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Found 9 results

  1. Hello, first post on this site! My name is Per and I’m from Norway, known as The Hillbilly Gamer. I’m at my wits end and I’m now going around asking for all the help I can get if any. 😂 I have been repairing, refurbishing, modding, cleaning etc games, consoles and periferals for over 10 years now. And I have mastered a lot. I got a request some months ago to help out making some repro snes carts. I my self collect a lot of Japan only games and use my retron 5 to play them in English so I had been playing with the idea before but not jumped in to it before. I went in to it head first and bought my self a GQ-4x4 USB programmer with the adp-054 adapter, a bunch of chips and even a bunch of other stuff for making wire leads etc. Prepared for everything, I thought, I started preparing a bunch of games for reproing. Found a lot of good guides and felt I was getting it. Then when i came around to writing the eeproms it all came to a screeching holt. My fancy programmer has little to no tutorials or YouTube vids and I have tried a lot of things. But my chips do not either write or they do not verify. I have bought more chips, different brands etc. I need to be using the 27c322 chips and I just can’t find any good help with my programmer or the chips. Is there anyone here that can help out? Or point me to somewhere or someone that can? 😂 Im at the point where I am considering I need to buy a “lesser” programmer and adapter to make it all work as I have found lots of tutorials for the cheaper programmers 😂😂😂 hope someone here can help. Per The Hillbilly Gamer
  2. Hi I'm trying to make a type of FlashCart for Atari 2600 using an Arduino Mega 2560 and an EEPROM memory from ATmel (AT28c256, 64 Kb). Initially, my project uses the PC for flash memory. I upload a custom Sketch containing the bytes of the game Keystone Kapers. The burning process worked perfectly. My goal is to burn the ROM using Android Device via Bluetooth. I am decompiling several ROMs and making different Hex files. I will place these Hex files in a folder and select the file of my choice to burn in memory. When the burning process ends, a buzzer plays the PacMan's intro music.☺️ ☺️ My question is about mapping the memory chip with the cartridge board. I have a cartridge from a Brazilian company called Dactar. This cartridge comes with 4 games in 1. To select the games, it is necessary to change the position of the lever switches. There’s a IC 74LS04 to control the switches positions. But, guys, I don't want to use this Brazilian cartridge, because I think it's very complicated. And there is another problem even more complicated ... ...I know that this Atmel memory at some points, has different memory pins like the W27C512 and others. Has anyone here burned Atari 2600 games using this same type of memory that I use? does anyone have a print file of the circuit board specifically developed for this type of memory? in case of yes, could anyone share this resource with me? Thanks in advance.
  3. I’m restoring an Astrocade and would like to build a Balcheck. I’ve reviewed the plans and photos on Bally Alley (awesome website!). I’d like to create a PCB with parts that are currently in production. Can anyone recommend a modern alternative to the 2716 EPROM used on the Balcheck device? I’d prefer an EEPROM or Flash with very similar functionality. A quick search on Mouser returned the Microchip AT28C64B. It’s larger than need but I can ground the unused addresses A11 and A12. Also I have a TL866 so I can easily program it. Btw: could the AT28C64B work for a homebrew cartridge too? I figure all the other IC’s can be replaced by a single inexpensive MCU. I’ll post the Eagle files when I’m done. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
  4. Dear AtariAge forum Recently I found out interesting 3DO stuff. - In some Japanese 3DO FZ-1 theres is a single SOP44 ROM chip which does contain BIOS and Kanji fonts on the same package. The second ROM slot on the board is left blank. - SOP44 3DO ROM chips can be read as if they were 29LV160 chips (eg. AM29LV160**, MBM29LV**, MX29LV160**, ES29LV160**, HY29LV160**, the asterices being any letter) - BIOSes can be written on to AM29LV160DB and AM29LV160BB. Probably on the rest of the afore mentioned chips too. - The RSA check can be removed from the BIOS by changing the two occurrences of 000313A0000111A0 into 000313A0000011A0. It is important to leave the 000213A0000111A0 as it is. - Without RSA check all arcade games and unlicensed games will run on home console 3DOs - M2 games did not run on such systems yet and probably won't Member Tajigamer was a invaluable help during these explorations! Keep on preserving stuff, kind community! Ben
  5. Hey everyone. I'm trying to make my own custom cartridge but I've run into some problems. Here are the steps I took: 1. Got a donor cartridge PCB (Skiing by Activision). This is a 2k game but the layout looked straight forward. 2. I got an Atmel 8-bit 5-volt 64k EEPROM. 3. I desoldered the skiing EPROM and soldered pin headers in instead. (since the Atmel EEPROM doesn't actually fit because it has more pins.) 4. I programmed the EEPROM with the Skiing ROM. I checked the data in Stella and on the programmer and the bytes match. 5. I placed wires from the headers on the cartridge to the EEPROM on a breadboard. When I turn the Atari on, it usually makes random sounds and scrambled screens. It's almost like the Atari is getting random data every time it turns on. The sounds and screen data changes every time if anything is displayed at all. Checking with a logic probe, it looks like everything is high. The address pins and the data pins all register as high. I'm not sure what to do with the sGND and the A12 address bit. If I connect the sGND to the GND the Atari won't start. Do I just connect the A12 to the EEPROM's A12? Does the Atari use A12 or is it always on? Outside of wiring it wrong, is there anything that stands out? When I programmed the EEPROM, I left the remaining ~62k empty (FF) assuming the Atari can't address it anyway. Thanks!
  6. The new homebrewers cart has a 512k flash on board. In order to simplify things it would be nice to have only one configuration. What should it be?
  7. Hi everyone, I wired up a little 2k/4k multicart that uses a 74LS04 for a CE hex inverter. It works with the AMD 29F010A-90PC and with some minor wiring changes, the smaller Atmel 28C64-15PC However, it will NOT work with the Atmel 29C010A-12PC and I've tried several. Sometimes I get a glimpse of the game screen before it blanks out. An older post http://atariage.com/forums/topic/21851-2732-eeprom-and-problem-with-6-switch-atari/?do=findComment&comment=240804 describes a similar problem (though I have a 4 switcher) and he solved it by using a 7406 inverter. Before I take a chance on that inverter does anyone know what might be causing this problem? I'm trying to understand why it would effect the 120ns chip but not the 90 or 150? I really would like to use these chips since I have a few lying around. Many thanks.
  8. Thinking (again) about updating my LPT port eprom programmer. This seems like a very complete package. Anyone? Or alternatives for say under $150? http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-speed-true-USB-Universal-Programmer-TL866CS-Full-Pack-include-7PCS-adapters-/320967107440#vi-content Thanks, Larry
  9. Hi, I'm working on a bankswitch card that supports multigames. I first made a normal 4k multicard using a 27C256 that holds 8 games, for testing purposes. Easy to make, and it worked fine... Because I have my own programmer, but not an UV eraser, I wanted to use a 29F010 EEprom that can be electrically erased. The pinout of this is (almost) the same as a 27C010. So I copied a few ROM's together and programmed the EEprom, but for some reason that didn't work on my Atari 2600. I used my programmer to read back the ROM file out of the chip, and tested it in Stella (32 in 1). That worked fine, so there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with programmed chip. Does anyone here have any experience using EEproms for DIY cartridges or mulitgame card, and what is the difference between using a EEprom and a normal Eprom (because the normal Eprom is working fine). Many thanks !!
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