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Showing results for tags 'controller'.
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Hi there, I am trying to get a controller to work properly. I cut the cord and attempted to solder the wires on to the connector and being inexperienced I didn't do a very good job. Any way to fix this problem any easier?
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Hello there, After months, I'm still wanting to buy two Fairchild Channel F Model 2 controllers that are detachable and I can use those controllers on MAME. I could try getting the console itself but it's really expensive and the AC adapter is very, very old. Does anybody here have two spare Fairchild Channel F Model 2 controllers that I could buy? Please send me a PM if you have two spare controllers.
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Hi, I am (slowly ? ) rebuilding my PFM modded Geneve (384+192K) system and I really don´t know what controller/combination to use. Can/should I use the HFDC for the harddrive only plus adding a BwG (or CC9900) for the (2+HxC) floppy disk drives ? Makes that sense for an extra FDD-controller ? Maybe just to have it full or to prevent from any problems ? I have some controllers, so it is not the question to save up one. And I have no need for formats bigger than 720KB. I also want to add an HRD3000 Ramdisk, is it possible to boot from that, instead of the harddisk ? Does this make sense at all ? Or just install it without boot, just to have it ? Is there any use for the TripleTec-Card ? Speech maybe ? And use the CC9900 floppy controller instead of the BwG ? I also have the Myarc 512 KB RAM, but I think there is a special mod to be done, to use it in the Geneve ? And I will add a RS232, maybe I take the Myarc instead of the TI (?) I also have an ASCSI2-Controller, but I really do not want to use that because I want to keep my SNUG system complete. (if anyone wants to get rid off a WHT-SCSI, I am your man) What did I forget ? thx If needed, here is a picture: More detailed here: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/315250-ti-994a-show-your-modded-systems-here/?do=findComment&comment=4734298
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Well there it is. I've used it to replace the broken one in my controller. STL's attached. No Warranty! coleco controller thing.zip- 10 replies
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Hey all! I’m a big fan of the nuon and like many others I’m looking for a controller so that I can finally play the games it has to offer! I’ve managed to acquire both remotes for my Samsung n-501 as well as my toshiba sd2300 units. However, it’s very difficult to enjoy playing the games with them. I’ve seen a few controllers on eBay but unfortunately (due to these trying times) I can not afford the exorbitant prices they are going for. Anyone have one for a reasonable price? thanks!
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I have done some brainstorming for a YouTube video that has to do with classic video game controllers that people pay over $100 for. In the end, I'm thinking people don't pay that kind of money for 2600 controllers... but could I be wrong? I know there's a Wico that has an extra large base that people look for. Do you think that one would fetch more than $100? Here's the link to the video if you're interested:- 14 replies
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Here are 4 2600 controller that I built and have up for sale at the moment. The black and white one and also the red/black/white one are 70$ shipped in the cont. USA. They are ready to rock with 10’ cables, plexiglass covers,siemitsu ps14g pushbuttons, and (black one) has Sanwa joystick, red has a zippyy stick. The white and black one and the green one are 60$ shipped USA. They have 6’cables. Also taking orders for custom builds right now as well if any of y’all happen to be interested in a custom stick. I’m not set up to build for 5200, Jaguar, or intellivision, but those several consoles aside, I can build out for most any retro consoles. Thanks for taking the time to check them out. Jeff Boss Level Controls
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While browsing ebay, I stumbled upon this controller https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Analog-Arcade-Controller-for-Atari-2600-Console-Video-Game-System/164292462985 It's basically two Atari paddles stuffed in metal box, but instead of knobs, the two potentiometers are connected to gimbals like in RC plane controller or in 5200 joystick. The two connectors are still Atari 9 pin. What system and software would require controller like this?
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The Atari Lynx 1-UP from: starforcepi.wordpress.com What’s the greatest handheld of the 1980s and 1990s? Why, the 16-bit arcade juggernaut named Atari Lynx, of course! I was a kid when the original Lynx 1 came out for us here in the old country in 1990, and was blown away. The Game Boy was a monochrome moron in comparison, and the Game Gear was all about converting Mega Drive and Master System games to pocket version – the Lynx, with its hardware-driven zooming and distortion of sprites, was going for Arcade experiences. BOOYA! Sadly, as with everthing Atari, this too turned to dust. BUT, fast-forward to 2018 and look at the love for this loveable giant! So much so, that McWill, a name you must’ve heard of by now, released one of the most impressive upgrades for a system I’ve ever seen – LCD replacement for the waning washed-out Lynx screen, with VGA output. The VGA output was a great addition, but the way I’ve seen people utilize it online seemed rather silly to me; you would have to use the Lynx as the controller when playing on the VGA. No sir, I don’t like it. So I decided to use the spacious room behind the screen to build an interface to: 1) securely place the Lynx on a stand; 2) output VGA; 3) connect a standard DB9 compatible controller (Mega Drive, Master System, Atari). It’s a tight squeeze, but the VGA, Controller port and Stand all fit neatly in the small 3x4cm interface window. This was an absolute pleasure to build, everything went smooth and simple, all the measurements were direct hits, hell even the stand only took me 10 minutes to design (8 hours to print, but hey). So let’s see it in full VGA action: It’s perhaps the best handheld to consolize: the GameGear has most games on Master System or Mega Drive, the GameBoy looks rather silly and clunky on a monitor, and TurboExpress is pointless, because it’s a 1-to-1 conversion of the actual console. I am glad I did it, I hope you will too, and stop placing those ugly connectors on the top of your handheld. Building the Lynx 1-UPI bought a pristine looking junked Lynx 1 for 20 euros – seemed a good place to start, let’s see if we can bring it alive! I replaced all the capacitors, power input socket, MOSFET, but finally it was the two 3906 transistors that were the issue. In order to do these replacements, you need a fine-point soldering iron and some tweezers, but everything on the board is quite spacious, so there’s no mistaking what’s what. This part is cheap: 7 dollars on console5.com. They have links and tutorials on that site, very complete. I also bought the McWill for 120 dollars, I was gonna do this mod regardless if this particular system was junked. So far everything together cost me ~150 dollars. After bringing the console back to live, it was time for McWillification! I followed the 1 page diagram that came with it, but it’s a little information dense, so I followed the following video instead: This worked better than I could have ever imagined, I know everyone says they’re gobsmacked when they see the difference, but it really is very true – I get why it’s such an expensive mod now. I was gonna leave it with that, honestly that’s just everything one could ever want from an upgrade… but, of course, me being the way I am, things escalated. You see, the mod came with the VGA socket, and I saw how people were placing these at the top of their handhelds, and you know what – it looked ugly. I want the facade of the handheld to be untouched. While I was adding the McWill mod I noticed the enormous space left behind the screen, which is when I had the idea: make the Lynx into a hybrid, with the connector ports at the back with a stand for console gaming via VGA, and all the ports hidden behing a minimal cover during handheld gaming. I first ordered DB9 sockets for a controller, and placed this together with the VGA socket on the inside of the battery cover. I made a little window in the battery cover, 3D printed a frame and cover for the ports, and there we have our interface. For the controller ports I had to solder 6 wires on the button pads of the Lynx PCB. Luckily most of these have soldered extension traces, so you can avoid blocking the normal button-to-pad press, but for two I had to solder directly onto the pad: be mindfull to be as flat as possible. Then we wire up the VGA socket to the pads on the McWill screen, this is shown in the accompanied diagram of the screen. We then place the DB9 and VGA socket in the space between the batteries, where the little light tube of the old screen sat (ignore the loose wires, they’re from the battery input, I cut them for ease of access). In the left picture, top connector is the VGA socket you can see running to the McWill screen. The lower connector go to the front of the PCB to the button pads. When assembled the VGA socket is lower, and DB9 is upper. Next to these I added screw connectors, so that I may fix the system to a stand, as shown in the next pictures: Unlike the Nintendo Snack Pack, this was a joy to make. I did it to unwind and relax, I didn’t want to build something from the ground up, but this just gave enough inspiration to just slightly 1-up it. The Lynx Stand and little VGA cover in particular really clean the mod up nicely, and makes this thing into a fully consolized system. I must admit though, I’ve been mostly playing it with the stand and controller via the McWill screen, not via VGA, but hey, it’s there. Finally, it all cost me a substantial 150 euro, but it was worth it. The Atari Lynx is a very strange and powerful handheld, spanning 7 years with 72 games, it’s still enjoying new homebrew releases every year, with a small but dedicated following. I’m very happy to be one of them. Upgrades: Full capacitor replacement MOSFET replacement 3906 Transistor replacement Power input socket replacement McWill Screen upgrade VGA output port DB9 input port Custom interface window & stand
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Sega Genesis adapter for Atari 2600/7800 (WIP) Button A : Fire (2600 / 7800 ) Button B : Top/Thrust (2600) / Left button (7800) Button C : Front/Trigger (2600) / Right button (7800)
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So a long while ago I had a bright idea on a "captain's chair" 'controller' for playing Star Raiders on the 8-bit / 5200. My thought is a joystick on one arm of the chair (e.g. on the right, for right-handed folks), with a thumb trigger on top, or index finger trigger on the front, so it can be controlled entirely with one hand. On the other side, there'd be a keypad controller (like used by the 2600 version of the game), offering the various toggle controls: front view (F) aft view (A) long range view (L) galactic map (G) attack computer (C) targeting computer (T) target selector (M) shields (S) hyperwarp (H) pause (P) That's 10 keys, so totally doable with a 12-button keyboard controller, connected to the second controller port. Finally, on that same side (e.g., left, for right-handed users) would be an analog throttle, like you see in a boat. Fully forward (towards the TV) would be "twin-ion engine" at full-speed (9), and fully back (toward the player) would be full-stop (0). This would be connected to the paddle input of controller port 1, alongside the main digital joystick input (if I'm reading things right, it looks like the POT stuff is used by keyboard controllers). Obviously, a hacked version of Star Raiders would be required for this to work (read paddle for engine control, read keyboard controller for other keyboard control). It'd be a pretty cool set-up, though, don't you think? Sadly, I don't have the skill to do either the hardware, or the ROM hacking. ?
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I've recently decided I want to indulge my nostalgia and play Qix on Atari like I did as a kid. However, I've now realized I have no clue what I'm doing. I figured out what we used to have was an Atari 1200XL and that those are hard to find now. So here are my (doubtless way too basic for this forum) questions: 1) Does the 1200XL use the same controllers as the 800? (because the only 1200XL I found on ebay doesn't have controllers and the controllers I found only say they're for 800) 2) Does the 800 - or 800XL play Qix and Moon Patrol the same way the 1200XL did? If so am I better off just getting an 800 since those seem to be more available? 3) Any other advice or things I should know? Thanks
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Samsung Nuon SNS-2000 controller.
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Here's the newest addition to the MiniVex controller lineup for Vectrex. The MiniVex V features a steel case and an adjustable rapid fire feature for button #4, like the other models do. This one's got a LH mounted spinner control and a RH mounted analog paddle control. The spinner can be used with some homebrew games and an assortment of original Vectrex titles that have been modified for spinner use. It also doubles as an extra fire button, just push down on it. The paddle control can be used with the game "Hyperchase" in its original, unmodified Vectrex cartridge format, as well as Vectrace, Spike's Water Balloons, Vaboom, and a few other homebrew titles. There's also a switch that selects the X or Y axis for the paddle, which allows you to navigate menus on multi-carts AND crank up the thrusters on Moon Lander. All in all, a versatile package. Need additional info? Please post here or PM me. Larry
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I have a SNS-2000 controller and I want to sell it, I can't find info on it anywhere. How much would it be worth?
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If any of you have wondered about whether the Hyperkin Ranger could be modded into a two button controller for Atari 7800 compatibility- well, the day has come for that to become a reality. I came up with a way to pretty easily accomplish this, and I did it with a Nintendo Switch Joycon connected to the Ranger. It was done without using adhesives or drilling holes in controllers, so you can rest-assured there won't be any damage done to your favorite controllers. My tutorial video and review of the Ranger with footage of Dark Cavern and Kaboom! is found here, so check it out:
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For those of you with a Wii or Gamecube, I have unique controller options that enable you to have an authentic flight yoke to play Star Wars Arcade which is a bonus game in the Gamecube title, Star Wars Rebel Strike: Rogue Squadron III. With this flight yoke, you can also play many Gamecube flight games- and there's even a way to go wireless with the flight yoke. If you are a fan of Star Wars, this can really up the fun in these games. Check it out:
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Hey everyone, This is a bit cheeky of me, as I already posted this in the Hardware section, apologies for this. I'm a bit stuck with adding an additional fire button to this controller, I've seen pin diagrams for 7800 controllers, but it looks like everything is already in use here. There looks to be an analogue to digital conversion too. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks ?
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I recently bought a boxed 5200 controller, and upon inspection of the box, I noticed it had a very late copyright date of 1987. That got my wondering...was Atari still trying to sell 5200s long after they were discontinued? Or was this just a matter of having so much excess inventory after the crash of 1983 that they still packaged and sold their obsolete merchandise in hopes folks would buy it? I just think it's kind of weird to see this being sold during the days of Nintendo Entertainment Systems dominating the market, all while Atari puts all hope into the flailing 7800.
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Hello, I've had a look around on the internet but can't seem to find anywhere that stocks replacement Jaguar controller rubbers, specifically the D-pad. Are they available or is there a substitute? I received a second controller and after cleaning, and fixing the lead, the pad requires a solid press in one direction to move. Pad rubber is at fault, verified by turning rubber 90 degrees and testing then turning again and testing. Also after supplier of known good AU, or international, aftermarket Jaguar plugpack as most online advertised plugpacks never make rated amperage. I'm currently using the original UK plugpack with an adapter and will buy a rated Meanwell adapter and change the plug as needed but would like to find out what everyone is using. Repaired lead. Hot glue gun to fill in the missing sheath. Lead then depinned and sleeved with 10mm heatshrink. -
After experimenting for weeks I have found a way to get lag-free control on the 5200 digital games as well as a few of the Trakball titles with the X-arcade Tankstick and my custom Tron 80's Arcade Multicontroller (which includes a spinner). This is done with daisy-chained adapters/cables and all the components are currently in production, so it's possible for anyone to get this set up. In the presentation I show a number of 5200 games being played in ways you've not seen them played before on the 5200 including Pac-Man, Beamrider, Choplifter, Dreadnaught Factor, Meteorites, Star Trek, and Zone Ranger. Hope some of you can benefit from this:
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There's now a way to use the X-Arcade Tankstick trackball on your 7800 to play some specific games that really can be extra fun with that kind of controller. The games I have in mind are Alien Brigade, Centipede, Crossbow, Crack'd, Commando, Dark Chambers, and Xevious. I've spent some time figuring out what adapters are necessary to accomplish this, and even included info on using other PC compatible controllers like my custom Tron 80's Arcade multicontroller with the 7800. Check it out:
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Hi, I have an odd issue with an Apple IIe I bought about a month ago. It came with a working Disk II drive, and a controller that I was told by the seller that only worked on Channel 1. As a response to this I ended up getting 3 more controllers (dont ask). And after using all 3 to trouble shoot each other, I got 3 working fully, and ordered some chips to fix the 4th (not the original). To test, I am using a floppy Emu unit, with diagnostic disks on, and the Disc II drive, for channel 2. So the chips turned up and I swapped one into the broken card. Tested, nothing, so I took some chips out of the other cards, swapped in, and re-seated the new chip. Turned on the Apple and It did not power up correctly. The power LED on the mboard pulsed, and the keyboard light flickered. I checked the card and found that the new chip had not inserted one entire side of its pins, with the other inserted correctly. Erk! So I re-seated the chip, and tested again, and the floppy Emu booted. Phew. Back on solid land. At least I thought so, but... I then plugged the Disc II into the second channel on the fixed card. Booted. and Now the Floppy Emu unit would not boot, showed an error. Turned off, removed drive from channel 2, booted, fine. How odd. I thought, OK, there must be a deeper issue with this card, not just the one chip was faulty. So I now try the other 3, tested working cards. Same probem. So, now I removed the Floppy Emu from channel 1, and plugged the Disc II drive into it. And booted. Drive spins up, but never boots into the game. I tested this with 3 known working floppies. So.. to get the authentic feel of the Apple IIe I had bought Duo Disk unit. Which was shipped as working, but I had not tested it yet. So it came with an IO controller. I plugged this in, removed the Disc II controller. Same issue, physical drive spins, but it never boots. Now, some more supporting evidence. With the Duo Disk unit, I received a spare Apple Serial Card. So I tested this with (ADTPro) at least, that was the plan. I booted my PC, connected it to the card, made sure the cards dip switches and modem config were the right way. Plugged in, booted. Typed IN#2, pressed enter. And instead of it just going to another prompt. Instead the cursor went to the top of the display, and when I pressed CTRL + A, which would put it into serial connection mode, nothing happened. So, now I knew something REALLY odd is going on. I put my original KNOWN working Apple Serial Card in, and tried the same. Same issue, it does not work, as it had before. OK, so... Has anyone else encountered issues like this? The machine works superficially. I tested the ROMS, CPU and Memmory, all good. It runs at least the Diag software fine, from the Floppy Emu. But, I now CANNOT boot ANY physical floppy drive, and I cannot use the serial card. Further diagnostic info. I tested the Duo Disk unit in the Diag software, it showed an error, saying the drive speed was wrong. When I tested its speed, it showed it being between 295 to 298 RPM. The correct value being 300. I then tested my Disk II unit. It was kind of worse, no errors, or anything showing. And when I tested its speed, it would not show. So my guess is... when I put that chip in, in one side of the socket, but totally missing the other, something shorted, and damaged my PSU. Because of this, it is now running, but outputting the wrong voltages, maybe.. Im getting a Multi-Meter this weekend, So I'll be able to test this idea then. Alternatively, some chip, or other element, that powers the cards slots, is damaged, and this is delivering wonky power, to low, too high, who knowss. Its really odd that the machine seems to work in general, it processes, no memmory errors. But, both serial AND floppy drive units do not work, even though they are receiving power. Please, any help most appreciated. And my back story is. I neved originally owned an Apple II. Im from the UK, so I had an Atari 2600, then Dragon 32, then C64. The Apple II was too expensive in the UK at the time. But.. In 1985 I got a C64 floppy drive, plus £100 of games (it was s bundle) and one was Ultima III (Exodus) which I loved, and I never got to play Ultima I and II. So, I decided to get a real retro machine, BUT one I never actually had, and to try out the original Ultima I, II and III, as they were all developed on the Apple II.
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Intellivision controller membrane replacement
AlwaysOnPlanetPatrol posted a blog entry in Rose-Tinted Recollections
Other than my main Atari 7800 console, the other (retro) console that gets a workout in my household is the Intellivision. I've always found the controls frustrating, especially the disc. Since I have two systems, I can actually compare what they are supposed to be like since one seems to have the controls working properly. The unit that's a bit more beat up cosmetically is the one that seems to function better. So I'd like to get the main unit we use working in the same way. I searched for replacement controllers, considering building my own out of arcade parts, and even debated about swapping the controllers. In the end I came across RWAP's replacement membranes. Interesting enough, I found the original thread here at AA after purchasing them. I have an Intellivision I, made in Hong Kong circa 1979 so I figured perhaps over the years the component degraded and worthwhile doing the replacement. I ordered mine and about a week or so they arrived from the UK. May have arrived sooner but with Covid-19 I wasn't really going to the mailbox every day. The pair of membranes look in pristine condition and pretty much identical keypad buttons. Here we are in 2020 and one can get amazing parts for an old system. Having done replacements in various Atari controllers, the Intellivision version takes more patience and I personally found it tricky. Unscrewing the controllers shows the simple (non-)mechanical nature of this controller. The trick to get these out is to slide the side buttons up. The 5 layers should come off easily. My circuit boards said REV E 1 and 2 for each of the controllers. The Replacement Process Open the controller by removing the four screws Once open take out the disk and the spring. Keep track of the plastic thin disc that goes between the two controller layers. Slide up the two side buttons. Pull out the entire plastic circuits. Nothing should be attacked or glued to the controller. I suggest you make a note of the order. The replacement pieces come gently pre-folded. On the two shorter keypad pieces do a proper fold on the two sides. The better you fold it, the nicer it will sit snugly on the controller. On my controller, the attached foam pad ended up being too thick. I used the replacement pad provided. Peel the thicker pad gently. Fold the longer membrane with the clear piece sitting in between. DO NOT fold it too much or you may break the circuit lines, fold in the clear sections to keep its shape. No that the disc contacts are set lower than the keyboard, so you will need to. There should be two plastic pins above and below the keyboard that allow you to guide the mylar replacements and provide alignment. The tricky part will be to replace it. Align the longer parts focusing on the keypad section. Place the two smaller keypad pieces above it. Push the two side button sections in and put the buttons back in. You may need to push the sides in a bit more although I found the action of putting the buttons back helped. Make sure the disc section sits centrally. Place the white disk between the clear and the bottom layer. Place the spring and the plastic disc controller over the circuit. Screw the controller case back in. I should note that the first time I installed it, I skipped the plastic thin disc and nothing worked properly. That's when I also noticed the bulge due to the thicker pad. Layer Order The layer with the circuit contacts with the foam attachment goes to the very bottom, while the gold keypad will be the top layer. The transparent long piece will go in between the two longer circuit membranes. Observations It's a tricky set-up and takes patience. Before this I never bothered to see how the internals of the Intellivision worked. It's great that RWAP included the thinner variety of the foam pad. For Snafu or Space Armada, I can notice the difference. For Pac-Man and Lock'n'Chase it's pretty much the same, so I'm guessing it's the game or my skill. I will probably order another pair just to have the parts. I'd love to find replacement brand-new side buttons or disc just to spruce things up a bit. Overall I'm very happy with the replacement part. -
Today I've got something interesting to share in the 2600 controller department. There is now an Ebay adapter that you can obtain pretty cheaply (made by Atariage member, Ikonsgr) that gets a PC USB mouse/trackball working on the 2600. The catch is that: #1) only USB mice and trackballs that have PS/2 compatibility will work (and those that have PS/2 plugs need to be adapted to USB with a cheap little green PS/2 to USB adapter). #2) This only works with the digital games (not the paddle games). The really great news is that #1 can be remedied by buying an Aten KVM switch that converts USB (non-PS/2) mice and trackballs into PS/2 compatible devices. These are not cheap (over $50), but can open up possibilities of playing your 5200 with some quite interesting controllers, including the X-Arcade Tankstick which has a trackball (shown in the picture below) and this as well: https://www.ign.com/articles/2006/02/03/x-arcade-trackball-review The video below starts with using the 2600 to play Mines of Minos, Cosmic Swarm, Centipede, and Off the Wall, and then goes on to the 7800. I start the explanation about the X-Arcade Tankstick trackball around 16 and a half minutes in (showing it work with 7800 Centipede) so you'll probably want to not miss that part. Also there's 5200 compatibility with an additional adapter so that might interest you as well. Hope this is beneficial to some of you The products: Here's the link to the PC USB mouse/trackball to 9 pin Atari adapter (sometimes the Ebay product goes out of stock, and then gets restocked, so definitely keep checking back if it's not available): https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Mouse-Adapter-For-Atari-ST-Amiga-Amstrad-Commodore-9pin-DB9-Joystick-Port/274204936054 Here are two links for the PS/2 to USB mini green adapter (1st one may not be based in the U.S. & is cheaper): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UMX89XA#Ask https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GUV4UK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MOoDEb7Y5HZVV The Aten KVM Switch (Model CS82U) is necessary to get non-PS/2 mice and trackballs working on your Atari systems and is found here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QOBZXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZgpDEbQPRJ199
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