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Hi, yesterday I´ve found an interesting thing, which I didn´t know until now. On pin "S" of the cartridge-slots of an Atari 800 there´s not the "PHI2" signal attached as on all newer machines - there´s "RAS" connected. The falling edge of PHI2 and RAS is nearly the same, but RAS is much shorter low than PHI2 (of course, there must be some time for CAS, too). Most modern circuits (in flash-carts or flashable carts) sample the PHI2 signal for their logic. So I think, this might be most significant reason for problems while writing to flash-memory or using special carts like the myIDE II. See the signals on the scope: So I try a little modification and use PHI2 on pin "S" instead of RAS. And these seems to be the solution... myIDE-II works now without any issues in an Atari 800 with Incognito. Also some other carts with suspicious failures works now. I test this on two Atari 800 equipped with Incognito. On one machine I take the Incognito out and re-install the old genuine personaliy and RAM cards. Also everything works fine. I have only one cartridge with "Write to cart" features which works on the original old 800 system: Telelink II. But this also works fine with that patch. If you want to do this patch by yourself, here´s a possible way: Cut the RAS trace on the place in the picture. Connect pin "A" and pin "S" on the "right" cartridge slot together - that´s all! This mod is independent which TV system you have, it works also on NTSC as on PAL or SECAM. Regards, Jurgen
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I have a 2600 that won't come in on my TV. I have the RF plugged into an RF>coax adapter and into the (CRT) TV and when I turn it on the TV static goes wild but no picture. So I know it's getting power. I cleaned the game. I tried both channels 2 and 3 and even did a channel search but still nothing. Any suggestions? Could it be a bad adapter? I know the TV is fine because I just used an NES plugged with RF earlier.
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Hi guys its been a while since i posted on the forums however, My sound (monitor output sound, don't have rf box) is not working. I did a couple measurements with the multimeter on the POKEY and it seems that it does have voltage output at pin 37 (read that on forum where someone had the same audio problem with their 130xe) Personally, I have a hunch that it's not the POKEY chip itself rather it's a capacitor or resistor in the sound circuit since I'm pretty sure POKEY handles I/O and keyboard scanning (both of which work tested the disk drive with emulation with aspeQt/SIO2PC, however cassette playback does not work.) So I guess my question is should I just skip trying to get a donor POKEY and attempt to troubleshoot the sound circuit (potentially just shotgunning the entire circuit and replacing it all until it works)? I would gladly accept any advice from anyone! Thank you! I have the schematic of all the resistor/capacitor values here http://www.jsobola.atari8.info/derelit/xefsm.pdf
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Hello. I recently obtained an Atari 400 labelled as "working". Upon setting everything up, it will only display a green screen. Every time I turn it on, it only displays a green screen. Where should I go from here? What are the most likely causes that I should investigate? Some more info I forgot to include: 1. A green screen is displayed 100% of the time so far. Never a black screen / anything else like some other posts I have seen. 2. I have tried inserting various cartridges, however something is wrong as carts do not click in all the way on this machine (tested and work fine on my other 400). So, I am not sure how to test other functions of the machine using carts until I can figure out this problem. 3. I have used the power supply with another Atari 400 which works fine.
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Ok guys, I’m stuck. I’m only 16 so I don’t reeeeeeeally know what I’m doing, but I need your help! Atariage, I’ve been scammed!! DUN DUN DUUUUUUUUN!! I bought a “working” atari 400 off of OfferUp whose only problem was that it had a cut video cable (Which I replaced with one I pulled from a broken 2600) and no PSU (which I had bought before the system arrived). I, being the idiot I am, DIDN’T test the system before starting my cleaning/retrobrite process (pictures below ;) ). After that week of school I threw the system back together aaaaaaaand... black screen... :( I’ve tried Everything I can think of, I reseated all the chips on the whole computer (cleaning the pins and the sockets as I did), cleaned the the ram and cpu board connectors, started it up with a star raiders cartridge, made sure everything was grounded properly, deoxidized the power jack, cleaned the channel selector, tried multiple tv’s (both new and old), and STILL I get that black screen... WHAT SHOULD I DO?! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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So I got a light sixer atari 2600 for christmas, its already been modded by the seller so theres no channel switch and it just plugs straight in to the tv via the coaxial port. Granted with a little tuning I have it working just fine on my tv (except for the screen rolling. I have tried a signal booster (the kind you buy from the shop Ive not risked cracking open the console yet as I'm still learning the ins and outs of it) as i read that could be the issue but no change. The power lead is just a standard 9v AC plug and my tv is a Panasonic Viera TX-L32G20B 32" 720p HD LCD TV. I was told it should be able to run on HDTVs just fine which to be fair it does except for the screen rolling. Any advice as to fixing this would be great. Thanks.
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Hey guys. I was told you guys are the best place to get help, so Im here asking for it. I have a 5200 with UAV and S video installed. It did not come with a power supply. I went to my local retro gaming store for one. I plugged it in and the red light on the console lit up dimly a few times than went off. I brought the whole system and power supply back to the store. They tried another one. No dice. Longer story short, they sold me an AC Atari computer power supply, not one for the 5200. I have no idea where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hello, I just bought two retro Sega handheld consoles recently but I just realised that both of their screen are burnt as faulty. So I am look for an experienced repair for new LCD screens to replace them. I will happy to pay for LCD screens from websites like Ebay, Amazon, etc. I will pay you for your service to fix them. I will happy to drop them in Sydney metro but I don't mind to post them in only Australia as well. They are Sega Nomad Genesis and Sega Game Gear consoles. See pictures of them attached.
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I bought an intellivision 1 on ebay about two years ago and when i tested it it didn't work. i attempted to repair it and couldn't do it. I even removed the shielding and checked the board. I have no clue what im really doing do I decided to send some pictures. I cleaned it and couldn't figure out what was wrong. it has black screen with interference when i tried booting it up. I originally got nothing and thought the rf switchbox was broken but the cable was so i used and yellow double ended composite wire and tested it then i got the black screen. I know the box and cable works because i tested it on my model 1 genesis. anyway, let me know if you guys see the problem. Thanks!
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My NTSC TI 99/4A's internal power supply isn't working. Is there anywhere in Europe that I can get it fixed? Does anyone know If anyone sells these internal PSUs?
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Hello all, I'm a long time Atari fan. My parents bought an ATARI ST in the late 80s so I was thrilled when I saw the Atari Lynx and later Lynx 2- but of course I didn't get one... However, I always so much wanted a Lynx 2- so I was very much excited when I won an auction for a working unit a few days ago with a few games. I paid too much yes, but I really wanted one- so I was devastated when I switched it on to see this: Dots on Display So my question is... if it's fixable? They don't seem to be dead pixels as it depends on the viewing angle: Different viewing angle Also these marks can be seen when the unit is switched off: On switched off unit (opened it) I somehow expect the answer to be no , so is there any way to get an original screen? A mod with a Mcwill or Bennvenn is not an option to me, currently. I'm really sad about this issue as a lynx was my childhood dream. Yes, I talked to the seller and after some hassle I agreed for a small discount. Just not in the mood for arguing in these times. Thx for reading, Dan
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Hello all, long time reader, first time poster on the forums. I recently picked up a junk Coleco Telstar Combat system made in ‘77 for a couple dollars. It was pretty roached, but it’s a rather obscure system so I couldn’t pass it up. However, after getting it all cleaned up, I plugged it to my TV to test it out, but all I got was static and no signal. I tried many times turning the system off and on but mostly no signal would appear at all. Sometime a staticky signal would fade in and out, but it was very inconsistent. Once, I even got a vague image of the actually game screen to appear for a few seconds. I’m fairly confident that the video cable coming from the system itself is not the issue and I have it hooked up to a known working RF switch that works well with my Atari 2600. So, I opened the system back up, removed the RF shield, and began to adjust the RF inductors (I’m using a modern tv). ( I attached pics for reference) There appears to be 2 RF inductor adjustments under the shield, and a screw adjustment at the top right corner of the board. I started adjusting the orange (bottom) inductor but that only caused the video to go from no signal, to staticky image, back to no signal. So I tried to adjust the white (top) RF inductor, but it wouldn’t budge. Upon further inspection, I saw the slot inside this inductor had several cracks. I desoldered the inductor from the board to examine it further, but couldn’t get it to budge. After resoldering it back on, I still have the same issue, however, the static signal seems to become more and more scarce, leaving me with no signal as I fiddle more and more with the inductors. I also tried adjusting the screw adjuster to no avail, but I’m not really sure which RF adjusters I should/need to adjust. Would the cracking in the inductor be enough to inhibit the video signal completely? Is there anything else that could be causing this issue besides the inductors? I have a rather limited knowledge on electronics as I have only been attempting retro repairs for about a year and a half, so any new nuggets of knowledge are greatly appreciated! This is a really neat and rare system that I would like to have working in my collection. Feel free to ask questions if something isn’t clear. Thanks in advance! (Note: I have the same problem regardless if I’m using batteries or the power supply).
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Over the past few months I've been given many Atari hardware items and software. These belonged to a friend of mine who was an avid member of the local Atari user group. He died about two years ago, and his son passed away about a year ago. I have been receiving various bits of documentation, paperwork, hardware and software from their family members in the time since they passed away. I've been asking what has and has not been archived and I've been doing my best to make sure that it has been archived (thanks to Allan Bushman for scanning and taking care of this 8-bit material-- he's such a great archivist!). Until this point, I've not given too much thought about using some of the hardware like the 1050/810 disk drives. These were all stored in an outdoor barn/shed. All of the hardware (the computers included) is very dusty and I'd be shocked to learn that any of disk drives work at all. A couple of months ago a friend of mine suggested that he would like to see an Atari load-up some floppy disks to play some games. We can do that already, as I have a disk drive emulator for the Atari and various AtariMax flash carts, but he wants to see some real 5 1/4" floppies booting to some game or other. In addition, included in the last batch of Atari items that I was given, was quite a bit of the Atari 8-bit public domain PD library on 5 1/4" floppy. It might be neat to load some of that stuff up on real hardware. My question is: is there a FAQ or repair/restoration manuals and/or videos on how to go through and restore Atari 810/1050 disk drives. I guess, at the minimum, I'd need to learn to clean/lubricate gears/motors/heads. Adam P.S. I also have several Atari 410 program recorders, but I'm not sure that restoring those would even be worth the effort. Or is there a reason to have these around?
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First of all, Hello everyone, i'm new in this forum. Recently I've bought a Mc will mod for Game Gear and I have a problem: When I press 1 and 2 buttons at the same time, the screen change its scale. Normally this only happens when you press 1, 2 and start button too at the same time. Does anyone know if it's possible to fix it?, becouse is a bit annoying because some games needs to press 1 and 2 bottons at the same time. Thank you in advance.
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I added an article to BallyAlley.com called A Power Transformer Substitution for the Bally/Astrocade Computer System by Michael Matte (MCM Design). Michael wrote this article in April of 2018. If your original Bally power supply fails, and you have experience in electronics, then these detailed instructions with schematics and picture explain how to build a substitute power transformer. You can read the article in various formats, here: http://www.ballyalley.com/faqs/faqs.html#AstrocadePowerTransformerSubstitution Here is an example of the finished power supply (more pictures are included in the article): Thanks to Michael for writing this article. Enjoy! Adam
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Over the the past year, we've all read multiple threads on common hardware issues, faults and breakdowns. In starting this thread it's hoped that we can all have a "clearing house" of sorts for common solutions. This way if someone develops issues in the future, they'll know where to come to quickly pinpoint and diagnose the issue and possibly get an instant solution. For easy search, the title should list the PROBLEM, and the DEVICE involved. If possible please include photos, because as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words and may help someone confirm and diagnose their issue. -
Hi guys, I got myself an Atari 130 XE recently (after a 20 year gap) and I finally found the time to open it to see the conditions inside. I found a couple of hacky looking wires in there and I haven't a clue what do these fix / improve. Can someone here recognize it as a typical mod / fix? Thanks for any comments!
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Hey There, new to the forums here, I'm not sure if this is the right place to post but I need some help with my CX2600A Rev 8. I'm not sure if there is a nickname for this model.. its between the light sixer and the vader 2600s. I noticed last week that my 2600 video signal was almost unplayable because of how much snow there was in the screen. I have a little 1999 Sanyo CRT tv that I use for all my RF signal consoles (intellivision/ Commodore/2600) via a Female Rf to Coaxial adapter. It was a trifecta of video problems, general uniform fuzzy/snowy screen, over top that were horizontal rolling bars going bottom to top and over top that were diagonal bars going lower right corner to upper left. It had never been that fuzzy before, I noticed when I moved the RF cable going into the console the fuzziness would change. After taking apart the console and unplugging the video cable, I tried using a modern video cable (the same one I use on my Intellivision with crystal clarity) but the video problems persisted. After looking on these forums for hours I found possible solutions to the issue, but none of them worked - The green "chicklet" capacitor above the power modulator needs to be replaced ---> The CX2600A doesnt have a green chicklet capacitor above the power modulator -Stop using the ancient Rf Box that came with the console and use a Rf-Coaxial adapter ---> I already am -Stop the TV from auto-scanning to lock onto the 2600's signal better to reduce the snow ---> I tried this, the signal was the same -Try jiggling the cart, the game/ game port may need cleaning ---> Nothing happened -Try switching between Channel 2 and Channel 3, the Switch may be causing interference --> Channel 2 was a little better then Channel 3 (I'll come back to this later) -Make sure you are using the Power Adapter made for the Atari, to much/little power could cause video issues --> I'm using the original power adapter plugged into a power strip, plugging into the wall. -Install a component mod --> I have two separate tvs for different types of games. I have a flat screen for Component/HDMI and the Sanyo CRT for RF games. Call it personal preference but I want to keep the atari as a RF signal All that troubleshooting led me to believe it was either the female RF connector on the board itself or the RF modulator. Seeing as it would be easier for me in the long run, I modded the case and added a external RF jack on the outside of the case, wiring it with 18Gauge wire to the board after desoldering the old 37 year old connector. This helped A LITTLE BIT. It eliminated the diagonal rolling bars but the horizontal bars and snow were still present. After painstakingly desoldering the RF modulator shielding and the 5 pins connecting it to the board I pried the modulator off and found a spider nest inside the RF modulator shielding. After cleaning that up, resoldering everything back into place, I once again hooked up the system and nothing. It was the same terrible signal. In a last ditch effort attempt to fix it I desoldered, then resoldered the channel switch back on. This didn't fix channel 3. HOWEVER, channel 2 looks crisper then I've ever seen it. It isn't crystal clear like my Intellivision, the picture is fuzzy with a little bit of snow, and when testing with Air Sea Battle, the screen seems to warp inwards from the sides when the colors change. Is there any way I can get clearer picture from my system om Channel 3? I know how to solder and replace components, but I don't have a clue when it comes to the technical parts of electronics.
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Hey all... I have three bad roller controller buttons. I opened up the case and cleaned the crap out of them with deoxit to no effect (that stuff saved my regular controller buttons for sure). Anybody have experience in this area?
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Hello guys n' gals.... I have a DMG Gameboy with a screwed up LCD. The right part is darker than the left and it has a horizontal line.... (I think I bent the H/V ribbon cables too much...) Could it be replaced??? The LCD is custom, but I have been able to find simmiliar screen sizes and resolutions on the 'Bay... I'd try to get a Gameboy Pocket LCD if I could find them. Probably a Color/Advance LCD wont fit? Any options? Thanks....... Al.
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I completely took apart one of my SACs, cleaned every contact and connector. I still cannot get any keypad buttons to function. I have two controllers, and not one working keypad button between them. I know the commonality of broken SACs has been brought up before. But has anyone actually successfully repaired the keypad on their Super Action Controller? If so, could you share what you did to fix it? Thanks,
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I recently bought 3 Ataris (1 fat, 2 newer small ones) for $200, and there is a ton of static. Long story short, I've eliminated every possible thing I could between the solder points for the RF out on the Atari circuit board and the input on my TV, but it still yields static. I've used the RF tuner on the board, reseated everything that can be reseated, and used rubbing alcohol on most external contacts, yet I still get static. The Atari comes with the original power supply, and works flawlessly, just the static. I've tried it on 3 different TVs of 3 different types. (CRT, Projector, and LCD) with the same result on each. There doesn't appear to be any physical damage in any soldering or the board in general, other than some kind of minor liquid stains on the side. Any suggestions? Thanks, -Will
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Hi all, I have a new video up showing my adventure as I try to get an Apple ImageWriter II printing with a Macintosh LC II Hope you enjoy! Steve https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LQiUcjZayM -
Hey guys I'm going to try and make a long story short. back in Jaunary I got a broken Vectrex. I was told it had alignment issues. I trouble shooted and even replaced a few IC chips and got no results. Well today I repaired my Sega Mega Drive which got me motivated. So, here I am. The main problem is that the vectors displayed on my monitor don't connect and form what they should be. I shot a video to show exactly what I mean. Any help is appreciated. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQU7EVS3rho&list=UU3dpEsu_UykWMc9nPHdHwIg
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Hi guys! Im in the uk and I have a problem with my intellivision that I hope you can help me out with. A few weeks back I got the console from eBay. It was working fine apart from a small colour issue, the greens were red etc. But after 20 or so minutes the games would correct the colour. It suddenly went to a blank screen when i turned the console on or pressed reset. After taking it apart and giving it a dust down as well as cleaning the port with a credit card and a lint free cloth the title screen comes on, all in the right colours. Sometimes I have to hold the reset button and release it at the same time as switching it on to get the title screen. But as soon as I press any key or the d pad on either controller the screen goes blank. On mazeatron I get the title screen with the intro music, but, again, as soon as I press anything it goes blank. On demon I get the title screen and the graphics moving about, but does absolutely nothing when I press any key, it doesn't go blank, just stays on the title screen. I also tried leaving it on for a while on just the title screen to see if it would turn itself off as it did before, but it just stayed on the title screen for almost 20 minutes before i turned it off. I noted that underneath was quite warm. When i opened it up i couldnt see any damage, but then, i dont really know what im looking for. I have never attempted to fix anything like this before, i dont even know how to solder and i have no computer or electronic skills at all, i have absolutely no idea what im doing. Please help! Many thanks for reading!!
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