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I know that you probably remember Novotrade's infamous port of Castlevania for the Amiga. Well, I just found this homebrew AGA version that shows what it should have been: Granted, I haven't covered the Amiga homebrew scene very much, but kudos to Dante Retro Dev for realizing untapped potential.
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It's a remake of Jim Summer's SLIME game for the Commodore PET 2001. This game works on 8K PET 2001 models. As a result, the menu system was redesigned, there's no sound and the game is only 25 blocks in size. Keys Rotate - Q, W / Fire - Space / Move - 2,4,6,8 / Pause - Return Download Links https://milasoft64.itch.io/slimed-for-commodore-pet-2001 https://www.commodoregames.net/CommodorePET/slimed pet 2001-821.html slimed pet 2001.prg
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I thought this would be appropriate for here:
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I have never owned a C64 before, but just acquired one from my neighbor to evaluate and possibly purchase (Serial # S00067211). I have been getting more and more into retro computer tinkering and modding, and I started blogging about my projects at https://blog.codesurfer.dev I opened the case to test the electrolytic capacitors before powering it up (I also tested the power supply separately), and noticed that all of the ICs are dated 1982 with the possible exception of the PLA, the sticker on it reads "C64 REV 3 8411". Does that mean that the PLA is a 1984 version? Is this a particularly unique/rare version of C64 with collector value, and should I avoid doing any mods on it? A few interesting things happened when I originally powered this unit up. Firstly, even with the power switch in the "OFF" position, when I connected the power supply to the computer and then plugged the power supply into the outlet, the "POWER" LED came on! Secondly, my monitor registered a signal (the "no signal" prompt went away) but it was the "black screen" that I have read so much about. Needless to say this was bittersweet, I was hoping to see something come up on the screen, but figured, "now I can learn & blog about this C64 while troubleshooting it". I downloaded a copy of the C64 Service Manual from The Internet Archive, and checking the board schematic saw that the POWER LED should only turn on when the main +5VDC is available. The schematic showed that the power switch interrupts the +5VDC coming from the power brick, and one leg of the 9VAC supplying the other voltages on the board. So I opened it up again, but this time removed the board from the bottom case half and tested the DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) power switch with my multimeter. The switch checked out just fine, so before re-assembling it I connected the POWER LED and then the power brick. This time the LED did not come on until I turned on the power switch! Seeing that I decided to connect the monitor using my DIY Atari 800 A/V cable (The 5 pin DIN pinouts of the C64 and Atari 800 are similar enough to make this possible) and I got a clean yet monochrome screen!!! Has anyone else experienced something like this? I am thinking about looking for short circuits under the RF shielding before re-assembly. Any advice from the forum is greatly appreciated.
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In Skyfox for the Apple II, if you press Ctrl-G after you select your level a Space Invaders game will load up for you to play. This type of thing is a little more common with modern games I imagine because space isn't as big of a concern. But this got me thinking, what other hidden games are there for any of the classic computers? I'm guessing this wasn't real common, but there must be some others. I know there were a few games in Commodore 64 loaders, but what I'm more interested in are the ones that are truly hidden.
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----------- EDIT: Thanks for all the sales so far, guys. I'm hoping to move a few more things in larger lots, so for the next while I'm running sale: Spend at least $100 (any combination of games, without shipping) and get 30% off. Any amount over between $100 and $200 gets 40% off. Any amount over $200 gets 50% off!!! e.g. you pick out $210 worth of games. You'll get $30 off for the first $100, $40 for the next $100, and $5 for the final $10, and have to only pay $135! Again, shipping costs are always extra of course. ----------- After a year long hiatus, I'm back to selling off much of my boxed 8-bit collection (as well as some Atari ST, Amiga, and classic PC games). At least the pandemic gave me some time to organize. Instead of listing everything here, I put together a Google Sites page with lots of pictures and suggested prices. https://sites.google.com/view/game-sale-list/home A few things: 1) Prices are in US dollars. They tend to be on the higher side for individual titles, but that's because I take into account the hassle of shipping out individual games. I'm always open to offers, but especially willing to move on price for multiple titles. 2) Shipping is extra. I'm in Canada, so shipping within Canada is preferred and likely cheaper too. Shipping to the US is usually not too bad, but shipping to Europe is expensive - be warned. 3) Payment by Paypal Gift/Friends&Family only please (or, if you're in Canada, e-transfer works too) 4) I will update the site as titles sell. I'll try to answer quickly to questions, but life is busy and it may be a day or so before I can reply. Hopefully less, but just so you know. Thanks for looking. Hoping to find some good new homes for these titles.
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Hi everyone. I'm putting together vintage computer and console related items which I hope to sell. Please click below to see the current items I'm listing. Items For Sale I'll be adding more as I test, and package the items. Thanks, John
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Hello to all, In a video on the YouTube channel of "8-bit show and tell" Glitch World In Commodore 64 Ninja - YouTube I discovered a floppy disk version of Ninja (Mastertronics) where the Atari and Commodore versions are on the same side of the disk. Floppy disks with Atari on one side and Commodore on the other side are very common. But I don't understand at all how to fit two versions for two very different computers on the same side of a floppy disk... Can someone explain to me how this is possible? I don't know anything about the Commodore floppy disk format, but I doubt that it is organized like the Atari one. Apart from the fact that they share the physical format 5"1/4 and 48 TPI, the rest must be very different, right? Or is it a common formatting that can be read on both? I'm really curious to know the answer. Thanks in advance,
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I'm looking to add a Commodore 1541-II drive to my collection. I have an extra Commodore 1571 floppy drive in good, working condition that I would like to trade for a 1541-II drive in good working condition. Here are some pictures of my 1571 drive: I've been using the drive without issue. The performance test completes successfully. The alignment test shows good alignment as well. I'd want to trade with someone who's willing to carefully pack and protect the drive for shipping. If you happen to be near the metro Atlanta area, I could meet-up somewhere to swap to avoid shipping.
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In one of the recent videos from the 8-bit Guy, he showcased a case that enclosed a Mini-Pet. It made me wonder if something like this would be a viable product considering that the Mini-Pet is something that is being actively sold and retro-computing seems to becoming more and more mainstream. Anyway, just a thought and enjoy the video if you haven't seen it yet
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New stuff up for sale! Seller mayhem_uk
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Hey guys, as you may well know, the fantastic Reset64 http://reset.cbm8bit.com/ threw a Commodore 64 4k game coding competition in which 37 entries were creating, and put forth for enjoyment, and scrutiny! Our Podcast, Pixel Gaiden, just released an episode in which we played and reviewed every single one! (unofficially of course) Please take time to check out the games themselves, as well as give our show a listen. You can find it wherever you currently listen to podcasts, or check the link below. Of course we would love it if you could like and subscribe as well! Thanks in advance! https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9waXhlbGdhaWRlbi5wb2RiZWFuLmNvbS9mZWVkLnhtbA/episode/cGl4ZWxnYWlkZW4ucG9kYmVhbi5jb20vMTYwZGNmYmItMzY1NS01M2NjLWFiOGUtZDE1OTdkMWFlOTc5 You can try all of the games yourself by going here... https://reset64-magazine.itch.io/2020-reset64-4kb-craptastic-game-compo
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After many questions and requests we've decided to introduce new coding compo for the 8 bit Atari: "Illegal is legal". To take part in the compo your entry needs to meet some requirements: - they may only use illegal opcodes, - they should switch OFF the OS in the very beginning, - they should work on every Atari machine located within 320 km from Licheń Stary, - they don't use addresses such as $d200-1f, $d301, $d640-$d65f, $d740-$d75f etc. [polish text: grab the teddy bear xxl]
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Today I was brave and after viewing tons of safety videos and obtaining 'overkill' protection (funny word for working on CRTs), I recapped my entire Commodore 1702 monitor. It sat for over a year but I still had gloves and boots, discharged, etc. I have more to do, but before I plug in for smoke tests, I hope to share pics and discuss some potential weak points. When I got the 1702 in a lot sale, it 'worked' but I heard some scary periodic power arcing and turned it off. There was a small burning smell and I waited about a year, thinking something fried. In that time, I learned the basic mechanics of a CRT, and opened my 1702 today. After recapping, my paper plate of old caps had leaking liquid but it is hard to determine which one(s) were the culprits. I hope all caps being replaced will fix any previous problems. I air sprayed the mainboard and all daughter boards and then washed all with Electronics cleaner. I will likely isoprop any white residue the cleaner left and hope to get this back up and running. *Interestingly, Commodore made an error on the silkscreen on some 1702s at capacitor C101 (like mine) as documented by Console5: https://console5.com/store/commodore-1702-cap-kit.html and their wiki: https://console5.com/wiki/Commodore_1702 where I printed my checklist and maps from. All PCBs look like the business end is only on the bottom. Questions: Should I replace anything other than the caps? Voltage regulators? What caused the arcing before? bad caps? The power switch is solid. Should I RGB mod? Replace the power cord to one with a ground? I will do a multi-meter continuity test on all fuses. Also, I may have cracked or lifted three traces/pads so advice on my repair plans is appreciated: Mainboard Problems: C201 (10uF 16v)- Negative pad lifting C204 (3.3uF 50v) - Bipolar (BP) lifting on one leg C603 (10uF 50v) - lifting pad Power Board: C905 (100uF 25v) - NOTE the red patch wire is for visual reference and can be desoldered easily. Also, I will not plug it back in the wall until I am certain all is well (and it is sealed up!) In some of these intended fixes, the plan is to use a wire if the path between points may contact unintended places. Otherwise, for a straight shot, I like the remaining clipped capacitor legs. Note I have yet to clip the legs on the spots in question so I have visual aid when finishing. Also, how precise should I consider gauge size when I use such short wire runs? My guess is the power board may matter more in this thinking. I do hope this project will fix the arcing issues (please don't be a tube problem itself), and restore this 1702 to day one original glory!
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Hello friends, I've got a new project that I'm going to be working on and I wanted to get the word out. I am a big fan of the arcade game Gauntlet: ...and who wouldn't be, its big, its beautiful, and its fun for up to 4 players! Hands down, the single best port of this arcade classic is Tengen's Gauntlet IV for the SEGA Genesis/MegaDrive: With a title like Gauntlet IV, one would assume that this is a sequel of some sort, which could never be as good as the original, but that's where you're wrong. Gauntlet IV has 4 modes of play, 1 being a pixel-perfect port of the arcade classic (including 4-player support), then a few other variants with some cool RPG and battle elements. As I recently picked up a MIB complete copy of this game (replacing my previous cartridge only version), I started playing it again, and realized that a Genesis control pad just doesn't do it justice. So with my new found skills at creating arcade-like controllers I had the idea of creating a proper joystick controller to further my enjoyment of this game. After a bit of research regarding the original controls hardware used in the arcade cabinets, I realized that the linchpin to this endeavor would be to source an original Atari logo'ed ball-knob, 8-way leafswitch joystick, like this one (most of these pics "borrowed" from the internet): So for a little while now I've been on the hunt for one of these little beauties on ebay and over at the Arcade Forums. There were a few variants of this general/similar style of stick by Atari, including analog/digital, leafswitch/microswitch, and 4-way/8-way, but I need a very specific model, only used in a handful of Atari arcade games. Most of those on ebay are of the the wrong type (in 1 way or another), beat up pretty bad, or just really high priced. But last night, I was finally able to strike a deal for exactly what I was looking for, the only caveat being, was that the seller was selling a set of (4) of these controllers, not the "single one" that I needed. But we worked out a "decent" per-stick price for the overall package, so now I am patiently waiting for my (4) slightly used Atari logo'ed ball-knob, 8-way leafswitch joysticks. I will basically have 3 options of what to do with the extra 3 joysticks: 1) resell the unneeded 3 joysticks as arcade replacement parts 2) create and keep 4 Gauntlet Edition - VVG Experience Controllers 3) create 4, and sell 2 or 3 Gauntlet Edition - VVG Experience Controllers If I had 3 local friends that played video games with any regularity/proficiency, I would consider option 2, but that's not the case for me unfortunately (my friends suck). If there is interest from anybody here for such a creation (besides me obviously), some combination of options 3 & 1 are possible. If no one has any interest, then option 1 is my best bet. With all that being said, this will basically end up being built as a SEGA Genesis/MegaDrive 3-button arcade stick, with the arcade-correct Gauntlet joystick and pushbuttons. So why would I ever post this here, for this reason: Team Pixelboy's published, MSX conversion of Gauntlet for the ColecoVision, so it technically falls into the ColecoVision realm! Fortunately this port doesn't require the keypad, and with a little bit of wiring trickery by me, I will be able to make what will be a 3-button SEGA Genesis/MegaDrive controller, also work as a 2-button ColecoVision controller for this fine port. And obviously while this controller will be able to be used for any system and/or game that can make use of a SEGA Genesis/MegaDrive 3-button controller, I'm touting that this will be the ultimate controller for the following Gauntlet-esque games: Dandy - the original that started it all as an Atari Program Exchange game, which inspired the Gauntlet arcade franchise: available on: Atari 8-Bit / Commodore 64 / Amstrad CPC Dark Chambers - Atari's "commercial" release of Dandy: available on: Atari 2600 / 8-Bit / 7800 Gauntlet - home port: available on: Amstrad CPC / Atari ST / Commodore 64 / SEGA Master System / ColecoVision Gauntlet II - home port: available on: Amstrad CPC / Atari ST / Commodore 64 Gauntlet III - home game: available on: Amstrad CPC / Atari ST / Commodore 64 Gauntlet IV - home port/game available on: SEGA Genesis/MegaDrive (as noted above) Additionally I believe that it may be possible to to allow this controller to also work with the Nintendo NES ports of Gauntlet and Gauntlet II as well (in addition to all NES games), more info on this to come. So while right now I have no fabulous pictures of a completed example to show off, I'm just looking to see if there is any interest, from anybody here for such a controller. No matter what anybody else thinks/feels regarding this project, I will be building 1 for myself. The main reason I bring this up here, is mainly due to the fact that I had to purchase 4 of the Atari joysticks, to get the 1 that I needed/wanted. As they are fairly expensive and hard to come by, I would hate to re-sell all 3 joysticks, then have one or more people speak up asking to buy this controller (that I wouldn't be able to build). On the other hand if there is no interest here at all for such a thing, I would probably list the joysticks for sale sooner-than-later to recoup their cost. At this point I don't have a firm selling price, or time-frame. I can only estimate that the finished Gauntlet Edition - VVG Experience Contollers would sell for somewhere in the $300-$400 range, and could be ready as soon as late January, or after. So again, I don't need any sort of "firm commitment" or "down-payment" money at this time (and obviously final decision to purchase would be after the 1st one is built so that you could see what it will be like), I'm just checking to see if knowing all of this info, if there is any interest. As I deal with ColecoVision hardware more than anything else, and there is a ColecoVision port of Gauntlet, I thought I would offer the "idea" of these here first before checking Sega/Atari collectors for their interest. Last note, due to the limited availability of the vintage Atari Joysticks, I can't say that any more than these potential 4 could/would ever be made. If a group of buyers "speak" up with interest in this project, and all agreed they would like to see these limited to only 4 total examples ever built, I'd be fine with that too. So just a little food for thought, and I look forward to any thought/comments/feedback. Thanks.
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I am looking for good info on hacking the C64 DTV into a proper working Commodore 64 system. Ten or more years later, a lot of the old links with necessary diagrams, firmware and instructions are dead. I have owned the original joystick model for years and recently found a Hummer Offroad plug and play game in a local thrift. The Hummer game seems like a good candidate to modify, as the game-play itself isn't great and I seem to remember it being a revised version of the original Jeri Ellsworth design. What I am wanting to do, at minimum, is to solder on a ps/2 keyboard port and a serial port to use with a real 1541 floppy drive.
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Doesn't get more retro than this!
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- commodore 64 mini
- c64 mini
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A shrinkydink C64! https://youtu.be/sDoEAI8WGPI
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Well, after a year and a half of starting this group, we have an official SVCGG event happening at Lost Levels arcade in Claremont, CA from 12noon till 8pm. This event will include vintage computers from the 70's, 80's and early 90's from companies such as Commodore, Atari, Apple, Texas Instruments, Tandy, Timex Sinclair and MANY OTHERS. All set for freeplay This event is FREE!! but we appreciate any donations to help our events to continue to grow. If you would like to go into the Arcade, there will be a cover charge. Here is a list of computers that will be present (more will be added) Commodore 64 Commodore 128 Commodore Amiga 1200 Commodore Amiga 500 Atari 800XL Atari ST Atari Falcon Apple ][e TI-99/4a Mattel Aquarius 486 List may be subject to change. We hope you make our first event special and hope to see you there! If you have any equipment you would like to show off at the event, please let us know!! Lost Levels arcade is located at 530 W 1st St, Claremont, CA 91711 See you Oct 5th!! https://www.facebook.com/events/389250568450963/
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From the album: My Collection
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