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Found 18 results

  1. After many trial and errors I would like to share so far best Cable I did for myself. It is DIN5 --> SCART, for Stock XE models or XL with chroma/luma mod for s-video standard. Detail of READY prompt looks nice with signals going to grid exactly as it should and appear like dots on grid, basically pixels. So called DOUBLE or better INDIVIDUALLY shielded cable is a must. I did Cable for s-video 4 din standard and picture was good, but not so great as this SCART. Finished Cable length is 1.8M. Cable is wired into spirals around individual cores. Stock ATARI 800XE with this Cable Next step will be S.X.E to get rid of the some signal impurity.
  2. Summary The Aquarius Printer is a 40 column thermal printer that uses a one-way serial connection. It was marketed for the Mattel Aquarius computer and Intellivision's ECS add-on. Its character set is fixed to match the Aquarius computer's character set. Each character is printed as a pattern of 7x10 dots. It has a 3-way switch on the back to control which parts of the Aquarius character set it can print. The switch settings are labelled as Text, Mixed, and Graphics. Contrary to what the Graphics switch setting would typically imply, there is no known way to print arbitrary pixel / bitmap graphics. The printer has a 40 byte buffer for printable characters. When transmitting data, the printer will not print until either the buffer is full, or until a newline or formfeed byte is received. On the front, it has a Power button and a Paper advance button. The Paper advance button does not advance the paper by a fixed amount; instead it advances the paper for as long as the button is pressed. Unlike many printers of its era and later, it does not have a "test mode" that can be entered by pressing and holding a button while simultaneously turning the printer on. While its interface uses standard RS-232 voltages and signaling, its connectors are non-standard, using a 3.5mm mono audio jack and a 2.5mm mono audio jack. An adapter cable is necessary to connect to a computer. Wiring diagrams are available for building adapter cables for connecting to a PC using a 9-pin serial port or to the Intellivision ECS. Software needs to be set to 1200 baud, 8-bit, no parity, 2 stop bits, and use hardware flow control that is either RTS-CTS and/or DTR-DSR hardware flow control depending on the adapter cable's wiring. Internally, it uses the Olivetti PU-1840 print mechanism and thus can use paper from other printers that use the same print mechanism (example: Alphacom Sprinter 40 and VP42). The Olivetti PU-1840 is controlled by a Hitachi HD6801V0P microcontroller. Output Modes Text Mode Only bytes in the ASCII ranges are printable (hexadecimal bytes 20 through 7E) as well as byte 7F. All other bytes do nothing with the following 3 exceptions: 0A, 0D, and 0C. The hexadecimal bytes 0A and 0D are newlines. A pair of these bytes is considered 1 complete newline. Thus 1 complete newline can be any of the following pairs: 0D 0A, 0A 0D, 0A 0A, or 0D 0D. The printer advances the paper one line on the first byte and drops the 2nd byte, as long as the 2nd byte is a 0A or 0D. If other values are inserted between the 2 bytes of a complete newline, the printer will advance the paper 1 newline, print the inserted characters, and then advance the paper a 2nd time (ex: 0D 20 0D). There is an issue where if too many newlines are printed followed immediately by printable data, the printable data is lost. It is presumed that the CTS signal back to the PC is not being processed properly. The hexadecimal byte 0C is formfeed. It advances the paper to next 1 page boundary, with 1 page being approximately 59 lines. Previously printed data is considered part of the page. For example, if 30 lines of printable bytes were sent followed by a 0C, the paper would be advanced 29 lines. There is an issue where if data is transmitted too soon, i.e. before the formfeed has finished, that data may be incorrectly printed in the middle of the formfeed or may be lost. Graphics Mode All characters are printable, based on the Aquarius computer's character set. However, after power up or a short delay between printing sessions, the data needs to be preceded by 0A 0D before the graphics data can be sent. The first 2 bytes of 0A 0D are not printed, but do cause a newline to occur. Any 0A or 0D that appears after the initial 0A 0D pair are printable characters and are not newlines. However, data can NOT be continuously streamed to the printer indefinitely. Somewhere between 880 to 920 bytes, the printer stops responding. It is recommended that long streams of data be separated into smaller chunks with short delays. Mixed Mode The same as Graphics Mode except that 0A and 0D are newlines. These bytes behave the same as they do in Text Mode. Unlike Graphics Mode, there is no need to prepend the printable characters with 0A 0D. There is an issue where, if too many newlines are printed followed immediately by data, the data is lost. It is presumed that the CTS signal back to the PC is not being processed properly or that the printer needs a brief delay after asserting CTS and receiving more bytes. Construction Major components: Hitachi HD6801V0P CPU: Hitachi's version of a Motorola 6801 (enhanced instructions, 4KB ROM and 128 bytes RAM on-chip, serial, GPIO) Olivetti PU-1840 2P Printer mechanism: 280 horizontal dots, thermal paper Hitachi HA17555: a 555 timer chip, presumed to control the baud rate The plastic case has 4 parts: the top shell, bottom shell, paper compartment cover, and the back panel. The back panel contains the serial connectors and the Text/Mixed/Graphics switch. It appears the back panel and the internal space next to it was intended to be replaceable to support other interfaces (Centronics? DE-9 serial? Commodore 64?). The top shell front internally has space for 2 unused punch-outs in the plastic, each with mounting points in an internal metal bracket. Potentially, these could support addition buttons and/or lights. Wiring Adapters / Cables Here are schematics for building either a wiring adapter to connect the Aquarius printer directly to a PC's 9-pin serial port or to the Intellivision ECS. Note that similar schematics elsewhere don't allow a direct connection to a PC since they require additional adapters like null-modem cables. Aquarius Printer Adapter Cables v1.pdf
  3. Reposting a recent update from Sean Kelly via FB group "Vectrex Fans Unite!" about new and existing products on his site. Sean's products are top quality. "Sean Kelly News on my Vectrex website. Stephen Gros designed a really cool Vecaves overlay and allowed me to print it in the same fashion as all of my other overlays - the same size, shape and thickness as the originals. It is now available on my website. Also, I have finally gone through the first batch of Vectrex controller cables and consequently covered the costs of the molds required to make the cable. As a result, I have dropped the cost of the cable by 50% to $10 each with discounts still available for larger quantities. www.vectrexmulti.com" Vectrex Overlays: http://www.vectrexmulti.com/order2.html#!/Vectrex-Overlays/c/42142833 Vectrex Repair Parts: http://www.vectrexmulti.com/order2.html#!/Vectrex-Repair-Parts/c/129701104
  4. Morning all, I’m very close to getting my original Magnavox Odyssey console back to life – I’ve Frankenstein’d together a working power solution from an Atari 2600 after-market power adapter, with a travel adapter and a 3.5mm-to-2.5mm tip adapter. I also got a multicard from @Boojakascha and @Mikebloke (thanks guys ), and got a handle for it from Laserbear The only remaining problem is the video cable. I mentioned previously in this post that original Odyssey RF cables are rarely listed for standalone eBay sales, and looking for other Odyssey pong consoles (100, 200 etc) with Magnavox’s weird proprietary RF connector hasn’t brought me any luck either. So I think the most practical solution would be to solder a new video cable to the back of the console’s main board, and that this cable will probably need to be at least 7 feet long. Question 1 (RF or composite?): In this video (around the 54min20sec mark) That Tim Guy from YouTube, soldered video and ground directly to the console's motherboard but it's not clear (to me anyway) exactly what cable he's using - in the most recent comment at the top of his comments section, he refers to the cable as carrying a composite video signal. And I guess in theory it's possible that the console could maybe generate composite video on the board, and the original external RF box turned it back to RF? But I'm a little bit confused by this as 1) I had always assumed a stock 1972 Odyssey only outputted RF, 2) I thought you could need something like @Boojakascha's mod board to output composite, and 3) later in the video, he appears to de-modulate the signal through a VCR to get to the CRT, which seems to suggest that the console itself is outputting RF. It's not going to make a huge difference to my setup - the Odyssey doesn't output sound, so either way, I'm going to be running a single cable with either an RCA or a coax connector. I have a well-shielded 7 foot RF video coaxial cable from Blue Jeans Cables (Belden 1505A) that I'm not using at the moment - does anyone know if this would be a good cable to use? If so, I could remove one of the connectors, and solder it to the two points on the board, as per the video. Question 2 (Safety) The video from That Tim Guy is quite long, but the relevant part where he displays the cable solution is only from 52m50s to 54m40s I don't know very much about soldering, and this would be the first mod I've tried myself, but I'm a little bit apprehensive because it seems like this should be more complicated than what's presented in the video (which shows that it's as simple as soldering two wires). It seems to me that there should usually be a little more to it than this. If he is pulling the video signal in this way and the youtube video isn't skipping over anything, does anyone have any opinion on whether wiring it directly in this way is creating a circuit that is safe, and not going to damage the console?
  5. Maybe someone at sometime will find this info useful. The Model III and 4 has a single 50 position I/O bus port for expansion. A company called Alpha Products used to sell a cable that allowed you to daisy chain multiple peripherals on that port. Unfortunately those haven't been available since the mid 80s. The port is a 50 position card edge. 50 position ribbon cable and female connectors are easily sourced. Amazon has the best price on the female connectors; less than $20 for 5. Anything with a 50 position card edge is next to impossible to find these days. Also each "finger" on the board needs to connect from top on one side to bottom on the other. The Radio Shack Hi-Res board came with one as a pass through. I recently found a source for dirt cheap prototype trans boards that can be modified in about 1 minute. https://www.circuitspecialists.com/pc622.html Syntax PC-622. These are 62 position and already have the reverse side connected. A cutting wheel on a Dremel will easily make it into a 50 position. You'll also want to bevel the edge a bit with a flat file. My port currently has the Hi-Res board (looped from inside like factory), FreHD (hard drive) and an Orchestra 90 all getting along together. I also have a mouse interface for CAD which I'll try as soon as I get a RS mouse.
  6. So I completed the G7400 RGB addition mod as described here. It was surprisingly simple and took me about an hour to finish. I now need to build the 8 pin DIN to SCART cable. I am not familiar with building these, but I can't imagine it would be too difficult. So I hope someone here could give me some tips to help me complete it. Here is DIN Connector Pinout (according to the website at the link above) 1: RGB status (75 Ohm, 3 V) 2: Ground (0 V) 3: Blue (75 Ohm, 0.7 Vtt) 4: Composite Video (CVBS) (75 Ohm, 1 Vtt) 5: Red (75 Ohm, 0.7 Vtt) 6: Status CVBS (VCR) (10 kOhm, 12 V) 7: Sound 8: Green (75 Ohm, 0.7 Vtt) Here are my questions: 1) Do I add a 10 kOhm resistor to scart pin 6 and 75 Ohm resistors to scart pins 1, 3, 4, 5, and 8? 2) Does the symbol on scart pin17 (see fig) mean that I just connect it to the metal connector (pin 21)? 3) Are there any other components that I should be adding to the cable? Any help or additional info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  7. Well, I've done some more experimenting and have managed to find a way to attach wired PS3 and Xbox 360 controllers to the 5200 to play the games that offer digital controls (as opposed to the analog-only games like Missile Command). This required a number of video game controller adapters/cables and a USB power supply. Here's how it's done: The adapters needed to get the wired PS3 controllers compatible with the Atari 5200 are as follows: 1) a 15 pin PC Gameport controller to 15 pin Atari 5200 adapter. These are obtained by contacting Atariage member, bohoki. He makes these for under $20 (shipped within the U.S.). 2) An adapter that converts Atari/Amiga/Sega controllers with a 9 pin connector to a 15 pin PC gameport. These are available on Ebay from "Ikonsgr74" and can be obtained for under $20 (shipped anywhere in the world). 3) A Tototek Joypad Convertor version MD (for Playstation controller compatibility on the Megadrive/Sega Genesis). These adapters are under $30. 4) A Brook Game Controller Super Convertor for adapting a PS3/PS4 controller to a PS2 console. These can be had for under $40. 5) a USB splitter cable ($12 or less). 6) a powersupply with a USB cord (5Volts) OR a USB Hub with connected power supply. To get the Xbox 360 controllers compatible with the 5200, you'll need one additional adapter. It is the Mayflash Universal Adapter for Xbox360/PS3/PS2/PC USB. These may be found at Amazon. Current price for these on Amazon is $30, but that is subject to change. Mayflash adapters tend to become scarce and go up in price. If any of you have interest in a video presentation on this (as well as a quick explanation of how to fix a potentiometer controller problem) here's the link for that:
  8. Just curious what I could use or if I could get a replacement cord for an intellivision 1 and possibly if someone wants to help how to connect the cable? I haven't even opened it up yet to take a look. The system is out of the city at the moment but wouldn't mind some advice. Thanks.
  9. Hello all, I'd like to begin by saying that I am by no means a negligent/careless owner. I was never rough with my Jag. However, despite this, it stopped working a while back for reasons currently beyond me. The last few times I'd played it, it had serious controller issues; on Cybermorph, the T-Griffon wouldn't stop jetting forward and moving upward, while on Tempest 2K, I couldn't stop shooting. Not long after these incidents, my Jag failed entirely, and won't even power on. All I know is that these consoles are very sensitive to electrical mishaps (shorts, overloads, etc.), and that something to do with the controller inputs failed/shorted out, and this somehow eventually led to total failure. Yet if that is the case, wouldn't that mean that one of my controllers is defective and causes shorts? I've no soldering skills, and even less of a clue on how to find the replacement parts necessary for this system, so the chances of me fixing this are slim. For the meantime, I've purchased a new Jag system (I shouldn't have to explain how expensive they've become), so I want to ensure that this doesn't happen again. The main things I want to know are: *What caused this? *Is this (cheaply) fixable? *What can prevent this? Sorry about the long post, but as a long-time Atari fan, I just want to ensure the fun doesn't stop here. Please feel free to ask me anything you'd like to know.
  10. I recently finished a project where I had to gut these from new aftermarket controllers.These function with the Nintendo entertainment system. These would serve as direct replacement in an old worn out NES controller and work great. I have about 19 of them. PM me if you want all or one of them.
  11. Hello all - Since jumping into this thing and doing little projects here and there, I have suffered some setbacks, and enjoyed a few surprising successes. But, this latest project I've embarked upon has given me quite a few ups and downs, with an emphasis on the down. I have a Wico Keypad that was only registering a few buttons. I swapped a cable and confirmed it's the cable. Despite urgings from the intelligence center of my brain, I had to jump into getting to the bottom of it and solving my problem {without consulting the pros here first, of course}. How hard could it be to get some new wires from keypad box to the tip of a new donor cable? Well, long story short, I failed. I've attached a photo. My question is: Does anyone have a simple explanation of where each of the 15 colored wires in that line within the keypad need to be when they reach the DB15 tip of the new cable? I'll gladly expand if anyone can join me in solving this dilemma {and even hope to be gratefully embarrassed if/when someone shows me one of those simple pinout diagrams like for converting O2 sticks to Atari, etc.} But, so far I'm not seeing it. NOW, I have seen that page that someone explains the matrix array set-up of these controllers, and with that and following the lines on the boards, and some great mental strain etc. I could see solving this puzzle some day.... AND, as you may be able to see from the picture, I've got all the wires tipped with male prongs, and a female to female gender changer adapter on it's way. It sure would be nice {and I would be more than quite grateful} if, when that gender changer adapter arrives, I could just plug those male prongs 1,2,3....15 right into their respective spots at the DB15 tip and begin to feel I've brought something good back into the world again. Thanks for reading, helping, etc. A final note {since you've stayed on this far}: Wico, in a cruel twist {and causing all my pain here} embedded their wires in some blackened amber encasement at the tip of the cable, making tracking the wires nearly impossible {I was able to track like 3 of them after a "careful" destruction of the tip}. Also, the damage was done, but it didn't help that they included 2 orange/white wires into the mix. Thanks again.
  12. Ok, I don't need any help or anything. I just wanted to post about a weird issue I ran into today. I had a Joystick that wasn't working, so I decided to do some troubleshooting. The first thing I noticed when I took it apart, was that the wires were a different color than I expected. I wrote down the colors and where they went, then disconnected them so I could do some testing. I first checked the PCB with my multimeter. It checked out fine. So, I started checking the cable. I was able to determine that pins 2,3,4 and 6 were fine. I couldn't get anything on pins 1 and 8. I looked the cable over and could see no issues at all. There were no crimps, kinks, cuts or other visible damage. I did everything I could think of to try and get a reading on the non-working pins. After about 20 minutes I gave up and decided to cut the cable and test the wires and the cable (plug) end. I cut it about 5 inches from the connector and tested it. Everything worked. I then tested the rest of the cable and still no readings on 1 and 8. I threw away the cable, but kept the end, just in case I could find a use for it later on. I know the wires are thin, but I never expected to find two that were broken, without some type of damage on the outside of the cable. It just seemed odd to me. Anyway, that's all I wanted to say.
  13. From the album: Intellivision RGB Mod

    Schematic for 8 pin Mini-DIN to SCART.
  14. I have 2 - db9 male to db25 male, 850 to Hayes compatible modem cables. The pins are connected different on each. I'm thinking I know which one is wired correctly but need someone to help me feel confident about my decision. These are the pin connections 850 R1: Gray cable Black cable Pin# Pin# Pin# 1 20 6 2 8 8 3 2 2 4 3 3 5 7 7 6 6 20 7 4 4 8 5 5 The 6 and 20 pins on the modem side are reversed. Any thoughts?
  15. Hello all! Very, very new to the TI-99/4a. A college friend recently sold me one for $20. After picking up a TI Extended Basic cart, I found myself very interested in learning Basic as a hobby. So, I went on eBay and found a "mint condition new in box" black program recorder. If "new" means missing the manual, missing the cable, and came in a box that reeked of mildew. That's eBay for you. The tape deck itself seems fine, and I cleaned up the cable that leads to the computer. (Cable was definitely coated in mildew... ew... ) I also already had a manual, but there isn't much to it so wasn't worried about that. However this brings me to the topic at hand. C batteries will add up fast. I noticed there is an option for a DC adapter. Anyone know where I could find a compatible DC adapter? Or even an original AC adapter?
  16. Hi all, I've recently ordered a 130XE from the US. I live in France but this kind of machine became recently hard to find. So it was easier and cheaper to buy it in the US. I'll soon receive it, but I have some question regarding the connection: - What kind of power cable do I need to plug it? Does something like that will do the job? http://www.amazon.fr/HQ-P-SUP-32-HQ-Convertisseur-tension-vers/dp/B000MRY5CU Also I'll need to plug to computer, but also the floppy drive, which comes from the same seller. - What's the best way to plug the 130XE on the TV screen? Can I use a Scart cable or a AV composite cable? Or is there a better way? Thanks. Can't wait to receive and play with it!
  17. So I bought an atari 2600 online and got it in the mail today. Hopefully the system itself works. But right now I am having trouble connecting it. My tv has 3 vhf screws(not really screws idk what to call them), one says ANT input, another converter output, and the last AUX Input. It also has 2 UHF screws below that. I have a TV/game/computer switch but it does not have prongs like most, it is only a copper wire sticking out of it. I also have the power cable. So what do I do exactly? =p
  18. I know these cables are "easy" to make... but I'm not so skilled at that sort of stuff.... I've an 850 w/printer cable (no PS) up for trade?? Well... I bought a kit and made a splitter. Looks and works great.
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