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Hi all. Happy new year! For the past ten years or so, I have been fixing Atari consoles and often I install AV mods as part of the process. At the beginning I was using a simple amplifier as many projects on the internet do, but I was not very happy with the video quality, so I quickly moved to the digital buffer approach. As I convert a far number of consoles every year, from time to time I will run out of PCBs and, instead of just re-ordering the same design, I try to improve it and make it easier to install, better video and audio quality, etc... Around 2018 I joined my AV design with my game pause mod: Here are some examples of my previous mods: The last PCB on the right is the one I used until mid last year. There were a few things I liked about it: It had AV and pause integrated, so it was easier to install than two separate mods There was no need to modify the console case for the AV cable The pause was controlled by the COLOR switch, so no extra switch installation The pause could be completely deactivated and the COLOR button could be used to switch the game to BW It could be mounted directly on top of the TIA and the labels on the pins made it easier to know which pins to connect for NTSC and PAL consoles. The connections were made straight down which avoided making wrong connections As it was time to order PCBs again, I started working on a new design to include some features I collected on my wish list: An easier way to configure the board for NTSC or PAL. On the last board I made, a resistor network for this, which meant I needed to decide if I wanted it to be used for NTSC or PAL as I built the mod and it was not possible to change it afterwards Gemini support. As the Gemini has a different TIA, I had to reroute the connections manually, which made the installation much more complicated and error prone An LED indicator for the pause state Better connections for the AV cable A better solution for the audio and video chaos while the game is paused. The old board had addressed a lot of the problem, but that was a lot of room for improvement So I came up with the design above which has a single jumper to configure PAL, NTSC and Genesis and the legends next to the pins show which TIA pins should be connected for each console type. This makes it easier to install the mod and also change the console type after the board was build. The other features are also included: 2600Mod_en.mov This is how it looks like installed in a Gemini: So far I have converted a couple of dozens of PAL, NTSC and Gemini consoles with this new mod and I am quite happy with the result. This time I ordered a larger number of PCBs though, so if anyone would like get one of these mods, I will soon put them on eBay for 29€, or you can pm me here. Cheers.
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It is clear AtariAge members are much too discriminating to spend like the rest of the eBay world, so I re-examined the situation. If I were to list this item on eBay, the return on a $350 selling price would be approximately $305. Rather than bother with eBay then, I'm simply lowering my asking price to $305 here, noted below as well, with the hope of garnering more interest. Yesterday (December 5th) I was browsing sold items on eBay and happened upon this auction... https://www.ebay.com/itm/195470579615?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=d09x7VdARf2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=6uFVB1ODTJy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL ...which ended on November 20th, and I thought, "Wow, $355 for a CIB Gemini. Oh wait, I HAVE ONE OF THOSE!" And here it is: So, what's different about MY Gemini from the one that sold for $355? On the PLUS side... 1) My box is in better shape (meh). 2) The foam says "GEMINI" and not just "COLECO" (yawn). 3) I am the original owner, purchased in October of 1986 (here is the receipt)... 4) Mine is proven to work, with both joystick and paddle function of the Dual Command controllers... 5) And best of all (please note in the photo above), MINE comes with the Y-CABLE needed to play two-player paddle games (YAY!) On the MINUS side... 1) The eBay seller's Gemini has apparently never been used (mine has been played a handful of times, decades ago, and has been in its box ever since). 2) The eBay seller's Gemini included the original pack-in game, Donkey Kong (mine includes a gnarly, Actiplaque'd yet fully-functional copy of Kaboom... SO THE BUYER OF MY GEMINI CAN PLAY IT IN TWO-PLAYER MODE WITH THE SPIFFY Y-CABLE!). So I ask you, Dear Fellow Classic Gaming Enthusiasts, which of these two CIB Coleco Gemini Classic Consoles is the better value? If my Gemini appears to be worth $305 (or more, plus shipping), please send me a PM to express interest, with my thanks. If more than one party expresses interest, I may turn this into a bidding opportunity. If THAT happens, I will set a deadline to make offers and the highest offer will need pay only $5 above the second-highest offer (not unlike eBay), via PayPal if you please. My policy will be to keep ALL bidders aware of ALL offers (anonymously) as they come in, via PM. That has worked quite fairly on this Forum in the past, and I GUARANTEE the buyer complete satisfaction with the purchase or there will be a full refund including return shipping. Please check my reputation here... ...if there are any doubts. Thanks in advance for any and all considerations.
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It was one of the most audacious moves in video game history - when Coleco commandeered Atari's massive game library, giving the already attractive console an even stronger position in the marketplace, challenging the very concept of "console exclusive games". The common belief is that in the ensuing legal battle, Coleco won in court, due to the Atari VCS being built from standard "off the shelf" parts, and thus there was nothing to infringe upon. However, it's a misconception that isn't true. In this video, I tried to correct the record regarding the myth, and to tell the story of Coleco's multiple variations on Atari hardware.
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Hi, I've recently come across two Coleco Gemini consoles. I got one working no problem, but the second won't display any Picture. Powers on as my TV goes to a solid grey screen. Known good power supply. Known good game Known good AV Chord. Tested all the above with a working Gemini and it works very best, so the problem is isolated to the guts of this console. I checked the power input and reinforced the solder on it. I checked the voltage regulator and it seems ok. I've also re-flowed the solder to the cartridge slot and all the chips. I think the RF Modulator is bad but I'm not sure how to test it with my multimeter? I removed the shielding from it to get a good look inside and re-flowed all the joint to all the components but nothing has changed. Also, is there a way to confirm if a chip is bad with a multi-meter? I searched on here to find any threads with a similar issue and there's not much for this console. What I've dug out was some people mentioned that its made with off the shelf cheap parts and the solder is notorious for failing. So those are the issues I tackled first but still the same grey output on the screen. When I wiggle the channel select it does have a effect on the screen though. At this point my guess is bad chip(s) or bad RF Modulator. I guess it would make a good candidate for a Composite mod, but I've never done it before and not even sure if the kits for a 2600 would work on this thing. I've searched for anywhere that would sell parts for this thing (especially the chips) but that too seems pretty hard to come by. I can provide photos if anyone wants to take a stab at it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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I had some Coleco Gemini Controllers included when I bought some games off a kijiji ad and when I bought a system. My problem: I opened them and cleaned them and there was black gunk all over the connectors. I first ran it through stella with the 2600 daptor 2 and it was funny. The dial moved the ship in defender and the stick when I pushed up would shoot but when I had the case off it would work no problem. I tried ms pac man on a 2600 and it worked the button worked and the joystick worked (with the case on). When I tried it on breakout the dial worked but I had to press up on the joystick to shoot the ball (This was also on a 2600). Now what I think it is I used too much rubbing alcohol and took something out of the board but I just want to fix and remedy it. There was possibly some black gunk that was supposed to be there possibly? HELP!
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You be the judge https://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Columbia-Home-Arcade-Vintage-Console-Atari-2600/123351849046?hash=item1cb857d856:g:2IUAAOSwd~Zbj1Bf
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Basically, the Coleco Gemini, which was an Atari 2600 clone, had this cool controller that had a joystick on the top part and a paddle on the bottom. Will this work on a normal Atari 2600 system? I kind of like the dual controller style.
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I am looking at a Coleco Gemini system, just the system, no controllers (although I have some), no plugs or cords, seller doesn't know if it works. He wants $39 for it. Should I buy it, is it a good price for one? I dunno on this.
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From the album: 2600
Joystick / Paddle Controller. -
Looking for some new Colecovision controllers, the keypad on one of mine is wonky and the joystick on the other only works when it wants to. Also want a Gemini controller with the connector and a Super Action Controller. Finally I'm looking for the following homebrews if anyone has em...... Mario Bros Elevator Action Lock N' Chase Heli Fire Side Trak Don't have anything to trade so just looking to purchase, hope to hear from somebody......
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I am having an issue with my coleco gemini's RF signal and I need some help trying to fix it. To see the issue check out this youtube video: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8lA3OfZ3JA) Any responses would be appreciated Thanks.
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eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121377500895 I'm looking for a nice Gemini system but this looks too good to be true. Is that shine caused by a car dash cleaner of some sort?
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I was playing Jr Pac Man with the Coleco Gemini Atari 2600 clone joystick / paddle and decided to try a paddle game, Circus Atari. The short throw joystick is great for quick turns and reverses. The paddle, however, was jitter city. The second controller did not jitter so I decided to clean or replace the paddle part. Remove the four corner screws and the Center screw. Five screws. They sure didn't go cheap here as there is a sixth screw, but that is for the joystick. Leave that one in. No clips, it just opens. OMG, there is no potentiometer! Well, not completely true - it is like a big exposed potentiometer. It is just a circuit board with a carbon strip that will change the resistance value. I have seen them smaller, used for volume knobs on radios. If used a lot they wear down and cause noise when moving. Is Coleco cheap, or brilliant? I am still not sure, but this makes cleaning a breeze, and replacement impossible. So, out comes my ancient "Realistic® Tape Recorder Head Lubricant" and a bit of paper towel. A quick wipe, put it back together... And it is rock steady! A fixed paddle controller. Tip: when using with Harmony cartridge, holding down the fire button changes the way the stick / paddle is read by the menu software.
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Looking for CIB, VG, NM or M. PM with asking price, including shipping to CA. 7800: Alien Brigade Mean 18 Planet Smashers Tank Command Title Match Pro Wrestling Water Ski 2600: Coleco Gemini CIB Jaguar: Braindead 13 in Long Box Lynx: Lynx I CIB 5200: CIB Atari published commons
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I've got 4 Y (or Wye) adapters. They have the standard 9 pin arrangement, and have the 2 branches are all pins and one end is all holes. If I remember right form owning Colecovision in my youth, there were Colecovision adapters which let you plug in an Atari 2600 controller for the joystick and one button and a Colecovision joystick for the keypad. This let you use any 2600 bat stick (which was better than the short, flat 'shroom top of a standard Coleco stick) with any one button games for Colecovision. (The only reason I never got one was because I have a solution which worked for every game I had and still have EXCEPT QBert's Qubes and The Activision Decathlon, that is the Super Action Controller.) Over the years, I went thrift shopping and found on separate occasions, a Gemini, a Gemini Instruction Book, and 4 different Y adapters of 9 pin arrangements. I read through the Gemini Instruction manual, and found out about the Wye Adapter (this was before I was looking for Y adapters) and that got me thinking, how do I tell the difference in the wild between the 2? Some one told me of pin testing, but I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do it. I've got a couple of theories,but I want to make sure none of them ruin my controllers systems or adapters, because the ow of best-electronics-ca.com the repairers of Atari equipment, says be care not to do anything that will short out my equipment due to the 5 Volt connection. If I can plug 2 joysticks in in either a 2600 or Colecoviison (a little help on which is safer?) and if both joysticks and buttons activate the character, then it's the first type. I can't think of a definitive test for the other except if only 1 joystick moves the character in the above test, then it's. Or maybe it's a paddle game fire test, like Steeplechase or Party Mix, something where you can test 2 independent fire buttons on 1A and 1B, As well as 2A and 2B The things I don't have for my gemini are joysticks, RF switchbox, and power cord. First I know that ANY controller made for the 2600 will work on a Gemini, so that won't be a hard test. Also I know standard pre-NES RF switchbox or an RF to RCA adapter on that useless analog RF plug on a VCR and a standard single RCA cable would do it for any RF system with a Single RCA hole out. But about power, I don't know if a 2600 JR power adapter would work with it, or if I have to get a "regular" 2600 cord, or even a special Gemini Cord. Finally will using Track&Field controller on the Colecovision for The Activision Decathlon ruin your system? I've had temporary problems with it, but got cured when I remove it. Will it work with Carnival? (I assume left button equals left press, and right button equals right press, and there's no up and down and only 1 fire button in Carnival.) Although not technically Y adapters because there's only 2 branches, not 3, does anyone know where I can get a lefty adapter for either the 2600 stick, or the 7800 pad (such an adapter would invert up and down as well as left and right. There might have to be a button swapping adapter for 7800 games where the concept of left and right are important than main and secondary) or an Atari-joystick-to-Astrocade system adapter, or an Astrocade-joystick-to-Atari-system adapter in either Joystick (easy) or Paddle (much harder engineering-wise) mode?,
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