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Hi, I have come into possession of an ASCII Stick Alpha for the Sega Master System. I have done some Google/Atari Age searching and have come to a limited understanding that trying to use it on a 7800/2600/800XL might be a bad idea, but I don't understand why and under what circumstances (if any) that it might work. But then I have a buddy who swears that he has played some of his Atari games using a different SMS controller for decades and it hasn't caused him any problems. What happens when one tries to play his or her Atari with a Master System controller? Thanks for your time, --SilvaHaloOne

Coming Soon for Vectrex... MiniVex Pedal I Vectrex Controller Button Controller. Following Larry's (ClassicGamesAndCarsFan) current MiniVex controller is the new MiniVex Vectrex Pedal Controller. The controller is designed so that it may be used either in tandem with another Vectrex controller, or independently on a different controller port. Plug the Pedal Controller into your Vectrex. Plug your controller into the extension box controller. Select button 1,2,3 or 4 with the rotary switch. Then stomp it! The selected button still operates from the controller as well as the pedal. The Pedal Controller can be used in on its own too. Plug the pedal controller in the desired Vectrex controller port. Select button 1,2,3 or 4 with the rotary switch. Then stomp it! Keep an eye on availability through Larry's regular eBay sales. Here is his his eBay sales via his "ClassicGamesAndCarsFan" seller account. https://www.ebay.com/sch/ClassicGamesAndCarsFan/m.html?_sop=10 I'll post more pictures later when mine arrives. #Vectrex #MiniVex #Pedal #Foot #Switch #Controller #MiniVexPedalI

After selling well over 200 controllers I am working toward having these manufactured fully in china and packaged properly. This will take some time to sort through companies, in the mean time we are putting the store on hiatus eventually closing the etsy store due to fees. If I do manage to complete this task I will most likely find another store (or another way) of selling these controllers. Maybe amazon? Who know at this point. I can still have PCBs made if there is still enough interest. I'm also working on upgrading my printer that currently has 1200 hours on it we will sell 3D printed atari carts and label on AA. Just DM me and I can give you a quote! Thanks again for all of your interest!! The Atari 7800/2600 Controllers KITS ARE OUT OF STOCK! Fully assembled controllers OUT OF STOCK! PCBs & CUSTOM 3D PRINTED LABELS ARE OUT OF STOCK!! New updated instructions for kits here... Atari 7800 Controller Assembly Instructions (2).pdf Order here: http://www.itsallgeek3d.com Hello there AtariAgers! I wanted to make an official AA Marketplace post from the original forum post here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/272541-7800-controller-project/ Tired of the Pain-Lines or the bulky standard CX-40 joystick? Oh yeah, That’s right you are. Order now! Call today! Supplies are limited… no seriously, they are. This is the All-New V1.2 Atari 7800/2600/SMS NES style controller! Excellent! Two-Button Atari 7800 Action! Wow! Both buttons act as fire button with Atari 2600 games! Unbelievable! 3D Printed face label is a 2-Color print. Standard V1.2 Atari 7800/2600/SMS Controller is in a Silver/Black configuration. Although color can be customized for a fee, it is limited to the stock of filament colors I have. Which changes weekly. Keep in mind that the controller itself is black. The PCB is the new V1.2 can also be compatible with Sega Master System In theory. This is in BETA phase and has yet to be tested. There is no difference in the components of the SEGA/ATARI kits (SMS compatibility only available in kit form) It’s just a matter of swapping a wire or two during assembly of the kit. Three ways to buy! Full Brand New V1.2 Atari 7800/2600/SMS NES Style Black Controller New Redesigned V1.2 PCB w/DB9 Cable (Coming Soon!) Kit! New V1.2 PCB w/x2 620 ohm Resistors, DB9 Cable, Black NES Shell, D-Pad, Start/Select and Red ‘A’ and ‘B’ Buttons and all the rubber contacts. 3D printed label, you specify ‘ATARI’ or ‘SEGA’ Order Here: www.itsallgeek3d.com Also, the 7800 controller coupling will be in the store as well. For the AtariAgers that have a 3D printer here are the files... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2767791

I’m having a weird issue with my Genesis model 2 where only controller port two doesn’t work. On one game specifically “Thomas the tank engine and friends”,I don’t get any controller action from either side. I’ve desoldered and soldered them back on a couple times but to no avail. Here are some picks hopefully someone can help me bring this puppy back to life.

I have had 6 different inquires about a replacement front panel retention clip for the Vectrex controller Anyone want to make the 3D model file? Here is an album link with are some images of the part. Vectrex Front Panel Controller Retention clip ( https://photos.app.goo.gl/XZPCuRuZ2fi8LcK49 ) And a couple pics from that album.

I figured I’d try my hand at making a few different 5200 controllers, and as a Paddle Controller was never commercially available…I figured I’d start there. So unveiling my - 5200 S.S. Edition – VVG Paddle Controller: I found a few examples online of how others have done something similar, but as I wanted a “full-featured” & “stand-alone” 5200 handheld Paddle Controller, I wasn’t going to be able to start with any existing controller as a donor. So the base enclosure is a Hammond Mfg. black anodized, extruded aluminum enclosure, with aluminum end plates and a slide-out aluminum belly plate. Needless to say the enclosure is extremely robust, machines very well, and is only slightly larger than a normal CX-52. Normally the selection of a potentiometer for the control in a paddle controller is kind of a no-brainer. Pick one with the resistance value that you require, and that has the physical attributes that will allow for its installation in your project. But when researching paddle controllers others have made/modified for the 5200 and 2600, I had read complaints that some felt the controls were too sensitive for some games or not sensitive enough for others. So I chose a 2-Gang, 500k ohm linear potentiometer wired through a SPDT switch, so that I can switch between 500k ohm and 1M ohm at the push of a switch. The 500k ohm setting is less “touchy” and allows for finer movements and control, while the 1M ohm setting allows for super quick on-screen movements, like those necessary in the higher levels of Kaboom! The resistance selection switch is located on the lower end plate and is protected from accidental in-game switching, by a clear flip-cover. The switch to the right of the resistance selection switch is a SP3T (ON) – ON – (ON) paddle rocker switch, which is wired as the controller’s Up/Down controls. This allows me to maneuver around my AtariMax Ultimate SD Multi-Cart menu line by line for game selection. For the games I intend to use this with, I don’t know that I really need both 5200 buttons, but I figured as I was going all out, I might as well include both the Top & Bottom buttons… …and to make it ambidextrous, I installed them on both sides: The side buttons are Sanwa SDM-18 arcade test buttons. They feature concave plungers for a great vintage feel, and have a nice light/short press to make the contacts. Of course it wouldn’t be a “full-featured” & “stand-alone” 5200 controller if it didn’t have its own 12 button keypad and Start/Pause/Reset buttons, so I installed a 4x4 membrane keypad with a custom overlay modeled after the original CX-52 buttons. This allows for all game selections and auxiliary controls, without the need for a wye cable and/or a 2nd controller to be used in tandem. Lastly as I don’t normally sit within 2’ of my gaming consoles, and I don’t like using extension cables if I don’t have to, I bought and wired a 10’ 5200/Neo-Geo extension cable for the cord w/ molded plug end. The plug end has the longer/deeper cut required for the Neo-Geo, but I don’t have any issue with it on my 4-Port. I think the control knob itself has a good vintage look, and I like the aluminum disc in the center, but I think I’m going to keep looking for something different. The potentiometer has a standard ¼” shaft so there are lots of options on the market…I’ll see if I can find something I like any better. Additionally I’m going to make an inline 5200-to-2600 adapter cable so that I can use this on/with with Atari 2600/8-bit games, and I'll make a properly pinned wye cable so that I can plug (2) of these into (1) 2600/8-Bit controller port, for 2-player 2600/8-bit games. Enjoy!

For sale is a Nintendo SNES super Famicom controller modded for Vectrex. Cleaned, but some scratches present due to the previous usage. Buttons are mapped as follows: Nintendo Vectrex Button A - red Fire 1 Button B - yellow Fire 2 Button X - blue Fire 3 Button Y - green Fire 4 Left shoulder b. Fire 3 Right shoulder b. Fire 4 For use only on Vectrex, will not work on other systems! This is a digital controller, which means that few games that require analog joystick (like Hyperchase) will not work properly. Price: 45€/$50/£38 + shipping 7€ Europe / $13 world I have 3 pieces, if you buy more than one, shipping is the same and I can make some discount too.

I recognize I’m late to all of this, but is there anywhere/way to get a modded Jaguar controller for Colecovision? I recently got ahold of the SGM and a dozen or so games, love them! ...but, the standard and SAC don’t quite cut it with those games and I feel like the Jaguar controller is where Coleco would’ve went to. I’ve found a handful of pics online, but no solid contact. The below image is perfect, if it’s real. Thanks!

Maybe someone can help me solve a few small problems I'm coming across. I'm following this schematic/description -- https://gamesx.com/controldata/psxcont/psxcont.htm#CIRCUIT I think I figured it out...mostly. He leaves a lot to be deciphered, lol. I'm drawing up a schematic in KiCAD right now, and I only have a few questions: 1. The DATA pin of the controller plug connects to SER OUT, correct? 2. Where does the COMMAND pin of the controller plug connect to? I must've re-read the entire page 15 times and still can't decipher where COMMAND goes. 3. Are the 74HC165 pins not associated with buttons (A1-A8, B1-B8, etc.) left with no connection? Or do they share a connection? COMMAND, maybe? Thanks in advance!

I’m excited to show you the OdysseyNow Game Pack, the result of a lot of research and development at the Vibrant Media Lab that I direct in Pittsburgh. We’ve developed a brand new game card for the Odyssey (the first one not designed by the Magnavox team), a brand new accessory controller (the first created besides the original light rifle), and a set of three new games. This was all produced as part of the OdysseyNow project, which you can read more about in another AtariAge thread. Here’s a glimpse of the games… Tannhauser Gate In a remote wing of a remote galaxy, on the frontiers of cosmic knowledge, lies Tannhauser's Gate, a colossal directed energy beam fed by a spacio-temporal anomaly of seemingly ceaseless energy. On the other side of the Gate is The Expanse, one of the most mysterious and deadly regions of outer space yet discovered, a zone that seems to vacillate in its allegiance to the laws of the quantum to the laws of the galactic. Spacetime here seems to have a will of its own. Charybdis, a black hole, lies not far from the Gate, and is clearly related to it in some way. Crimson Maw, a mostly uninhabitable planet, nonetheless provides researchers in the area with an ample supply of both common and rare minerals. Unfortunately, the planet and its single natural satellite, “Odysseus,” are isolated from the gate by the massive parade of interstellar stone known as the Scyllan Corridor. Closer at hand, yet surprisingly more barren, is the planet Coronation. Because few minerals or supplies of interest can be found there, it is used mostly as a garbage dump. Such is the fate of even the most regal of mineral-poor planets. Multiple interstellar civilizations have sent researchers to the area, mainly in an attempt to understand the intergalactic wormhole that serves to connect this remote spot to the energy-rich Flywheel Galaxy via Quantum Refluctuation. While ostensibly a demilitarized zone, Tannhauser Gate is plagued by intense rivalry over the scientific knowledge that it provides to its sponsoring corporations, governments, and collectives. These researchers must uneasily share a moon base shielded by the Gate. To venture beyond its boundaries is to be bombarded with a relentless stream of dark particles. No shields can last for long. While an interstellar team of engineers has managed to harness the local energy flux to construct the Gate, its operation remains partially at the whim of the energy patterns that feed it, making the expanse beyond the Gate even more risky to explore. For this reason, the largest scientific collective to currently study the area has created a specialized, long-range scanning platform. Located safely behind Tannhauser Gate, it launches and receives C-beams capable of probing any form of matter. Their rivals, however, use replicant-manned spacecraft to explore outside of the Gate, directly. Take on the roles of the Scanner, Explorer, and Gate Keeper as you compete to complete your missions and disrupt your rivals. Will you be the one to discover the secret of Tannhauser Gate? Tannhauser Gate is a 3 player game that makes use of a newly designed game card (#13). This card includes an external Aux jack and a “Switch Controller” that attaches to it. The card generates the Tannhauser Gate. The switch controller opens and closes the gate. The Gate Keeper player draws a special Gate card at the beginning of each round, which contains a special gate pattern that must be followed. The Scanner player remains stationary throughout the round, but may send C-beams (represented by the Odyssey’s ball) through the gate to scan various objects in the expanse beyond. The Scanner draws Scan cards that provide specific assignments to carry out. Meanwhile, the Explorer must charge up their ship, activate their life support system, wait for the right moment, and zip out into the expanse, attempting to complete their missions (given on special Explore cards) and return to safety inside the gate before their ship is destroyed by the energy fields of the expanse. This is extremely risky, however, as misjudging the ever-changing rhythm of the gate could cause the ship to implode before it can reach safety! In addition to Game Card #13 and the Switch Controller, Tannhauser Gate makes use of the Damocles controller, the first Accessory controller for the Odyssey besides the light rifle. The Damocles controller plugs into the ACC port on the Odyssey. When Player 2 presses the large red button on its face, a countdown timer lights up and begins counting down. When it hits zero, it extinguishes your on-screen player spot. Its button also lights up red to remind you that you’re dead! A white “regen” button allows you to regenerate your ship when the time is right. In Tannhauser Gate, all three players are doing completely different tasks using completely different tools, yet all three interact in unexpected ways (the gate can bounce the Scanner’s C-Beams away as well as “lock out” the Explorer at a crucial moment, Scan missions can require the Scanner to scan the Explorer, and Explore missions sometimes require the Explorer to intercept C-Beams. The results ensure that no two games of Tannhauser Gate are the same! Fukushima Fukushima is the first-ever cooperative game for the Magnavox Odyssey. Two players are placed inside the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant and must work together to prevent the inevitable: a meltdown. Each player takes on a different role in the plant. Player 2 uses the Damocles controller to continually complete a Cooling Cycle, while also assisting Player 1 complete a progressively more difficult Maintenance Cycle, which involves directing the ball to specific points while also activating particular buttons at specific times. This would be enough of a challenge as it is, but a third player with a timer consults a Meltdown reference card and at the appointed times calls out various new disasters that the players must contend with. (Note: If you only have two players, you could also make a recording of the Meltdown Cycle and play that back during gameplay.) The game starts out easy, but gets progressively more difficult as you try to beat the clock to safely shut down the reactor before it fully melts down. Because the game has a delineated set of “levels,” you can easily track your progress. Your team can even compete against other teams for a high score (level achieved + time survived at the point of failure). No one here has been able to beat the game yet. Maybe you can? Fukushima is not only the first coop Odyssey game, but is also the first to utilize the “Wall adjust” control on the console itself. In this game, the wall represents the reactor’s containment barrier, which must sometimes be moved by the players to gain access. But be very careful: when the containment barrier is open, you must prevent the ball from entering the core or it will instantly melt down! Fukushima requires game card #13 and the Damocles controller. Super Cat and Mouse: Cheesy Castle At OdysseyNow, we are big fans of the underappreciated Cat and Mouse game on the Odyssey. We think that a fun concept and mechanic was undermined by substandard production design, and have decided to re-invent the game by giving it a proper setting: a medieval castle. Now, the mouse must collect cheese strewn about the castle by lazy humans, while avoiding the King’s fierce cat! As the King’s cat, of course, you must rid the castle of that peasant vermin.

I have a Joystick controller that came from an Atari Flashback console (Flashback 2 I believe) that has worked fine until recently. All of a sudden the right direction stopped working. I took it apart and re-soldered the wire for the right direction, but nothing changed. At first it went up when I pressed it to the right, but that was only due to a sloppy soldering job (the solder was connecting the right and up directions). After fixing this, the problem was not fixed. Would it be a problem with the controller's connection to the console? If anyone has any advice I appreciate it.

Just wanted to share here today that I've managed to find the best method for getting a mouse working on quite a few 5200 games- 1 and 2 button 5200 games. Here's what you need: 1) A Masterplay Clone that doesn't only make Atari joysticks compatible with the 5200 but has 2-button game compatibility designed to get Sega Genesis controllers working (mine was the 2016 model made by Atariage member, Atariguy1021) 2) A Commodore 64 mouse (model 1351) 3) a 9 pin splitter cable (1 female end to 2 male ends) and a Sega Genesis controller- this is only necessary if you're wanting to play the 2 button games. The setup is explained in my latest presentation which includes a lot of gameplay footage:

Hey there guys and gals This holiday season I'm going to be getting an Analogue Super NT and I've been on a quest to get the best wired SNES controllers that I can get for it in brand new condition, and I've decided on going with the controllers from a Super Nintendo Classic Edition coupled with some adapters to interface them with original SNES controller ports. With that in mind I'm looking to buy either a new/sealed Super Nintendo Classic Edition system to snag the controllers from it, or just two new and unused controllers if anyone has an extra leftover from their Super Nintendo Classic Edition that they never got around to using. Price wise I'm looking to pay either $100 PayPal'd and shipped for a complete and new/sealed Super Nintendo Classic Edition or $25 shipped each for new condition Super Nintendo Classic Edition controllers. Thank you for taking the time to view my thread and just and just shoot me a PM if you have what I'm looking for and would like to sell!

Greetings fellow forum members. I need your help and expertise in solving a problem. Recently i bought a 2600 vader console. Its in great shape and works perfectly. It came bundled with a pair of wireless cx-42 controllers, also in great shape, but they dont seem to work at all. The console powers with the receiver unit plugged, but theres no input from the controllers. I tested them with yars revenge and the yar just keeps going up and down while the unit is plugged. If i disconnect the controller cable the yar stops moving. Also tried with missile command and pole position and nothing happens. Turning the controllers on and off or pressing anything ,doesnt seem to affect the on screen action. I opened the receiver and the controllers and they seem to be fine. Nothing broken, burned or blown. Is there any other way to test if the receiver and the controllers are working? I could get a refund for the controllers, but i really want to keep them, they look so cool and i really love to see them working. Thanks in advance for reading!

No matter what game I try or which controller I use, my 7800 will now think I am rapidly pressing both of the fire buttons. Is something wrong with the controller port? I'm hoping whatever it is, it will be an easy fix, but I dread that I might need to crack it open and operate on the circuit board.

hey. really new to atari. i got mine today! its an original 2600 jr with 4 rom chips built in so as far as i know its kinda rare so thats cool. anyways my problem is, i bought the quick shot controller and it wont work. its really hard to get it in so im even unsure if it fits. could someone with the controller confirme it works? maybe an idea of whats going wrong here? any help will be much appreciated

Hi, I have restarted my old company: Awesome Arcades. Its now selling Atari styled USB versions of the CX40 joysticks, Desktop arcade controls (So far I've only posted up the 7800 versions (Left & Right hand) and I need to update the photo's as they include built in paddle controls as well. I'll be posting on in the coming days the 2600 version, USB versions and some specialized desktop arcade controls like a dedicated Asteroids control panel for both 9 pin game/computer consoles and a USB version. I have a Missile Command one but I am awaiting the special buttons to make it arcade realistic. So, if you are interested, please stop by the site, sign up for an account and make a purchase, thanks. https://thejoystickshop.com Here are some of the products:

Hello friends, I recently came into some new Super Famicom hardware, including two mystery controllers that I absolutely cannot find any information on. I suspect they are nothing special but I'd like to be sure. This forum seems like the perfect resource, full of knowledgeable folks who might be able to identify such things. Please see attached images. The controller is called the "Master Blaster" which really complicates getting a decent google search. I have two, non-functional and one functional but in need of silicon repair. I don't have the means to try and fix the non-functional one. Just wondering if some museum would benefit having these before I potentially get rid of em. Thanks!

****UPDATED October 20, 2017**** Scroll down to see photo's. Atari, Commodore 64 and Sega Master System controllers for sale. I've tried to make these a bit more budget friendly but still have a nice design with quality parts. I can do button placement on the right or the left of the joystick. PM me with special requests. The joysticks are made with IL Eurostick joysticks* with cherry micro switches. The buttons are concave Happ buttons. Cables and strain relief boot are brand new. Nyloc nuts are used to prevent loosening over time. The Atari joysticks work with both the Atari 7800 (two buttons) and the Atari 2600 (both buttons act as "fire"). * The iL Eurojoystick may be better known as the original HAPP Competition. iL (Industrias Lorenzo) is a Spanish manufacturer of high quality and extremely durable arcade parts. Originally known for manufacturing HAPP parts (such as the Happ Competition Joystick) until HAPP moved production to SUZO facilities in China, iL continued to provide high quality parts under their own label. Poorly lit video demo of joystick in use: https://youtu.be/0KPjN-yAEDI What I have to offer: Standard Edition in both Black and White. $68.95 Special Edition Controllers with Atari characters (Boxing, Q-bert, Pitfall, Etc.) $75.95 AND UP (Depends on design - see photo's/pricing below) Single button 2600 Edition $63.95 (Works with the Commodore 64 and Atari 2600) Commodore 64 Joystick $63.95 (Works with the Commodore 64 and Atari 2600) Sega Master System (Mark III) $68.95 (Works with the Sega Master System) Orders are accepted for anything you see here. If it's not in stock I can make one for you. Lead time is usually 1 1/2 to 2 weeks depending on what parts I need to order. Shipping cost depends on location. It varies from $9 up to $17 (Priority mail with tracking). If you send your zip code I can give you an estimate. Paypal Accepted. STANDARD EDITION BLACK: ($68.95) STANDARD EDITION BLACK - RIGHT SIDE JOYSTICK: ($68.95) STANDARD EDITION WHITE: ($68.95) SPECIAL EDITION BOXING: ($74.95) SPECIAL EDITION Q-BERT: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION PAC-MAN: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION DONKEY KONG: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION PITFALL: ($85.95) SPECIAL EDITION DOUBLE DRAGON: ($77.95) 2600 SINGLE BUTTON EDITION: ($63.95) COMMODORE 64 EDITION: ($63.95) SEGA MASTER SYSTEM (MARK III): ($68.95)

Here's my tutorial video on upgrading my old Jaguar rotary controller into more of a spinner controller. I used an Atari 2600 paddle top that I loaded up with fishing sinkers. Check it out here:

Hi guys! I have modded a Sega Megadrive/Genesis controller for my own needs but have tried also to put it on Ebay and to my surprise they are selling quite well, so I have now got a bunch of Sega controllers for modding. If you would like to have one too, check it on ebay: Sega Controller Modded for Vectrex If you would like some other button order or if you have some other special wish, please send me a pm and if I can I will gladly make one customised just for you. ? Have a nice day!

I had some Coleco Gemini Controllers included when I bought some games off a kijiji ad and when I bought a system. My problem: I opened them and cleaned them and there was black gunk all over the connectors. I first ran it through stella with the 2600 daptor 2 and it was funny. The dial moved the ship in defender and the stick when I pushed up would shoot but when I had the case off it would work no problem. I tried ms pac man on a 2600 and it worked the button worked and the joystick worked (with the case on). When I tried it on breakout the dial worked but I had to press up on the joystick to shoot the ball (This was also on a 2600). Now what I think it is I used too much rubbing alcohol and took something out of the board but I just want to fix and remedy it. There was possibly some black gunk that was supposed to be there possibly? HELP!

Hey there guys and gals! This afternoon I got a couple of Retro-Bit's new 6 Button Sega Genesis controllers in the mail from Amazon, and since a lot of folks around here have been curious about them I thought I'd take a few minutes to do a little review of these controllers and compare them to Sega's own 6 button controller from back in the day. First off let's take a look at the packaging. Retro-Bit did a really nice job on the box, which as far as I can tell looks almost identical to the boxes that Sega shipped their 6 button controllers in back in the 90's. The plastic insert inside the box that holds the controller in place is rather flimsy feeling, but the controller it holds is most certainly not. To cut straight to the chase, let's take a look at Retro-Bit's offering next to an original 6 button Genesis controller from 1994 that I purchased brand new on eBay a couple months ago and have only put a few hours of use on since then. From the outside it's clear that Retro-Bit's partnership with Sega on this project was a fruitful one. The color, feel, fit and finish of the controller's shell is absolutely identical to the original Sega controller and the cord looks and feels the same as well; with the only difference being that the Retro-Bit controller features a 10 foot long cord as opposed to the 6 foot cord on the Sega controller. Aside from the lack of a "TM" next to the Sega logo on the front and the addition of the Retro-Bit logo on the back, the text on the controller is just the same as the original and the only obvious difference is that the finish on the D-pad and A/B/C buttons on the Retro-Bit controller have a soft matte texture to them whereas the D-pad and A/B/C buttons on the original controller are slightly glossy. As long as we're on the subject of the D-pad and buttons, when pressed down the only difference I could feel between Retro-Bit's D-pad and buttons and the original were that the Retro-Bit ones required ever so slightly more pressure to activate; somewhere in the area of 3 to 5 grams of actuation force if I had to venture a guess. To give them a proper test with a fairly demanding game I popped Mortal Kombat II into my Genesis and first did a full play through of the tournament mode with my original Sega controller, then upon beating the tournament did a second play through with the Retro-Bit controller. After two play through's of MK II's tournament I'm pleased (and a little surprised, to be completely honest) to say that I could find no discernible difference in build quality or function between Retro-Bit's new Genesis controller and Sega's original from 1994. During the 45 minutes or so I spent playing through MK II's tournament mode with the Retro-Bit controller I never once experienced a false input and in practice the tiny bit of extra force required to move the D-Pad and buttons was negligible. My thumbs didn't feel any more tired after playing with Retro-Bit's controller than Sega's and none of my movements felt any slower or less precise. In order to get a better idea of why Retro-Bit's controller performed every bit as good as Sega's original, let's open them up and take a look inside. Peering inside, it quickly becomes apparent why Retro-Bit's new Genesis controller performs so well. It is in every respect, down to the millimeter, an exact copy of the original Sega design. They are so identical that I would be very surprised if they weren't using the same mold that the originals were made with. With the exception of the screws that secure the two shell halves together (which are slightly longer on the Sega controller) every part is 100% interchangeable between the two controllers. In fact, when I swapped the silicone button and D-pad contact pads from the Sega controller into the Retro-Bit one the actuation force required to press the D-Pad and buttons became exactly the same as the Sega controller had; which makes it pretty clear that the only reason the Retro-Bit controller's buttons and D-pad required a tiny bit more force to press is because it has brand new silicone pads in it and the Sega controller's silicone pads are about 25 years old at this point. The especially nice thing about Retro-Bit's controllers being internally identical to the original Sega ones is that if you do ever manage to wear out the silicone button contacts or any other part then they can be easily replaced with any of the numerous replacement parts on the market made for Sega's original controllers. With that future proofing in mind I give Retro-Bit's Sega Genesis 6 Button Arcade Pads my highest recommendation. Never in my life have I encountered a third party controller for any system that was such a perfect copy of the original first party controller as these, and at only $15 each and officially licensed by Sega there's absolutely no reason whatsoever that I can think of to go try and hunt down a used original Sega controller when Retro-Bit's new Genesis controllers are available. They are, for all practical purposes, the exact same controller. Whether your looking for some top quality wired controllers to pair with your new Analogue Mega Sg or just need a good controller or two for your trusty old Genesis, I don't think you'll find a better option than Retro-Bit's Sega Genesis controllers anywhere; past or present.

I just did a very quick search and didn't find a picture of this so I thought I would post it. It's from a 1984 Montgomery Ward Christmas Catalog (page 535). It may just be the picture, but this controller does seem to look a little different than the standard Proline controller from the 7800. This version appears to be designed for the Atari 2600 (most likely the same as the 7800 proline I assume). Anyway here's the full catalog page: