picture. So I know it's getting power. I cleaned the game. I tried both channels 2 and 3 and even did a channel search but still nothing. Any suggestions? Could it be a bad adapter? I know the TV is fine because I just used an NES plugged with RF earlier.
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Hi guys its been a while since i posted on the forums however, My sound (monitor output sound, don't have rf box) is not working. I did a couple measurements with the multimeter on the POKEY and it seems that it does have voltage output at pin 37 (read that on forum where someone had the same audio problem with their 130xe) Personally, I have a hunch that it's not the POKEY chip itself rather it's a capacitor or resistor in the sound circuit since I'm pretty sure POKEY handles I/O and keyboard scanning (both of which work tested the disk drive with emulation with aspeQt/SIO2PC, however cassette playback does not work.) So I guess my question is should I just skip trying to get a donor POKEY and attempt to troubleshoot the sound circuit (potentially just shotgunning the entire circuit and replacing it all until it works)? I would gladly accept any advice from anyone! Thank you! I have the schematic of all the resistor/capacitor values here http://www.jsobola.atari8.info/derelit/xefsm.pdf
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I got this old Colecovision from Creig’s list which is pretty dirt, controlle is fine, everything works perfect as it should except the joystick which only works if I push it to the right SOMETIMES if I’m playing a game and push the controller to the left hard enough it might make my character move slightly to the left, the other directions don’t work at all Here’s what the inside looks like
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Hey guys, so this time I messed up bad, no excuses here. Simply how can I fix this. Also will the product pictured below which is an conductive epoxy help? The game is Zelda for NES.
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Is it possible to fasten this female into shielding like it originally was? It seems to have slipped out everytime I put in a coaxial. Otherwise it is fine. I have no clue how it originally was.
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Hi everyone, I'm new here but I am a long time Atari collector and have always wanted to join this forum. anyways, I have an issue on my hands in the form of a beat up 4-port 5200 I just picked up. I got this thing for 5$, it came with the controllers and console, that's it. I don't have any more 5200s so I had to buy a switch box and a power supply. I just got all that in today and tested it, and I'm getting nothing, no sound, and no video. I already measured the supply and it looks good and the switch box seems to be outputting the correct voltage and has a reassuring spark. I heard something about different 5200s using different power supplies, I bought one that says 9.3 VDC (I hope that's ok.) I just don't know what to test next or where to go, the red led doesn't even light up when I turn it on. the switch is really gummy but I don't know which points to jump to bypass it. please help with my 5200, thanks!
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I’m having a weird issue with my Genesis model 2 where only controller port two doesn’t work. On one game specifically “Thomas the tank engine and friends”,I don’t get any controller action from either side. I’ve desoldered and soldered them back on a couple times but to no avail. Here are some picks hopefully someone can help me bring this puppy back to life.
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so my Atari 2600 4 switch woody's left joysick up stopped working I tried multiple joysticks and the up direction doesn't work anymore. I have the pictures of the board what should I do? Now that I have the board out what would you do? I can solder but I don't know where to start. Also should I clean the board and how should I clean it up? -
Hey guys. I've seen a lot of good help on this forum that I've used to help me diagnose my Atari 2600 4-switch that has not worked ever since I tried to install a widely used composite mod. (Kit Link Here) I installed it using an instructable (Instructable Link Here) I followed all instructions including removing q202, r209, r222, and c205, aaaaand... nothing it didn't work. (note: when I say nothing, I mean the TV says no signal.) I suspected bad connections but that wasn't it. I tried re-soldering the old components and that did something for a while but then it stopped. Next I thought that it wasn't getting enough power so I checked the power supply and 5v reg. Both were just fine except the 5v Reg had 2 of it's pins crossed. After uncrossing them I got some video for about two seconds and then it quit. (see attached video) I thought it was the chips now so I replaced all 3 (TIA, RIOT, and CPU) and this put me back to the same old no signal screen. I tried the old chips on a working system (w/o composite mod) and they gave a black screen. Not sure what to do at this point. Nothing is abnormally hot. Maybe my somewhat noob soldering skills maybe be a problem Cheers, kalgran Glitching.mp4
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Hello guys! This is my first post and English is not my first language, so please forgive any mistakes. So a few days ago I found this little guy in a storage room filled with broken pcbs and other junk and i decided to try and fix it. First i noticed that the top part of the power switch was missing so i closed the circuit by putting jumpers on the switch, then plugged in a 9v adapter and tried hooking it up to a CRT to see if it was working...nothing came up so the first thing i checked was the 7805 regulator which was dead. I replaced the 7805 and i made a rough RF to AV mod (just video. no sound) from a schematic i found online. I plugged it in (AV) and this time it worked perfectly, even when i connected it through RF, it had a bunch of built in games on it, it was great! But sadly after 10 minutes or so, the picture went crazy all of a sudden with flashing colors of all kinds of patterns (see attached photos). Also when i plug it to the RF connector the picture is blue-ish with static and there is a high piched sound in the background. I really hope i didn't fry it or something, because i wanted to make a case for it and give it to my brother as a birthday present... Any ideas what's wrong with it, or how to troubleshoot it? I'm not really good on electronics but i know a thing or two... I also attached the AV mod i i did (not my photo). Thanks in advance!
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Hi there guys, so after talking to some of my friends about the problems with my 1040 STe, we wernt able to figure out whats wrong, so they suggested that I post on here and see if anybody can help me. Basically, almost every game I try to load either gives me a black screen after the main screen or it shows bombs or goes red and freezes. Ive only owned my owned my Atari 1040 STe for about 5 month and Ive only gotten some games for it in the last 2 weeks, so I dont have much of history with it. Here are a couple videos I uploaded to youtube that can probably show you better than I can describe. https://youtu.be/Nj1wB4KnbUg https://youtu.be/76pGk_AkMAI Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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Hello all, I'd like to begin by saying that I am by no means a negligent/careless owner. I was never rough with my Jag. However, despite this, it stopped working a while back for reasons currently beyond me. The last few times I'd played it, it had serious controller issues; on Cybermorph, the T-Griffon wouldn't stop jetting forward and moving upward, while on Tempest 2K, I couldn't stop shooting. Not long after these incidents, my Jag failed entirely, and won't even power on. All I know is that these consoles are very sensitive to electrical mishaps (shorts, overloads, etc.), and that something to do with the controller inputs failed/shorted out, and this somehow eventually led to total failure. Yet if that is the case, wouldn't that mean that one of my controllers is defective and causes shorts? I've no soldering skills, and even less of a clue on how to find the replacement parts necessary for this system, so the chances of me fixing this are slim. For the meantime, I've purchased a new Jag system (I shouldn't have to explain how expensive they've become), so I want to ensure that this doesn't happen again. The main things I want to know are: *What caused this? *Is this (cheaply) fixable? *What can prevent this? Sorry about the long post, but as a long-time Atari fan, I just want to ensure the fun doesn't stop here. Please feel free to ask me anything you'd like to know.
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Beware! Mega Man Legacy Collection on Switch Has BROKEN DLC
MegaManFan posted a blog entry in MegaManFan's Blog
The package for Mega Man Legacy Collection 1+2 has broken DLC right out of the box. -
Over the the past year, we've all read multiple threads on common hardware issues, faults and breakdowns. In starting this thread it's hoped that we can all have a "clearing house" of sorts for common solutions. This way if someone develops issues in the future, they'll know where to come to quickly pinpoint and diagnose the issue and possibly get an instant solution. For easy search, the title should list the PROBLEM, and the DEVICE involved. If possible please include photos, because as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words and may help someone confirm and diagnose their issue. -
I have two Atari 2600s. One with a wood panel, and one without. The one with the wood panel works beautifully with my 80's CRT TV, and the black paneled one doesn't work at all with the same setup. I busted it open to take a look at the board. When plugging it in, I saw a little spark which suggested to me that power is indeed going in correctly. I took a multimeter and measured around a bit. 15 V going in. Everything seemed to stop at the on switch. No matter how much I switched on or off, the voltage went from 15 V to 0 V right across that switch. Is it unusual for an Atari switch to not work? There's also some corrosion around the board which I am going to clean off with isopropyl alcohol. Does anyone have any next steps for me to try? I would love to get this working! Some photos are attached.
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I have a 7800 that has the cartridge guide tabs broken off so the dust covers don't open on 2600 games. Years ago, I inserted some paper clip wires into the plastic while the metal was hot. I'd like to fix this machine decently. Anyone know of a good source for these?
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What do you do with broken stuff? I get most consoles repaired these days, but I have a few controllers I really like (a six button w/turbo genesis controller, multiple 2600 controller, and a translucent green N64 controller) that I just can't figure out what to do with. I also have an extra Apple G3 laptop that I should sell for parts or repair. As I see it we have a few options with any given item. -Hoard until parts become available and you can fix item -Fix item -Sell for parts -Toss I'm torn. I hate throwing away something thinking it could be fixed, but also don't like having broken crap taking up space in my collection. What do you do for various items?
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What do you think they are? I was reflecting on the price of Sega CD games the other day and wondered to myself "how many working Sega CD's are even left?" It's sort of a problem, the reliability of some optical drive based consoles. I bet there will still be working heavy sixers by the time the last Sega CD model 1 has died... What are your top "fragile" systems to note and what is it that makes them this way?
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Hi; Today I received a shipment of imagic carts for my 7800 and found that none of them would fit well enough to run. I researched a bit on the forums to find a solution. The given solution was i.e: Remove external housing Find "cart cup" clip corners with scissors I did this to one of the corners and tested before proceeding any further to limit any damage. It worked for most of the games, but one, cosmic ark. So, I clipped another corner of the "cup" and when I went to test it the console wouldn't turn on!!! As far as I can tell (have not removed shield) there is no pieces lose. I ordered a Atari jr. in the mean time so I could still play most of my library, but I would really like to be able to fix the console; It ran beautifully before I mutilated it (no sticky buttons, no game problems, etc.) My Question; Any suggestions to what may be the problem? Any similar experiences? Thanks, - Justin
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I've got an older Odyssey 2 (the kind with the beige switchbox that it needs), and I'm having video trouble. I've attached a quick video of what it does. It looks like it switches on for a split second, turns off, repeat..? I had a buddy go over and check the power supply, check the traces on the board, and still no difference. We also tried tapping the RF directly off the internal RF convertor, bypassing the proprietary cable that comes off the back. I'm hoping this is a problem someone else has encountered.
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Hi All, I'm hoping for some help as I'm stuck. So I got a Vectrex that came to me dead (does not power on). After short diagnostic it turns out that main transformer was dead and i have replaced it with AC 9v-0-9v 1A (it is smaller than original in size). To my joy, Vectrex came back to live and game was on. After about 5 minutes vectors got scrambled and screen went off (screaming Nooooo internally). Console still turns on and still plays controls & sound are working. I have not left console on for more than 5 min continuously and i have not seen any white dot appearing. I have started googling to check what's wrong. Going with Troubleshooting Guide and this blog http://int03.co.uk/blog/2016/01/31/vectrex-repair-black-screen-no-vector/,I have checked -13V on power board but that is not the case. That power circuit is just fine. Going forward on J204 i got -4.96V, GND, 5.02V, -12.99V so that's within range. Power input to power board on EP106 and EP104 is 10VAC which i thought is too high but on this forum http://vectorgaming.proboards.com/thread/1021/tech-repairing-vectrex-monitor, jasonbar have original transformer with higher than 8.6VAC, again i think that's OK. Last thing in torubleshooting guide is to check T401 and T503. Not sure which those actually are. I think those are hidden in the small metal box on the power board, does anybody had problem with those ? how to check them. Also i should check for voltage on CRT PCB pins 2,3,5 and 6 (socket for the lamp?). Is CRT PCB one that is attached to the tube ? If so should i use ground on power board for test ? Can i disconnect that board from tube for test measurements ? Lastly i know that somebody will tell me to do re-cap on power board but again, caps are Jamicon ones and those i have checked are in great condition. Visually non of them show any sings of leak or bloating on top. I would expect at least white dot on screen if some caps are bad. I did not removed caps form the board for check but most of them can be checked in board and readings are good. Non where below the stated value but slightly above. Those who are chained obviously is hard to check without taking them out but general trend is that caps are fine in my opinion. If i have to i will replace them but would prefer to understand the fault and not just blindly replace all caps. Help will be highly appreciated. I'm a hobbyist and keen to get this working. Thanks.
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