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Found 114 results

  1. I have a bundle including one 8Bitdo NES30 wireless controller with a NES retro receiver. I am looking for $40 for the two together, shipped. I picked these up about a month and a half ago. I tried them out for a night, thought they were neat, then put them away and never used them again. Each item comes with all of its packaging and original bonuses. Boxes aren't perfect and have the original price stickers on them (what I paid). Retro receiver packaging has been cut open with scissors, naturally. Payment via PayPal (gift/family/friends if you have little to no feedback). Shipping within the USA only. I am open to trades, particularly Jaguar, PS1, Gamecube or N-Gage titles I do not have
  2. I'm looking for ideas on a new design for the Atari Pro CX-1000. You can see my current designs HERE As you can see we have Atari boxing, Q-bert, Pac-man, Pitfall! and Donkey Kong. I'm currently working up a design for Berzerk. So tell me, what game would you like to see made into the next Atari Pro joystick?
  3. Looking to buy a nicely used blue/gray Power Pad controller for the ST/Jaguar - Name your price or let me know what you're looking for and we can do a trade. Please PM or reply here if you have one you're willing to part with. Thanks!
  4. I've been on a bit of an arcade stick kick lately. I've got MAS sticks for Genesis and Neo, and consumer-grade sticks for almost everything else. I don't have anything good for PC at the moment, and I've been pricing sticks largely from china ($50 imports up to $200+ qanba units). (I was mostly thinking of going japanese style for this one) buuuuut, then I noticed x-arcade was having a sale. Yeah the company that puts out those godawful ugly 'tanksticks' that the mame guys go for. The solo's not as bad, and the price is right. Really, really right. $50+15 shipping right now (link). That's a 50% discount from regular. And even the regular price is on the low side for a solid arcade stick. So now I'm for the first time wondering just how good those sticks are. What kind of controls are in them? Brand, quality etc. Optical stick? Whose buttons? How are the switches? how hard is it to modify? What's the quality of the case? Is it up to the level I'm used to? MDF? Seriously, for $65, is this the bargain that it appears to be? Are there any other sticks I should be considering? Really, outside of needing those bottom two buttons replaced with hole covers, it looks pretty good:
  5. Hi, I recently got a good deal on an original GEC model Vectrex system. It's in amazing condition, and works great. But there is one issue. When I play the built in Game Mine Storm (I do not have any other games yet) moving the stick LEFT will make me spin RIGHT endlessly until I move the stick RIGHT to stop it, rather then turn me LEFT. Moving the stick right works perfect, and the buttons are fine, but what can I do about the controller? Is the problem even with my controler or the system? What is wrong? What can I do? Oh a and it would probably help to add that I hear a little rattel inside the controller when I pick it up. PLEASE HELP ME OUT!
  6. Kinsey collects Xbox 360 Controller variants and she brings some over to show us, including different colors, artwork, attachments and much more. Yes, it’s a THING & it’s pretty cool!
  7. Hi, I own 2 Atari wireless Controller in great shape but both of them have no battery cover. Does anybody have a 3D model of such a batteryplate? Thanks in advance
  8. Hi everyone. I assume that someone has seen these before but I found these on the weekend so I decided to show them here. I thought they had been lost years ago. When I first had my intellivision I read the intellivision era video game magazines and saw these advertised so I ordered them. It took about four months to get them but I thought they were worth it at the time. I have always had the discs insatalled but couldn't find the joysticks untill I stumbled across them this weekend. One of the ball sticks is still missing. I found the ball sticks to be a bit top heavy and would lean and activate movement if the controller wasn't level, but they worked as you would expect. RetroAl
  9. Hi. I have a question about the Atari 5200 games library. Are there any game that utilize more than 2 controller at once, using 3 or 4 of the ports on an original 4 port system? If so does anyone have a list of them. Lastly, do any homebrew games utilize this feature? Thanks
  10. My dad was the origonal creator and manufacturer of this controller. After a suit with the company who trademarked the word "astroblast" he ended up throwing about 10K of these away. I am looking for one (two if possible) in its origonal box. . I would love to have one for the front office of the company that is still going strong today. His birthday is this weekend and I think it would be funny and ironic to buy him one. http://s382.photobucket.com/user/Sr-Ferraz/media/Joysticks%20and%20Controllers/AtariStarplexVideoGameController2.jpg.html here is a picture of one
  11. Today I found a Wiko command control stick at Goodwill for a few dollars. As I have one and love it, I thoyght having two would make two player less of a fight over who gets to use the old CX controllers. Anyway.... The stick itself is fairly loose, but still seems to work ok. I'd like to fix it to get some of the rigidity back. I took the screws out and opened her up. What a mess. Apparently as part of the center assembly of the stick is a square pice of metal with a hole through it. Int he hole is a plastic ring that surrounds a metal grommit. The center plastic bit with the grommit has completly broken off due to age and wear. The plastic looks to have pretty much disintegrated. Some kid must have used that thing HARD. Any suggestions on how to repair or replace it on a budget?
  12. I recently finished a project where I had to gut these from new aftermarket controllers.These function with the Nintendo entertainment system. These would serve as direct replacement in an old worn out NES controller and work great. I have about 19 of them. PM me if you want all or one of them.
  13. From the album: Uh, retro stuff

    The internals of the new Colecovision Flashback controller, half the info needed to design a compatibility dongle.
  14. From the album: Yes my collection

    I always find myself using this controller over all the average joysticks I have because compared to those it's very fluent. I bought this from whoever sold their Atari XEGS to me. I'd have to say whoever made this deserves an award of some sort. It's just great.
  15. Hello there! Working on a home arcade controller that will have compatibility for 2600, 7800 and Colecovision. I've tried looking around but can't find a definitive answer -- how essential are those 620ohm resistors? I'm mostly wondering if they're likely to cause any interruption in function (or other problems) if they are left in the circuit for 2600 and Colecovision operation, or left out? Just want to simplify the number of switches I'm using... the fewer the better. Thanks.
  16. As suggested by Random Terrain in this thread, I've made a new thread to ask the specific question: How do I get the driving paddle to work? I know that it's been done in zombie chase and the code is something akin to this (this version was tweaked a bit by bogax: const nomove = 1 const turnright = 0 const turnleft = 2 data ptbl nomove, turnright, nomove, turnleft turnleft, nomove, turnright, nomove turnright, nomove, turnleft, nomove nomove, turnleft, nomove, turnright end temp1 = SWCHA / 4 & $C temp1 = temp1 | last last = temp1 / 4 if ptbl[temp1] & nomove then goto no_move if ptbl[temp1] & turnleft then goto left else goto right However, when I try this, it just results in a constant turn one direction or the other. Note: that is using Stella with the Driving controller selected. Could someone perhaps give a very simple working example or maybe point out what's wrong, if anything?
  17. Good morning fellows. I tried for the forst time a roller controller with Centipede yesterday and, although it works to some extent, I'm not persuaded that it works as it should. First of all, to move the "shooting head" from one side to the other of the screen, several full rolls of the sphere are required. is that it? I've always thought that the control was much more sensible than that and that the screen could be crossed with - say - half roll of the sphere. If the latter is correct, is there anything inside that I can clean to improve the effectiveness of the control? Also, there is a slider on top which reads "joystick-roller". It acts so counter-intuitively that I completely falied to understand its purpose: if set on "joystick", the roller moves the characters on the screen to some extent; if set on "roller" everything gets frozen. Shouldn't it be the opposite? Any clue, please? Is it broken perhaps?
  18. I've got a new discovery of a special joystick that can get digital control games on the Atari 5200 & 2600 like Meteorites & other 80s versions of Asteroids to be more analog for fine-tuning the placement of your shots. This can also be helpful on Star Trek Strategic Operations Simulator and Wizard of War. On the flip side this variance in movement of your onscreen character may not be such a good idea in certain digital games because it may slow you down when you need to always be full-steam-ahead (ie. PacMan, Dig Dug, Frogger, Q-bert, etc...). It also will not be a preferred method of control with 5200 games that already have the benefit of innately working in an analog way with an analog controller (Missile Command, Super Breakout, Dreadnaught Factor, and Star Wars Arcade). But on the certain digital-control games which require specific shot placement or character placement, it's going to enhance your control. I am really excited to tell you that Beamrider and Gyruss are completely beyond awesome with this new method of control. I have yet to try Pitfall or Pitfall II with this method, but I can imagine there'd be a benefit with them as well. So I'd like to go over the details of how to set this up on the 5200. First you will need an original Playstation flightstick made by Madcatz. This controller has a switch to enable digital or 'pulse' digital control. The following adapters will be connected to that flightstick: 1] A PC gameport to Atari 5200 15 pin adapter. (Source: bohoki here at Atariage makes them) 2) An Atari/Amiga controller 9 pin to PC gameport controller adapter (Source: Ebay seller Ikonsgr74 makes them) 3) Best Electronics Atari Systems to Sega controller Convertor cable (Source: Best Electronics- call their 800 number to order) 4) A Tototek Joypad Counverter (Version MD). This allows Playstation controllers to work on a 9 pin port of a Sega Genesis. (Source: Tototek website) Alternate method: Replace adapters 1,2, and 3 with a Masterplay Clone adapter, and user the Tototek with it. One more method: Use a PC gameport to 5200 15 pin controller adapter with an Innovation SmartJoy Emulator adapter (Playstation to PC gameport adapter). The latter adapter is not easy to find at a reasonable price these days. If you want to see a presentation/tutorial on this, here you go:
  19. I've put up the latest presentation that has to do with playing and collecting 5200 games. This is filled with a lot of game footage as well as info on controller adapters as well as the Trakball. Enjoy!
  20. Apparently people are still selling fake PS3 controllers. I bought one new on ebay and it turned out to be fake. The listing got pulled after I bought it. The controller arrived and it was obviously a knock off. I asked for a refund and i just got it. It's kinda bad but not really. I played with it and it was not too bad. I've used worse controllers that were not trying to be knock offs. I had ordered another authentic controller (used this time) and the refund made up for buying a real one. So I ended up getting a controller for free, even if it's fake. It still works. It only has issues working as player 1 with PS2/1 games.
  21. Grimakis

    TAC-2

    I just got one. It's pretty good, although the throw is a little long, and the buttons are rather deeper. What do you guys think, yay or nay?
  22. Hello everybody:) I just downloaded to latest version of Stella onto my laptop and got the ROMS for it. I was wondering if anybody had any joystick advice for me. The USB sticks that look like Atari knockoffs on Amazon have pitiful ratings. I'm surprised that their isn't more of a selection for vintage gaming enthusiast. I wanted to get two joysticks so my Wife and I could play together. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Scott
  23. Picked this up free and was wondering what it was for. Clearly it's been scavenged for parts but I thought I'd see if it was something I oughta try fixing or maybe someone else would want it if it wasn't something I could use. Atari controllers probably connect to one end. All I know is it certainly isn't a ti 99/4a adapter. Maybe trs 80? Some pictures inside and outside.
  24. I just got a 2 port 5200 from a flea market with no games and busted controllers. One controller is missing the keypad buttons and the other misses all buttons but membranes seem fine although dirty as hell. I tested the unit with a 12V 1A power adapter and it turns on or at least the led turns on. (is there a way to test it better with no game inserted?) What I need is a couple games to start and test and of course one controller in very good or excellent condition. (parts to repair mine are also accepted) I live in Greece Athens (18452) so you will need to include shipping to offer. I have low budget due to testing only for now but if my unit works I will need more goodies You can also mail me at [email protected] as I can instantly see your offers on my phone.
  25. Sony's stance on the batteries in their PS3 controllers is simple: If it dies, then you need to replace the whole controller. Anyone who has taken more than 2 seconds to look into this though knows this is nonsense and one can easily replace the battery..... issue is, since Sony's stance on it is "It's not user-replaceable", they don't sell replacement batteries.... which means you have to rely on a 3rd party to get one. And the issue with THAT is that nearly all of them are garbage. Tons of replacement batteries on Amazon and other sites... but many of them have reviews of people complaining the battery overheats, or didn't last half a year, or plenty of other such problems. Sure, the majority of reviews might be 5/5 or 4/5... but nearly all of those were written nearly immediately after getting the product, not after they have had the product for a while. It's a total crapshoot... with the odds not being in your favor... if any 3rd party battery you find is decent quality or not. That's why I am asking here. Is anyone aware of any DS3 3rd party batteries that are actually good quality and reliable?
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