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Showing results for tags 'component'.
Found 17 results
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In general since pretty much none of my TVs have component, using RGB through my Retrotink works well. -
This adapter was made to breakout the Atari Jaguar’s many video outputs to a more common and easily found set of cables the SNES Cables to allow you to play your classic games in better quality especially compared to the standard RF Audio/Video output. The RF output is very blurry and noisy out from the 90’s that is not a standard supported today. This adapter works great when paired with RGB Scart or HD Retrovision cables and run through a upscaler like the OSSC, RetroTink, or GBS! Features: Fits the back of the Jaguar without obstructing the Serial IO Link (DSP Port) Custom 3D enclosure designed by me Hand painted lettering on 3D enclosure to make it pop and match the Jaguar colors All SNES cables including official and 3rd party cables will work with this adapter Gold Plated contacts with a beveled edge for easy insertion of SNES Cables S-Video, Composite, RGB Scart, HD Retrovision Component cables all tested to work with the adapter Sync (C-Sync) has the proper filtering and attenuation to work with all upscalers Jaguar 9v regulated to 5v output for all proper RGB televisions and upscalers like the OSSC $25 USD + Shipping Purchase Here Demo video:
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- jag2snes
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Hello, I am really close to capturing video on twitch. First let me say that the Hauppaugr Rocket, or anything Hauppauge, has a hacky way of dealing with Macintoshes. And the funny thing is I'm not using a Macintosh to broadcast the game because my cellular phone gets more data outbound than my home internet. Stream works for Android can only seem to capture the internal camera or the screenshot. So probably between and honesty Cam and the game footage, it's a possible to split the Android screen because only one external input is allowed. Luckily I'm doing decently on the Mac version of obs. I said it the way I want then full screen on a second monitor and send the second monitor to a capture card. When I first tried, I just a Hauppauge Rocket (which could capture, composite S-Video component and HDMI, and goes out to USB 2.0 and has a second HDMI output.) And at the easycap composite S-Video capture. The EZ cap works with the Android. I have on back order an easycap HDMI device. for everything except scart I got everything I need in theory to capture including a VCR for converting NTSC RF into composite plus Stereo (or mono in 2 speakers). However the Hauppauge seems kind of roundabout requiring extra steps and forcing lag, and using the home network which is draining the Wi-Fi device despite not receiving any data, because it requires a port to be tapped for it to work. So I should probably get at least one more easycap HDMI. I'll have to HDMI one for the Mac one for the Android, and a composite and S-Video capture. If I want to totally avoid Hauppauge, and just stick to easycap which works driverless on Macintosh and Android, I need some options for 3 setups. Two of them are related. Upstairs I would like a solution for ntsc RF. Let's just say I got a small 8 mm VCR, about half the width of a VHS machine at about significant but lesser depth and height cuts. And that VCR might be too big. plus one time it just spontaneously loads and loads and shuts off so I don't want to have to rely on this forever. any solution for a compact way to convert ntsc RF to something that I could use with a in my capture cards. I would prefer a direct to HDMI or one of the three Channel analogs, but composite is okay as a last resort. I have an interesting device that I originally bought when my CRT TV didn't have an S video plug. Back then I was trying to get my games to work and I didn't want to drop down to composite. I found this one device called a video to VGA adapter. Which has 3 video inputs, one of them VGA, the other two composite an S-Video. this is an active converter with a small push button interface and requires power to be used from an outside source. It also has a VGA output. Luckily I bought HDMI to VGA converters, hoping that the converter takes less than 1 millisecond to converts between HDMI and VGA,. if that's the case then I'll buy myself quite a bit of ping time compared to Native HDMI because I've never seen a CRT TV accept HDMI. I don't think any CRT TV has an HDMI interface. The best you could do is VGA. Also I came upon scart hookups for a few systems that supports cart, all for Sega machines, (includes both Genesis versions) and the Super NES are probably be all the systems that could be done without modding a system. Also I bought an S-Video / composite / RCA audio scart female scart male adapter. First away I heard you could test to see if the adapters for the consoles are truly skirt and not the jp21 adapters without risking frying and equipment is a plug the scart cable in one end and use that adapter to lead out composite if it plays on my TV that is correct if nothing happens good or bad then we know we got to jp21. also extract out the audio so that I can pipe it to the capture card without requiring separate audio outputs. Someone told me that RCA based RGB, scart based RGB, and VGA RGB are different expressions of the same language, meaning any one of them could understand any one of the other them with a passive adapter. Is that true? And I understand even though physically the same RCA Based ypbpr is a different language of color. I also bought a device, a mayflash VGA / ypbpr 2 way converter. I noticed it was both a VGA input and VGA output. How would I be able to tell if that video to VGA device could take a VGA input again assuming the 3-3 channel RGB forms are the same, and all use "regular TVs" which have a refresh rate of 15 kHZ, could I use at VGA to VGA adapter to effectively convert 15 kilohertz to hire kilohertz standards of VGA monitors? While I'm at it is there such a thing as either a VGA input for a Mac around 2012 and uses OS 10.12? Or would a VGA to HDMI converter be more acceptable? I guess if easycap makes VGA to USB adapters it would work. By the way sorry for giving a long laundry list,. All these don't have to be fulfilled. Assuming the video to VGA adapter does what it says,. All I really need is something for. NTSC RF that won't take up much, and something for VGA to my Mac, either a VGA to USB directly that's easycap compatible or VGA to HDMI adapter and use a second easycap HDMI for that. by the way my Mac Mini has a thunderbolt 1 adapter which I heard is the same speed as( just physically different) and adaptable to USB C 3.1? I do have a thunderbolt 3 to thunderbolt 2 cable and thunderbolt 2 is physically the same as thunderbolt 1. Just giving you another option to think about. Finally I understand for light gun games, I have to go downstairs and make one path as short as possible to the TV. And yes I understand VGA monitors cannot play light gun games or Sega Master System Sega scope games, but the pain level is like that of a VCR, enough to throw a light game off but nothing much beyond that in terms of ping time. So don't go using the RGB on the CRT TV because you have to translate it to ypbpr anyway and that's adding a VCR to the chain.
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The title pretty much says it all. Has no one attempted/succeed at this? Google searches are fruitless. I feel like, out of several billions of people alive today, I may be the ONE person looking to output my Intellivision via Component. ??♂️ I'm weird like that, I guess.
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Who has modded their 7800 and what mods did you use? Everyone knows the limits of the stock video output of the 7800 and how it leaves much to be desired. What mods have you gone with and why did you choose to mod your system.
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I'm looking for a good Raspberry Pi setup I have the following Xbox to trade or possibly sell (includes) IDE Adapter to Sata Card 80 pin high speed ribbon cable 750GB 7200 Rpm hard Drive Clear "Ghost" Case 2 Controllers Dukes Power Cable Hi-def component cables Red lighted Controller Ports Blue Lighted Top Power Switch On the Controller Clear DVD Cover Mod vid_1.mp4vid_2.mp4 PM me for details Thanks for looking!
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I'm looking for a good Raspberry Pi setup I have the following Xbox to trade or possibly sell (includes) XBox IDE Adapter to Sata Card 80 pin high speed ribbon cable 750GB 7200 Rpm hard Drive Clear "Ghost" Case 6Ft Extension Cable For Controller 2 Controllers Dukes Power Cable Hi-def component cable Red lighted Controller Ports Blue Lighted Top Power Switch On the Controller Clear DVD Cover Mod vid_1.mp4vid_2.mp4 Send me an offer if you would rather buy PM me for details Thanks for looking!
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From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component
Gameplay of Pitfall! NTSC version Played on my Atari 2600 4-Switch Woodgrain Console modded using Tim Worthington's 2600 RGB Mod showing it in YPbPr Component Video Output.© SavyIsJoshoArts aka Activision Man
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From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component
My high score on Activision's H.E.R.O. played on my woodgrain 4-Switch Atari 2600 using YPbPr Component Video Output.© SavyIsJoshoArts aka Activision Man
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Hello, New to Atariage but I am just wondering if anyone has seen one of the Intellivision Keyboard component just wondering an approximate value, sorry if this is the wrong place to ask. Still learning! Thanks
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NOTE: THIS GUIDE IS NOT YET COMPLETE IN THIS ONE POST! THERE IS PLENTY MORE TO KNOW AND I'M JUST GETTING STARTED! CHECK BACK IN LATER POSTS FOR MORE INFO! Hello AtariaAge! This is a guide I've wanted to put together for a while about getting the best possible image (and audio!) quality from all of your retro consoles, including Nintendo, Atari, Sega, Sony, Microsoft, and even other consoles like the Colecovision, TG-16/PCE, Neo Geo, and Intellivision! IMHO one of the coolest things about collecting games today is the fact that we can experience them better now than we did years ago with the new technology available to consumers via the magic of the internet. If you've ever wanted to make your games look amazing on real hardware, this is the guide for you! Check out this comparison! It is truly stunning to see. For starters, you need to understand the issue non-HD consoles present: to plug into the largest amount of standard consumer televisions, all consoles from the Atari 2600 all the way until the Wii were packaged with either a Coaxial RF (Radio Frequency) cable or composite RCA cables. These pack all of the audio and video into one and three cables respectively. The video is condensed and is ruined before it even reaches your TV. However, with the power of better cables many systems can output superior quality right out of the box! Take the SNES (non-mini) for example. It can output a superior Video signal! Check out this comparison! It is even more stunning in person! However, the SNES can still do even better! RGB is a video signal that carries the video and audio over even more pins than S Video, separating the red, green, and blue parts of the image. Most RGB signals are carried over SCART cables, which were popular in Europe but never available in the USA: Here it is! The glory of RGB! However, you may have already noticed an issue here: even if your console does output a superior signal like S Video, RGB, Component, or VGA, how do you display it? Like I said no American TVs had SCART inputs ever. Also, what about systems that don't output anything anything above RF, let alone RGB, like the Atari 2600 and ColecoVision? Don't worry, there's much more to come very soon! This is just a teaser post for anyone who hasn't been lucky enough to see the glory of RGB and retro consoles looking their best. -
Hey everyone. I am just starting to try my hand at modding one of my consoles on my own, and I am considering adding component to my SNES mini. I have seen a mod the runs from the RGB chip, thru resistors and caps, and then out thru 9 pin din (I think) out as RGB to a converter. My question is whether it is possible to take the video signal out through component using the same method. If this is crazy wrong please let me know. Thanks for your time either way. Mike
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Hey, all. First post on AA. I'm trying to get the best picture from my PS2 on a Sharp 27SF56B 27" flatpanel CRT. I'm currently using a PS2/PS3 component cable, but RetroRGB recommends SCART over component for 240p/480i displays. My questions are: if I use a SCART cable from the PS2, won't I just have to convert it back to component for the TV input? Will throwing the SCART in the mix really make that much of a difference on a CRT? I get the impression that the RetroRGB guys are mainly trying to optimize for HD displays, but I prefer a more "traditional" experience. Any help here would be appreciated.
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I have the following set up: Sears Tele-Games Video Arcade "Heavy Sixer" • Replaced original RF cable with a RG6 Quad Shielded Coaxial cable with Gold plated ends connnected to the "Heavy Sixer" using a gold plated Coaxial to RF adapter • RF cable (the RG6 Coaxial) into DVD Recorder (Toshiba D-R4) Coaxial Input Link to more info on Toshiba D-R4: http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-D-R4-Multi-Drive-DVD-Recorder/dp/B0007UVYOY/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top • Component output of DVD Recorder into Vizio E390-A1 Television Component inputs (RCA for audio cable for Audio Left and Right channels) Link to more info on Vizio E390-A1 http://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-E390-A1-39-inch-1080p-60Hz/dp/B009IBXEH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422643716&sr=8-1&keywords=Vizio+E390-A1 The picture looks great! I'm very happy with this set up except for one thing. When playing some games a channel display intermittently appears on the upper right corner of the screen that says "3" or sometimes "3 Stereo SAP". It's not always there, but appears intermittently and it only does this on some games - not all. For example, Space Invaders does not provoke this problem while Ms. Pac-Man does. I tried unhooking the audio connection to the TV because it appeared to be related to the game sound (i.e. in Ms. Pac-Man if I'm eating dots then there is the sound that goes with that action and the unwanted display shows up, but if I stop and don't move it goes away). Nevertheless, removing the audio cables did not make a difference. I have included a picture below to depict the problem. Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this issue? Thanks! Dave
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Hey guys, I know that this poor horse has been beaten to death on the forums but i need some advice. I have an Atari 1040STe with 4mb memory upgrade. I have a spare LG 27" TV thats sits nicely next to my iMac. My plan is to use the TV for both low/medium and high res via din->scart and din->VGA for the Atari, as well as a secondary monitor for my iMac via HDMI. The problem is the quality of the picture of the Atari. When i view it via the Din->Scart cable in low or medium resolution the screen seems to jump every few seconds, apart from this the picture is good, however, this screen jumping makes playing games impossible When i view the atari in hi res via din->VGA, i get very slight constant flickering. When i plug the Atari into my cheap VGA monitor i don't get anywhere near as much flickering. Not sure if this may be a cause of the problem but, I should mention both the din->vga and din->scart cables have stereo audio breakouts as the rca audio out ports on the machine seem to be playing up (seems the output is way too hot and the volume doesn't match L + R, but i'm going to look into this once I've sorted the screen thing.) So to summarise; plug in via scart i get occasional screen jumping, and plug in via vga i get slight flickering. What do you guys reckon? Thanks so much!
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Okay, the time has finally come. I'm going to make a new drop-in replacement PCB for the ColecoVision. Other form factors such as portables could be made in the future (but not right now). This is still a ColecoVision; I've been calling it a CV-1.2. It's a regular CV with some improvements; it's not the next generation CV-2 with more graphics modes, audio channels, bits, etc. Here's the feature list of the CV-1.2: Component (YPbPr) video output - both RCAs and 1/8" jack provided Composite video output - both RCA and 1/8" jack provided - I don't really want to add this, but I'm guessing it's pretty much required, right? VGA (pure analog, not an F18A type solution) video output - I'm not sure if this will work yet, so don't count on it Audio output - both RCAs and 1/8" jack provided - mono of course, but two outputs available for stereo TVs 24K RAM - for Adam conversions such as Super Zaxxon and Dragon's Lair Static RAM for VDP - instead of DRAM Extra controller ports - to use 2 button Atari 7800 (or 2600), Sega SMS, Sega Genesis controllers Extra keypad support - could be added on the top of the CV console (useful if using Atari or Sega controllers) Easily replaceable controller input chips Single +5V input - either via standard CV power supply or smaller/efficient adapter Internally created -5V and +12V output - Atari Expansion Module support Output voltage for Roller controller - via standard CV power jack Power on LED - multicolour Alternate BIOSes - standard 10s delay, 3s delay, 10s/fire delay, etc. Pause button - capacitive so it's hidden (hopefully), also turns on light, and turns off audio output Built-in 31 game multi-"cart" - activated if no game is inserted Expansion module circuitry remains - for SGM and Atari Expansion Module support All new parts used - except for VDP and audio, which use NOS (new old stock) parts Fits in standard CV case - existing holes in back of CV will likely line up with A/V output and power input The features listed are meant to improve the quality of play of the system, for instance by adding proper video outputs, extra controller/keypad inputs, pause switch, and the simple multicart. The reliability of the system is improved by using static RAM for the VDP, allowing a standard 5V power adapter to be used (this should also make the power switch less finicky), making the controller input chips easy to replace, and using brand new parts. If there are features missing that you think should be added, please feel free to discuss. Unfortunately, this isn't going to be cheap. As usual, I'll do my best to make it as affordable as possible. I'd also like to make a bare-bones version that is still reliable, but doesn't provide some of the extras such as multicart, extra controller inputs, etc. As mentioned, a 31 game multi-"cart" is included. I don't want to add games that I don't have permission to include, so if there's anyone who has games or utilities that could be added, whether it be full or demo versions, please contact me. I'm not sure what kind of compensation could be given, but that's all up for discussion, I guess.- 267 replies
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Alright, so I got this really awesome 3D LED tv (Vizio Razor M3D460SR) but since it's so thin or something they combined the AV input with the Component1 plugs (green is shared with the yellow composite plug) and Component2 with the VGA input (works with a VGA to component passthrough cable and an RCA to 3.5mm stereo cable). Is there anyone with really awesome video ciruitry skills that can help devise a custom external device to combat this? Wishful thinking: A) S-Video to Component circuit - Doesn't need to upscale past 480i, but I'd like to keep the quality improvement from the S-Video connector instead of going S-Video -> RCA Composite A-2) Composite to Component if A) is possible (for 3) below) B) Some form of automatic switching between sources Realistic goals / options 1) Input 1: Component + RCA Left/Right, Input 2: VGA Computer + 3.5mm Stereo, Output: VGA connector + 3.5mm Stereo In other words, make a switch for a VGA -> Component passthrough and a normal VGA source. There's no conversion from Component to an actual VGA signal, the tv supports and has been tested with a Component to VGA cable. 2) Input: Component (Green, Blue, and Red plugs), Composite (Yellow), Output: Green, Blue, White Explanation: A switch that cuts off Red and Blue when set to Composite, Yellow gets forwarded to Green. I've got an automatic switchbox that only outputs one set of RCA audio cables for both component and composite, so that's why that's not included. 3) Assuming A): Input 1: S-Video + RCA Left/Right, Input 2: Composite + RCA Left/Right, Input 3: Component + RCA Left/Right, Input 4: VGA + 3.5mm Stereo, Output: VGA connector + 3.5mm Stereo On Input 2: Left mono to Stereo when Right In connector has no signal VGA passthrough switch as in 1) Assuming B) as well: If there is a signal on Input 4, leave it on 4 unless manually switched. If there is no signal, switch to VGA -> Component passthrough For inputs 1, 2, and 3 switch to the input that has received a signal last. ie: Input 1 is on, input 3 is turned on switch to input 3, input 2 is turned on switch to input 2. (same function as the switch box I have now)
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